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Messages - Warthog1959
16
« on: March 24, 2012, 09:19:23 PM »
Check carpy's cafe racer site in the US he does metal sheathed ones in black.
17
« on: March 24, 2012, 09:17:00 PM »
I'll check it when I next get chance to go out. Are you thinking fuelling? We did adjust the needles recently as it was running rich.
18
« on: March 24, 2012, 09:10:28 PM »
They seem in fair condition. It is the 3rd down pipe from the left. I swapped the HT lead with 2 and the fault didn't move. I actually took the plug out and tested it for a spark in 4 and the plug failed. So I replaced all the plugs at once. BUT after a run out the down pipe is still tepid. It does not feel like it is running on 3 though.
19
« on: March 24, 2012, 09:00:55 PM »
Look Up , Sandwells in Towester. They do a xylan coating in black or silver. Approx £45 per major piece. It is a non stick, heat resistant, chemical resistant coating.
20
« on: March 24, 2012, 08:47:17 PM »
The problem was the cracked crankcase repair. The weld was very slightly proud and prevented 4th from engaging. Unfortunate but no damage. Bike back together and running pretty good, apart from 1 of the downpipes running luke warm. The tests I did had me convinced it was the spark plug so changed all 4 with iridium's, but it is still not as hot as the other 3, The ignition is electronic so, I suppose it could be the coil or HT lead. Can one side of a coil fail? anyhow Thanks for your efforts. as a result I now have a used set of selector forks as spare. No bad thing.
21
« on: March 11, 2012, 09:44:11 PM »
The selectors were checked before reassembly, went through the range. I can't get past 2nd when the engine is not running.
22
« on: March 11, 2012, 06:40:27 PM »
Sorry yes it is 4th. I've carefully counted 1 down and 2 up, then nothing.
23
« on: March 11, 2012, 06:38:53 PM »
We have an engine mount swivel to do that with. i didn't replace the bearings on the gear cluster. I did just get a set of selector forks and a shaft for an F2 for £22. didn't actually dismantle the gear cluster.
Is there any possibility that this is the selector drum. I have a spare used one of those also.
24
« on: March 11, 2012, 06:14:12 PM »
It's an f2 super sport 78
25
« on: March 11, 2012, 04:55:51 PM »
Ok thanks. I'm not sure what to do now, selector forks don't appear to be available. Shame summer has just arrived.
26
« on: March 11, 2012, 04:36:17 PM »
No broken washers the gear cluster was inspected, but not Dismantled.. Possibly selector forks then? Can't say I would have been able to recognise wear on these.
27
« on: March 11, 2012, 03:17:33 PM »
The entire engine was rebuilt, This is the 1st ride. This needed doing because there was a crack in the crankcase in front of the front sprocket. 4th gear worked before the build, however was subject to the occasional false neutral. All bearings and seals were replaced. Clutch pressure plate was replaced as this was functional but broken.
28
« on: March 11, 2012, 02:56:33 PM »
My engine has recently been rebuilt and is running well. However it is failing to engage into 4th and has to be put back into 3rd to engage drive. Is this likely to be clutch adjustment?
29
« on: September 08, 2011, 02:46:32 PM »
My apologies if I have not done a formal introduction, I joined over 2 years ago and cannot seem to find my old posts if any. Big problem I built an F2 cafe racer in 2009 and kitted out the engine with an 836 kit and new valves, titanium valves guides, chain, engine studs, cam etc. It also now has 29mm smooth bore carbs. I have been observing a slight oil seepage on the fins. This very small oil leak from the fins recently started to grow to the point of running down and off the frame, only after a ride, but not whilst just sitting there like an old brit bike. I have had the right hand exhaust off and between the first two R/H/S exhaust ports I can see what appears to be a shiney shaft, which I can only assume is an engine stud. I surmise from this I have melted a hole in my cylinder head. Not sure how, although with all the tuning and upgrades the performance increased immensely. I'm not sure where maximum Red line would be on this config, but I may have gone past it a couple of times. All that said and done I would not expect to melt a hole in the cylinder head. Can anybody out there clarify, what may have caused this. Also has anyone got an F2 cylinder head for sale? 
30
« on: January 23, 2010, 09:42:39 AM »
Yes thanks for the direction but seen this and don't really want twin discs as like the idea of the simple original single look. Have read on US site re EBC rotor as straight bolt on. Anyone done this? Still fancy the idea of modern caliper too!
The rear disc is the real issue as it looks clumsy to me on F1 / F2. My CB900 had similar set up too.
If you like the simple original look why not go back to a hub break like on the early f's and k's. Those alloy rear hubs look great polished up and you don't need megga powerful rear breaks anyway. Also you get rid of the break disc and the clutter of the reservoir. Actually it's what I am doing for my F2 Cafe, I have a K wheel, hub with tyre on it's way.
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