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Messages - Yoshi823
676
« on: November 19, 2009, 08:45:26 PM »
When about to invert the engine don't forget to have drained the oil before removing the engine.
The half-circip stops any sideways movement of the gear cluster shaft.It is easily mislaid and forgotten about and has been known to break.
677
« on: November 19, 2009, 08:38:20 PM »
I have been using either Halfords semi bike oil or the Hein Gericke semi bike oil for a long time now, with no problems on any of my bikes.
The only time that I use fully-synth is on my KTM enduro racer.
After a BIG problem with a pattern oil filter on my original 550F1 (it collapsed) I always specify Genuine Honda oil filters, no matter what people say.
678
« on: November 19, 2009, 08:29:14 PM »
Strange that Goodridge did not seem interested as they made up the lines for my dual disc setup on my 550 as well as for my 750F2.But in the days when stainless fittings were not available,I was supplied with cad plated...which I later regretted.Since then I have always advised people to buy stainless throughout.
On my 750F2 I specified two lines that went direct from the master cylinder to each caliper,bypassing the need for the splitter underneath the headlight.This meant only 7 copper washers,rather than the 11 that would normally be utilised.Less chance of a leak this way.With the advent of front brake light switches being on the master cylinder (on the 750F2) it does away with the need for the heavy and bulky hydraulic switch on the K and F1 variants.This is why a master cylinder from the F2 is ideal for anyone contemplating a doble disc upgrade on a K or F1 model.
679
« on: November 19, 2009, 08:17:11 PM »
I use a leak down tester to check where the problems are.This 'Sun' item compresses the relevant cylinder to be tested via the spark plug hole with the valves both closed.Then I listen out for escaping air in the airbox (inlet valves),the exhaust pipe end (exhaust valves) or the oil filler cap (on a 550) or a tappet cover on the 750 for there to be heard air escaping meaning a piston ring problem.The leakage is measured using a dial to see how the other cylinders compare.
But in this threads case it sounds more like carbs, as the fine sediment can get past the filters and is more likely to do with leaving the bike on it's sidestand is the reason why it started with cylinders 1 and 2,thwn number 3.
Check the primary jets as well as the air screw drillings.Clean using carb cleaner spray,easily available from Halfords.
As far as the dust in the tank is concerned,I made up an adapter from the house vacuum cleaner and connected it to the tank...and gave it a good shake about.Job done.
680
« on: November 19, 2009, 07:58:21 PM »
From what I remember there are some numbers on the rockers,but they are not relevant.But there are two types of rocker arm and will only fit in one place or the other.In the ideal case,for the wear surfaces to be the same,the correct rocker should be mated with the same cam lobe.When I install the rocker shafts and the rockers,I always turn the engine over until the cam lobes for say the inlet 1 and 2 are pointing down, then I slide the shaft through both rockers at the same time...with plenty of fresh oil.I always tension the cam chain when there are no rockers fitted,rather than 15 degrees after 1 & 4 timing mark with #1 on compression.
The markings that are relevant are the cam carrier caps as they are line bored at the factory during manufacturing.
Most 4 cylinder Jap bikes do run with was it commonly termed as a wasted spark system.This is normally recognised as those with only two coils for 4 cylinders.
Any coil has a certain rise time during which energy is transferred from the primary coil,which is that energy stored in the condenser on a standard SOHC 4,into the secondary wiring via an EMF,that being induced energy.The amount of time required for the transfer to fully energise the secondary windings is the rise time.As the output of standard Honda coils is relatively weak ie.about 6000 volts or 6kv,this is why a worthwhile modification is to install uprated Dyna coils.
Cars used to have a single coil together with a distributor system so would not utilise the wasted spark system.
Some more recent Jap fours utilise the 'coil-in-the-cap' system so as to save space in the frame for a bigger airbox.This is where the primary signal,derived from the ECU,is delivered to the coil on the top of the spark plug.
I had Andrews coils fitted to my 750/823 F2 and together with NGK D8EV plugs it made it very worthwhile.
The firing sequence on the Honda fours is the same as for the majority of modern Jap fours...as in 1-2-4-3. The bike that comes to mind that does not fire in this order is the new R1 that has the 'cross-plane' crankshaft.
681
« on: November 19, 2009, 07:17:35 PM »
When I had Comstars on my 750F2 I was told that the steel 'spokes' would interact with the alloy rim because of eletrolytic corrosion.The little black 'Honda' covers didn't help things as the mess was hidden out of sight.
682
« on: November 19, 2009, 07:07:39 PM »
A member of the VJMC is heavily into 750 Hondas.
683
« on: November 19, 2009, 07:06:03 PM »
I contacted Goodridge.They used my originals as the pattern and made up a set for me.They looked the biz.
684
« on: November 19, 2009, 06:57:34 PM »
Which engine mount bolts are you talking about?...there are a few of them. Or are you after a set?
685
« on: November 19, 2009, 01:05:22 AM »
Hi al... I bought my first of many SOHC4 engined Hondas back in 1978...and loved every minute of it. It was a CB550F1 in orange.But it was stolen from outside of my flat. So I bought a CB750F2 in 1979.But when I went to the Isle of Man in 1980 it was like everybody else had one as well. I'll dig out the photo albums and copy some piccies over as soon as I get a chance.  This was about 1985.I remember it quite well as my first daughter had not long been born.
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