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Messages - mattsz
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571
« on: October 26, 2018, 04:28:27 PM »
One of the first things you should buy if you haven't already got some are these.
http://ruggedroads.co.uk/JIS-Screwdriver-Set-Vessel-Megadora-P1-P2-and-P3
A good set of JIS screwdrivers will pay for itself very quickly by not chewing up all those screws on the bike so that you have to buy new ones.
When splitting the caliper be prepared for some real gross looking fluid coming out, I suspect the fluid hasn't been changed since it left Japan.
As for the speedo drive screw, it's clear someone has already attempted to remove it by using a punch, they may have succeeded and just reused the screw, try lightly tapping the screw with a punch and hammer counter clockwise using the existing punch mark and see if it starts to spin out, if your lucky it will.
Thanks, I'll look for some. Does anyone know if the two "cross-head" screw driver shanks in the OEM tool kit are JIS-friendly?
572
« on: October 26, 2018, 04:26:28 PM »
I will try a basic "how it works"
The piston seal is a square cross section O ring whilst the groove it fits into has a slightly angled base, this means that when the seal is fitted it turns into a "diamond" shape so that only one corner is rubbing on the piston surface.
When the brake is applied the seal "twists" slightly and it is this twist which retracts the piston from the pad. Thus any crap in the groove or on the seal, or tighteness on the piston stops the piston retracting and the brake sticks.
Secondly look at the bracket bolted to the fork with two small bolts at the muguard stay and one big one lower down. The big one has a steel pinthat goes through the swinging part and locates in the top bracket held by the two small bolts, this pivot also gets corroded and the pin pluss hole in the swinging bracket need thourough cleaning and copperslipingso they move very freely. The two bolts you ringed are the ones that split the caliper(no fluid will be lost) the 750 started with bolts you have to undo through the wheel spokes but 550/500/400 do not.
Hope that helps, if in doubt of assembly look at parts book
Thanks for the detailed explaination, Bryanj! I do understand how the piston interacts with the seals, and why the condition you describe could cause trouble. I'll study the brackets alongside your explanation, as I'm still not sure why the floating caliper should require manual adjustment. I'll get there, though...
573
« on: October 26, 2018, 03:39:05 PM »
On the carb float bowl screws, the problem appears to be of corrosion between the two metal parts forming a particularly strong bond which ends up similar to the structural integrity.
As you've posted, it can easily go wrong or be all but impossible. Really it's in the realms of experimentation, maybe if you leave them to soak in something like turpentine/paraffin (think that's kerosene over there) for a week or so then get them in an ultrasonic cleaner before attempting to undo them?
They may of course be easy but you never know when they were last removed.
This sounds about right. I'll basically be readying the bike for winter storage; I was told it last ran really well, but that was two years ago. So, I'll focus this winter on making sure the fueling components are in good order, and also the front brake components, since I know they're knackered, so I can try to evaluate the rest - safely - on the road in the spring...
574
« on: October 26, 2018, 01:46:18 PM »
As regards foot brake and gear lever if the US variant is different then only in later modes as mine is American and has the standard items Your statement checks out, based on these paragraphs I found on page 42 in the April 2012 issue of your Classic Bike magazine... There is some confusion over model designation. Only the CB400F and the CB400F2 came to the UK. The F1 is a USA- and Canada-only model introduced in 1977. The F model is the original 1975 model year machine with Pillion footrests mounted on the swingarm and an unlined fuel tank in either Light Ruby Red or Varnish Blue. For 1976, the pillion footrests were mounted on a loop coming off the rear subframe and the fuel filler gained a lock, but the model was still called the CB400F in the UK and Europe.
Many US F models were modified with higher 'bars, but the 1977 F1 has a single (rear) stay on the front mudguard, slightly higher handlebars, a locking cover to the fuel cap and foot rests re-positioned a little further forward than on the UK and European models. Rare in the UK. Mine matches the latter description... The carb drain screw shouldn’t be too tight that you can’t release it but caution is required as it is brass and soft as doodoo. I’d get a good fitting screwdriver with a shank that will take a spanner and get extra leverage that way or if really stuck maybe get a pair of grips on them and be prepared to replace with new. I think I'll wait until I remove the carbs to proceed. I found a thread here where, IIRC, someone sheared the head off, then broke an easy-out in the remainder, then finally cracked the float bowl while trying to remove that drain screw. So I wondered if it was a common problem, and whether a pre-application of heat and/or penetrating oil might be in order...
575
« on: October 26, 2018, 12:22:09 PM »
A few years ago, the silencer crack seemed minor, now it's broken all the way 'round, and appears to show sooty signs of leaking on the bottom:
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Might this be repairable - welded, perhaps? I know it would be ugly, but function is what counts at this point...
576
« on: October 26, 2018, 12:18:28 PM »
A few other odds and ends... Not too sure about your driver's footrest position, and it's definitely got the wrong gear lever, it should have two rose joints and a Johnson Rod for adjustment. ... might be worth checking on the rear brake pedal as well, it should have a guard fitted to it to stop your foot rubbing on the clutch cover. I think the US models are different - here's a couple pics from the OEM owners manual: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Float bowl drain screw, yes? [ Guests cannot view attachments ] I tried to open #'s 1 and 4, stuck tight. I gave up before breaking anything, are there any tricks?
577
« on: October 26, 2018, 01:28:10 AM »
New chain and sprockets? The list of new parts required starts to grow! 😈
Yup! I read that the tachometer cable set screw is the same as the speedo one - they were right, both screws are equally "chowdered" on my bike...  I really am going to put it away for the winter, though. I've got the tank off; I'll pull the carbs and front brake parts, but otherwise it'll have a further rest...
578
« on: October 25, 2018, 10:26:18 PM »
Another little aside: I looked at the drive chain tension - on the center stand, I checked the vertical movement of the lower run of chain, midway between the two sprockets. The book says 3/4 of an inch. I wonder if the PO misread it, as the chain currently has 3 inches of movement. "3/4" and "3" look almost the same, right?
579
« on: October 25, 2018, 10:18:20 PM »
Just go through between the spokes to the two bolts on the back of the caliper to remove it.
All the fluid is in the outer half (no connection between the two parts at all) so you can unbolt and swing out a little to get access.
It'll become clear when you unbolt it, there's no bits to catch you out so easy to proceed like this.
Finally took the time to really look at the whole thing - based on that and what you said about the fluid, I figured, why not just loosen these two a smidgen: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Worked a treat, wheel spins freely. I'm wondering if those are the bolts you meant? Anyway, I'll see about removing the caliper later...
580
« on: October 25, 2018, 10:05:48 PM »
Just go through between the spokes to the two bolts on the back of the caliper to remove it.
All the fluid is in the outer half (no connection between the two parts at all) so you can unbolt and swing out a little to get access.
It'll become clear when you unbolt it, there's no bits to catch you out so easy to proceed like this.
I'll check it out, thanks!
581
« on: October 25, 2018, 10:04:18 PM »
Oh dear Matt, your introduction to the world of the fubbered fixings has started early on in your project. It will get worse though, so something to look forward too.
Music to my ears! 
582
« on: October 25, 2018, 09:21:30 PM »
Ok, so I thought I'd remove the front wheel so I could squeeze the caliper piston out with the brake lever before dismantling. Let's see, step one: "remove the speedometer set screw." Easy enough. Hmm, the recess looks pretty small, what size allen wrench is that? None of mine fit. Wait, where's my damn glasses, that doesn't look quite right:
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Wha? Quick forum search for that set screw... oh. So this is how it's going to be, huh? (sighs...)
583
« on: October 25, 2018, 07:31:47 PM »
Well, poking at the holes in the bottom of the reservoir didn't accomplish anything - when I pulse the brake lever in and out, I can see a little rush of fluid flow back into the reservoir from one of the holes. The wheel is still stuck, though, so caliper it is. FYI... new brake master cylinder diaphragm:  Mine: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Obviously no good, and behind that kink there's a rip anyway. Looks like rebuild kits don't include the diaphragm, either...
584
« on: October 25, 2018, 05:59:50 PM »
Thanks! I've read here that sometimes the tiny passage in the master cylinder ("compensating port"?) can get blocked, stopping the piston retracting - I'll look at that, then see about the caliper. It will definitely need attention over the winter, but I'd like to be able to wheel it into my neighbor's basement for winter storage, in the meantime...
585
« on: October 25, 2018, 03:10:42 PM »
So what IS the story with this front brake? Is it a sliding caliper type that only slides when you slide it yourself? I've never seen an adjustment system like this...
If you are on about the arm, It's a floating calliper set up. Needs to be set correctly to function correctly.
I'm sure that's true, but I'm trying to understand how it works and why it's designed the way it is. IIRC, my Kawasaki's Tokico caliper doesn't have any adjustment screws, it simply slides on pins as needed to equalize the piston forces... I opened up the master cylinder reservoir, found the fluid low and very dark-looking (no surprise), replaced the cap and gave the lever another squeeze - front wheel is now solidly locked again. Might I free it up by loosening the adjustment screw and manipulating the caliper or pads somehow? I just want to be able to move it around the garage...
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