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Messages - bikerburke
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« on: April 28, 2009, 09:56:19 PM »
Spongy brakes sorted,after using two bottles of fluid to bleed the brakes and still no joy,i went thru every manual and parts filches i could get and found no reference to the plastic washers that came with the new brake shoes and were fitted between the caliper piston and brake pad.today i removed these and instantly had a solid feel at the brake lever,the only reason i can think of removing them helped it allowed more fluid into the caliper body because the pads with washers had the pisons right back into the caliper therefore no room for fluid.any way its a result ,anybodies thoughts on this? bikerburke
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« on: April 21, 2009, 11:14:23 PM »
hi guys Ive updated my front brakes to twin disc using new pistons/seals, goodridge braided brake lines ,new banjo bolts and washers all calipers have been stripped and cleaned and I'm using a VF750L RC36 master cylinder,the problem i have is spongy brakes Ive gone thru the forums and done all methods i can to solve the problem.my query is can you get air drawn into the system from the master cylinder seals with out there being a fluid leak? thanks bikerburke PS i have ordered a service kit for the master in case it is this
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« on: April 11, 2009, 07:09:06 PM »
It seems your right about the quality of non Honda parts ,Ive stripped the carbs again and replaced the float needle holders with cleaned up original parts today result no drips only the one using the spanners  .thanks BRIANJ.What about the air screw is it in or out for richer mixture? as for the clutch i don't no how long the engine was laid up before i had it so i might strip it down and check for the points you mentioned.thanks bikerburke
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« on: April 11, 2009, 12:21:49 AM »
Hi ,Ive finaly got to the stage where im getting the CB5OO ready its MOT (photo attached) however im having probs with the carbs i have replaced most parts with a KEYSTER carb set from the USA which had a 26 needle ,100 main jet,40 slow jet , air screw and spring ,float needle and holder,and and new gaskets also in the kit are some steel ferrels and washers which im not sure where they go.any way i rebuilt the carbs with the new parts set the floats to 22mm and pre sync the carbs with the drill bit method .ive yet to balance the carbs .im having trouble with the carbs over flowing not always the same ones ive stripped and checked them 6 times at least only once have they not leaked i the checked the amount of petrol in each one and had approx 55ml in each float bowel,next question the keyster slow jets are not the same as the ones in the carb(photo attached)so i kept the old ones in.Next query the air screws are mounted on the side of the carb set at one turn out so is it screw in or out to enrich the mixture.Finaly clutch ,when i select any gear from cold it goes in sweet yet when the engine warms up the gears wont go in it feels as if the clutch is not fully disengaging (clutch drag ?).so any help would be much apprciated.thanks mick and happy easter all
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« on: April 05, 2009, 10:36:07 PM »
hi,i had already checked for play prior to coating with the swinging arm in the frame and there was play moving it side to side,even when the swing arm was out i could feel the play if i was you id replace them any way.the bushes had not arrived prior to coating so i had to replace them after, to replace the bushes i placed one end of the swinging arm on a block of wood i then put a bush into position on the other end ,i used a piece of alloy plate on the bush and drove it in flush with the swinging arm,to drive it in fully to swing arm i used a socket the same width as the bush.turn the arm over and repeat. i took my time and made sure the bush was square going in the only thing i had to do was clean up the leading edge on the bush,and no damage to the coating.Also i had my frame,swing arm and fairing mount done local for
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« on: April 02, 2009, 11:51:01 PM »
hello i had a similiar problem when i was rebuilding my 500/4 turned out to be the master cylinder,you may see fluid by the brake lever pivot if so you probaly need a rebuild kit and a pair of long nose internal circlip pliers.cheers bikerburke
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« on: April 02, 2009, 11:31:17 PM »
Thanks Brianj did as you said used a hacksaw came out no probs ,swine to get new ones back in tho,used new felt seal and collar and outer cap.the spindle was quite tight going back in i had to ease the leading edge of the bush with some fine wet and dry.thanks mick
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« on: April 01, 2009, 12:10:58 AM »
if my bike had been registered at the start of 1973 perhaps it would have been worth while asking Mr Honda.So i think i will use the
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« on: April 01, 2009, 12:01:30 AM »
hi ,im sending off my frame and swinging arm for powder coating but before i do i want to replace the swinging arm bushes,ive already tried drifting one out its moved about 3mm after an hour ,any tips to get them out easy and back in after.Thanks mick
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« on: March 28, 2009, 04:27:28 PM »
sorry about shouting  thanks all for info , tho i had a look on the internet and found the usa SOHC/4 Owners Club Web Site on there they gave a list of the honda cb500 frame/engine numbers and any with numbers CB500-2100001 on were made in in 1973.mine are frame CB500-220249** engine CB500e-220249** so unless the uk model is different it looks as if mine is a late 1973 manufactured year. thanks again Mick
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« on: March 28, 2009, 12:51:47 AM »
HI ALL .AS MY POST SAYS IM LOOKING TO CHECK THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE OF MY CB500/4 .THE LOG HAS IT BEING REGISTERED ON THE 3/7/1973 IM SURE IVE SEEN IN ONE OF THE POSTS THAT ONE OF YOU GUYS CAN CHECK THE YEAR OF MAUFACTURE IF I CAN SUPPLY THE FRAME AND ENGINE NUMBERS AND YOU CAN CHECK IF IT WAS MADE BEFORE JANUARY 1973 AND SUPPLY THAT IN SOME OF PROOF.OF COURSE THAT MEANS I COULD POSSIBLE GET FREE ROAD TAX? OR AT LEAST THE OLD BLACK AND WHITE NUMBER PLATE WHICH WOULD COOL ON THE BIKE.IM GOING TO BE OFF WORK FOR 3 WEEKS LEAVE AND IM HOPING TO GET THE CB ON THE ROAD BY THE END OF IT. THANKS IN ADVANCE MICK
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« on: March 25, 2009, 06:11:25 PM »
thanks for your help/info guys.new indicators on the way and a caliper unit and disc also on the way.re forks ive remeasured all dimensions again on the 750 forks (perhaps there not 750) and they match exactly to the ones i have on already as i said the only difference is in the stanchions and damper so it may be a case of fit and try.ive incuded a couple of pics of the 750? and my own forks.I have a a couple of other issues i could have advice on should i start a new topic for each one. PS steved cb500 i live near wrexham .north wales
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« on: March 24, 2009, 11:35:04 PM »
hi all,this is my first post since joining so i hope i get it right.as i said when i joined i am building a cafe racer based on a 500/4 1973 model.I have include a few shots of before and how far I've got so far.I did say i was trying to build it on a budget but that went out the window when I started spending at DS SPARES .good old EBAY supplied the tank ,fairing and a seat for
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« on: October 30, 2008, 05:44:23 AM »
Hi all im mick from wrexham n/wales ,ive just bought a cb500 k1/k2 for a project over the winter months.MY first honda was cx 500 back in 1988 (cam chain gremlins),then CB750f good bike but flighty front end and which i dumped on the road by kates cottage IOM tt 1982 followed by cx500 eurosport.i then was off bikes until 2006 when i got a suzuki bandit 600 which i got rid of this year.since then i have rebuilt a suzuki ts 125 and sold ,tha GB250 which i converted from a rust bucket to a tidy classic .first time ive made money on a bike  .ive been a biker for over 30 years (and got the scars and aches to prove it).So thats me i look forward to meeting you in the forums and picking your brains for help with the CB500 
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