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Messages - Trigger
1
« on: April 04, 2024, 10:15:42 PM »
I've only ordered from Webike in Japan. I have yet to be clobbered for tax/import charges. Service has been excellent. Some parts, however, are cheaper in the UK....
Yeah, I've spent my lunch hour putting together a spread sheet comparing prices, most are cheaper on yamira but a few are cheaper or negligible on DSS.
Some stuff is half the price from yamira.
It will not be half the price once it gets here. Add on UPS postal costs per Kg, add VAT, add import duties and administration charges and it all adds up
2
« on: April 04, 2024, 10:10:29 PM »
If so welcome back! ![Grin ;D](http://www.sohc.co.uk/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
(Attachment Link)
I have already answered this question you asked me via WhatApp a couple of weeks ago or have you forgot already Ash
3
« on: March 07, 2024, 12:00:51 AM »
Stunning build Roy. Looks like the same colour as my old K6. Did the bike not come with a original K5, K6 fuel tank ?
Thanks for that Trig. That's the tank it came with. Didn't notice until it was painted that it was an earlier item with the tap on the wrong side. K0/K1 maybe?
Edit. Just checked photos of all models and you are of course correct Trig that only K5/K6 had the tap on the left. First time I have checked that as it was already painted so it was going on whatever. It's not 100% correct anyway, although the Boyer ignition dates back to when the bike was new so probably counts as classic (digital classic).
The fuel tap was on the right for the K0, K1, K2 up to 1973 in UK. The tap was moved to the right for the K3, K4 and still using tap 16950 and then went on to the bolt on tap K5, K6. It must be a pain in the butt Roy as, your idle adjustment must be sitting right on the back of the fuel tap. When they moved the tap from right to left, they also moved the idle adjustment to the opposite side on the carbs.
4
« on: March 06, 2024, 06:52:11 PM »
Stunning build Roy. Looks like the same colour as my old K6. Did the bike not come with a original K5, K6 fuel tank ?
5
« on: March 06, 2024, 12:18:14 PM »
I find it amazing at a lot of members think poor Ken. When i first read this about oddjob, I thought poor Steve D, who must of had a shite weekend + trying to sort all this crap out and is most likely out of pocket. I totally understand why Steve banned him with all the crap he has put up with over the years keep deleting Ken's abusive posts and it has all come to a head
6
« on: October 12, 2023, 10:23:23 PM »
I had lots of CB750 k clear bowls that i sold off years ago. They do go brittle after some time
7
« on: October 12, 2023, 10:21:05 PM »
Just buy the correct length heli-coils
8
« on: October 12, 2023, 11:14:06 AM »
The 750 sohc has many different heads. You must get the correct one ![Wink ;)](http://www.sohc.co.uk/Smileys/default/wink.gif) Everything needs to be measured up, valve guides, valves, seats inspected, re-seal the tower studs and you change the valve seals as standard. If you need a good rocker cover contact Julie as she has many in stock and will be cheaper
9
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:37:52 AM »
On a condenser Ash, is it earthed out on the mounting point or can it be tested on the bike with out being screwed to the points plate ?
10
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:34:44 AM »
I have used OKE brake DOT 5 on all my bikes for a few years now and it is great ![Wink ;)](http://www.sohc.co.uk/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
Got confused when I looked up DOT5 and some products came up with DOT5.1 ...evidently that stuff is more like DOT3 and 4 and not silicone.
The .1 makes a big difference mate. ![Wink ;)](http://www.sohc.co.uk/Smileys/default/wink.gif) Oke Dot 5 is good stuff.
11
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:26:43 AM »
Nope, all the lugs are the correct orientation just they don't line up
The orientation is the same on CB550 F1/F2/K3 and the panels are interchangeable
12
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:22:17 AM »
Easy to fix if you have the correct tools and the skills. Alloy weld the damage area and mill it back to standard . To skim this to top surface on a 750, you would have to remove all the valve guides and replace with new ones. It must be spot on as the tach drive needs to mess correctly with the drive teeth on the cam shaft
13
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:13:24 AM »
I have used OKE brake DOT 5 on all my bikes for a few years now and it is great
14
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:07:39 AM »
Hi everyone,
More updates on the bike,
My V5 arrived last week only a few days after the inspection which was a nice surprise. So it’s now insured and ready for the road.
I took the bike out on Saturday for its first ride out, got a few miles down the road and started getting issues with misfiring and bogging down, which got worse the further I went.
I few things I have found is the charging system was a bit weak, but I’m getting good power from the stator, I’ve replaced the rectifier for a modern one which improved it slightly, but the thing that made the most difference was permanently wiring in the ‘night time coil, by connecting the wires in the headlight bucket, yellow wire into the white with yellow stripe. Thanks to Ash for that suggestion. I now get a steady 13V at idle which is good.
But the bike was still running rough and misfiring on one cylinder (left side) so tonight I removed the point cover and ran the bike and the left side point contact is sparking continuously while the righ side had no sparking at all, so I think it’s time for a new condenser. Fingers crossed that sorts out the last of the running problems,
I checked the point the other day for sparking and could see nothing, got in the shed tonight where it’s darker and it was obvious straight away.
Had the same problem with my 750K6 at the weekend Ben. Misfiring and bogging down and it was a condenser. It is the first time i have had a condenser go down on me so, i was stumped what the problem was at first. The K6 is 46000 miles plus and it still has the same old points and condensers from when it left the factory. The bike would run and rev up to on the bench but, out on the road under load it would bog straight away.
15
« on: October 01, 2023, 10:41:28 AM »
On a new tube the first nut is tight and the second nut is just threaded on. This indicates that one nut on the inside and one on the outside. Also on some new tubes the first nut has a blob of thread lock on the thread ![Wink ;)](http://www.sohc.co.uk/Smileys/default/wink.gif) [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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