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Messages - Yoshi823

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46
CB750 / Re: CB750F1 Valve guide reaming
« on: November 20, 2018, 10:02:34 AM »
When I machined 8 new valve guides out of ally-bronze I reamed them to size (6.6mm) after they'd been inserted into the head. I bought this special size from a local engineering firm for not a lot (I think that it was about £10 but it was a long time ago).

I then had the valve seats recut to accept new valves.

47
CB500/550 / Re: Twin disc conversation master cylinder bore?
« on: November 12, 2018, 11:07:26 PM »
I used a standard 550F master cylinder with the double disc installation on my commuter 550. I had Ferodo Supersport pads in one caliper & Vesrah pads in the other. This gave me double disc braking in the dry & single disc braking in the wet, as the Vesrah pads in those days weren't sintered at all  & absolutely useless in the wet. I also installed Goodrich Aeroquip braided brakelines, as these were the only ones available back in those days. A double length banjo bolts held the double lines into place on the brake switch junction.



A few years later I swapped the double discs over to Mrs. Yoshi's 550F2


48
Project Board / Re: phil read rep/honda britain restoration
« on: November 12, 2018, 10:56:34 PM »
Just been reading about this project. looking forward to the next instalment  ;)

49
Project Board / Re: CB 750 F2
« on: November 12, 2018, 10:41:31 PM »
Good effort with this 750F2. Brings back lots of memories of my one many years ago



At the Isle of Man TT in 1980

50
Project Board / Re: CB750F2 .... silk purse from a sows ear.
« on: November 12, 2018, 09:57:17 PM »
The standard frame was modified so that the top end was able to be worked on, mainly because I had a tacho drive oil seal go & I ended up having to remove the engine just for that 20p (at the time) seal. As I didn't have any of my own facilities at the time, I had to use a friend's garage, much to his mum's annoyance.



The modified frame needed a new tank to be made, which wasn't a problem as I wanted a Phil Read Replica style tank



51
Project Board / Re: CB750F2 .... silk purse from a sows ear.
« on: November 12, 2018, 05:13:08 PM »
Only just had a chance to begin to read about this project. Got as far as the part where the basic part of the bike was carried through the house & it reminds me of the 3rd rebuild of my 750F2 back in the early '80s. At the time I had an upstairs maisonette so there were several flights of stairs to navigate so as to get the frame & engine assembly down to the garage.

This was in my bedroom...


52
CB500/550 / Re: Does a K3/K4 seat fit an F1/F2 CB550
« on: November 06, 2018, 06:57:36 PM »
When I bought a CB550K3 as a commuter it came with a sportier seat



But as Mrs.Yoshi is a bit of a short@rse I fitted the seat to her CB550F2



And fitted the F2 seat to the K3


53
Out & About / Re: OUT AND ABOUT 2018
« on: November 06, 2018, 01:11:25 PM »
I went to a small cafe near Brands Hatch on Sunday & spotted a bike that reminded me of my youth, namely a rather nice looking CB550F1 that the owner had imported from the usa & was doing an excellent job of bringing it to as close to UK spec as possible



I chatted for some time with the owner, who was doing his best to source a new F1/F2 silencer & had managed to find a NOS item, but baulked at the idea of spending $1500...YES $1500... on this much sought after part. When I mentioned that i'd bought probably the last one in the UK a few years ago for my wife's CB550F2, for around £100, he said that people would easily pay that amount nowadays.

And yes, I did mention sohc.co.uk

I was riding my all year bike, the Exup & enjoyed the warm bright & dry conditions


54
Other Bikes / Re: CB125T2 from 1980
« on: October 19, 2017, 08:47:10 PM »
Unfortunately photobucket have decided to change their Ts&Cs so my pics are no longer showing unless I pay.

But my post that I started a while ago is here when I was rebuilding my CB125T2. It's still not finished & even less likely to get done anytime soon as i'm going to be a grandad in February & my efforts & spare time are being used in a different direction atm.

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,2763.0.html

55
Other Bikes / Re: CB125T2 from 1980
« on: October 19, 2017, 08:40:25 PM »
Hi PeteUK

The condensers for the points ignition are mounted on the battery box. Not sure why. I remember on my '72 CB125s that I first rode in '75 had the single condenser under the points cover, but there's no room on the CB125T2.

56
Misc / Open / Re: Haynes manuals
« on: October 18, 2017, 09:46:50 PM »
Hmmmm....

Interesting discussion about Haynes manuals. As a poor college student I couldn't afford to pay someone else to maintain my little CB125s back in 1975 so that I had reliable transportation to & from Navy College. My saying of 'If someone else can do it, then so can I'  still rings true.

I bought my first Haynes manual not long after buying the little 125 & pretty soon I was replacing front wheel spokes & had the carb apart to check float heights, not because of the Haynes book, but because I found it easy to do. The Haynes has always been a source of reference for things like the torque wrench settings or how to work out which crank bearing shells to buy.

I used the Haynes CB750 manual for my CB750F2, not for the information that was missing for the F2, but because of the wiring diagram in the back. Having the engine apart became second nature after the first time.

I have since rebuilt several engines & complete bikes with Haynes manuals to hand but rarely used them. I tend to keep service interval records in them as I know that I can find them in a drawer in my tool rack easily.

As for the lies that are printed in them....when I have referenced the Haynes Yamaha R1 manual against a genuine Yamaha one, the figures have been lifted straight from one to the other. Only a few figures in the torque wrench settings caused me to question the figures, like the recommendation to do the rear wheel nut up 150Nm, a figure completely out of all proportion to what is adequate. But it was in the genuine manual, so what else is Haynes supposed to use?

57
Central Wheels in Brum were a total let down in customer service & the final product. They lied several times through their teeth when promising a quick turnaround of some wheels that a friend wanted sorting & when they finally sent the'finished' product the workmanship was decidedly dodgy. Both wheels were returned to Central Wheels from Kent at my friends expense & 2 weeks later they still hadn't done them to a satisfactory situation.

For the amount of money that they charged, they could do with taking a few lessons in customer interaction & after sales service.

The advice is...take your money elsewhere. (Talon are far better)

58
Other Bikes / Re: Tyres
« on: October 18, 2017, 08:41:53 PM »
I could only find the K82 tyres from these people

https://www.vintagetyres.com/shop/en/tyres/dunlop-k82-universal-287
https://www.vintagetyres.com/shop/en/tyres/dunlop-k82-universal-286

Tyres are easy to change with the right equipment. I do them all the time on my sport bikes as well as my enduro race bike, so long as I have the right tools to hand & lots of tyre soap. They're also easy to balance when using my rig. The equipment has paid for itself after only a few tyre changes.

BTW. Maxxis & CST  (Chen Shin Tyres) are the same. I had a CS tyre on the front of my first bike, a CB125s & it was lethal in the wet & only marginally better in the dry, hence my change to Avons very shortly after I first started riding it back in '75.

59
CB750 / Re: CB750F3
« on: October 18, 2017, 08:10:15 PM »
I fitted S&W valve springs & machined up some new valve guides out of aluminium bronze for my 1978 CB750F2 back in '82. I had a custom reamer made for me by a local place. 6.6mm from memory & I still have it somewhere.
Hadleigh Custom down in south east Essex used to have a page in their catalogue about the differences between the F2 & the other 750 engines & how it was suggested that the valve collets should be replaced whenever they were removed. The catalogue also showed the difference in piston crown height with the F2 piston showing the substantial increase as the combustion chamber was increased in size to accomodate the bigger valves. The OEM head gasket showed that the combustion chamber was also elongated to a degree to get the bigger valves in.
I never had a problem with oil consumption except for when the bores were increased to take the bigger Yoshi 823 pistons which were 65mm if my memory serves me correctly. But when the barrels were bored out the operator of the boring bar didn't hone the bores to clearance, so the rough bores chewed the new piston rings up. Once home from Assen after attending the Dutch TT in '82 then I took the head & barrels off & had the bores honed correctly & installed new piston rings (I could do this easily as i'd modified the frame so that I could remove the top end of the engine without having to take the whole engine out).
I had played with fitting a Yoshi Road/Track cam but I also needed to change the carbs to more race ready items, which effectively held the development of more power back quite a bit. So I found a good condition standard F2 cam & had that ground to my own specification (one mm off the base circle, which increased lift & duration). The exhaust was more easily modified for better flow.
I installed Andrews high output coils, Boyer Bransden electronic ignition, NGK Gold paladium plugs. I also installed a Derale oil cooler, a Lockhart/Phillips oil cooler thermostat, an increased poundage oil pressure relief valve spring, a GL1000 oil filter housing, main jets from a CB750K7 & K&N individual air filters.

With modified gearing (one tooth less off each sprocket) it was faster than my brothers GS1000S, not only because of an increase in power but also because I modified the bike with parts that were a lot lighter than standard.

60
CB750 / Re: F2 replacement reg/rec
« on: April 04, 2017, 10:37:15 PM »
The rectifier & regulator on the F2 as standard are seperate units. Luckily the regulator is adjustable. Just attach a variable voltage PSU to the input & a multimeter to the output & adjust the screw so that you get a higher voltage before it trips over. Easy to do  ;)

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