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Messages - Yoshi823
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661
« on: November 20, 2009, 08:48:19 PM »
The bleed nipple (8mm AF) on the above calipers can be replaced with one from the CB250N Superdream item, which is 10mm AF.
662
« on: November 20, 2009, 08:41:19 PM »
Hi it is possible to replace the rev counter drive oil seal with the engine in the frame  cheers Mick.
Mine did need doing and I was really annoyed that it was not possible to do it in any other way other than to remove the engine.Hence the frame mod that I made.Photos to follow once downloaded onto photobucket.
663
« on: November 20, 2009, 08:33:17 PM »
Thanks for the reply.I live in Bexleyheath to be precise,but my 550F1 was stolen from outside of my flat when I lived in Bromley.
I did the very first Mayday Run in 1979,and it was good to see the 30th Anniversary ride go so successfully last year.I don't think that Hastings and Locksbottom have ever been the same since those first days.
I was lucky in those early days of owning a four cylinder bike...I worked at an engineering firm where I could use the lathes,milling machines and other worthwhile facilities to build my 750 up into the machine that you see in the photo above.And it was good fun as well.
I used a CB125s Honda for commuting at the first rebuild of the 750,but learnt from this and bought my 2nd CB550F1 for use as a commuter/runaround bike.This ended up being a worthwhile investment.
664
« on: November 19, 2009, 11:33:35 PM »
I think that the CB250/360G5 kickstart levers are the same.
665
« on: November 19, 2009, 11:32:17 PM »
As far as I can make out the front caliper from the CB250/360G5,the CJ250/360T and the 400F1/F2 are the same as for the CB500/550/750 late K/F1.
666
« on: November 19, 2009, 11:29:09 PM »
The hollow rear wheel spindle from a CB900FZ will fit the '77 CB750F2.
The fully adjustable 'FVQ' shocks from a CBX1000Z will also fit the '77 CB750F2.
667
« on: November 19, 2009, 11:13:25 PM »
When I had my 750F2 and a 550F1 I used the 750 shocks on the 550 and they worked very well.
I had these spare as I was using CBX1000Z shocks on my 750F2.
I have some photos somewhere of this time so i'll dig them out and post them here.
668
« on: November 19, 2009, 10:34:41 PM »
The CB750F2 OEM chain is a 630 'O' ring.This is the same as fitted to the GS1000.
I had a Regina chain on my 750F2...once. It lasted 1800 miles and had so many tight spots at the end of that time that I vowed never to buy or recommend the brand to anyone asking.
669
« on: November 19, 2009, 10:16:41 PM »
I use talc to indicate where oil leaks emanate from.Clean off the engine and apply talc (or that unused self-raising flour that is always bought but never used).
670
« on: November 19, 2009, 10:10:42 PM »
As there is +12v on the side of the neutral switch light,it is indeed the switch in the bottom of the crankcase that supplies the earth connection that lights the green light.
I would check the wiring from the loom to the crankcase switch.It sounds like an intermittant short somewhere.
671
« on: November 19, 2009, 09:48:35 PM »
The main switch is used to connect the red (+12v from the battery) to the black wire (+12v regulated circuits) in the 'ON' position.When the key switch is moved to the 'PARK' position the brown wires for the tail light and front pilot light is connected to the red wire.
On some bikes the black/white wire (ignition) is connected to the green (chassis earth) so as to deter people hotwiring the system.
672
« on: November 19, 2009, 09:31:19 PM »
Duckhams used to be in West Wickham in Kent.But I have not seen there product for a long time now.
I have only seen the fully and semi-synthetic bike oils in Halfords for a long time now.These are JASO labelled so they are ok for all Jap bikes.
673
« on: November 19, 2009, 09:17:05 PM »
It is normally the bleed nipple which shears off that causes the problems with these calipers.So there are probably a fair few old ones lurking about somewhere.
Pistons are easily sourced...stainless steel ones are recommended.I heard of someone who makes these to a drawing or from the original. I'll see if I can find the number/email address as he also renovates old and new calipers.
674
« on: November 19, 2009, 09:08:00 PM »
The 750 engine is one of the easiest engines to work on.
I recommend new valve guides made from aluminium/bronze to the standard lengths.Too short and the valves 'wobble' and cause back-to-front bore wear.
I also suggest that whenever anyone has an engine out of the frame to replace the tacho drive oil seal.When this leaks there is nothing that can be done except having the complete engine out...just for this very small seal.
I heard that the pistons and rings to use are the CB350 twin items.I think this takes them out to 65mm bore size and 836cc with a standard stroke....but don't quote me on this as I remember reading this a fair few years ago.
675
« on: November 19, 2009, 08:53:33 PM »
All CDI systems that I have ever come across have been DC supplied,as from the regulated 12v.
An EMS system is one that has an EMF or electro-motive force induced into the alternator windings.This has no touching parts but is quite bulky.
The PMS system is one that utilises brushes as a connection to the commutator.This is less bulky but requires more in the way of maintenance.
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