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Messages - mattsz
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46
« on: September 04, 2020, 12:11:50 AM »
Just to follow up for fun... taking my cue from the form-a-funnel concept, I took this empty milk container (goddamn sideways thumbnails!  ): [ Guests cannot view attachments ] ... and cut some bits out of it to use for directing fuel into a container: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] The closer piece includes the handle as a small funnel - it fits right up under the drain screw, doesn't foul on the overflow hoses, and I can even easily hold it by the "handle" part. It doesn't work well on carb #3 due to all the hoses, cables, wires and clutch cover, so I cut a plain ol' "trough" for draining that bowl... they work a treat!
47
« on: September 03, 2020, 04:06:21 PM »
I’m jealous; you are where I want to be, without the cam chain problem of course. Well done.
I read somewhere that it is possible to “fix” a non-functioning adjuster by, essentially, doing just what you said.
You plug off the adjuster bolt and use a longer bolt with a locknut in the oil cap channel to push down on top of the adjuster rod until the noise goes away. The tighten up the locknut.
So I guess it wold be safe enough to try. It won’t work if the horseshoe is seized or if the chain is over-stretched, as Julie says, I suppose, but it might work if the horseshoe is just a bit sticky.
Oh and no, I didn’t try it. I fixed the adjuster bolt etc.
Certainly worth a try... to that end, I took a chance and ordered this "manual cam chain adjuster" bolt, made by our friend Kevin from TTR400. It basically does the job you describe above, and is much more controllable than just inserting some kind of rod down into the opening and just pushing by hand. As long as I can maneuver my tools in between the header pipes and frame openings... Worst that can happen, I guess, is that it won't work and I'm out $20. Or is it?  At least it will help me diagnose the issue...
48
« on: September 03, 2020, 01:28:57 PM »
Ouch! thanks for the reminder...
49
« on: September 01, 2020, 12:35:17 AM »
I admit my method takes practice but it does work, oil will not spray out of that plug you talk about but i will lay odd you will burn several bits of yourself on the exhaust
I will not take that bet...
50
« on: August 31, 2020, 09:11:57 PM »
gtmdriver - any updates on this? Is it working for you?
51
« on: August 31, 2020, 09:10:49 PM »
You will get condensation unless you ride the bike and get it hot enough to dry the steam out. My personal view, others may disagree, I wouldn't ride the bike with the chain rattling like that. Others may take a risk at a ride up the road but whether you choose to or not, that chain and adjuster need replacing.
Understood. By way of investigation, I'm tempted to try manually adjusting the tension by accessing the pushrod through the opening just above the proper adjustment bolts. If I do, can I try it with the engine running, or will removing that upper bolt spray oil out? It looks to me like that's open to the unpressurized crank case, so oil shouldn't be a concern...
52
« on: August 31, 2020, 08:21:03 PM »
When I ran it again just now, it still started and ran well, but I had some steady whitish smoke out the exhaust this time... and a surprising amount of water dripping out of the joint between the silencer and header collector - no wonder they rust out!
Should I not take it out on the road with that rattle?
53
« on: August 31, 2020, 08:17:19 PM »
Nigels method and your result proves there is a little movement but it does not prove if the chain is beyond spec, or if the horse shoe has minimal movement before it seizes.
True. I was hoping to hear from Nigel about whether he thought the amount of movement I discovered was ok or not. No matter now... my attempts at Bryanj's adjustment method didn't have a satisfactory result, and I just tried Honda's simple "idle the engine and loosen the adjustment bolt" technique which didn't change anything. Worth trying to adjust the tension by removing the upper bolt and pushing on the plunger by hand?
54
« on: August 31, 2020, 07:53:55 PM »
Thanks Julie! I did investigate the function of the tensioner based on the advice of another forum member. I did get some results, but I never got an answer as to whether my results were normal. If you wouldn't mind, would you take a few minutes and read this short post and the three which follow it to see what was suggested, and my results? http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,17461.msg205855.html#msg205855
55
« on: August 31, 2020, 07:27:58 PM »
Sounds like cam chain rattle. Well done for all your work so far, it's great to hear it running.
To be honest, I'm shocked it went so smoothly! But I'm not there yet! I tried to adjust the cam chain tension using Bryanj's method of "putting pressure on the [crank] so that the engine is just about to turn but not quite turning." I don't know if I did it right, or if the adjuster isn't working correctly. Any advice on how to proceed? Dare I follow Honda's recommendation and let it adjust itself while the engine is running?
56
« on: August 31, 2020, 06:58:10 PM »
See subject heading... First start - fired right up on the second button press, with a barely-there puff of smoke - not surprising, as there was oil in the cylinders. All 4 cylinders heated up quickly and uniformly. No obvious oil leaks, yet. With a bit of juggling choke lever and idle screw, I quickly got it down to a steady 1200 rpm idle with the choke off. The front end sounds very rattly - is this a loose timing chain? I know it's hard to hear sometimes on a video, but I've posted a couple. Would you guys check them out and give me some opinions? The first one is the start video (because I had to!), just over 1 minute long. It ran until I shut off the choke and it stalled: https://youtu.be/PoMMEqoxnK0 The second video is a shorter (about 25 second) "running" video to highlight the noise. It's running without the choke at this point: https://youtu.be/fzLM4dWA_lE
57
« on: August 31, 2020, 12:11:35 PM »
I would still do a 500 service as its been sttod and what you have in now will, hopefully, collect any unwanted stuff and put it in filter and/or sump
Gotcha! Anything I've missed I should be watching/listening for when I try to run it?
58
« on: August 31, 2020, 12:01:22 PM »
Thanks Bryan! I did my best to follow your bench-sync instructions - I presume I did it correctly, as the instructions seem very clear and it's not a difficult job. I haven't done major open-engine work, so I don't think there's a particular 500 mile service to do, but if it runs and seems ok, I'll definitely ride it and keep an eye on things! What I did do (relevant to engine running): - Removed and opened up the carb float chambers (I didn't separate the bodies from the rack), removed all the floats, jets, etc and cleaned everything as best I could without access to an ultrasonic cleaner. Reassembled and adjusted the choke mechanism so the plates moved together and the lever bumps the throttle linkage per manual specs. Reinstalled carbs using rubbers that aren't as soft as they could be, but I was still able to use them with effort. I tested the float valve function with the carbs on the bike: all four bowls filled with fuel, and over the next hour they didn't leak or overflow a drop. I don't know if the fuel levels are correct, but I did measure and adjust the float heights to spec (21mm per Honda manual) on the bench.
- Fresh oil and new oil filter.
- Checked and adjusted the static timing - I found the points a bit pitted, so I ordered new (aftermarket - I know!) points and condensers, which didn't even fit, so I ended up returning them and reusing what I had, after cleaning up the points contacts a bit.
- I examined the function of all the cam chain tensioner bits - they appear to be doing something, so I set it with the engine not running using the Bryanj method. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,1784.msg3029.html#msg3029
- Checked and adjusted the valve clearances.
- New plugs.
- Cleaned and de-rusted the fuel tank - it really was in pretty good shape, but there was a little minor surface rusting, so I decided to take care of it. I also installed a new petcock/filter.
- You may recall there was some, ahh... discussion... about some compression test results being quite low, but uniformly so. Gotta start somewhere, so I'm not worrying about that for the moment.
If it runs, I'll do the usual checks - listen for strange noises (not like I'd know which noises are strange!), check for uniformly heating exhaust pipes, look for smokey exhaust... any other "first-run-after-sitting-for-a-few-years" things to keep an eye out for?
59
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:38:22 AM »
I think I'm ready to try and start it up! Should I use my small auxiliary fuel tank, or better to install the proper tank and use a decent amount of fuel?
60
« on: August 30, 2020, 05:12:16 PM »
Thanks K2-K6!
Would you attempt to reuse that silencer gasket that's squished on there? Or clean it off and try to fit a new one, which also doesn't really fit...?
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