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Topics - mattsz

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1
CB350/400 / Unconnected green wire near fuse block
« on: May 07, 2021, 05:13:30 PM »
I searched a bit and didn't find anything.  I'm sure it's been discussed... probably even by me at some point!  Here goes anyway...

What's with the unconnected green wire behind the left-side panel?  Extra connection for the turn signal relay?

USA '77 CB400, btw...

2
CB350/400 / '77 CB400F - it runs!
« on: August 31, 2020, 06:58:10 PM »
See subject heading...

First start - fired right up on the second button press, with a barely-there puff of smoke - not surprising, as there was oil in the cylinders.  All 4 cylinders heated up quickly and uniformly.  No obvious oil leaks, yet.  With a bit of juggling choke lever and idle screw, I quickly got it down to a steady 1200 rpm idle with the choke off.

The front end sounds very rattly - is this a loose timing chain?  I know it's hard to hear sometimes on a video, but I've posted a couple.  Would you guys check them out and give me some opinions?

The first one is the start video (because I had to!), just over 1 minute long.  It ran until I shut off the choke and it stalled:

https://youtu.be/PoMMEqoxnK0

The second video is a shorter (about 25 second) "running" video to highlight the noise. It's running without the choke at this point:

https://youtu.be/fzLM4dWA_lE

3
CB350/400 / Exhaust woes
« on: August 30, 2020, 04:15:26 PM »
So I was getting ready to reinstall my exhaust system - that's all I have left to do before finally trying to fire it up!

While cleaning up the collector end for the silencer, I discovered a hole just ahead of where the silencer clamp fits - here it is, lit up with a flashlight:

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I'm not sure if this is repairable, the rest of the collector seems to be in pretty good shape, not too rusty inside.

I happen to have bought a spare header set awhile back; I wasn't looking since I thought mine was ok, but someone offered it at a good price, so I grabbed it.  It's got less surface rust on the pipes than mine, but it's got some impact damage, especially pipe #1 and the bottom of the collector.  The end of the collector is in much better shape, a lot less rust at the joint.

Actually, I was thinking I could take my good pipe #1 and switch it out with the damaged one, but I'm hesitant to start dismantling things since, while it appears the pipe gaskets are still available, the clamping hardware doesn't seem to be, and I'd hate to find myself with no working headers at all!

Here's my original headers - less road damage, but surface rust near the tops.  And that rust hole at the bottom, of course!

4
CB350/400 / Throttle adjustment - I'm confused by the Honda manual...
« on: August 29, 2020, 10:27:45 PM »
I could use some help with this..

I reinstalled my carbs, and installed "new" (they appear to be non-genuine NOS) throttle cables.  It took me awhile to sort out just which cable was which, which to install first, and how to tweak all the adjustments to make them work, but I think I've got it.  The problem I'm having is highlighted by Honda manual page I attached.

At the top of my attachment, "adjusting overtravel stopper," the clearance between the throttle lever and the link pin, which has an offset cam-style adjustment, is 2.0 -2.1mm.  I found mine rather greater than that, so I adjusted it before I installed the cables.  Note the wording, "Return the throttle grip to the closed position."  I figure no cables at all would effectively be the closed position.

But a couple of paragraphs later, at the bottom of the same attachment, there seems to be conflicting information.  Here, it says "with the throttle grip in the fully closed position," the throttle lever should actually contact the pin - no clearance at all - which is different than the previous instruction.

I can  physically turn the grip from its at-rest position to "close it even more," in which case the throttle lever does rotate a bit until it contacts the pin... but when I release it, it returns to its rest position with that 2mm gap.  What's the correct adjustment?

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5
CB350/400 / carb float bowl drains
« on: August 28, 2020, 09:57:27 PM »
Hi guys -

I've mounted my carbs to the bike just to fill them with fuel to see if all the bowls are filling and to check for leaks - yes, and none... so far.

Noob question: is opening the drain screws supposed to drain the fuel through the overflow hoses, or should the fuel just run out at the drain screws?  I'm guessing the latter (which mine are doing) is correct.  Sure would be nice and easy if the fuel drained out the hoses, much easier to collect!

6
CB350/400 / Brake master cylinder rebuild kit
« on: August 09, 2020, 01:22:23 AM »
I have a brake master cylinder kit from 4 into 1:

https://4into1.com/reproduction-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild-kit-45530-377-305-cb360-cb400f-cb450-cb500t-cb550-cb750/)

I know not everyone has had success with these rebuilds, but what the heck...

Regarding lubricating the reassembling bits: the Honda manual says to use brake fluid.  The 4 into 1 kit includes a tiny tub of pinkish grease, but doesn't say what kind it is or exactly where/how to use it (I've got silicone grease for use in the caliper, as recommended in the manual).  I've seen a Youtube tutorial in which Marvel Mystery Oil is used.  I'm tempted to forego the grease and oil and just use the brake fluid as the manual recommends - anyone have better ideas?

7
CB350/400 / points cover gasket adhesive
« on: August 03, 2020, 02:29:38 PM »
My points cover gasket is no good.  I have a replacement, the same thin cork ring as original.  It definitely needs to be secured in place... any specific adhesives to use or avoid in this application?

8
CB350/400 / CB400F Drive chain adjustment
« on: August 01, 2020, 12:27:27 AM »
All my sources say to put the bike on the center stand (rear wheel off the ground) and adjust for a 3/4" range of vertical movement midway between the sprockets.  This seems tight compared to other chain-driven bikes I have or have had.

But wait... my owners manual says to move the chain up and down to observe the 3/4" slack.  The Honda shop manual says to check the chain tension by finger-depressing the chain midway between sprockets and measuring the sag.  Setting this push-only sag at 3/4" will yield very different tension than the up/down 3/4" setting.  And ever helpful, the Haynes manual simply says, "The chain is correctly adjusted when, with the machine on the centre stand, there is 20mm (3/4 inch)."  This doesn't even make sense.

What do you guys generally do?

9
CB350/400 / Center Stand
« on: July 30, 2020, 07:39:45 PM »
So I was able to remove my 400's center stand pretty easily.  I cleaned it up; now I'm ready to reinstall it...

Can anyone tell me how the mounting arrangement is intended to function?  Is the inner "pivot" meant to be stationary, and the upper tube in the center stand should rotate around it?

If so... is this meant to be a pinch arrangement (see photo)?  Should the bolts be tightened up enough to grip the pivot and keep it from rotating?  When I removed it, the pivot wiggled out without my having to loosen those two "pinch" bolts...

EDIT: again with the rotated thumbnail!  >:(  Click on it, the full image should be upright...

10
CB350/400 / Fuel line size?
« on: July 21, 2020, 08:28:05 PM »
Hey guys - I'm in a pissing contest with an ebay supplier about fuel line size.  I read on one of these SOHC forums that 5.5mm is the correct size fuel line for my '77 CB400F, so that's what I ordered.  It arrived, with a much larger OD than what's on my bike, which I am told is original.  So the clamps won't fit.  Of course, now I can't find the info on either forum...

In communicating with the seller, he's claiming to know the measurement of my bike's petcock outlet and that I should have ordered 4.5mm fuel line.  The ID of the old line and his new one look the same to me, but the old one is probably stretched out a bit...

Since most OEM parts sellers offer part numbers but no dimensions, and I've seen conflicting info on other parts sites... exactly what part of the petcock outlet tube do you measure, and how does fuel line size relate to that measurement?

11
CB350/400 / Loose drive sprocket
« on: July 20, 2020, 03:45:36 PM »
My searches reveal that sometimes, some SOHC bikes have a loose-fitting front sprocket.  My 400's was a bit loose, and the replacement I bought is just the same - a bit of sideways wobble and the tiniest bit of rotational play on the shaft, without the "sprocket fixing plate" installed.

Assuming that's ok... when installing the new one, any lubrication or other protections recommended?

12
CB350/400 / rear sprocket nut torque question...
« on: July 04, 2020, 12:19:28 PM »
I'm mounting a new sprocket on the wheel, and I'm curious about the fastener torque listings in the Honda 350F - 400F service manual...

The four "final driven sprocket" nuts are 10mm, 1.25mm thread pitch - as are the "engine hanger bolt" and "rear suspension."  In the 350 section (pg 75), torque values for all three of those are the same, 300-400 kg-cm or 21.7-29 ft-lb.  But in the supplemental 400 section (pg 105), there's a change: the engine hanger bolt and rear suspension values match the 350 values, but for the 400 the same size sprocket nuts show a higher value, 400-500 kg-cm or 29-36.2 ft-lb.

Does anyone know why this was changed?  I thought torque values were based on fastener specs, so matching fasteners would have matching torque values regardless of their usage - within reason, of course!

13
CB350/400 / Clutch pull still very hard...
« on: June 20, 2020, 10:56:47 PM »
I just installed my "new" clutch cable; I adjusted the cable per the Honda manual's instructions.  The clutch is still very hard to pull.  I certainly wouldn't want to ride it this way.

Does the "in/out" action of the clutch adjusting screw as I pull and release look normal?  Click on the image for "video"... sorry it's shaky...

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14
CB350/400 / Lubrication for a "Honda" clutch cable?
« on: June 20, 2020, 09:26:38 PM »
I'm reading that original Honda clutch cables shouldn't be lubricated.  I bought an "NOS" cable from an ebay seller over a year ago, after he carefully measured to make sure it fits my '77 CB400 USA model. I can't find the listing or any info from that purchase now.  If it's a true Honda cable, would it be labeled as such, either on the cable itself or in the packaging?

The cable says only, "MADE IN JAPAN."  The sealed plastic bag it came in has this label inside:

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"Honda" isn't actually written anywhere.  Any advice about lubricating this cable?

15
CB350/400 / Carb-to-head manifold "insulator" removal - SUCCESS!
« on: June 08, 2020, 11:56:09 AM »
Sorry if this is a lame question...

My carb manifold rubbers have hardened up dramatically - I've decided to remove them and either try some softening alchemy or buy new - but I can't loosen the screws.  I'm nervous about stripping out the heads, so I've been cautious to avoid using too much force on ill-fitting "phillips" screwdrivers, the best fitting option I've found so far is the Honda tool kit large cross-head bit and the cross bar that fits it for leverage (see photo), but that applies a slow steady torque, no way to "shock" the screw loose with that tool.

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Penetrating oil doesn't seem to penetrate.  I tried heat on one of them; no joy but I don't know how effective I was - I used a heat gun and the head really absorbed and dispersed the heat from it.  I could try that for a longer time.  I didn't use a propane torch, as I'm worried I'll damage the rubber.  Even if I had one, I don't think I could fit an impact driver in there and still swing a hammer (the engine is in the frame).

Any tricks to this, other than the usual generic suggestions?

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