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Messages - r1_pete
1
« on: February 09, 2020, 06:24:12 PM »
I have my 450 running, which is surprising as it was seized when I got it, but not very well. New plugs, points, condensers, nice bright blue spark at the right time. Carbs are spotless, all primaries etc cleaned out, and rebuild kits inc floats. The bike is difficult to start, will run nicely at highish revs, but as it settles to tickover it dies, seems to need air which leaves me thinking its float heights.....
Can someone confirm is it 20mm to the gasket face or to the body flange?? I have them set to gasket face, which seemed the most common advice, but looking at the card tools they must set it to body flange, which is a 2mm difference.....
2
« on: December 01, 2019, 06:02:34 PM »
Thanks..
I thought the rear axle too, but thats m18.
3
« on: December 01, 2019, 03:04:48 PM »
Hi all,
I just returned to Classic Honda ownership, after selling off my sohc 750s and parts a few years ago.
I have. 1971 450, and just looking to remove the alternator rotor, is the puller needed anything more than an M16 screw with a fine thread draw bolt up the middle?? If so I’ll just make one up, and a protector disc for the bolt to push on and protect the crank.
Cheers.
4
« on: February 23, 2018, 10:19:07 PM »
Sounds good 😎😎
5
« on: February 23, 2018, 06:53:41 PM »
Cheers, yes if they are K4 they wont work on my 392 head.
Thanks for trying though.
6
« on: February 22, 2018, 09:12:00 PM »
I thought all sohc were 14mm spindles, the dohc went to 16mm, I have modified a dohc to fit my K1, it uses needle rollers, was wider and longer than the K.
7
« on: February 22, 2018, 09:08:20 PM »
They could work, how much are you looking for, for them??
8
« on: February 21, 2018, 07:14:46 PM »
Does anyone know of a maker / supplier of 4-2 exhausts. I’m using a 392 engine in a 71 chassis, so would need K6/7 exhausts.
Ive a few sets of headers, 4-4 and 4-1 so could make my own, but re chroming would be as much as aftermarket pipes.
9
« on: February 11, 2018, 09:23:57 PM »
I prefer the manual adjuster conversion, the spring only sets the initial tension, then its locked up with the pinch bolt anyway.
10
« on: February 07, 2018, 10:20:03 PM »
Cheers Sam, useful for future ref...
11
« on: February 06, 2018, 08:35:14 PM »
Cheers mate..
12
« on: February 06, 2018, 07:04:30 PM »
Cant find any references, but do the dots on the 392 pistons go to the front of the engine?.
Cheers.
Pete.
13
« on: February 04, 2018, 08:15:20 PM »
From an engineering viewpoint studs are a better solution, less chance of stripping the threads in the alloy head.
It could be someone has stripped one or more, and put studs in to reach undamaged threads deeper in the hole..
14
« on: January 27, 2018, 01:50:47 PM »
It could work, but, you would weaken the bearing housing by machining off the overlap, you would also need to use a sealed bearing. What bout chain run? Have you checked that would be straight. I think I would try a matching Kawasaki hub before machining the Honda one.
15
« on: August 06, 2016, 09:16:30 PM »
No mate, I can't seem to keep anything stock...
I just converted the E Type to electronic engine management....
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