Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 29, 2020, 05:32:01 PM
The seller declared that he bought it from a relative some 12 years ago with a rattling cam chain - he lost interest when he bought a Harley so by the time he got round to fixing the Honda ill health had prevented him from biking again so he decided to sell the unloved Honda.
It does crank over on the kickstart with reasonable compressions - certainly enough to get it running before the full rebuild ahead.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 29, 2020, 05:34:44 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 29, 2020, 05:44:40 PM
Having trouble uploading my pictures despite reducing them in size?(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50282739141_4d070b7ee2_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBjbwi)Plug leads in place with new coils r (https://flic.kr/p/2jBjbwi) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: heli_madken on August 29, 2020, 06:15:45 PM
I struggled resizing pictures as well, I use PicResize now - https://picresize.com/# (https://picresize.com/#) and reduce by 25% seems to work.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 29, 2020, 06:45:55 PM
The coils were completely shot with some old fuel in a very rusty looking petrol tank. At least it came with a new battery & I got the electric starter working once I had reinstated some wiring.
It's given me something to do in my retirement - so far it's been more of a learning dip than a curve I can't believe how out of touch I have become considering I had a very long background in the automotive industry. I used to fit heaters & do pre-delivery inspections on new Vauxhalls when I was only 14/15 years of age - were talking FB Victors & HA Vivas here. lol
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on August 29, 2020, 07:08:30 PM
Oh shit. Thread hijack already
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Bryanj on August 29, 2020, 09:07:53 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 29, 2020, 11:27:20 PM
I tried sleeping in the van when I went camping but it was too darn cold - in my defence I was single at the time.
Post by: heli_madken on August 29, 2020, 11:37:29 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 30, 2020, 01:35:04 PM
Back to the build my first hurdle when looking to start the engine was that the throttle was solid it would not open the main throttle as all the slider things were seized solid. The seller assured me he had cleaned out all the carburetors but that must have been a decade earlier.
When I stripped down the carburetors all four of the main throttle valves were stuck solid in the closed position. Not wanting to damage anything I released the first one using the wife's nail varnish remover - this worked quite easily but the other three did not respond to the same solvent.
To release the remaining three I fully immersed them in fresh petrol in a Tupperware container fitting the lid and soaking for 48 hours. This worked fine on two but for the last one I replaced the fuel again leaving to soak fully submerged for another couple of days. After a bit of heat from an old Hair Dryer when the fuel had evaporated the last one came free. All rebuilt last week after a slow start when I tried to fit a jet into the place where the float valve clamp screw fits.lol The parts were all cleaned in my Brother-in-Laws Ultrasonic Bath - its done a fair job I have to say though he did say that there were other ways costing more money to return them to almost as factory new. At present I have not explored this route as I am not looking for show standard just a good working bike. I fear this might change if I see too many mint 40 year old bikes.
I pushed the boat out and bought a Dynatek Electronic Ignition Set with Coils etc - I have fitted this just need to set the static timing when I am nearer trying to start her up. Coils were an easy fit using the old coil mounts with a bit of modification with a junior hack saw & drill driven cutting wheel. - they clear the fuel tank so so far so good.
Carbs now re-fitted at present using the existing throttle cables for the initial start up phase. I'm waiting for some fuel hose - I will use this time to clean the petrol tank a bit more. My heart sank when I first looked inside the tank but after putting in some Turps substitute (rather than water) and some 2-3 mm grade silver plant gravel its cleaned up enormously after some shaking sessions.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50286055902_3707b313e7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBBbtQ)What colour (https://flic.kr/p/2jBBbtQ) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50285900711_2be4f4c266_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBAom8)Rusty tank as usual (https://flic.kr/p/2jBAom8) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Johnwebley on August 30, 2020, 04:50:00 PM
My dad had an HA Viva (White).I passed my test in a HA Viva. Is that the one with sharp edges on the wings?
Oh shit. Thread hijack already
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 30, 2020, 06:32:33 PM
I took my test in my Dad's Company car an almost new Vauxhall FC 101 Victor Deluxe same type of wings as HA!
My bike doesn't look like a genuine Honda Blue colour for a CB 400 anyone know if its a Honda shade ?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 31, 2020, 12:29:51 PM
I still have more rust to remove from inside but clearly if new bits can't be purchased for the tap will have to shell out for a replacement.
I'll put some of my silver gravel in again and do the shakey, shakey, shake routine until my arms ache.
Any advice as to best source for a replacement is it DS or DS for a petrol tap ?
Cheap one below knowing my luck it will not fit thought the CB400F2 is listed as suitable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Honda-Petrol-Tap-Fuel-Petcock-CM185-CM200-XL100-CB400-XL125-XL175-XL185-XR/272559859130?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 04, 2020, 09:01:17 PM
Had a scan of my kidneys yesterday waiting for the camera jobby to check my bladder out. Oh the indignity I have to face within 14 days as a day patient!
Anyways I'm tickety boo today but am stuck until some bits & the Electrolyte arrives for my tank cleaning task. Still awaiting a sellers response on a cheap Petcock.
Post by: Lobo on September 04, 2020, 11:07:18 PM
Personally don’t like the look of the eBay petcock as it’s riveted together - tho’ in truth should not be a big deal I guess. As a general comment, the more you deviate from OEM parts the harder your bike becomes to maintain... as any adjoining part then needs a bit of modification to fit. (bladder bone connected to the kidneys bone as it were 😂)
(In this case the hose dia may be different to the carbs?)
Cheers,
Simon
Post by: SeanFD on September 05, 2020, 08:22:22 AM
Anyways I'm tickety boo today but am stuck until some bits & the Electrolyte arrives for my tank cleaning task. Still awaiting a sellers response on a cheap Petcock.
What electrolyte are you waiting for? All you need is some bicarbonate of soda.
The other thing to try if you’re not in a hurry is white vinegar; it is very cheap (<£20 for 20L on EBay) and avoids all the hassle of fashioning electrodes shaped to reach the deeper recesses of the tank. The one advantage of electrolysis is that it only attacks the rust, not the good metal underneath.
Just pour the vinegar in and leave for a few days – depending on the degree of rusting – pour it out, but not down the drain. If you’re not happy just pour the vinegar back in and wait some more. If there is a lot of deposit in teh vinegar you can strain it using a kitchen sieve.
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 08:41:34 AM
Post by: Rob62 on September 05, 2020, 01:01:08 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 05, 2020, 01:07:32 PM
You can also use Citric Acid (available everywhere and as cheap as chips). It is the main ingredient in Deox-C. We have used Citric Acid with excellent results.
In reality I guess the Citric Acid is just there to produce ions to allow the current to flow so many alternatives can work. Obviously not Table Salt as that would give off Chlorine gas as opposed to Hydrogen at the Electrode (Anode end ?).
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 05, 2020, 01:13:21 PM
Anyways I'm tickety boo today but am stuck until some bits & the Electrolyte arrives for my tank cleaning task. Still awaiting a sellers response on a cheap Petcock.
What electrolyte are you waiting for? All you need is some bicarbonate of soda.
The other thing to try if you’re not in a hurry is white vinegar; it is very cheap (<£20 for 20L on EBay) and avoids all the hassle of fashioning electrodes shaped to reach the deeper recesses of the tank. The one advantage of electrolysis is that it only attacks the rust, not the good metal underneath.
Just pour the vinegar in and leave for a few days – depending on the degree of rusting – pour it out, but not down the drain. If you’re not happy just pour the vinegar back in and wait some more. If there is a lot of deposit in teh vinegar you can strain it using a kitchen sieve.
I bought some white vinegar a few weeks ago with a view to trying it - then read loads of reviews saying it does not work! We having it on our Fish & Chips instead. lol
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 01:47:39 PM
Personally don’t like the look of the eBay petcock as it’s riveted together - tho’ in truth should not be a big deal I guess. As a general comment, the more you deviate from OEM parts the harder your bike becomes to maintain... as any adjoining part then needs a bit of modification to fit. (bladder bone connected to the kidneys bone as it were 😂)
(In this case the hose dia may be different to the carbs?)
Cheers,
Simon
I can't find a petcock that isn't riveted together. DSS is offering a "genuine" one for £47 - it's riveted and in fact looks identical to less expensive one I got from 4into1... which leaked the first time I used it, BTW... >:(
EDIT: I'm talking about the '77 USA version...
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 02:02:32 PM
Don't forget a' genuine' part is not an 'original' part. All genuine means in this context is that it fits other Honda's, including the 400 FourPersonally don’t like the look of the eBay petcock as it’s riveted together - tho’ in truth should not be a big deal I guess. As a general comment, the more you deviate from OEM parts the harder your bike becomes to maintain... as any adjoining part then needs a bit of modification to fit. (bladder bone connected to the kidneys bone as it were 😂)
(In this case the hose dia may be different to the carbs?)
Cheers,
Simon
I can't find a petcock that isn't riveted together. DSS is offering a "genuine" one for £47 - it's riveted and in fact looks identical to less expensive one I got from 4into1... which leaked the first time I used it, BTW... >:(
EDIT: I'm talking about the '77 USA version...
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 02:28:53 PM
Don't forget a' genuine' part is not an 'original' part. All genuine means in this context is that it fits other Honda's, including the 400 Four
:-\
I'm not sure I understand what that means, in terms of a retailer like DSS who is generally offering two types of parts, "genuine" and "aftermarket." As a customer, I think that "genuine" would mean made by Honda, or by the manufacturer that originally made them for Honda (which DSS appears to call "OEM Replacement").
If "genuine" simply means that it fits, couldn't any part - even an aftermarket pattern part - that fits be called "genuine?"
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 02:45:48 PM
No, the 'genuine' parts that the likes of DS sell are genuine Honda parts but that is all it means. If you are looking for a replacement for an item on your bike to replace what was fitted when new, you need an original part. Genuine just means it's genuine Honda , will fit as a replacement part, usually to lots of different Honda models, and do the job but it is not the same as the original part.Don't forget a' genuine' part is not an 'original' part. All genuine means in this context is that it fits other Honda's, including the 400 Four
:-\
I'm not sure I understand what that means, in terms of a retailer like DSS who is generally offering two types of parts, "genuine" and "aftermarket." As a customer, I think that "genuine" would mean made by Honda, or by the manufacturer that originally made them for Honda (which DSS appears to call "OEM Replacement").
If "genuine" simply means that it fits, couldn't any part - even an aftermarket pattern part - that fits be called "genuine?"
After market (pattern) means its made by anyone else, not Honda and is obviously not identical to the original part fitted to the bike but, it does the job.
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 02:54:01 PM
No, the 'genuine' parts that the likes of DS sell are genuine Honda parts but that is all it means. If you are looking for a replacement for an item on your bike to replace what was fitted when new, you need an original part. Genuine just means it's genuine Honda , will fit as a replacement part, usually to lots of different Honda models, and do the job but it is not the same as the original part.Don't forget a' genuine' part is not an 'original' part. All genuine means in this context is that it fits other Honda's, including the 400 Four
:-\
I'm not sure I understand what that means, in terms of a retailer like DSS who is generally offering two types of parts, "genuine" and "aftermarket." As a customer, I think that "genuine" would mean made by Honda, or by the manufacturer that originally made them for Honda (which DSS appears to call "OEM Replacement").
If "genuine" simply means that it fits, couldn't any part - even an aftermarket pattern part - that fits be called "genuine?"
After market (pattern) means its made by anyone else, not Honda and is obviously not identical to the original part fitted to the bike but, it does the job.
Ah, ok - that's different...
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 02:57:48 PM
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 03:09:33 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 05, 2020, 03:17:04 PM
Apologies Ted for hijacking your thread ☺️☺️☺️
I'm okay with meandering / hijacking threads as there is usually a good point or nugget of information in the process.
There is a genuine Honda Petcock on e-bay with what looks like the right part number at £75 starting bid - it had no bids on previous listings. If it is NOS the rubber seals might be perished.
Can you get the O rings for the tap as that and the strainer/filter would do for me ?
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 03:19:18 PM
Yes, David Silver does a replacement O ring but he says it's best to fit 2 of them 🙄🙄🙄I will post the link in a minuteApologies Ted for hijacking your thread ☺️☺️☺️
I'm okay with meandering / hijacking threads as there is usually a good point or nugget of information in the process.
There is a genuine Honda Petcock on e-bay with what looks like the right part number at £75 starting bid - it had no bids on previous listings. If it is NOS the rubber seals might be perished.
Can you get the O rings for the tap as that and the strainer/filter would do for me ?
Here you go
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB400F-SUPER-SPORT-FOUR/part_196697/
Edit..... Just seen the one you mention on ebay, that's an original fuel tap, so not a bad price really.
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 04:10:33 PM
Any advice as to best source for a replacement is it DS or DS for a petrol tap ?
Cheap one below knowing my luck it will not fit thought the CB400F2 is listed as suitable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Honda-Petrol-Tap-Fuel-Petcock-CM185-CM200-XL100-CB400-XL125-XL175-XL185-XR/272559859130?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
The USA/Canada F2 uses a different part number than the rest of the world models - it looks different in photos, too. Not sure if they're interchangeable, though. That Ebay link looks like my USA-spec petcock, compare that to Julie's pic above:
(https://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/cock-assyfuel_medium16950377703-01_936a.jpg)
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 04:15:58 PM
The eBay link you posted above Matt is the same fuel tap that DS sells for the 400/4.I did cross reference the DS part number a minute ago and I see it fits loads of different Hondas. I wouldn't know if the original one I posted a link to on CMS would fit a USA / Canada model, I must admit, I thought all the original taps were the same on all market models but maybe not 🤔Any advice as to best source for a replacement is it DS or DS for a petrol tap ?
Cheap one below knowing my luck it will not fit thought the CB400F2 is listed as suitable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Honda-Petrol-Tap-Fuel-Petcock-CM185-CM200-XL100-CB400-XL125-XL175-XL185-XR/272559859130?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
The USA/Canada F2 uses a different part number than the rest of the world models - it looks different in photos, too. Not sure if they're interchangeable, though. That Ebay link looks like my USA-spec petcock, compare that to Julie's pic above:
(https://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/cock-assyfuel_medium16950377703-01_936a.jpg)
Edit.... Just looked and the USA/ Canada original tap is the same part number as every other market
[attachimg=1]
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 04:56:10 PM
The eBay link you posted above Matt is the same fuel tap that DS sells for the 400/4.I did cross reference the DS part number a minute ago and I see it fits loads of different Hondas. I wouldn't know if the original one I posted a link to on CMS would fit a USA / Canada model, I must admit, I thought all the original taps were the same on all market models but maybe not 🤔
Edit.... Just looked and the USA/ Canada original tap is the same part number as every other market
(Attachment Link)
I don't know about all market models either! I'm definitely no expert here - although I have learned a lot about the differences between the '77 USA and all the other models...
I do know that CSML's 1977 USA listing shows a different part number, and a different-looking petcock, which I showed in my earlier post. That's why I mentioned it - that Ebay link was the OP's, I wanted him to make sure he was really looking at the correct part.
If you have a copy of the Honda parts catalog which includes CB400F, CB400F1 and CB400F2 "under one roof" (available in 2 different versions at this link (http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb400)), you'll find the different part number for just the USA/Canada F2 models: 16950-377-701.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 05:16:41 PM
That's weird, as it says that part number fits a CB125T2 ENGLAND PA.COCK.F, CB405F. But, there is then a supersession # being 16950377702 and that number shows the riveted type like you posted a pic of earlier. I really can't see what or why there is a difference in the original part though for USA/ Canada markets 🤔🤔It could always be an error in the original parts list translation, there are plenty of them in the parts manual.The eBay link you posted above Matt is the same fuel tap that DS sells for the 400/4.I did cross reference the DS part number a minute ago and I see it fits loads of different Hondas. I wouldn't know if the original one I posted a link to on CMS would fit a USA / Canada model, I must admit, I thought all the original taps were the same on all market models but maybe not 🤔
Edit.... Just looked and the USA/ Canada original tap is the same part number as every other market
(Attachment Link)
I don't know about all market models either! I'm definitely no expert here - although I have learned a lot about the differences between the '77 USA and all the other models...
I do know that CSML's 1977 USA listing shows a different part number, and a different-looking petcock, which I showed in my earlier post. That's why I mentioned it - that Ebay link was the OP's, I wanted him to make sure he was really looking at the correct part.
If you have a copy of the Honda parts catalog which includes CB400F, CB400F1 and CB400F2 "under one roof" (available in 2 different versions at this link (http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb400)), you'll find the different part number for just the USA/Canada F2 models: 16950-377-701.
(Attachment Link)
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 05:52:49 PM
I really can't see what or why there is a difference in the original part though for USA/ Canada markets 🤔🤔It could always be an error in the original parts list translation, there are plenty of them in the parts manual.
I can't either. The "multi" parts manual I referenced earlier even has a separate "exclusive parts for each area" section which details some of the USA F2's idiosyncratic differences - like the single-stayed front fender, the different foot brake and shift linkages, the exhaust header attachment collars, the hideous fuel filler "door" - and the apparently non-serviceable (riveted?) petcock...
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 05:58:04 PM
Have you asked the 400/4 owners on the USA forum what tap they have fitted?I really can't see what or why there is a difference in the original part though for USA/ Canada markets 🤔🤔It could always be an error in the original parts list translation, there are plenty of them in the parts manual.
I can't either. The "multi" parts manual I referenced earlier even has a separate "exclusive parts for each area" section which details some of the USA F2's idiosyncratic differences - like the single-stayed front fender, the different foot brake and shift linkages, the exhaust header attachment collars, the hideous fuel filler "door" - and the apparently non-serviceable (riveted?) petcock...
(Attachment Link)
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 06:02:54 PM
Have you asked the 400/4 owners on the USA forum what tap they have fitted?I really can't see what or why there is a difference in the original part though for USA/ Canada markets 🤔🤔It could always be an error in the original parts list translation, there are plenty of them in the parts manual.
I can't either. The "multi" parts manual I referenced earlier even has a separate "exclusive parts for each area" section which details some of the USA F2's idiosyncratic differences - like the single-stayed front fender, the different foot brake and shift linkages, the exhaust header attachment collars, the hideous fuel filler "door" - and the apparently non-serviceable (riveted?) petcock...
(Attachment Link)
Nope! :D
I hadn't given it any thought - until just a couple of days ago when my brand-new (but cheap aftermarket) petcock I got from 4into1 demonstrated its inability to keep fuel in the tank...
Post by: AndyD on September 05, 2020, 06:31:42 PM
I've got three 400 tanks and all have a 20 x 1.5mm thread on the underside but everyone I check with only do a 16mm tap for the 400.
Googling to extreme boredom the only option I could find was one from the US - from 4 into 1 - which I ordered and is somewhere in transit at the moment.
Real pain if this turns out to be no good
Cheers,
Andy
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 05, 2020, 07:07:05 PM
Got me a bit worried again now...All this mystery with the fuel taps is telling me to respect the original one I have fitted to my 400/4. There are enough dramas going on in the world at the moment without me getting in a tiz over a tap 😁😁😁😁
I've got three 400 tanks and all have a 20 x 1.5mm thread on the underside but everyone I check with only do a 16mm tap for the 400.
Googling to extreme boredom the only option I could find was one from the US - from 4 into 1 - which I ordered and is somewhere in transit at the moment.
Real pain if this turns out to be no good
Cheers,
Andy
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 07:20:11 PM
Got me a bit worried again now...
I've got three 400 tanks and all have a 20 x 1.5mm thread on the underside but everyone I check with only do a 16mm tap for the 400.
Googling to extreme boredom the only option I could find was one from the US - from 4 into 1 - which I ordered and is somewhere in transit at the moment.
Real pain if this turns out to be no good
4into1 sells 2 different size petcocks for 400's: the 20mm x 1.25 for '75-'76 models, and 14mm x 1.0 for '77 models - both "genuine" Honda and aftermarket currently in stock for both sizes. The 14mm one fits my '77 USA tank. Do you know which size you ordered?
Post by: AndyD on September 05, 2020, 08:03:06 PM
It’s a m20 x 1.5 aftermarket tap - no idea why it’s so hard to find.
Cheers
Andy
Post by: mattsz on September 05, 2020, 08:09:58 PM
Matt
It’s a m20 x 1.5 aftermarket tap - no idea why it’s so hard to find.
Cheers
Andy
Me either - here's two from the supplier you just ordered from - hope you got the right size!
"Genuine" Honda: https://4into1.com/genuine-honda-petcock-16950-377-005-cb400f-1975-1976/ (https://4into1.com/genuine-honda-petcock-16950-377-005-cb400f-1975-1976/)
Aftermarket: https://4into1.com/honda-motorcycle-fuel-valve-petcock-20mm-x-1-5mm/ (https://4into1.com/honda-motorcycle-fuel-valve-petcock-20mm-x-1-5mm/)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 06, 2020, 04:40:57 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50312271941_2497c3a8d7_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jDVxAv)Inside is much worse (https://flic.kr/p/2jDVxAv) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50311603573_e062ea4c11_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jDS7UV)Petrol Cap Rivett (https://flic.kr/p/2jDS7UV) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 06, 2020, 04:43:12 PM
Question do I have to drill out the end of the pin / rivett to remove the cap - can you buy new pins or is there a better way forwards?
Post by: Lobo on September 06, 2020, 10:21:34 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 08, 2020, 09:13:15 PM
This photo has been shown elsewhere
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50320351313_3feee4dbef_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jECXj2)5 hours in Evaporust (https://flic.kr/p/2jECXj2) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 09, 2020, 08:07:12 PM
I'm thinking now to just get the engine running as planned if possible by the end of this month. Then I might have to abandon the planned full strip down & go instead for an Oily Rag jobbie so I can ride it when the cam chain & clutch have been sorted.
For now I've ditched the Electrolysis Petrol Tank Clean and gone and tipped 5 Litres of Evaporust in the petrol tank today. That can work its magic whilst I have CT Scans etc etc. Hey I'm 72 I know my three score years and ten are behind me but this was a bit of a sucker punch. Sorry to burden folk here about it but a problem shared and all that.
I will keep on dipping in and out of the Forum to keep up to speed with everyones bike build progress. Cheers for now ....Ted
Post by: Johnwebley on September 09, 2020, 08:12:58 PM
Get the bike running and enjoy it.
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: mattsz on September 09, 2020, 08:29:17 PM
Get the bike running and enjoy it.
Agreed. Everything you planned to do will be waiting when you get back to it.
Sorry to hear about your kidney issues. Doctors are smart these days, though, and one kidney is all you really need - I know of a few very selfless donors who can vouch for that! My ticker wandered off into the weeds on me a few weeks ago - one surprise pacemaker installation later and I'm about back on my feet again - here's hoping for the same type of result for you!!!
Post by: philward on September 09, 2020, 08:55:21 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 09, 2020, 09:05:52 PM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on September 09, 2020, 09:55:48 PM
Post by: Bryanj on September 09, 2020, 11:25:59 PM
Do whats necessary to enjoy it then do jobs as you feel like it.
All the best
Bryan
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 10, 2020, 08:22:21 AM
If its warm this afternoon I'm going fishing to a lovely local lake where I am a club member - no kids allowed just brilliant scenery and wildlife - catching a decent sized carp is just icing on the cake.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50325288478_fb5da683cd_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jF5fXy)Carp 22 nd June 2020 (https://flic.kr/p/2jF5fXy) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: mattsz on September 10, 2020, 11:55:17 AM
;D ;D ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 10, 2020, 03:40:31 PM
Post by: mattsz on September 10, 2020, 04:14:20 PM
Don't upset the Apple Carp!
You're gonna be just fine...
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 22, 2020, 11:05:53 AM
As its sunny and getting towards the back end of the Carp season I'm fishing this afternoon - planning to fit the tank tomorrow and sort out the static timing.
Starter button pressing hopefully before the weekend.
Had a good phone call yesterday from my Urologist who says the CT scan reveals no further problems with cancer spread - right kidney removal should be in the next 4 weeks - end of October by the latest provided Covid does not mess up admissions.
Post by: mattsz on September 22, 2020, 11:17:36 AM
Had a good phone call yesterday from my Urologist who says the CT scan reveals no further problems with cancer spread - right kidney removal should be in the next 4 weeks - end of October by the latest provided Covid does not mess up admissions.
Fingers crossed!!!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 23, 2020, 11:24:10 AM
Last night I drained out the bulk of the 10 Litres of Evaporust - I filtered back into original containers as its not fully spent yet.
Results are amazing - shame I can't get my phone into the tank - its 98% like new everywhere I can see clean silver metal!
The bit that's rather patchy is what I would describe as the inside hump near the filler cap - it has a few spots near the top of the ridge hence I can't call it 100%! Trouble is it needs about 13 Litres to full it right up - maybee another time.
Drained out the last remnants of Evaporust this morning - now the first rinse out using a pint or so of fresh petrol, 325 ml of Wynns Dry Fuel plus 1/3 pint approx of 2T Oil.
I will slosh that all around to try to inhibit any further rusting.
It's a strange thing but as I am approaching fitting the tank and getting close to an attempted start up I feel myself slowing down fearing unforeseen issues. I ought instead to be estatic at the prospect - is this normal !!
Knowing my luck the Carbs will decide to flood just to set me back a few days. Wish I had tested them with fuel before I refitted them now!
This Friday all things being equal it will be fitting the rebuilt Petcock and putting some proper petrol in the tank!
Post by: mattsz on September 23, 2020, 12:31:34 PM
It's a strange thing but as I am approaching fitting the tank and getting close to an attempted start up I feel myself slowing down fearing unforeseen issues. I ought instead to be estatic at the prospect - is this normal !!
Oh boy, do I understand that feeling!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 23, 2020, 01:44:14 PM
It's a strange thing but as I am approaching fitting the tank and getting close to an attempted start up I feel myself slowing down fearing unforeseen issues. I ought instead to be estatic at the prospect - is this normal !!
Oh boy, do I understand that feeling!
Thank goodness I thought I was alone with the unsaid dread!
Post by: mattsz on September 23, 2020, 02:17:01 PM
Thank goodness I thought I was alone with the unsaid dread!
I understand exactly where it comes from, for me. Start with a bike I know wasn't running all that well before it sat for 3 years. Add to that a bunch of repairs and adjustments - to a bike and to systems I'm not too familiar with, and therefore don't have a lot of confidence about. I hope for the best, but assume things will go wrong...
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 24, 2020, 05:00:11 PM
Walked away wishing I had checked the carbs with fuel before I re-fitted them to the bike had a moan with a mate who said - have you tried a gentle tap on the carbs incase the floats are just a bit stuck as they were completely dry. Did just that followed by shaking the bike from side to side - fuel back into reserve no sign of any more fuel from overflow pipes. I've given it a good 5 minutes and no more fuel out of any of the overflows. I feel happy that's good enough for a planned initial start up.
I've checked for spark - nice visible spark at the old dirty spark plugs - I am now ready to check the static timing tomorrow morning then its new plugs in place and see if she will run. The new plugs that came with the bike are NGK D8EA as are the old ones that were fitted.
Fingers crossed for tomorrows start up attempt !! :)
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 24, 2020, 05:29:03 PM
Another step closer today - re-fitted old Petcock with new tank strainer used the old seal but have the two that DS supplied - petrol tank back on the bike - 4 Litres of new Super Unleaded tap into Reserve position petrol filled the little in-line filter all looked okay for a minute or so then petrol started coming out of two of the overflow pipes. Big curse to myself !
Walked away wishing I had checked the carbs with fuel before I re-fitted them to the bike had a moan with a mate who said - have you tried a gentle tap on the carbs incase the floats are just a bit stuck as they were completely dry. Did just that followed by shaking the bike from side to side - fuel back into reserve no sign of any more fuel from overflow pipes. I've given it a good 5 minutes and no more fuel out of any of the overflows. I feel happy that's good enough for a planned initial start up.
I've checked for spark - nice visible spark at the old dirty spark plugs - I am now ready to check the static timing tomorrow morning then its new plugs in place and see if she will run. The new plugs that came with the bike are NGK D8EA as are the old ones that were fitted.
Fingers crossed for tomorrows start up attempt !! :)
Ooooh, how exciting, good luck 🤞🤞🤞
Post by: mattsz on September 24, 2020, 09:41:59 PM
Post by: Grumpyfck on September 24, 2020, 10:36:52 PM
Another step closer today - re-fitted old Petcock with new tank strainer used the old seal but have the two that DS supplied - petrol tank back on the bike - 4 Litres of new Super Unleaded tap into Reserve position petrol filled the little in-line filter all looked okay for a minute or so then petrol started coming out of two of the overflow pipes. Big curse to myself !This is better than eastenders, good luck.
Walked away wishing I had checked the carbs with fuel before I re-fitted them to the bike had a moan with a mate who said - have you tried a gentle tap on the carbs incase the floats are just a bit stuck as they were completely dry. Did just that followed by shaking the bike from side to side - fuel back into reserve no sign of any more fuel from overflow pipes. I've given it a good 5 minutes and no more fuel out of any of the overflows. I feel happy that's good enough for a planned initial start up.
I've checked for spark - nice visible spark at the old dirty spark plugs - I am now ready to check the static timing tomorrow morning then its new plugs in place and see if she will run. The new plugs that came with the bike are NGK D8EA as are the old ones that were fitted.
Fingers crossed for tomorrows start up attempt !! :)
Post by: heli_madken on September 24, 2020, 11:18:21 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 25, 2020, 11:34:42 AM
Cranked her over having got the oil light out first with no plugs fitted - plugs in after a fair bit of popping & banging she started to fire - more choke less throttle and away she went. Only a brief video but I am ecstatic !!
Hope the brief video works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XqxDCtCqKg&feature=youtu.be
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 25, 2020, 11:57:01 AM
Post by: mattsz on September 25, 2020, 11:58:16 AM
The video works - it's sideways, but that's ok, the bike isn't moving anyway! ;D
Post by: K2-K6 on September 25, 2020, 12:01:25 PM
Unfortunately for me it starts that video trail on the tube with the suggestion side bar, and off into all sort of interesting stuff :D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 25, 2020, 02:02:39 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSXzqWE26Ho&feature=youtu.be
Post by: mike the bike on September 25, 2020, 02:08:55 PM
Post by: taysidedragon on September 25, 2020, 03:45:44 PM
Post by: Grumpyfck on September 25, 2020, 05:38:55 PM
Set the static timing this morning took me about an hour to get it all done plus 30 mins spent making a decent loom connector & test lamp to set 1&4 then 2&3.
Cranked her over having got the oil light out first with no plugs fitted - plugs in after a fair bit of popping & banging she started to fire - more choke less throttle and away she went. Only a brief video but I am ecstatic !!
Hope the brief video works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XqxDCtCqKg&feature=youtu.be
Now I am impatient for mine.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 02, 2020, 06:26:36 PM
Tried by hand - got nowhere so got out my Kielder 1/2" drive impact driver with a new long JIS bit fitted via my hex adapter. They have all come out with ease. Only loosened them a few turns then nipped them up by hand ready for oil drain and strip down hopefully over the next few days.
My nightmare experience back in the mid 1960's of removing similar screws on my Honda 250 Dream with a hammer & chisel or drilling them out are now history. RESULT.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 09, 2020, 01:24:49 PM
I've dismantled the camlifter clutch operating unit in the clutch cover case - the bit with 3 large ball bearings fitted with a bearing race holder thing. It looks badly worn but looking at pictures they all look strange in that the balls sit in an oval looking recess. DS says parts not available but their pictures show a worn like oval seat so I guess its the design!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 10, 2020, 03:41:11 AM
Having assembled the clutch unit I've started to realise that I'm not taking enough photographs as I dismantle things as I should. I think to myself its obvious how this fits - then a couple of weeks later I find myself wondering how it all goes together again.
In my youth I could strip down a Mini Cooper S engine & gearbox - change a synchromesh using the manual only for torque settings and the like! Not sure if it's my age or that more modern motor cycles engines are so much more compact.
I have two workshop manuals that came with the bike - I am finding that they seem to be written for folks who know what they are doing.lol
Thank goodness for this brilliant site.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 19, 2020, 12:54:42 PM
When the clutch casing has been re-painted & replaced I am going to do a final compression test both hot & cold to help me decide if a full engine strip is really necessary.
I am aiming to then remove the engine & put it on its NJ sourced stand, get as far as possible with the full frame strip down to enable powder coating.
I am guessing the engine is pretty heavy - so can it be removed complete or do I need to take off the rocker cover?
Any tips for getting it out of the frame please?
Post by: Nurse Julie on October 19, 2020, 12:59:44 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 19, 2020, 05:42:22 PM
It can be stripped whilst still in the frame Ted. Even the 400/4 engines are a heavy lump when complete. Remove, rocker cover, head, barrels and then its easier and lighter to lift the bottom end out.Will it not come out as a complete unit?
I can easily obtain assistance with a lift out.
Post by: Nurse Julie on October 19, 2020, 05:44:44 PM
Oh yes, it will come out in one lump very easily with 2 of you Ted. I assumed you would be doing it on your own and didn't want you to get a double hernia on top of your other issues 😊😊😊It can be stripped whilst still in the frame Ted. Even the 400/4 engines are a heavy lump when complete. Remove, rocker cover, head, barrels and then its easier and lighter to lift the bottom end out.Will it not come out as a complete unit?
I can easily obtain assistance with a lift out.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 19, 2020, 06:37:56 PM
If there was room for bodies & hands I can get 2 to help me. Too late for a hernia warning they found a small one when I had my last scan. I've no idea how I got it as I'm very careful when I lift anything - I don't do heavy. LolOh yes, it will come out in one lump very easily with 2 of you Ted. I assumed you would be doing it on your own and didn't want you to get a double hernia on top of your other issues 😊😊😊It can be stripped whilst still in the frame Ted. Even the 400/4 engines are a heavy lump when complete. Remove, rocker cover, head, barrels and then its easier and lighter to lift the bottom end out.Will it not come out as a complete unit?
I can easily obtain assistance with a lift out.
Post by: Johnwebley on October 19, 2020, 07:05:50 PM
It would have been your wallet before you started the Honda projectIf there was room for bodies & hands I can get 2 to help me. Too late for a hernia warning they found a small one when I had my last scan. I've no idea how I got it as I'm very careful when I lift anything - I don't do heavy. LolOh yes, it will come out in one lump very easily with 2 of you Ted. I assumed you would be doing it on your own and didn't want you to get a double hernia on top of your other issuesIt can be stripped whilst still in the frame Ted. Even the 400/4 engines are a heavy lump when complete. Remove, rocker cover, head, barrels and then its easier and lighter to lift the bottom end out.Will it not come out as a complete unit?
I can easily obtain assistance with a lift out.
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: hairygit on October 19, 2020, 07:11:56 PM
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 24, 2020, 01:57:50 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 24, 2020, 02:09:56 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50512676768_85c2662ec4_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jXCEY9)Cutch Cover (https://flic.kr/p/2jXCEY9) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
This is after the painting & baking in the kitchen oven - no sheep were harmed in the painting or photography process.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50523896287_abb0470c05_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jYCb98)Painted Cover (https://flic.kr/p/2jYCb98) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: SumpMagnet on October 25, 2020, 12:13:30 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 25, 2020, 07:54:06 AM
not baaaaaaaa'd at all
Love it - I guess I left myself open for that one.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 01, 2020, 11:26:20 PM
It would have been your wallet before you started the Honda projectIf there was room for bodies & hands I can get 2 to help me. Too late for a hernia warning they found a small one when I had my last scan. I've no idea how I got it as I'm very careful when I lift anything - I don't do heavy. LolOh yes, it will come out in one lump very easily with 2 of you Ted. I assumed you would be doing it on your own and didn't want you to get a double hernia on top of your other issuesIt can be stripped whilst still in the frame Ted. Even the 400/4 engines are a heavy lump when complete. Remove, rocker cover, head, barrels and then its easier and lighter to lift the bottom end out.Will it not come out as a complete unit?
I can easily obtain assistance with a lift out.
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Too close to the truth in that comment John - if I carry on at my present spending rate I will have spent more on parts than I did on buying the bike in June 2020!
Since lock down I've done the accountants / auditors trick - my eating out budget, fuel budget & holiday budget have been subsidising the bike build so it's not really costing anything - just swapping budgets with a small net saving.lol
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 04, 2020, 10:39:27 AM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50565189323_2e0cdd4003_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k3gP82)
before (https://flic.kr/p/2k3gP82) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190821526@N02/), on Flickr
This is the paint finish after stripping and rubbing down with 1200 grit. Just needs oven baking tomorrow when I can use the oven more freely if you get my drift.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50565937566_9c1ef45b97_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k3kDxL)after (https://flic.kr/p/2k3kDxL) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190821526@N02/), on Flickr
Post by: taysidedragon on November 04, 2020, 03:32:13 PM
Post by: THUNDERDOWNUNDER on November 07, 2020, 07:28:12 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 07, 2020, 10:20:42 AM
Post by: Deano400 on November 07, 2020, 10:31:34 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 07, 2020, 11:24:09 AM
Hi , have you got a picture of the underside of side cover where the electrics are ? My 75 400/4 doesn’t want to close so just need pic to see what’s the right and wrong way to wire up things . Thanks if you can .
Does this help ?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50575789322_223fd5ea68_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k4d98C)IMG_20201107_111052 (https://flic.kr/p/2k4d98C) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/190821526@N02/), on Flickr
.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 09, 2020, 12:30:44 PM
When I first started the engine after it's 12 year rest it started pretty easily this has in part led me to believe that maybe an engine strip down was not needed. (Clearly in denial here)
Since that first start up it has taken a lot of more cranking to get her to fire up - this has led me to suspect that the compressions are not that brilliant. A cold check on 25th Sept 2020 revealed that the compressions were a pretty even 90 psi on all cylinders rising to 110 psi when check some days later.
Yesterday I just could not get the engine to start so this morning I squirted some 2T oil in all four cylinders with a view to re-checking both cold and hot compressions. The first thing I noticed was that when I cranked the engine about an hour later without the plugs in place almost no oil was pushed out so it had obviously drained through the piston rings I am thinking. Another cold check then revealed 205 psi on cylinder 4 I didn't bother check any others I knew the truth already.
When I replaced the plugs the engine fired up fairly easily so I let her run until up to temperature then did a hot check on cylinder 4 - it was only 120 psi. Clearly I am loosing compression with the rings / pistons being the main culprit.
Obviously I will need to carry out an engine strip as the compressions are well below par. Just as a point in case the engine does run quite nicely in the circumstances especially considering that I have not adjusted any idle air screws.
I now intend to crack on with the strip down of the frame ASAP hopefully I will get the engine out before my operation that still has no date due in part to the effects of Covid on ICU bed availability.
Just for the craic I have recorded some engine running earlier today to keep me enthusiastic I will post a link shortly.
https://youtu.be/SWwb3LgNpIY
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 09, 2020, 12:54:20 PM
https://youtu.be/3CpAYjNHggI
Post by: smoothoperator on November 09, 2020, 05:40:44 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 09, 2020, 07:58:22 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 10, 2020, 08:28:57 PM
The sump pan had some rusty grey deposit in the bottom with an odd little pipe on the oil pick up strainer - not sure what that does though.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50587296958_0614671cbc_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k5e7X9)frame part strip down (https://flic.kr/p/2k5e7X9) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50588165167_bd8871654b_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k5iz3g)sump pan (https://flic.kr/p/2k5iz3g) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
.
.
Post by: taysidedragon on November 10, 2020, 08:35:16 PM
Part of the oil circulation system.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 10, 2020, 08:48:28 PM
If you look up into the bottom of the engine you'll see a spigot that the "funny little pipe" pushes onto.
Part of the oil circulation system.
Yeah noticed that little pipe I've no idea what it actually does it fits into the strainer.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50587354333_160fccc7be_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k5eq1n)sump strainer (https://flic.kr/p/2k5eq1n) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
.
Post by: Bryanj on November 10, 2020, 11:23:21 PM
Post by: smoothoperator on November 11, 2020, 08:38:03 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 11, 2020, 10:10:10 AM
Great progress Ted, somebody has been busy. Good luck getting the engine out.
Thanks Steve,
I have a sort of deadline as I've got the date for my operation it's on the 25 th November 2020 unless Covid affects things at the last minute as an ICU bed has to be free for me.
Cheers
Ted
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 12, 2020, 04:37:45 AM
Gearbox oil pump on end of one of the shafts
My pipe had no clips just a push fit with a pipe showing it's age with a lack of elasticity - I guess as it's under suction so no need?
I will need to replace it for sure.
Post by: taysidedragon on November 12, 2020, 11:11:55 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 12, 2020, 04:57:38 PM
Great progress Ted, somebody has been busy. Good luck getting the engine out.
Mainly due to storage considerations I've decided to leave the engine in place in the frame probably until early next year now.
Still toying with the idea of removing the cylinder head & barrels in situ but seeing NJ's build I don't want to hit head nut issues at present so might leave it as is.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 17, 2020, 10:43:47 AM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50612337853_8ab2c94989_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k7rsJH)sump with age scars (https://flic.kr/p/2k7rsJH) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50612338003_21eb4f7c98_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k7rsMi)inside sump (https://flic.kr/p/2k7rsMi) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 19, 2020, 09:34:57 AM
Pleased to find that there was no undue wear on the rocker heels and that the rocker shafts were in good condition. The visible parts of the camshaft lobes look good as well. This confirms to me the mileage of 32,600 is genuine.
Just shows how well they were engineered I guess - back in the 1960's BL A series rocker gear was always well worn even at fairly low mileages.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50619408008_b514a396ba_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k84GrW)camshaft cover (https://flic.kr/p/2k84GrW) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 21, 2020, 11:59:03 PM
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50630901402_8eab74154e_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k95B2U)cleaned camshaft cover (https://flic.kr/p/2k95B2U) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50630803256_96451f47b1_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2k956RJ)painted cam cover (https://flic.kr/p/2k956RJ) by Teddy Bagshaw (https://www.flickr.com/photos/186528626@N08/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 26, 2020, 07:02:41 AM
Post by: hairygit on November 26, 2020, 07:21:02 AM
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
Post by: Bryanj on November 26, 2020, 07:22:30 AM
Post by: Nurse Julie on November 26, 2020, 09:06:06 AM
Post by: Johnwebley on November 26, 2020, 10:13:58 AM
Keep in touch.
We will not tell you all the medical jokes yet.
We don't want to burst your stitches
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: K2-K6 on November 26, 2020, 10:18:58 AM
Although I have to point out that we've no manuals for kidneys, or recommended oil viscosity ;D
Post by: taysidedragon on November 26, 2020, 10:22:06 AM
Post by: smoothoperator on November 26, 2020, 03:56:02 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 27, 2020, 08:45:48 AM
Post by: philward on November 27, 2020, 03:38:19 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 06, 2020, 12:34:59 PM
Speedy recovery Ted - you'll soon be back to the project
Thanks I'm back home now clips coming out tomorrow life is starting to return to normal.
I have had verbal death threats from Wendy that if I as much as linger near the bike stand before March 2021 I'm as good as dead.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 20, 2021, 10:21:53 AM
Post by: Nurse Julie on January 20, 2021, 10:35:28 AM
Here is my restoration update - there is no restoration update since November 24th 2020. March 1st 2021 still seems light year away!Thinking time is the most important part of a restoration Ted. If you're anything like me, I can spend 6 weeks thinking about doing something, that in the end turns out to be less than a 5 minute job when I eventually get around to it😁😁😁😁
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on January 20, 2021, 10:56:09 AM
Post by: Dave on January 20, 2021, 11:05:15 AM
> about doing something, that in the end turns out to be less than a 5 minute job
snap!
Post by: taysidedragon on January 20, 2021, 12:06:46 PM
Here is my restoration update - there is no restoration update since November 24th 2020. March 1st 2021 still seems light year away!Thinking time is the most important part of a restoration Ted. If you're anything like me, I can spend 6 weeks thinking about doing something, that in the end turns out to be less than a 5 minute job when I eventually get around to it😁😁😁😁
It's never a 5 minute job when I do it! 😂😂😂
Post by: Moorey on January 20, 2021, 12:20:16 PM
Speedy recovery Ted - you'll soon be back to the project
Thanks I'm back home now clips coming out tomorrow life is starting to return to normal.
I have had verbal death threats from Wendy that if I as much as linger near the bike stand before March 2021 I'm as good as dead.
Great you are on the mend. Remember a verbal death threat never hurt anyone. :)
Post by: Johnwebley on January 20, 2021, 01:21:35 PM
Time for looking and planning
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: smoothoperator on January 20, 2021, 03:22:59 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 20, 2021, 05:51:36 PM
Presently costing ceiling insulation in 50 mm Kingspan type material. Then its the multi layered insulation on the double door.
Dehumidifier is doing it's stuff during the presently humid & rainy weather.
Entry is only by the side door via my office annexe at present.
As our large upright garage fridge plays up when the ambient temperature drops below 50 F I can justify the cost as it will make the fridge work all winter Wendy!
I'm easing my way into the garage by stealth. lol
Post by: Trigger on January 20, 2021, 08:09:00 PM
> Thinking time is the most important part of a restoration...I can spend 6 weeks thinking
> about doing something, that in the end turns out to be less than a 5 minute job
snap!
If i charged 6 weeks labour for a 5 minute job, my customers would be in for a shock :o
Post by: taysidedragon on January 21, 2021, 01:09:33 AM
Thanks for the various ideas .....Presently draught proofing the garage eaves with glass wool type insulation. Nice brush seals for the top of the up & over door.
Presently costing ceiling insulation in 50 mm Kingspan type material. Then its the multi layered insulation on the double door.
Dehumidifier is doing it's stuff during the presently humid & rainy weather.
Entry is only by the side door via my office annexe at present.
As our large upright garage fridge plays up when the ambient temperature drops below 50 F I can justify the cost as it will make the fridge work all winter Wendy!
I'm easing my way into the garage by stealth. lol
I noticed that Kingspan is one of the companies threatened with legal action for falsifying tests on fireproof cladding and other materials. May not be the best stuff to use right now.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 21, 2021, 09:41:38 AM
Thanks for the various ideas .....Presently draught proofing the garage eaves with glass wool type insulation. Nice brush seals for the top of the up & over door.
Presently costing ceiling insulation in 50 mm Kingspan type material. Then its the multi layered insulation on the double door.
Dehumidifier is doing it's stuff during the presently humid & rainy weather.
Entry is only by the side door via my office annexe at present.
As our large upright garage fridge plays up when the ambient temperature drops below 50 F I can justify the cost as it will make the fridge work all winter Wendy!
I'm easing my way into the garage by stealth. lol
I noticed that Kingspan is one of the companies threatened with legal action for falsifying tests on fireproof cladding and other materials. May not be the best stuff to use right now.
I have used Celotex previously as it was cheaper locally at the time.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 03, 2021, 01:10:37 PM
I had wories about super tight bolts etc so began loosening in sequence as per my manual - to my surprise they have all come undone without any issues. I haven't looked up the normal torque settings but most of them were around 10-15 lb ft maximum some were almost finger tight it was that easy.
As I have no plans so far to split the engine case just remove the head & cylinder bores am wondering if it's best to tie up the cam chain and replace it when rebuilding as I am fearful that if I take the cam chain off completely now feeding in a new one will be impossible.
This is all a bit unknown as I might have to split the casing to replace the drive chain eventually anyway. Any advice is welcome.
Post by: K2-K6 on February 03, 2021, 01:19:21 PM
It's very low risk if you drop the chain inside, just don't rotate the crankshaft until you've fished it out again.
Retiming is easy on these, with the top off the rockers are removed making no interference with valves and pistons possible. You can rotate the crank and camshaft till the cows come home to check you've got it set right. Only then do you put the rockers in their cover back on to "activate" the valves.
Worthwhile checking with the cam cover off for chain wear though. Give it a lift at higher most point to see if the links lift away from the sprocket. It should have very little slack at that point.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 03, 2021, 02:34:29 PM
As you suspect, chain is endless so needing to split cases to slide a new one onto crank is unavoidable.
It's very low risk if you drop the chain inside, just don't rotate the crankshaft until you've fished it out again.
Retiming is easy on these, with the top off the rockers are removed making no interference with valves and pistons possible. You can rotate the crank and camshaft till the cows come home to check you've got it set right. Only then do you put the rockers in their cover back on to "activate" the valves.
Worthwhile checking with the cam cover off for chain wear though. Give it a lift at higher most point to see if the links lift away from the sprocket. It should have very little slack at that point.
My bike purchase came with a new timing chain supplied but it has a link so was thinking I could remove a link on the old chain then feed it through attaching the new chain ?
Maybee folk are against a split chain ?
Post by: taysidedragon on February 03, 2021, 03:30:21 PM
If the primary chain has never been changed it probably needs doing now.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 03, 2021, 03:54:12 PM
Lots of people use the split chain for convenience. The disadvantages are not being as secure as an endless chain and not able to check the cam chain tensioner operation.
If the primary chain has never been changed it probably needs doing now.
It's done around 32k miles I'm guessing the drive chain is original.
Don't understand why checking the cam chain tensioner operation is an issue with a split chain ?
Post by: K2-K6 on February 03, 2021, 04:51:45 PM
I'm fine with hand peening to join things like final drive and mtb chains etc with no reliability problems. But, possibly irrationally, I still would choose continuous for cam chains as failure in any significant way will just make you weep with the distruction.
Depends also how you look at the task of splitting to replace. I feel that's easier to contemplate than the thought of distruction :) and would thoroughly clean the outside first if you are not going for a complete strip. It's really just taking the bottom case off and undoing the rods, lift out crank and swap chains, then torque it back together.
At those miles the primary will usually need replacement too, with the two contributing to how these engines sound when running well more than most components.
I suppose I don't look at changing them whole as a chore, more that I feel it's nice to work on them.
Julie's thread on rebuilding gives a very good look at making sure the tensioner works correctly if you've not already seen it.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 03, 2021, 05:03:23 PM
Some of the older (than this) engines routinely use a joined chain, although I believe with a specific tool to set them. Illustrative of potential if they're ok.
I'm fine with hand peening to join things like final drive and mtb chains etc with no reliability problems. But, possibly irrationally, I still would choose continuous for cam chains as failure in any significant way will just make you weep with the distruction.
Depends also how you look at the task of splitting to replace. I feel that's easier to contemplate than the thought of distruction :) and would thoroughly clean the outside first if you are not going for a complete strip. It's really just taking the bottom case off and undoing the rods, lift out crank and swap chains, then torque it back together.
At those miles the primary will usually need replacement too, with the two contributing to how these engines sound when running well more than most components.
I suppose I don't look at changing them whole as a chore, more that I feel it's nice to work on them.
Julie's thread on rebuilding gives a very good look at making sure the tensioner works correctly if you've not already seen it.
tbh I share worries about a chain with a split link so realistically I will split the casing and change both chains.
At present the cylinder head does not want to lift off as the cyliner block is lifting instead.
What's the best way to seperate the head from the block without damaging any fins ?
Post by: smoothoperator on February 03, 2021, 05:12:01 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 03, 2021, 05:35:36 PM
Hi Ted, glad to hear your'e back on the bike! If you do choose to join the chain, have a look at mine to see how it came out. Having split my engine I can see the cases haven't been split before but the cam chain has been replaced. The image shows how badly it was done. My tensioner arm is also completely seized, however I think your engine is in better condition especially so if you were able to adjust the tension or didn't have a rattle in the first place.
Not the best riveting Iv'e seen did you fit a split link or endless replacement?
Post by: smoothoperator on February 03, 2021, 05:44:16 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on February 03, 2021, 05:47:52 PM
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 03, 2021, 06:11:19 PM
The mechanics locally fit the cam chain and rivet it to endless
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
So clearly they are not a fan of the split link arrangement - might be clearance worries.
Post by: Johnwebley on February 03, 2021, 06:17:53 PM
Maybe worried the clip will become loose and fall off.
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: K2-K6 on February 03, 2021, 06:39:57 PM
You can try (if you've got something like the big flat tire levers) to carefully push that in to the root of the fins right by the gasket surface at each end, and gently twist them, not try to lever. It at least assessess (is that correct with more ss's than Mississippi? ) if it's going to move or be more reluctant.
Once the gasket seal starts to come apart they are usually ok. It's not to use much force but more gentle encouragement at the right location, if that makes sense.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 04, 2021, 10:07:11 AM
"What's the best way to seperate the head from the block without damaging any fins ?"
You can try (if you've got something like the big flat tire levers) to carefully push that in to the root of the fins right by the gasket surface at each end, and gently twist them, not try to lever. It at least assessess (is that correct with more ss's than Mississippi? ) if it's going to move or be more reluctant.
Once the gasket seal starts to come apart they are usually ok. It's not to use much force but more gentle encouragement at the right location, if that makes sense.
The levers sound potentially risky though clearly it has worked for you.
I'm currently in deep thought mode for my next move.
Post by: K2-K6 on February 04, 2021, 10:18:31 AM
Hopefully you'll not need them if they come apart. The head gasket (in description of sticking in other thread) will hold quite well if assembly is correctly done and surfaces degreased as Honda usually placed strategically important "tacky" areas near to oil transmission routes in getting non leaking assembly. It's not massively strong, but is designed to have a sealing integrity as you describe.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 04, 2021, 01:23:05 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50908271662_27b50132b5_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyAcxL)400-4 cylinder head (https://flic.kr/p/2kyAcxL) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50908145196_75fdf07e50_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kyzxXj)old head gasket (https://flic.kr/p/2kyzxXj) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Thanks smoothoperator for the tip - I used a plastic wedge as used by double glazing fitters and gently tapped it int on outer corner. Fed plenty of WD40 into the gap - in a series of tapping the wedge with a rubber mallett and removing it then tapping the head all round it finally let go!
The cylinder head has been off before as there are small witness marks from a chisel or screw driver on both sides. So far looking good - the head gasket is a black material - no sign of blowing anywhere.
I suspect that the exhuast manifold head connections have been leaking with the blow by building up a carbon deposit causing an external bond between head & cylinders.
The engine has clearly been running rich either beforehand or since I had it running.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 04, 2021, 07:55:41 PM
All of the pistons look like this they have Honda brand on the skirts, some carbon between the first & second ring just a light brown coloration above the oil control ring. Bore remarkably wear / step free.
Any observations / comments welcome.
Post by: Nurse Julie on February 04, 2021, 08:00:05 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 04, 2021, 08:08:41 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on February 04, 2021, 08:19:57 PM
Head gasket all seems to have been running with no leaks, indicating competent last intervention from whom so ever.
As you already recognize, it's been running "generously" jetted with that colour and carbon. For some time too, as you can see the "correct" colour of exhaust valves as undercoat !! with a fair thickness of carbon on top of that.
If the rest of the components follow suit, then it seems like you've a decent one.
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 05, 2021, 10:37:42 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 06, 2021, 11:59:17 AM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913807503_f398c64b77_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kz5zai)engine out on a NJ engine mount (https://flic.kr/p/2kz5zai) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
My brother helped me lift out the engine today its standing on one of NJ's engine stands with an Aldi centre Isle wheeled board loaned from brother.
It came out easily - landed on some Kingspan then upended to attach to engine stand - simples!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 06, 2021, 12:09:21 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 07, 2021, 01:21:19 PM
Back wheel removed without any issues likewise rear shock absorbers & rear swing arm all made relatively effortless by using my impact driver on the large nuts.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 07, 2021, 08:18:27 PM
Both telescopic fork legs removed together with top & bottom yokes plus searching for lost ball bearing that went everywhere - so far I think I have recovered 34 in total!
My Haynes manual reads 37 off - odd total. They will need replacing anyway due to general rusting, likewise the bearing cups etc.
Update I have now found 36 of the ball bearings !
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 08, 2021, 09:54:41 AM
No key for the steering lock so old one drilled out (followed guide on a previous post here to choose the hole position) - kept the spring as not sure my new lock has one or not.
Hardest job today was removing the brake stopper/stay pivot bolt from the rear swing arm. The inside nut was well rounded so had to cut the nut off with junior hack saw. If they are readily available I will get a new one as it's a sholdered bolt with a narrow top head.
Only item left on the frame now is a wire hook thing near the steering clumn on the rhs- I guess its a wiring /cable run retaining hook of some sort .
Rear swing arm bearings nice and free - move out by hand pressure so they will be pushed out to check for wear. I suspect they have been replaced at some time as they are too clean & well greased.
Next is thinking time to decide if I'm sending the frame for powder coating or if I'm going to flat it down & rattle can paint it. I have decided I do not want black - thinking of a midnight blue instead.
I'm back inside as it's pretty cold in my garage today - just made a Kidney Madras sealed meat first then sauce out of a jar - its' in the oven for tonight as Wendy has been called into work again for Covid Vaccine administration work.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 10, 2021, 03:02:16 PM
As I started to drill it out it rotated freely screwing all the way down instead, I reversed the drill action - it almost came right out.
Last few turns done with the aid of a hammered in allen key and out it came.
Not very exciting I know but in the grand scheme of things just wanted to share my good luck.
Post by: Nurse Julie on February 10, 2021, 04:53:25 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 11, 2021, 02:13:04 PM
As for your frame, I have just sent the z400 frame to a company in Windsor called Microblast (they advertise in Classic Burke, sorry Bike 🙂). They have quoted me £300+vat to blast and powder coat the frame, swing arm, main and side stand, yokes, headlight bowl and 31 yes, 31, brackets (Kawasaki knew how to make a bike heavy!). Turnaround time is 10days. I'll let you know about the quality when I get it all back. The price includes some parts that are satin finish.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 12, 2021, 07:44:19 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 13, 2021, 09:21:30 PM
Seriously thinking of getting the frame bead blasted to get the paint off !
Post by: Bryanj on February 16, 2021, 02:13:27 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 16, 2021, 09:08:22 AM
Red primer, that aint Honda
Interesting to know - its obviously had the frame painted before the black paint was quite thick I suspect it was smooth hammerite. Looks like red oxide primer has been applied when repainted.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 19, 2021, 09:15:17 PM
I visited Langley Coating a firm just a few mies away I took my frame to have it shot blasted only or possibly primered to stop it rusting when I get it home. After speaking to John the Motorcycle Man I decided to get it powder coated as they had the exact colour I wanted - far from original Honda it's going to be Sapphire Blue Gloss RAL5003.
I plan to paint some of the smaller parts myself in Rust-Oleum Gloss as I'm not too fussed about shading differences. They are pretty busy so it's likely to be a 14 day turn round if I can get the stand to them on Monday.
The idea of Gold alloy wheels gets more attractive every day with some mean tank & side panel custom graphics - it must be the red wine has blurred my thinking tonight.
Post by: K2-K6 on February 19, 2021, 09:31:31 PM
Went to look at a local powder coater recently as son is working on bicycles, they showed me some really nice work and finishes and not what I'd seen in the past.
Blue and gold always look good paired.
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on February 19, 2021, 10:45:46 PM
I used to be undecided but now I'm not so sure. lol Talk about "U" turns.As in Kirk Langley?? Let me know how you go on as looking for someone local for my frame etc. What are they quoting for the work if you don't mind sharing that?
I visited Langley Coating a firm just a few mies away I took my frame to have it shot blasted only or possibly primered to stop it rusting when I get it home. After speaking to John the Motorcycle Man I decided to get it powder coated as they had the exact colour I wanted - far from original Honda it's going to be Sapphire Blue Gloss RAL5003.
I plan to paint some of the smaller parts myself in Rust-Oleum Gloss as I'm not too fussed about shading differences. They are pretty busy so it's likely to be a 14 day turn round if I can get the stand to them on Monday.
The idea of Gold alloy wheels gets more attractive every day with some mean tank & side panel custom graphics - it must the red wine has blurred my thinking tonight.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 20, 2021, 08:45:27 AM
I used to be undecided but now I'm not so sure. lol Talk about "U" turns.As in Kirk Langley?? Let me know how you go on as looking for someone local for my frame etc. What are they quoting for the work if you don't mind sharing that?
I visited Langley Coating a firm just a few mies away I took my frame to have it shot blasted only or possibly primered to stop it rusting when I get it home. After speaking to John the Motorcycle Man I decided to get it powder coated as they had the exact colour I wanted - far from original Honda it's going to be Sapphire Blue Gloss RAL5003.
I plan to paint some of the smaller parts myself in Rust-Oleum Gloss as I'm not too fussed about shading differences. They are pretty busy so it's likely to be a 14 day turn round if I can get the stand to them on Monday.
The idea of Gold alloy wheels gets more attractive every day with some mean tank & side panel custom graphics - it must the red wine has blurred my thinking tonight.
Yes they have a website with some bike frames pictured - its a spin off from Langley Gates I think. I will post a photo when it comes back home!
I will PM you when I have paid at the moment its not a fully firm - estimated price looks like £160 plus VAT at present.
https://www.langleycoatings.co.uk/
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on February 20, 2021, 09:25:02 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 02, 2021, 04:30:55 PM
Collected the frame this afternoon - looks brilliant so far I have to say.
If it's still as good when it's unwrapped I will be well pleased.
It's clearly not a Honda colour but its Sappire Blue Gloss RAL 5003 as I specified.
Post by: taysidedragon on March 02, 2021, 04:47:13 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 02, 2021, 09:03:21 PM
That's a nice colour. 😁👍
Thanks that will go well with the idea I have for gold wheel rims. It will also focus my thinking for the tank & side panels methinks mine are not Honda colours I like the dark blue.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 03, 2021, 06:16:28 PM
Having examined the frame my only gripe is they have made the stamped in frame number completely illegible - it's a niggle because I was asked if I wanted it masking off so the original frame area would show!
I had removed the rivetted on plate so its not the end of the world. Too cold again here to start doing any rebuilding.
Post by: philward on March 04, 2021, 10:32:09 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on March 04, 2021, 09:10:51 PM
I spent today giving the wheels a final polish and cleaning/de-rusting the discs prior to fitting.
I'm going to start reassembly tomorrow.
Keep your progress photos coming, gold wheels always look good👍.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 05, 2021, 07:34:11 AM
I wouldn't be happy about those 2 marks on the L/H footrest hanger.The marks on the footrest hangar are an odd reflection from where the steel frame profile changes there is no physical mark. I agree the coating thickness is certainly not thin. At £155 incl VAT I think it was good value. I expect that I will need to probably clean out some of the bolt holes for a free fit but threaded sections appear good. Presumably a little abrasive action with some wet & dry using a circular profile dowel will not be too difficult - tbh had I painted it myself I might face similar issues.
Got to be honest Ted and say the paint looks a little thick, around the lower engine hanger bolt hole it looks like they didn't mask those off and it's possible the bolt won't go through now.
Hope I don't sound too defensive - I mostly accept your comments.
PS
What I have discovered on closer examination is that the rear offside footpeg frame bracket has a bit of a bend in it - tbh had I noticed it beforhand I would hve applied some heat to straighten it. As I will never have a passenger anyways it's not the end of the world but shows the importance of a thorough inspection beforehand - now I think about it the rear footpeg was at an odd angle when folded back - I dismissed it as wear in the bolt/spring mechanism.
Post by: smoothoperator on March 05, 2021, 09:58:58 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 05, 2021, 10:47:33 AM
Great progress Ted, looking really good. Now you get to start putting it all back together. I'm just starting to get the paint off mine so it's inspiring to see what lies ahead.
Aside from fitting the steering shaft I was going to leave the frame alone until the engine has been further inspected. Should I need a rebore or any other major work I can then fall back on frame assembly to fill in any waiting time. I need to plan my work space out better as I was going to have my engine on the bike lift and put the frame at the end my garage. I might have to reclaim my work bench behind our car in the garage for engine work.
Main lesson I have learnt so far is to check your frame fully before painting - see my post about the bent rear foot peg bracket. Not sure yet whether to live with it or sort it now.
Still very cold here just 6 deg C.
Post by: Bryanj on March 05, 2021, 10:53:11 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 05, 2021, 11:15:49 AM
First thing to fit is the rear brae pedal pivot!!
Okay is there a reason for this ?
Post by: Bryanj on March 05, 2021, 11:18:53 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 05, 2021, 11:28:10 AM
Yup, you cant get it in after you fit the swingarm!!
Thanks for that I didn't know. Still dealing mentally with the bent rear foot peg bracket!
Post by: Bryanj on March 05, 2021, 11:38:00 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 05, 2021, 06:14:24 PM
Its the thing you discover just before you throw something at the wall in frustation!!
As you can imagine I'm well annoyed I didn't spot it beforehand - the colour blue makes it obvious!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 12, 2021, 06:14:48 PM
This is my Stage 1 inside clean of the lower crank case using initially some engine degreaser, followed by petrol done outside when it was warmer last week. The majority of the paint has been removed just need to fettle it up a bit where the stripper / and or me has missed it.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51111852823_e557e15524.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSzB8M)Adjust Bolt Kit (https://flic.kr/p/2kSzB8M) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51111853583_152cfc2055_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kSzBmT)ower casing first clean (https://flic.kr/p/2kSzBmT) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 26, 2021, 10:34:42 AM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51139738443_3582f112e3_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kV3wyk)surface rust (https://flic.kr/p/2kV3wyk) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Below are two cleaned items courtesy of Evaporust.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51139635396_d40dc36a0d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kV2ZVE)Evaporusted (https://flic.kr/p/2kV2ZVE) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 26, 2021, 01:41:49 PM
I have no idea why my previous attempts failed !!
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51139818621_3db353badd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kV3WoH)parts 250 & 249 (https://flic.kr/p/2kV3WoH) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 26, 2021, 05:18:51 PM
We've just had a weekend break at Eye Kettleby for a relaxed view of the wind & lashing rain - great timing again - now I remember why we used to go abroad.
If the forecast is true a heatwave is on it's way - I just need to get my finger out and Plastigauge the big ends so I can start putting the engine back together soon. I will be glad to see the crankcase halves bolted back together - hopefully all buttoned up by the end of June.
Post by: Laverda Dave on May 27, 2021, 08:50:30 AM
Maybe do some light jobs whilst you recover, the sort of jobs that creep up on you as you are putting the bike back together like cleaning the wiring loom (stick it in the dishwasher, works a treat) and cleaning anything plastic and rubber like the half rear guard, all the grommets etc. All easy sitting at the table stuff and nice to get out of the way before assembly begins.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 27, 2021, 02:55:00 PM
At least you are making progress Ted.
Maybe do some light jobs whilst you recover, the sort of jobs that creep up on you as you are putting the bike back together like cleaning the wiring loom (stick it in the dishwasher, works a treat) and cleaning anything plastic and rubber like the half rear guard, all the grommets etc. All easy sitting at the table stuff and nice to get out of the way before assembly begins.
Good idea Dave - I have started with clearing the bike lift of all tools put back where they should be then I'm going to clean the half rear guard.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 31, 2021, 12:56:19 PM
Primary drive rubbers fitted to centre of unit with a cable tie holding them in position.
All pushed easily into place a slight tightening of the cable tie - then released cable tie and last few mm pushed in easily by hand!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51215245123_7a10ef1c34_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2Hw4D)RH Crank Seal (https://flic.kr/p/2m2Hw4D) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51214314437_1f0077b6ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2CKpk)LD Crank Seal (https://flic.kr/p/2m2CKpk) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
. I know too much lube everywhere!
Primary Drive Hub not yet in place.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51215030361_098ff2b559_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m2GqdR)Chains in place (https://flic.kr/p/2m2GqdR) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Nurse Julie on May 31, 2021, 04:53:30 PM
Err Ted, I think you may have gone overboard with the Plastigauge mate ;D ;D ;D ;DI think it's Bearing Guard Ken 😁😁😁
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 31, 2021, 05:07:48 PM
Err Ted, I think you may have gone overboard with the Plastigauge mate ;D ;D ;D ;D
Nice one as you know it's the Red Line Assembly lube it's very runny as you can see - I will have to mop it up before I put the Hinda Bond on sparingly!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 31, 2021, 06:34:23 PM
Used some Loctite on the cam chain tensioner bolts as the threads seemed less than perfect - they were not stripped but have clearly been out before- shame they don't use a locking tab on the bolts or a star washer.
Primary drive hub/unit is in place on the chain - I plan to fit the bottom case without Hondabond probably tomorrow as a dry run to see if there are any issues in putting in the drive shaft or anything falling off as you do it!
I'm thinking of getting a friend to help me with the fastening up of the crankcase - especially the main 10 crankcase bolts - that way I can ensure the primary drive shaft is in the right place. He is also 50 years younger with some modern equipment to speed things up with his fancy tools.
Post by: smoothoperator on May 31, 2021, 07:43:20 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 05, 2021, 04:13:07 PM
Now that the slight high spot / bind on No: 2 conrod has been sorted I am awaiting a second opinion from my BiL tomorrow. On re-assembly I will try to use less Hondabond - I found it difficult to spread thinly due to its viscosity but NJ has given me a tip on the dark art of thin film application.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51225852352_625ebc117a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2m3DTdU)drainpipe camchain holder (https://flic.kr/p/2m3DTdU) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 05, 2021, 09:23:33 PM
I use the end of my finger tip and just dab it on Ted.
First time around I put on what I thought was a thin layer straight out of the tube onto the crakkcase in 1" blobs then with my surgical gloves tried to make it spread along the mating surfaces then repeat with another 1" blob - good coverage but it was difficult to persuade it to go on thinly. I found it impossible to squeeze out of the end of the nozzle as there was no key to wind the tube up - I ended up cutting the nozzle off a bit further up just to get it out of the tube. It was much thicker than your normal silicone sealant and very viscous too. When I dismantled it there was far too much Hondabond on the inside edges for my liking. In an odd way having to take it apart again has had unforseen benefits. Shame its not easier to spread - next time I will squeeze it onto my finger tip then try and smear it on as thin as possible. I did wonder if the tube was old stock.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 11, 2021, 03:01:37 PM
Waiting to get into the right frame of mind before I sort this. As it was nice yesterday went fishing instead. Caught naff all clearly I'm on a downward roll at the moment. lol
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 12, 2021, 03:10:07 PM
Checked the two bolts for the cam chain horseshoe just the one thread is iffy its the right hand one so plan to get it Helicoiled next week.
If they are available I will probably get a couple of new bolts or run a die down them.
Post by: Bryanj on June 12, 2021, 06:57:11 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 13, 2021, 01:06:27 PM
Standard m6 ht setscrew willdo the job
Forgive my ignorance but is a standard m6 ht set screw just the one thread type or is it automatically coarse due to being relatively small?
I find it odd that there is not a washer of any kind used on them.
Post by: Bryanj on June 13, 2021, 01:50:38 PM
A washer is not needed in every case, thet are there to even the load pressure. In this case i think Hondaused threadlock on the bolts but even then ihave seen them back out, usualy when the pivot is siezed which could put excess vibration into the bolts.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 21, 2021, 03:43:45 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 30, 2021, 12:29:52 PM
Cost me £30 for all 27 bolts & a coupe of clips - other platers seemed to have a £45 minimum charge locally.
Spent an hour or so tinkering with one of my spare engines (Pops old unit) as it was leaking oil from the sump area. Fitted a spare sump with a new gasket and all is now leak free -oil down the bores to start the freeing up process. I will try turning the engine upside down for a few minutes soon to try get some nice clean oil around the camshaft in the hope of helping preserve the status quo so as to speak as it will be 2022 before I strip it down fully.
Wendy is starting to think I have no life outside my 400/4,computer & garage. I have no idea where she is coming from tee hee.
Post by: taysidedragon on June 30, 2021, 03:35:09 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 30, 2021, 05:08:13 PM
Instead of turning the engine upside down, just remove the tappet covers and squirt the oil onto the cam through the openings.
Not sure that would be as effective although it's what I did before I fired up my bike for the first time after 12 yrs.
Post by: Johnwebley on June 30, 2021, 05:19:07 PM
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 30, 2021, 06:36:21 PM
Take the plugs out and spin it on starter until the oil pressure light goes out.
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Great idea but as the engine is out it would mean rigging up an oil light - not that it's that much work to wire one up temporarily!
Post by: haynes66 on June 30, 2021, 06:47:50 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 30, 2021, 11:50:16 PM
sent you a pm ted
OK thanks I have replied - as you will see its effectively a positive response.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 13, 2021, 08:05:06 PM
The assembly lube is much thinner than I expected - I will need to mop up a bit.
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51309443371_e4fa5e38bd_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mb3iVn)too much assembly lube lol (https://flic.kr/p/2mb3iVn) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Sesman on July 14, 2021, 08:32:23 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 14, 2021, 08:39:10 PM
Is the crankshaft the right way round. The primary chain appears to be askew?
It's just the way the chain has laid to one side when the primary gear is not in place.
I could be wrong but I don't think the cam chain would sit central as it does if it was the other way round.
Post by: Sesman on July 14, 2021, 08:57:55 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on July 14, 2021, 09:14:26 PM
[attachimg=1]
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 15, 2021, 03:21:12 AM
It might sound daft but I mark the upper crank case with a number 1 & 4 at the ends on the outside of the case lips so in my head I know I am numbering the cylinders correctly when the upper crank case is inverted.
I've contacted DS - they are posting all but a few parts out to me (including the tensioner clips) to arrive on Friday with the remainder being sent at a later date. I was slightly annoyed that the wanted an extra £3.54 postage to split the order. A bit mean spirited I thought as I have spent around £1100 with them in the last 10 months - business is business I guess.
Post by: Sesman on July 15, 2021, 06:10:15 AM
Post by: Sesman on July 15, 2021, 06:41:18 AM
Post by: Sesman on July 15, 2021, 07:00:03 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 15, 2021, 10:34:23 AM
Out interest, can you recommend an assembly lube. I normally use graphogen, but I’ve just finished the tube. That red stuff looks good?
It's Red Line Synthetic assembly lube 12oz bottle cost about £20 last year on e-bay. If I was being critical it's a bit thinner than I imagined it would be.
Enough to last me a lifetime!
Post by: smoothoperator on July 15, 2021, 10:56:34 AM
I've contacted DS - they are posting all but a few parts out to me (including the tensioner clips) to arrive on Friday with the remainder being sent at a later date. I was slightly annoyed that the wanted an extra £3.54 postage to split the order. A bit mean spirited I thought as I have spent around £1100 with them in the last 10 months - business is business I guess.
Probably depends on who you get to talk to. I made an order on Friday and then added an inlet valve on Monday which was offered free of postage if the other parts were already picked. First package arrived Tuesday and the valve arrived with free post yesterday. Now I've concluded I need 2 tensioner dampers, doh.
Build looking great Ted, good luck with the rest of the engine build.
Post by: Sesman on July 15, 2021, 04:19:35 PM
Post by: 4wDaz on July 15, 2021, 06:26:41 PM
Out interest, can you recommend an assembly lube. I normally use graphogen, but I’ve just finished the tube. That red stuff looks good?I use this https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Clevite+Bearing+Guard+ (https://www.jdmgarageuk.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=Clevite+Bearing+Guard+)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 16, 2021, 10:10:54 AM
In the photo the underside has been painted just about to paint the top side.
For the environmentalists note the re-purposed bog roll tubes & recyclable spray booth.
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51314728531_04cae4f1f1_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mbvp1P)steering stem (https://flic.kr/p/2mbvp1P) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 19, 2021, 09:24:11 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51323085539_104be3fbe5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mcfega)ready for assembly (https://flic.kr/p/2mcfega) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51321629372_7cbd33f0c4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mc7LoQ)fastnened up again (https://flic.kr/p/2mc7LoQ) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: philward on July 19, 2021, 10:15:25 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on July 20, 2021, 11:25:27 AM
Top job Ted
Thanks Phil but I've had to split the crankcase halves this morning as the lateral travel on the mainshaft is worrying me (see my other post) all was correctly assembled but I need to address the movement issue that I have now measured as 1.016 mm of what is effectively end float between the bearings.
Post by: philward on July 20, 2021, 11:58:43 AM
Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
Post by: Sesman on July 20, 2021, 01:10:56 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 09, 2021, 05:49:50 PM
I have been doing some frame work again.
Front forks in position & fitted front brake caliper & DS mudguard. The mudguard went in okay will not really know if it's skewiff until I fit the front wheel.
As the steering is tilted to one side and the frame is not completely level on the bike stand base any out of kilter looks are hopefully just the camera angles
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51367501961_8215beda68_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mgaSHx)mudguard 1 (1) (https://flic.kr/p/2mgaSHx) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51368512105_24383c7f22_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mgg3ZP)mudguard 1 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2mgg3ZP) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Plus rear forks & stand fitted last week with nice Brass bearings from NJ.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51367544761_931ac01260_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mgb6rt)rear forks (https://flic.kr/p/2mgb6rt) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 16, 2021, 12:12:38 PM
Groundhog Day 1 - sticking conrod so seperated them again.
Groundhog Day 2 - gearshaft endfloat so seperated them again.
After a fitful night sleep dreaming about a potential groundhog day 3 on the crankcase halves assembly today I went for it and assembled the cases again.
I ensured there was some Hondabond on the places where the gearbox bearings sit in the casings - ensured bearings were pushed inwards from the outside to reduce excess movement.
All bolted together like a well practiced routine - everything is hunk dorey so then came to fitting the primary gear shaft - never had any issues previously until this time when the shaft did not want to pass into the primary gear hub centre. (I'm starting to think - the new primary bearing is just making everything a bit tighter fit)
After much sweating and making no progress I decided to try to rotate the crank a little to ensure the primary chain was seated nicely on the crank end. Then as if it was all a bad dream it slotted in nicely. Spacer - second new bearing pushed in place - end circlip - end spacer & gear all fitted.
The only real casualty of my previous failures is the nice paint finish on the crankcase halves has been removed in paces when taking off the Hondabond with thinners.
I will do some masking up and get the cases re-painted before I fit the casing unit into the frame.
I will sleep soundly tonight lol
Post by: taysidedragon on August 16, 2021, 03:16:32 PM
Post by: Sesman on August 16, 2021, 06:26:35 PM
Post by: philward on August 17, 2021, 10:55:08 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 19, 2021, 02:26:46 PM
Fitted innermost circlip on the bench then worked my way outwards fitting number 2 & 3 pistons so that the second clip could be accessed from the ends. Then lastly fitted numbers 1 & 4 all have the letters "IN" facing the inlet side of the engine.
Finally covered up the top of the engine to keep out dust etc finally placing an inverted cardboard box in place ready for Monday when my brother will help me fit it into the frame.
Just noticed a small run in the engine paint I'll get that sorted next - turned out to be an oil drip!.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51387518187_cf3f559f53_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mhWsQT)pistons fitted to rods (https://flic.kr/p/2mhWsQT) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51388278441_c2e81ebaea_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mi1mQH)wrapped ready for fitting in frame (https://flic.kr/p/2mi1mQH) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: philward on August 19, 2021, 05:19:17 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 19, 2021, 05:30:27 PM
Progressing well Ted - cant wait to see the finished bikeThanks Phil I'm planning to get the cylinder block fitted early next week then I'll start stripping down the cylinder head.
I'm thinking all I need to do before I fit the block is fit the bottom gasket, cylinder O rings, block dowels then feed the pistons into the bores.
Not sure until I check the manual etc if there are any O rings or Doughty washer at this stage -am hoping they are between the head & the top of the block.
Post by: smoothoperator on August 19, 2021, 06:23:41 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 19, 2021, 06:31:32 PM
Really making progress now Ted, well done. 3rd time lucky with putting the cases together, guess the end float problem has gone away now or you've decided that it is normal. Only dowty washers I am aware of are 2 that go on 2 of the head bolts, I've bought some but they look too small on the outside diameter, I'll have to check.
At the moment the end float has gone - as the bike is used the Hondabond might not hold everything as it is but I'm happy to proceed.
So no Doughty washers between the cylinder block & crankcase - keep me up to speed when you find the right washers as mine are a mess.
(I have a spare engine for a reason.lol)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 23, 2021, 11:24:30 AM
Not much thread to work with on the front bolts so might have to select thinner washers - at present there is a spring washer plus a flat washer - I'll check if both need to be there in the parts manual.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51396883281_adc7ae7b2d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2miLsL2)engine in frame (https://flic.kr/p/2miLsL2) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Deano400 on August 23, 2021, 01:05:02 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on August 23, 2021, 01:22:42 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 23, 2021, 09:28:18 PM
Looking good Ted! Not much room getting in past these rear mounting lugs if I remember, at least with the complete engine.
With having my blocks just at the right height it all went in like I had planned for a change.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 24, 2021, 03:08:17 PM
I'm forever removing dog hairs that seem to blow in - need to use a cardboard box to cover up the engine rather than a clean(ish) old towel.
Out of interest is it possible for me to test the gear selection as the top wheel rotated as I tightened the bolt and it is now in a gear?
It would be good to know that the selection system works presumably I will have to fit the nearside cover and connect the gear shift?
..(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51399805863_57821546e2_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mj2rxn)gear mechanism (https://flic.kr/p/2mj2rxn) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Post by: taysidedragon on August 24, 2021, 03:17:01 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on August 24, 2021, 03:32:34 PM
Lift the arm marked red above the spot marked green, turn the shaft too and fro whilst selecting the gears.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 24, 2021, 03:42:08 PM
I've pinched this photo off of a FB page as someone was asking the same question the other day and I haven't got one of my own photos to hand.
Lift the arm marked red above the spot marked green, turn the shaft too and fro whilst selecting the gears.
When you say turn the shaft to & fro do you mean the top wheel that is the selector drum?
Post by: Bryanj on August 24, 2021, 10:53:21 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 26, 2021, 03:17:47 PM
This afternoon I started the task of fitting pistons into the bottom of my block cylinders after a couple of decades only fitting pistons on cars from the top end. This video was my homework the day before :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfCwpDsP_5E
For the benefit of those who have yet to start this task I'm going to verbalise my process.
1) I checked that the piston ring gaps were suitably in a staggered position on each piston & that there was oil smeared on the cylinder insides. Gasket was in place with the two locating dowels
one on either side.
2) I put a long socket on the mainshaft as my clutch basket is not in place so I could easily rotate the crank slightly if needed to wiggle pistons a tad.
3) I found a suitable piece of wood to support the block at the centre where the camchain runs. I ensured that the wood was tall enough to hold the block just clear of the pistons when 2 & 3
pistons were close to the top of the stroke.
4) I carefully fitted the block over the studs lowering it until it touched the piece of wood. (see picture)
5) I fed the camchain through the block using a cable tie then secured it to the frame so the chain was reasonably taught. (used spare small dog collar on frame lol)
6) I rotated the crank so that pistons 2 & 3 were about an inch from maximum height - the idea was I would be able to pull the pistons up towards the cylinder liner/block if needed.
7) I carefully removed the block of wood - then put another block of wood that was about an inch thinner in place carefully feeding the pistons into liners 2 & 3 as I lowered the block ensuring
pistons 1 & 4 were not trapped as I did this. The cylinder liners have a great suitable taper start to them.
8) I then made sure the top ring of piston 2 was in position at the start of the taper to the liner. I then moved to piston 3 and fed the top ring into the taper. A combination of pulling up on the
pistons or allowing the block to move down made them go into place with no need for excessive force that could break a ring.
9) Once the first ring of pistons 2 & 3 were into the taper I squirted some thin oil onto the top of the pistons. I then repeated the above process until the second ring & finally the oil control rings
were inside the bores. I lost count of how many times I circled the bike ramp to check everything was in place. Now I was happy that pistons 2 & 3 were in place I rotated the crank to give me
some room / height to repeat the process for pistons 1 & 4.
10) I now had all four pistons in the liners so was able to just wobble the whole block down very carfully & evenly making sure the liners did not touch the crankcase sides as it finally engaged
the bottom dowels.
11) Tbh the whole process took about 40 minutes as I kept walking round to make sure each ring was in place. I found that I could not just use my fingers to fit the rings for the last two pistons
as the gap and angle was a bit tight even when I rotated the crank to raise the block a little. I used a 4" offcut of 25mm Speedfit pipe to assist my finger nails for the last two pistons.
I had no issues with the front down tube getting in the way - periodically the wooden block would fall out so I would move it to the other side.
..(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51403795161_c91489cc71_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjnTqn)block in position (https://flic.kr/p/2mjnTqn) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51403049587_71643fc358_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mjj4MD)pistons in place (https://flic.kr/p/2mjj4MD) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Nurse Julie on August 26, 2021, 03:33:00 PM
Post by: Erwin83 on August 26, 2021, 04:13:15 PM
Post by: smoothoperator on August 26, 2021, 07:32:25 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on August 26, 2021, 08:59:18 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 04, 2021, 05:46:13 PM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51424840585_7dd9d5a1ba_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mmeKuv)Head decoking started (https://flic.kr/p/2mmeKuv) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 04, 2021, 06:13:29 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 04, 2021, 07:11:33 PM
A nice way to spend a boring Saturday afternoon Ted. Are you going to skim the head?
As the head gasket was not leaking before I dismantled the engine plus I have been careful to not damage the contact surfaces I can't see the need - I will carefully remove any old bits of gasket so am hoping a skim is not required.
Probably worth getting it checked against suitable flat device - I plan to ask my friend who is a mobile mechanic how they check alloy heads at work - not sure what the protocols are on the sohc site.
Do you have a view Dave?
Post by: Laverdaroo on September 05, 2021, 09:10:19 AM
Post by: Bryanj on September 05, 2021, 10:36:19 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 22, 2021, 11:06:35 PM
The eagle eyed members will have noted I have a new garage door as my old one was worn out after 31 years.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51503419967_71ab4a12c8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mtbupr)front idicators fitted (https://flic.kr/p/2mtbupr) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 24, 2021, 11:40:56 AM
With the camchain tensioner blades both in place I lowered the head partway down the studs so I could feed the tensioner blades through the cylinder head tunnel/slot. The camchain that had a long cable tie attached was fed through the gap between the two blades. Head went down engaging easily with the dowels. Fitted the copper washers & domed nuts in place with the doughty washers, correct nuts fitted to the studs in the spark plug access hole. Fitted rear tensioner blade top cap in place having fitted new plastic clip earlier - finger tightened , front blade in slot on head.
Torqued down cylinder head in sequence as per manual working in stages of 8, 12, 16 then finally 19.6 Nm - lost count of how many circuits of the bike stand I walked during this process. Finally torqued down the two bolts on the cam tensioner top cap. Spark plugs loosly back into head to keep out muck.
I have fitted the tensioner top cap the wrong way around in the picture so had to change it,
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51511170539_c15a811753_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mtSdnZ)cylinder head fitted (https://flic.kr/p/2mtSdnZ) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Nurse Julie on September 24, 2021, 11:56:33 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 24, 2021, 12:32:03 PM
It took me a few nano seconds to spot my error.
Timing mark on TDC for cylinders 1 & 4 I used the big nut on the primary drive gear to rotate the engine, threaded the camshaft carefully into position cutting off the cable tie slipping the chain onto the sprocket until the timing marks lined up horizontally.
I rotated the camshaft to align with the sprocket holes & bolted it in position with the large disc plate in place. Now I am either very lucky that the holes lined up first time if it's an offset lug on the camshaft or I need to check that it on compression for number 1 cylinder on the cam lobes?
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51509828202_f057dcacca_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mtKkmf)TDC crank marks (https://flic.kr/p/2mtKkmf) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51511559890_c9e3b92ae2_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mtUd7W)cam timing marks (https://flic.kr/p/2mtUd7W) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
It's not arterial blood but an excess of assembly lube in the photo
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 24, 2021, 12:49:45 PM
That's my lot for today I have run out of energy!
Post by: Bryanj on September 24, 2021, 01:05:24 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 24, 2021, 01:11:42 PM
Dont matter ted, rotate the crank till the 1 and 4 line up again and the lobes will point up BUT the other end (that fires at same time) will point down
Is that because the camshaft rotates at half crank speed meaning 1 & 4 spark at the same time so unlike a car with a distibuter you can't get the ignition timing 180 deg out?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 25, 2021, 01:25:51 PM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51513664727_67b597d408_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mu5ZPe)CB400 rocker shafts (https://flic.kr/p/2mu5ZPe) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
No I do not have any shares in assembly lube!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 27, 2021, 05:20:32 PM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51524973265_7f29c65615_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mv5Xs2)cam cover on (https://flic.kr/p/2mv5Xs2) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: smoothoperator on September 27, 2021, 05:32:23 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 01, 2021, 12:29:48 PM
Replaced bolts with SS ones, used cordless impact driver to remove the two bolts throught the grip plate as they were tight. Cleaned the rubber part using soap & warm water - dried them - then used Auto Glym Bumper & trim gel to restore the blackness - it's a clear gel.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51537553522_ac779182fe_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mwcr81)right foot rest 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2mwcr81) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51538338406_423e590336_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mwgsru)right foot rest 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2mwgsru) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Laverda Dave on October 01, 2021, 01:39:41 PM
Have you put the wiring loom in the dishwasher yet?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 01, 2021, 03:54:25 PM
You can buy the pivot pins in stainless as well Ted, might as well complete the look. Plus it stops them rusting.
I can't PM you as you are blocked for messages from members.
Do you have a source for the correct SS front foot rest pivot pins please?
A link would be good.
Thanks in advance Ted
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 03, 2021, 11:05:47 AM
Looking good Ted. It's all the small boring bits that take the time. I do a few boring jobs in between doing the 'nice' stuff like engine build etc. Nothing worse than seeing a large chunk of nearly finished bike on the bench for weeks on end whilst you do the small boring bits!
Have you put the wiring loom in the dishwasher yet?
My loom was a mess so I've a bought a new one - I've started to realise that there are other bits of smaller looms like the fuse box & alternator mini looms to clean up.
Does the dishwasher trick clean up the brass terminals or are they all in need of a wire brushing with a small brass suede shoe brush?
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 03, 2021, 11:10:16 AM
You can buy the pivot pins in stainless as well Ted, might as well complete the look. Plus it stops them rusting.
I can't PM you as you are blocked for messages from members.
Do you have a source for the correct SS front foot rest pivot pins please?
A link would be good.
Thanks in advance Ted
Hey Ted,
I used these and they were spot on even though they were cheap, see what you think mate....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294294447937?hash=item448550e741:g:6FQAAOSw-LJbdCNv
Post by: Sesman on October 04, 2021, 07:51:12 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 05, 2021, 11:36:16 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 05, 2021, 03:52:12 PM
As it lashes down in rain here in Derby I am reminded of my many trips from Derby to Chester in 1967/8 on my Honda 250 Dream in all weathers as a teenager- I could not afford leathers as a student (I dreamt of a Belstaff jacket) so I wore fully water proof rubber leggings, hiking boots, an Anorak and for the winter some big leather Gauntlets - I did have a decent helmet.
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 05, 2021, 05:47:56 PM
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on October 05, 2021, 06:40:37 PM
That’ll be one of them then…
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Post by: PaulC on October 06, 2021, 04:50:29 PM
My SS footrest pins arrived today - front & rear the correct size as per Laverdaroo link.
Just ordered a set myself, thanks for the link also 😀
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 06, 2021, 09:39:44 PM
That’ll be one of them then…
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yeah,thanks Steve, doesn't come up on my phone and I've fingers
like sausages,it was easier to type than faff! ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 11, 2021, 08:44:40 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 11, 2021, 04:37:18 PM
I'm thinking that it's only the paint making the clevis pin sit tight Ted, as soon as that wears down you may find they are loose. Mine, minus all the paint are very loose and I've followed old Honda before and watched the entire rear footrest vibrate and rattle around even on smooth roads. Just a thought, I'll keep you updated on how the mod goes in case yours start to rattle around.
I guess you could fit a wavy washer(s) between the bracket & the footrest?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 16, 2021, 09:14:54 PM
My solution has arrived and it works very well Ted, TBH it's so simple I'm sure I'm not the first to do it. The original pins were 6mm and the nearest imperial size is 1/4" which is around 6.3mm, so I sourced some 1/4" stainless clevis pins, measured and found 1 1/2" would be long enough and ordered those. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323993236763?var=513035785363
The pins fitted the outer part of the footrest perfectly, so that shows how wide they'd gone, the inner ones it wouldn't go down, almost but not quite, so ordered a new 1/4" drill bit and that's fixed that. The length is better as well, very slightly too long but that allows a washer to go behind the head so stops that wearing the metal of the footrest bracket as it rotates, the 6mm ones wouldn't allow this. If you haven't compressed the outer bracket like I did it would also allow a washer or maybe 2 to go between the footrest and the bracket and still fit.
Looking to see if I can find some 21/64" ones for the front now, might have some specially made, can't be doing with sloppy footrests. Or maybe I'll try some 3/8" pins.
I'll never carry a pillion so for me its academic just don't like to see frame brackets with nothing attached.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 22, 2021, 01:03:14 PM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51618370249_36643ee08d.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mDkD7R)Carbs & airbox fitted (https://flic.kr/p/2mDkD7R) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Sesman on October 22, 2021, 01:06:19 PM
Keep up the pressure, it will come together quite fast from there.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 22, 2021, 01:38:24 PM
Looking really nice, Ted.
Keep up the pressure, it will come together quite fast from there.
At the moment the cooler weather is slowing me down - as I expected as winter approaches- my stable Angina condition can trip in unexpectedly when the air is cold in the mornings - I get plenty of warning warning signs so it's manageable but if I'm not careful the Black Dog then descends and sapps my energy - not helped by recent poor sleep patterns.
I'm pleased with my progress - I can do some jobs like wheel bearings in my heated garage annexe - I'm looking at heating my workspace if needs must as it gets colder outside.
Post by: Sesman on October 22, 2021, 01:58:29 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 22, 2021, 03:10:20 PM
If anyone wants a cheap light trick, second hand bathroom halogen recess spots. I bought 4, hook em up in a chain through an off cut of timber and hang on big cable ties in the eaves. The cable ties grip the timber so you can swivel it from about 8:30 to the left and 3:30 to the right and you can slide it along the thin latt you hang it from over the bench. Cost me a tenner all in and is super bright as well as warming yer hands in the colder months. Moisture resistant and just on some flex to a plug. spot on.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211022/acce0f9b817d78943feb4611b7393c49.jpg)
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 22, 2021, 03:35:05 PM
Yes, keep,warm and active, Ted. I find bright lighting helps too?. If you have fluorescent tube lights it might help to get some 6000k natural daylight tubes?
I switched to high frequency LED's just before lock down as my old flourescent ones (bought used in 1990) were an odd size & tubes no longer made - I get mild SAD so there I've heard there are proper lights that can help.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 22, 2021, 03:39:07 PM
Thats looking great Ted, well done mate.
If anyone wants a cheap light trick, second hand bathroom halogen recess spots. I bought 4, hook em up in a chain through an off cut of timber and hang on big cable ties in the eaves. The cable ties grip the timber so you can swivel it from about 8:30 to the left and 3:30 to the right and you can slide it along the thin latt you hang it from over the bench. Cost me a tenner all in and is super bright as well as warming yer hands in the colder months. Moisture resistant and just on some flex to a plug. spot on.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211022/acce0f9b817d78943feb4611b7393c49.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's a neat idea those bulbs chuck out some heat it's jogged my memory - I have in my loft a pair of Halogen flood lights on a tripod adjustable stand that I used to use when decorating (circa1995) they would work & are fully adjustable.
I've just found them and they are 500W each with a super beam of heat!!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51618840224_303f7f025e.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mDo3PS)old lamps (https://flic.kr/p/2mDo3PS) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 22, 2021, 05:07:25 PM
mine are really low wattage and pull less than a bulb, just keep yer eye out or a few on flea bay. I've just had to draft-proofed the shed door, cant concentrate with a draft going up me back ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 22, 2021, 06:39:50 PM
Splendid, just watch yer meter with them on at full chat :D
mine are really low wattage and pull less than a bulb, just keep yer eye out or a few on flea bay. I've just had to draft-proofed the shed door, cant concentrate with a draft going up me back ;D
There are grills over the lamps to stop you burning yourself - when I used to use them to see where I was painting whilst the ceiling lights were down I wore shorts & T shirt in the summer they were that dam hot. I had to have a new garage door this summer so I've a fully insulated sectional one that is pretty draft proof - my ceiling is boarded - was going to Kingspan it but spent the money on the bike instead.
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 22, 2021, 06:42:34 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 25, 2021, 04:20:25 PM
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51627293267_2330250772.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mE8nBZ)Monday 25 th October 2021 (https://flic.kr/p/2mE8nBZ) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Sesman on October 25, 2021, 05:15:30 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 25, 2021, 05:38:59 PM
Oh, yes. Nearly there Ted.
I have to agree with you it's starting to look like a bike again - once my back wheel is in I'm going to start fitting the wiring loom - that will be fun - electrics can go really well or just turn into a series of things just not working right.
I'll have to brush up on my AVO skills first as I usually just rely on voltage readings for most things - also I have a tendency to forget that an earth connection on the Honda is going to mean it's a negative ground unlike modern cars that are positive earth. Once I have worked out the colour of a ground wire is usually green it should start to make sense - unlike most cars where they are brown. I can easily get confused - I like block connectors that are Male or female with offsets to stop you plugging the wrong ones in.
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 25, 2021, 06:02:59 PM
The builds looking fantastic, loving that blue, that will be stunning when shes done.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 25, 2021, 06:23:03 PM
Sounds like you'll be needing some factor 40 Ted, dont be getting burnt in front of those lights ;D ;D ;DMy BiL and his Missus love the frame colour it's the nearest my powder coaters had to Navy blue. Lol
The builds looking fantastic, loving that blue, that will be stunning when shes done.
I'm not sure now what colour the tank & side panels will be - originally it was going to be a metallic navy blue or silver with chain mail hydroponic transfer or whatever you call the floating transfer process.
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 25, 2021, 06:53:41 PM
[/quote]
Originaly? have you changed your mind now, transfer dipping's a bold move mind.
Loving the gold back wheel by the way but dont tell anyone, ok? ;) 8)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 26, 2021, 10:16:43 AM
originally it was going to be a metallic navy blue or silver with chain mail hydroponic transfer or whatever you call the floating transfer process.
Originaly? have you changed your mind now, transfer dipping's a bold move mind.
Loving the gold back wheel by the way but dont tell anyone, ok? ;) 8)
[/quote]
My original plan was always fluid - the gold wheels was a pipe dream that became a reality - my BiL has gold wheels on his Ducati and Ive seen some on a meembers Moto Morini (teenybop1) plus I love Gold Wheels. I even talked Wendy into some on her Merc.(below) Edit: Since that picture was taken the centre caps are gold background not silver on one side to see if it looks better.
I'll wait until everything else is done and the engine has been running before I decide on the paintwork - might use the bike next summer and do a Phase 2 next winter.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49699298992_c0d2bd437d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHKU6o)SL with Green Hood (https://flic.kr/p/2iHKU6o) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: K2-K6 on October 26, 2021, 10:49:39 AM
Very nice car there Mrs Ted has :D the gold and blue evokes a period when gold wheels were more prevalent and design influences more resolved. They seem to be all about gargoyle (cars and bikes) and massive graphics currently. Even in your own mind you may not be certain exactly if it's heading where you thought until finished sometimes.
Seems like the build is certainly gathering pace, the bit as it reaches more bike than bits always feels good. I like watching your progress Ted, thanks for the effort in documenting and posting.
Post by: taysidedragon on October 26, 2021, 11:46:12 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 26, 2021, 11:56:25 AM
Post by: Sesman on October 26, 2021, 12:28:30 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 26, 2021, 12:36:17 PM
The only colour for Ducati's wheels is gold. End of discussion! ;D
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 26, 2021, 12:39:20 PM
..
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 27, 2021, 08:35:29 AM
Post by: Sesman on October 27, 2021, 10:55:17 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 27, 2021, 11:07:08 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on October 27, 2021, 11:49:47 AM
Yes, it’s a beauty. Would kill my wrists and neck now.
I went out on it for the last time yesterday,shes going to a new home as I cant ride it anymore either. It was bought as a giant mechano set when I had a really bad break up some ten years ago. I bought her in boxes for a grand and did it up as a mind exercise; an expensive one but a good one. A pals buying her and keeping her in the near family which is good.
I have metal rods in my wrists as a result of a bad crash as an adolescent and a work injury and at the jaunty angle with which you have to sit on it, it makes my hands numb ::) so I find it really hard to ride for any length of time.
Happy its going to be ridden, its a hell of a bike. Its got a 916 barrels and heads so you get the spin up of the 748 but the extra oomph of the 916 making her an 853cc and rather rapid...............Kinda done with that now and I've still got the VFR if I want my eyebrows spreading so that breaks the heartache a bit ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 08, 2021, 11:26:04 AM
I have put the thicker axle spacer on the right hand side so hope this is the right way round - it's as it was when I got the bike except now in SS. I am very aware that a lot of my nuts like on the rear axle will rust again as I have not had them re-plated - I might think again about a plating kit next year or just paint them for now.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51664476639_89e1a95f02_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mHpWWB)8th Nov 2021 (https://flic.kr/p/2mHpWWB) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Bryanj on November 08, 2021, 12:06:34 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 08, 2021, 01:51:12 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 08, 2021, 02:41:32 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 24, 2021, 05:32:57 PM
I got my front wheel back from Croft Engineering - The hub thread needed cleaning before I could fit the new lock ring as the first thread where it was peened over was very tight. I did not have a suitable thread file for internal threads - they made a special boss to clean it out - as it was a one off they gave me the part they had made to do the job so I have it for future use if needed.
When the front wheel is in place I will post a picture.
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51702490163_4662a8931d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mLLM3c)new lever (https://flic.kr/p/2mLLM3c) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51702513893_9ebff5fb4d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mLLU6k)IMG_20211124_170300 (https://flic.kr/p/2mLLU6k) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Sesman on November 24, 2021, 06:25:23 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 24, 2021, 06:34:30 PM
I would swear that rose joint on the gear shift shaft should be on the outside?I've looked at my old photo before dismantling - it was like I've re-fitted it the same way - I suspect you could be right though looking at the parts manual?
Update: That might explain why the link bar looks a tad too angular - presumably when it's fitted the other way round the link bar will be straight!
Post by: Sesman on November 24, 2021, 07:22:20 PM
Post by: Sesman on November 24, 2021, 07:23:57 PM
Post by: AshimotoK0 on November 24, 2021, 07:29:37 PM
"For every mole of liquid vapourized, a mole of vapour is condensed". ;D ;D ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 24, 2021, 08:24:20 PM
Don't forget Ted !Of course calculating the HETP assuming constant Enthalpy perhaps?
"For every mole of liquid vapourized, a mole of vapour is condensed". ;D ;D ;D
I only changed a hyphen and one letter well done Ash.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 24, 2021, 10:53:59 PM
Stop vaporising Moles, I like Moles
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on November 25, 2021, 06:49:45 AM
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Post by: Sesman on November 25, 2021, 07:11:32 AM
Stick with it Ted and get it fired up for Christmas.
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on November 25, 2021, 07:53:15 AM
Oddjob - you have clearly never had moles in your lawn(s).
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From my Chemistry O'level days I think that would be a "Molar Solution" :P
Post by: Sesman on November 25, 2021, 08:29:20 AM
Post by: Nurse Julie on November 25, 2021, 08:32:54 AM
Post by: AshimotoK0 on November 25, 2021, 08:49:23 AM
I just love a thread that morps 😆😆😆😆😆
Sorry :-[ :-[ it's the anorak in me !
Post by: Bryanj on November 25, 2021, 09:15:06 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 25, 2021, 09:17:28 AM
Oddjob - you have clearly never had moles in your lawn(s).
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From my Chemistry O'level days I think that would be a "Molar Solution" :P
Yes the molecular weight of a compound dissolved in a litre of water for a 1.0 molar solution - who says we never use what we learnt at school.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 25, 2021, 09:33:53 AM
I just love a thread that morps 😆😆😆😆😆
Sorry :-[ :-[ it's the anorak in me !
I'm just a frustrated Chemical Engineer who spent four years at University on a college based thick sandwich course back in the days when the local authority gave you a grant to pay not just your fees but an allowance to pay for Digs, food, books and most importantly beer!
On my course I got to work in four different industrial placements - one was Associated Octel who made the Tetraethyl Lead in Petrol at Ellesmere Port, Laporte Industries in Stallingborough on an experimental distillation rig, Maitzena Werke GMBH in Krefeld Germany and BPB Industries. Due to the dire economic situation in the UK in 1973 when Harold Wilson was PM that was the end of my dream. I obtained an SRC grant to do my Masters Degree but returned the cheque to start work proper - life is a very meandering stream just like some posts here.
Post by: Sesman on November 25, 2021, 10:13:00 AM
Nice back story,Ted. Has the rose joint orientation swap worked?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 25, 2021, 10:28:07 AM
Sponsored beer…those were the days. :)I sneaked out last night and switched it much better but need to replace the rusted circlip.
Nice back story,Ted. Has the rose joint orientation swap worked?
Union bar for a pint of Newcastle Brown with a cheese and onion baggette most lunch times - happy days.
Newcastle Brown and Bagguette
Post by: Sesman on November 25, 2021, 11:23:18 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 25, 2021, 11:58:57 AM
Anyways I've fitted the gearshift the right way - will need a new circlip as the 3 point clips I have do not sit fully in the groove. When I've looked at pictures of stock 400 fours they all seem to show the right hand side pics not the left. If anyone can show me a picture of the splined lever in the correct position that would help me get it right. Too far clockwise and the bar strikes the footrest - too far anti-clockwise it can touch the casing.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 25, 2021, 12:39:55 PM
[attachimg=1]
Owner image that's clearer to see setting.
[attachimg=2]
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 25, 2021, 12:53:23 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 25, 2021, 07:03:29 PM
Wow, Newky Brown. That was progressive drinking south of Doncaster back in the 70’s.
Still is down hwere in not so sunny Brizzle! Its either a bottle of Gods own Beer (Timmy Taylors LAndlord or if not in stock, a return to default setting and a bootle of 'Dog' it is 8)
Post by: Bryanj on November 25, 2021, 09:54:05 PM
Didna bother me as i was at colledge in Southshields!
Post by: Johnwebley on November 25, 2021, 10:06:30 PM
I have enjoyed many fun nights in Brizzel,Wow, Newky Brown. That was progressive drinking south of Doncaster back in the 70’s.
Still is down hwere in not so sunny Brizzle! Its either a bottle of Gods own Beer (Timmy Taylors LAndlord or if not in stock, a return to default setting and a bootle of 'Dog' it is 8)
Hotels Rd
Park Rd
The Hatchet
Queen square
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Post by: Johnwebley on November 25, 2021, 10:07:10 PM
HOTWELLS RDI have enjoyed many fun nights in Brizzel,Wow, Newky Brown. That was progressive drinking south of Doncaster back in the 70’s.
Still is down hwere in not so sunny Brizzle! Its either a bottle of Gods own Beer (Timmy Taylors LAndlord or if not in stock, a return to default setting and a bootle of 'Dog' it is 8)
Hotels Rd
Park Rd
The Hatchet
Queen square
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: Charlie J on November 25, 2021, 10:09:26 PM
Oh god, now i have to go watch Four Feather Falls and Fireball XL5 again
This thread has taken on a life of its own, but still has motorcycles at its core.
Four Feather Falls = Tex Tucker = Nicholas Parsons = Murray Walker = Two Fingers Up = Barry Sheen.
If you get those links, you’re as sad as me
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 26, 2021, 09:46:24 AM
Wow, Newky Brown. That was progressive drinking south of Doncaster back in the 70’s.
Still is down hwere in not so sunny Brizzle! Its either a bottle of Gods own Beer (Timmy Taylors LAndlord or if not in stock, a return to default setting and a bootle of 'Dog' it is 8)
I love Timothy Taylors Landlord - got pretty "happy" one lunchtime in Bristol with my mate Bob whilst our wives went shopping (we were attending a friends wedding) sadly Bob's wife died suddenly at home of Covid last year. Yvonne is the only person that I know who died from Covid - that said my circle of close friends is not huge.
Back to the rebuild:-
Yesterday I finished fitting the front wheel bearings in place with seals spacer etc - if the cold weather holds off I hope to get the front wheel fitted as soon as my little jack arrives. That will leave me the wiring to connect up, tappets, timing,exhuast system then finally sort out the tank & side panel paintwork. Snagging lists of things to tighten, check & adjust.
I can see light at the end of the tunnel - that's why I'm slowing down perhaps as I do not want it to end?
Post by: Sesman on November 26, 2021, 02:14:43 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 26, 2021, 05:15:43 PM
Speed up, Ted. More time to ride and tinker…or even start a new one.
I've been offered a LML Star 125 Scooter to restore - I may have offended my friend when I told him it thought was worthless now and would still worthless restored - easier for him to buy a Royal Alloy!
My bike jack arrived this afternoon so whilst it was above 10 deg I have removed the front wheel, started dismantling / cleaning the speedometer drive as the temperature dropped so will see what bits if any you can get for the unit - at the minimun I could do with the oil seal but can't see it listed in the parts book or on the DS site.
Anyone have a source for a new speedo drive hub oil seal?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 26, 2021, 10:08:18 PM
The old seal will have it marked on it Ted, I just bought 2 off eBay for the 500 drive, they may well be the same size.
I think the other seal inside the tunnel is the same as the 500/550 tacho drive.
The seal has the markings NOK AE1967E .
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 27, 2021, 08:53:13 AM
Same as the 500/550/750 I believe Ted.
It's a 34x48x7 and here is where I bought mine from. It's also a double lip seal.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224125083081
Thanks Ken I've ordered one.
Updated 2/12/21:-
Seal has arrived - despite the cold weather - I fitted it this afternoon - now waiting for the large "O" ring and small cable end seal so I can assemble the whole axle, fit the brake disc and get the wheel in place before the ice age sets in.
PS I Googled Four Feathers Falls - I remeber the cartoon but not the name.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718788652_aab02ac3b8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mNdj1C)Four Feather Falls (https://flic.kr/p/2mNdj1C) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: wildtapholer on December 02, 2021, 08:37:25 PM
Classic cartoon as was, remember watching them when I was younger as well as, space patrol, Fireball XL5,stingray, Captain Scarlet ho the memories. lolSame as the 500/550/750 I believe Ted.
It's a 34x48x7 and here is where I bought mine from. It's also a double lip seal.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224125083081
Thanks Ken I've ordered one.
Updated 2/12/21:-
Seal has arrived - despite the cold weather - I fitted it this afternoon - now waiting for the large "O" ring and small cable end seal so I can assemble the whole axle, fit the brake disc and get the wheel in place before the ice age sets in.
PS I Googled Four Feathers Falls - I remeber the cartoon but not the name.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718788652_aab02ac3b8_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mNdj1C)Four Feather Falls (https://flic.kr/p/2mNdj1C) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Bryanj on December 02, 2021, 09:56:39 PM
Post by: SumpMagnet on December 02, 2021, 10:50:40 PM
The last of the Supermarionation series was Thunderbirds... but his last puppet series wasy Terrahawks ... made in the 80's, it ran for only 3 series and was set, laughablu now ... in the 2020's. Used more latex hand puppets and less strings.
Loved Stingray.... but I never understood why it said 'anything can happen in the next half hour' in the opening credits...but the program wasn't half an hour long.
I was an odd child
Post by: Laverdaroo on December 02, 2021, 11:08:11 PM
In a past life I used to work at B&Q and the paint expert there was the retired artist and painter of the Thunderbird sets and models, a chap called Brian but sadly cant remember his surname. He kindly painted a wonderful picture of my then, Fiance's treasured 1967 Beige Beetle for a crimbo prezzie.......FOC!
He was a top chap, just working there for summut to do, bless him.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 03, 2021, 09:46:51 AM
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torchy_the_Battery_Boy
Post by: Spitfire on December 03, 2021, 10:38:41 AM
Cheers
Dennis
Post by: heli_madken on December 03, 2021, 10:42:56 AM
Made in 1961, you have to admire their imagination and inventiveness, we still haven't truly arrived at what they portrayed but I don't think it will be too long
EDIT -
You just beat me too it Dennis :)
Post by: Seabeowner on December 03, 2021, 07:02:06 PM
https://www.zoopla.co.uk/property/flat-5/islet-park-house/islet-park/maidenhead/sl6-8le/21802138/
The first Slough site is a tyre fitters and the bigger second demolished.
Post by: Charlie J on December 03, 2021, 07:22:03 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 11, 2022, 12:58:47 PM
Finally fitted the front wheel - the disc seems to be binding on the new pads even though there is no fluid in the system & the piston is completely free - I suspect it's something to do with the weird long screw / spring arrangement on the pivot arm. I need to check the manual as to what to do.
By the time I had fitted the wheel and turned the bike round on the stand so the front wheel was in the clamp I was too tired to do any more today.
I'm liking the look of the wheels now they are both fitted - hopefully I can start fitting the exhuast system next.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51814346273_94c197a492_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mWE4XP)front wheel fitted (https://flic.kr/p/2mWE4XP) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Sesman on January 11, 2022, 01:16:23 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 11, 2022, 01:34:50 PM
That’s looking really nice, Ted. Tell me, how have you finished the clutch cover?I sprayed it using the engine paint then oven cured.
Post by: Sesman on January 11, 2022, 02:10:17 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on January 11, 2022, 05:29:27 PM
Love the blue and Gold, really nice mate.
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on January 11, 2022, 06:41:34 PM
Post by: JamesH on January 12, 2022, 08:40:09 AM
Post by: smoothoperator on January 12, 2022, 07:05:01 PM
Post by: philward on January 12, 2022, 10:47:41 PM
Post by: heli_madken on January 12, 2022, 11:25:51 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 19, 2022, 10:10:37 PM
Post by: Oddjob on January 20, 2022, 11:55:07 AM
Love the wheels Ted, black and gold, never fails.
Oh, spray the coils blue, you know you want too.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 20, 2022, 02:20:39 PM
I think I will have to remove the silencer for a final fit as there ought to be some sealant where the front pipes go into the silencer.
I used the original rear bracket in the end to use both hangers - only bolts I had that would fit the dead eyes are the allen key headed ones - as & when I'll fit proper bolts.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51831901691_8d8e6c5ecd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mYd3zr)front pipes (https://flic.kr/p/2mYd3zr) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51832017403_2890c247a8_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2mYdCYt)rear bracket fits (https://flic.kr/p/2mYdCYt) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Johnny4428 on January 20, 2022, 02:29:47 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on January 20, 2022, 02:32:39 PM
Well done
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 20, 2022, 02:34:59 PM
Tidy looking build Ted! What colour tank and sides did you end up going for?
Tbh I'm still undecided I might leave the tank & panels and see what they look like in place before I make a final decision - at the moment I'm leaning towards the same colour as the frame - I have the RAL number so can go with that or a much darker cobalt blue / navy blue colour.
Thanks for the feedback folks - the photographs do flatter the build of course - my phone camera must be soft focus by default.
Post by: Laverdaroo on January 20, 2022, 06:40:06 PM
The colour we did Chewy was a Mercedes Vito colour, they only did four or five shades of that blue that year, on that van. Once all five are in front of you it's easy to spot the one you liked and thats the code to start from. Saves loads of time and makes the process a lot less faff.
Go for a mooch round the supermarket car park, next time your there and see what floats yer boat and yer away...
Top build though Ted, loving it to bits, well done.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 07, 2022, 01:31:49 PM
Next task is the valve clearances - I could do with it being just a tad warmer as I want to do all 8 in one warm session. I have the feeler strip so next I'll read up on the sequence/order in the manual.
Post by: Laverdaroo on February 07, 2022, 06:12:11 PM
I think Bryan had a simple way on one of his posts, worth a read and makes much better sense. Have a look or PM him mate, it saves hours.
Post by: K2-K6 on February 07, 2022, 08:13:07 PM
Turn crankshaft to T on 1+4 cylinders (1 OR 4 will now be on compression with both valves closed) set the clearance on the cylinder that's on compression with both valves closed, also 2+3 cylinders will have ONE of their valve closed so you can set those.
Now rotate the crankshaft 360 degree to T again, now the opposite of 1+4 cylinders can be set along with the two on 2+3 you didn't do the first time.
In short, with the two crankshaft position you can complete all the valves.
Post by: Laverdaroo on February 07, 2022, 09:47:54 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 07, 2022, 10:41:28 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 08, 2022, 01:10:48 PM
I just turn it to TDC on each cylinder as it closes the valves. So it's 2 more movements, so what, it's not like it's hard work.
So Ken am I understanding you right if I say when number 1 cylinder is at TDC with the inlet valve having just closed then both inlet & exhuast can then be set on number 1 cylinder then repeat for remaining cylinders?
On the old A series BL engines I would get number 1 cylinder with the inlet valve fully open on the camshaft then there would be a corresponding (exhuast?) valve on number 4 cylinder that was fully closed. It is a long time ago it was a firing order thing.
Post by: K2-K6 on February 08, 2022, 02:10:37 PM
Every four cylinder is the same though (except for Yamaha R1 that has offset crankshaft like half a V8) with all of the routine however you do it as applicable across them.
Post by: Bryanj on February 08, 2022, 02:18:32 PM
When the exhaust closes and inlet opens on No 1 tdc(called on the rock), adjust No4, then rotate crank 1 turn to tdc again and do No1
To save any confusion at all i then do the same with 2&3
Post by: Oddjob on February 08, 2022, 03:06:30 PM
Get all the tappet covers off, as the mark approaches 1-4 TDC or T watch the valves on number 1 and number 4 cylinders, one of them will have both valves going down/up, the other will have them both up, the one with both up is the one to do. If you grab a tappet adjuster you can rattle the one on compression stroke, if it's number 1 (and it's a 50/50 chance of it being that) then after doing the tappets turn the crank (clockwise, always clockwise) then as 2-3 T mark comes up you do number 2 cylinder, turn again to 1-4 and do number 4 and lastly turn again to 2-3 T and do number 3 cylinder. The firing order is 1-2-4-3.
I always do the tappets with the plugs out, Bryan always says DON'T use the big nut to turn the crank with, however that is how Honda tell you to do it, if the plugs are out it's not a problem and TBH how else are you going to turn the crank, yes you can use the kickstart BUT it's a real pain and it's very imprecise especially if your doing the timing that way, you could of course remove the generator cover BUT that's a big job, usually means a new gasket and chances the electrical connectors getting disturbed, no one in the trade would do that, especially if your doing timing, you need to rock the crank and watch the points open and you can't do that with the rotor, it's on the wrong end of the crank.
Post by: Sesman on February 08, 2022, 04:35:33 PM
I tend to adjust using 1thou more on the feeler gauge when nipping up. It seems to result in a nice sliding fit at the specified clearance.
Just saying what works for me.
Post by: Bryanj on February 08, 2022, 04:44:48 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 08, 2022, 05:37:22 PM
Post by: Bryanj on February 08, 2022, 07:40:21 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 09, 2022, 05:42:52 PM
I hope to report the job has been completed soon depending on my energy levels and the "To Do" list from the Gaffer before I go into the garage again!
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51870976307_bf9e863816_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2n2Ej6H)valve clearances (https://flic.kr/p/2n2Ej6H) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Oddjob on February 09, 2022, 08:29:53 PM
Don't over think it, just do the easiest thing.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 09, 2022, 10:20:52 PM
Guilty in the first degree.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 25, 2022, 10:01:42 PM
I'm looking at minor tweaks to the wiring loom routing having made some changes on my speedometer & rev counter routes near the headlamp area. Handy having lots of photos to check against.
Currently fitting new male connectors to the small loom from the left side of the handlebars as they were all the wrong size. The PO had added some wiring in this area but what had been fitted I am not sure as some wires had been cut off to remove the item or items - possibly a DTRL or some sort of relay arrangement?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 04, 2022, 06:33:28 PM
Post by: Bryanj on March 04, 2022, 06:57:47 PM
You can use a front brake light switch from a drum braked cg125 or similar, wires are different colour but fittings same.
EDIT
ebay item 300184704803
Post by: Oddjob on March 04, 2022, 08:50:10 PM
The ones Bryan has listed are much cheaper, shame the pic is so blurred as the connectors don't look great but could just be the pic.
Post by: Bryanj on March 04, 2022, 10:15:58 PM
Only difference is wire colour and price
Post by: Oddjob on March 05, 2022, 01:48:48 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 05, 2022, 02:11:22 PM
Cant remember the colours but they connect in the headlamp, gree/red is one that comes to mind.
You can use a front brake light switch from a drum braked cg125 or similar, wires are different colour but fittings same.
EDIT
ebay item 300184704803
You are spot on Bryan it was Geen/red on the loom - my patern switch had Dark Green/light green trace.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 14, 2022, 04:25:24 PM
Fitted 4 way connector where rear brake lamp loom connection feeds the rear brake light switch to enable power supply to my electronic ignition. Fitted an additional earth cable between battery and existing loom earthing point on regulator mounting bolt to hopefully generally improve earthing.
Painted inside of rear chain guard with Zinc Primer prior to final painting before fitting.
Post by: Laverdaroo on March 14, 2022, 06:27:14 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 18, 2022, 04:55:46 PM
It's put me back a little though I can do some tidying up of the wiring loom connections if it stays warm enough.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 23, 2022, 12:13:08 PM
Chain guard now fitted as is the headlamp unit with nice new H4 LED bulb.
Cleaned out the pipes on the Motad silencer where the front pipes fit to make fitting a bit easier when the wheel is back.
Warm spell will mean I can do some other bits and bobs before my wheel is returned on Friday. I feel confident that the bike should be a runner for my birthday in early May (fingers crossed).
I am keeping the tank & side panels as they are for the summer of 2022 - then looking at the possibility of re-paint & change of exhuast system for Phase2 in 2022/23.
I am assuming of course that the big guy in the sky continues to look down at me favourably for a few more years yet.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 26, 2022, 08:41:13 PM
Wheel fitted clamps torqued up, starter cable connected ready for cranking over having turned it with the kickstart by hand to check everything feels right rotationwise.
Adjusted front brake caliper as per manual.
Exhuast system going back on probably Monday or Tuesday depending on weather & household obligations.lol
Not a lot left to do before launch day!
Post by: Johnny4428 on March 26, 2022, 09:46:09 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on March 27, 2022, 10:46:50 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on March 27, 2022, 11:03:48 AM
What are you going to do for the next project (you have to think ahead to the next one😉).
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 27, 2022, 01:41:20 PM
Once the exhaust system is on Ted all the big jobs are done and the wait is nearly over👍.
What are you going to do for the next project (you have to think ahead to the next one😉).
I do have a spare engine so I might strip that down and rebuild it (when not fishing) - not sure tbh. Bonus would be I have a better idea of the costs involved plus the confidence to do the job.
Then there might be the Phase 2 option if I want to pour more money into the existing project and tidy up more areas.
Iastly I have our Mercedes R129 that we have had for 19 years that I could tinker with if I was desperate for things to do.
Post by: Nurse Julie on March 27, 2022, 04:09:34 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 28, 2022, 06:40:51 PM
Just as I thought I knew what I was doing I realised I had not fitted the front pipe clamp over the pipe after getting number 3 pipe into the silencer. Struggled to get it out of the silencer again - re-fitted - did not make the same mistake with No 4 front pipe.
With spark piugs out I cranked engine over with starter until oil light went out - it took a little longer to go out than expected but once it went out it was quick to go out again pretty much straight away on the button.
Looks like it might be Friday before I can do the ignition timing then get the petrol tank fitted - inching achingly closer!
There was a time I would have worked until midnight to get the bike running today - Wendy is on Holiday so I need to keep a perspective and be patient its been over 19 months . This morning I took my fishing tackle out of the garage loft ready for another summer distraction.
Post by: smoothoperator on March 28, 2022, 06:59:04 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 28, 2022, 07:41:28 PM
Getting there Ted. The weather has been great for motivation recently, let's hope it's better than the forecast over the next few days, 8 degrees is going to feel bloody cold. As a matter of interest, where did you get the idea for putting silcone sealant in the exhaust joint? I have re-used the old gasket as it was in good nick but haven't checked yet to see if it has made a full seal.
It was mentioned on this site a friend gave me a part used tube of high temperature silicone sealant it was Grey in colour.
I was going to use normal clear silicone its just on the downpipe to silencer joint as the Motad system has no gasket.
Post by: Bryanj on March 28, 2022, 11:05:21 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 29, 2022, 01:41:48 PM
Silicone not a good idea on high temp stuff as i remember, normal exhaust gasket paste there if you want but i dont remember using anything when fitting Motad or Dunstal as they will coke up eventually
The product I have used made by Elring of Germany Dirko HT Silicone based sealant - temperature range -60 C to +315 C just a smear like Hondabond when inserting the pipes - fairly slow drying as well so it does not go off whilst fitting the last pipe in place.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 04, 2022, 09:02:15 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on April 04, 2022, 09:26:17 AM
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 04, 2022, 10:08:15 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on April 04, 2022, 01:14:52 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 05, 2022, 02:00:27 PM
I'm not going to remove the cam cover until I am feeling much better so I will just go through some mental processes for my plan of action. If possible I would like to avoid having to take the carbs off if it can be avoided.
It looks as though I can just remove the horn, coils, various cables for ease of access then remove the top vent cover. I'm minded to loosen all the tappets before I remove the rocker cover bolts in the correct order to take the rocker loads off the camshaft.
I guess I will be able to then align the T mark and see the horizontal camshaft marks - care not to drop the sprocket bolts into the engine by plugging up the routes with a nice clean tea towel or similar.
Any tips welcome please do not say the carbs have to come off I did such a neat job of fitting the air boxes through the rear of the frame with the wheel & mudguard out.
Post by: Oddjob on April 05, 2022, 02:04:47 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 05, 2022, 02:09:11 PM
Carbs can stay on Ted, only need to come off when removing the head.
Thanks Ken that's a relief of sorts.
Still beating myself up for such a rookie error my excuse is that cars have slightly different markings with ephasis on TDC with various timing advance marks in degrees - stupid-stupid-stupid me.
Birch twigs out now......
Post by: Bryanj on April 05, 2022, 03:26:08 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 05, 2022, 04:34:59 PM
Read your other post Ted, you didn't do the check correctly mate
I repeat I'm stupid - stupid - stupid thank goodness I have not undone anything except in my mind.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 10, 2022, 03:52:29 PM
Current side effects are sore eyes, intermittent cough, exhuastion but still waking up with a pulse.
Post by: Oddjob on April 10, 2022, 06:37:27 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 10, 2022, 07:50:37 PM
I'd worry more about waking up without a pulse Ted.
If you wake up without a pulse it's just dreaming or game over.
Post by: Oddjob on April 11, 2022, 01:03:07 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 13, 2022, 01:26:11 PM
Waiting for a couple of vent pipes from DS before I can fit the tank. It will be fiddly fitting the pipes with the air box in place but pretty sure I can do it with my long fingers!
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 15, 2022, 07:01:37 PM
The end of the build is tantalisingly close now.
Post by: Sesman on April 16, 2022, 08:30:31 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 16, 2022, 05:27:02 PM
C’mon Ted. The anticipation is electric…Have the parts arrived?
Parts have arrived today and duly fitted - before I fit the petrol tank I just need to make up some new plug leads as the old ones were not quite right.
Watch this space.......
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 19, 2022, 04:10:30 PM
She took a few cranks followed by some popping & banging then she fired into life on all four cylinders I am suitably estatic!
This phase of the rebuild is hopefully now finished just have a few things to tighten up on the front brakes and she might even get a run around the block in the next 24 hours!
Post by: Laverda Dave on April 19, 2022, 04:17:25 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 19, 2022, 04:19:21 PM
Post by: heli_madken on April 19, 2022, 04:21:32 PM
Post by: Sesman on April 19, 2022, 04:35:42 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 19, 2022, 04:37:37 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on April 19, 2022, 04:51:19 PM
Having just read the latest replies I am grinning from ear to ear - I feel like a teenager again for 5 minutes!Great news,
And even better, your grinning and feeling like a teenager again,
It's the affect bikes have on us
Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk
Post by: Johnny4428 on April 19, 2022, 05:29:47 PM
Post by: oldchuffer on April 19, 2022, 05:42:07 PM
Post by: smoothoperator on April 19, 2022, 07:35:28 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 19, 2022, 08:19:51 PM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on April 19, 2022, 08:21:24 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on April 19, 2022, 09:09:38 PM
Well done mate thats absolutely fantastic. So chuffed for you, a thousand bends and a thousand smiles await ;) :)
Post by: Oddjob on April 19, 2022, 11:26:44 PM
Get in Ted!!
Well done mate thats absolutely fantastic. So chuffed for you, a thousand bends and a thousand smiles await ;) :)
Your such a trend setting romantic Roo 😊😍
Post by: taysidedragon on April 20, 2022, 12:17:33 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on April 20, 2022, 12:29:50 AM
Get in Ted!!
Well done mate thats absolutely fantastic. So chuffed for you, a thousand bends and a thousand smiles await ;) :)
Your such a trend setting romantic Roo 😊😍
Thanks love ;)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 28, 2022, 05:07:55 PM
Thank you everyone here who has helped me through the ups and downs both on the post & with PM's during my journey.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 03, 2022, 12:30:13 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52046157262_32846fd3dd_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ni9ai1)Teds CB400 (https://flic.kr/p/2ni9ai1) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Here is the bike pretty much done unless I decide to get the Tank & side panels painted next winter.
The third mirror was to block up the existing bar end hole plus it was a partly gold mirror for the blind spot!
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on May 03, 2022, 04:17:53 PM
Post by: hondarc166 on May 03, 2022, 04:40:41 PM
Post by: Spitfire on May 03, 2022, 04:49:11 PM
Cheers
Dennis
Post by: Nurse Julie on May 03, 2022, 05:39:19 PM
Post by: Sesman on May 03, 2022, 05:46:20 PM
Just one small observation, does that rear brake lever need moving round a few degrees closer to 90 and the rod pushed through a little more.Apologies, but I’m quite fussy about things like that.😌
Post by: heli_madken on May 03, 2022, 06:31:29 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 03, 2022, 07:42:38 PM
Looks absolutely great Ted. You should be justifiably proud. And thanks for taking the time and effort to share your thread with us.Yes the rod is not as far down on the thread as needed. I've actually moved it twice and ended up where it is. The brake shoes are new and I'm pretty sure they will bed in quite quickly as with the thread proud of the bolt you can still rotate the wheel with some effort.
Just one small observation, does that rear brake lever need moving round a few edges and so the rod can push through a little more.Aplogies, but I’m quite fussy about things like that.😌
I was trying to maximise the leverage.
Post by: smoothoperator on May 03, 2022, 07:43:34 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 03, 2022, 08:12:38 PM
Great result Ted and I've so much enjoyed the ride along with you. Also need to mention all the help with bits and bobs you have done for me. See ya on the road!Yes indeed Crich becons Steve!
Post by: Johnny4428 on May 03, 2022, 10:08:27 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on May 03, 2022, 11:00:28 PM
A credit to you, well done ;)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 04, 2022, 10:23:42 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on May 04, 2022, 10:58:05 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 05, 2022, 08:35:29 AM
I need to get some miles on the bike to run it in & gain confidence on its reliability - also could do with green P plates on the back to refresh my riding ability as at present my adrenaline level are too high in anticipation of a ride yet alone actually doing it.
There are so many things on my existing bike that I wish I had done better - such as having the block & head sand blasted for a better paint finish surface. (I did have quite a few things going on healthwise during 2020 not to mention Covid situation)
I did not bake the painting on the main engine casings or head as I was fearful of heat distortion.
I'm still thinking of buying a Gateros Plating kit - there seem to be a lot of options on their website plus I might need to install a cooker hood extractor for safety. There is probably a post somewhere on here about setting it all up etc. It might not be cost effective but must be a great feeling doing it yourself if it goes right.
Post by: K2-K6 on May 05, 2022, 09:17:00 AM
Normally I favour black frames (unless it's Italian) but that deep blue coupled with the gold rims looks particularly good now photographed assembled and in daylight, and nicely different.
At least we've all kept you out of trouble for a while ;D it'll be good to see you both out and about at Crich. Looks like some nice conditions to get out and try bike and new riding gear too.
Nigel.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 12, 2023, 03:33:59 PM
When my 500 is completed sometime around May/June 2024 my plan is to re-visit a few areas on the 400 that I either did not touch or that I will change provided the 500 runs okay.
The front forks were fitted with new seals by the PO at an unknown date. I will drain the oil to see what state it is in as I suspect it was done a while back. I intend to fit a different front headlamp - most probably the 500 unit that has a standard size lamp unit.
I was planning to sell the 400 when the 500 was finished to fund the next build - time will tell if I have the energy for that. More importantly I want next year to be a warm dry summer so I can have some trips down memory lane on two wheels.
Post by: Oddjob on December 12, 2023, 05:24:27 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 12, 2023, 06:22:40 PM
You may find Ted that the 500 headlight won't fit on the 400 due to it's shape, you may need a 550 bowl instead and even that may not fit. The 500 bowl won't fit on the 550 for example due to the position of the ignition switch.
I'm sure you are correct Ken a 500 bowl will not fit in a standard 400 headlamp bracket mine is a bit of a mongrel arrangement as the original headlamp unit was scrap - badly damaged rim, rotted reflector & split bowl.
I retained the old 400 headlamp bracket to act as a brace for my current headlamp mounting arrangement. Presently it is mounted on a pair of fork alloy brackets that pushes the new mounting point forward quite a bit & lower by around 3/4" so plenty of room. I have checked it against my original black 500 bowl. All I will need to do is alter the spacers I fitted on the side mounting bolts. Undecided if I will use a chromed plastic headlamp bowl or the black one I have.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 21, 2023, 10:28:47 AM
Fork fluid changed will not know until I ride it in the spring if there is any difference but it should be a tad firmer as the right fork tube had very little oil in it.
I willl bob a photo of the new headlamp look on here later today or tomorrow.
Post by: Johnwebley on December 21, 2023, 11:02:09 AM
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 21, 2023, 11:39:09 AM
Are you going for the H4 60/55 ?
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For now it's the full LED unit with Halo front sidelamp (5W) as a DTRL not a higher powered version unit that are available as an option mine is 60W/90W output 2400/3000 LM.
Yes the sink was put in about 10 years after all the mains sockets so the one above the sink is a risk but the garage has a consumer unit with RCB's etc.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53411967203_0342d9a163_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pnQi1g)400 lamp change 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2pnQi1g) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53411795286_633b95cd4c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pnPpUb)400 lamp change (https://flic.kr/p/2pnPpUb) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr