Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: Johnny4428 on December 17, 2023, 08:44:25 PM
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After servicing the front Caliper and fitting new seal and pads, I couldn’t get the required clearance between the rear Caliper pad and disc. Backed the adjuster screw right out and still gripping the disc, making it difficult to move about in garage. I could see no option but to make and fit a shim between rear pad holder and brake Caliper arm. That fixed it now have the required clearance. Anybody had this problem before with pads?
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Check you haven’t fitted the wheel spindle in backwards. Iirc the lock nut fits to the left side, as in near the disc
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Also that plastic pad that sits behind the pad - mine was on the wrong side when I fitted my first set of pads
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Checked that Ted, that was one of my initial thoughts. I’ll check the wheel spindle Ken, I haven’t removed the wheel but that’s not to say a previous owner had incorrectly fitted it. Although I think my problem was clearance between both pads.
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Thought you were going to be “on the money” there Ken but just checked and the spindle is fitted correctly.
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Is the wheel bearing retainer on the left as well Johnny?
The reason I'm asking is that the pic appears to show the caliper carrier not directly above the disc, it should be. If the disc is fitted in the wrong place that would explain why the pads don't fit. Also remove the inner pad and see what width it is so others can compare to theirs.
Another problem I spotted on one set of pads was that the inner pad didn't sit flush to the carrier, due to the locating lug on the top not sitting correctly in the groove on the pad.
I've also got a couple of the rear carriers which are twisted, the pad wouldn't sit flush all the way round. It's been a while since I spotted that and I may be mistaken but there was some sort of alignment problem between the pad and the carrier.
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Thanks Ken, a few things to check out tomorrow. The rear brake pad did look to be incredibly thick! I will post tomorrow. Getting late for us early risers! 🥱🥱
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What make of pads did you fit?
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Had to cast my mind back Bryan, these were the pads I bought, they were that cheap there’s not even a pic!🫣
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Distinctly possible they are too thick then, i will see if i can find my nos vesrah set and measure them
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Does the piston push back into the caliper?
Sometimes the rubber seal loses its flexibility
So the pads can bind on the disc
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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Caliper been cleaned painted and new seal fitted John.
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Caliper been cleaned painted and new seal fitted John.
Does the pad move freely in the caliper?
Almost all the pads I have fitted, Needed paint removing from the circumference
Just straw clutching
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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Sorry John, yes free to move. The rear pad is 13mm thick, which includes the bonded metal part. And Ken, wheel bearing retainer is on the left (n/s). Think the photo makes it look like it’s not fitted right.
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Just measured my SBS ceramic rear pad and not including the lump on the back of the pad it's 12.7mm thick. I did fit it into a rear carrier and found the lump on the back made the pad rock, there's a corresponding lump on the carrier in the middle and I'm not exactly happy about the way it makes it rock, I may check my original Honda pads for the same lump, if it's not there I'll grind the lump off the back of the SBS pad.
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Mine is the same Ken, did wonder about grinding it off but it’s likely there for a reason. I’ll check the old pads that came out if they are still knocking about.
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The back of the old pad that came with the bike is just very slightly curved (convex). John was asking before if the pad was sliding freely in the Caliper which it certainly was when fitted but might have to check that out again to see if anything has been picked up to obstruct.
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I've a new Vesrah set. Near as dammit 13mm. They have a chamfer all round the abrasive face. So to start with only about 40mm dia of the 51mm will touch disc until it wears in. So no full braking until about 1.5mm wears off the face.
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It’s sorted! Would appear to be a blob of paint (or something) preventing the brake pad retracting fully inside the Caliper. Kicking myself that I missed that on assembly. Thanks all that commented, it is now set with the recommended clearance of 6 thou. Happy days.
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Got to be honest and say I've never set the back pad clearance with a feeler gauge, I always used to get the pad so you could just hear it touching the disc when the wheel was spun and then back off the adjustment screw until I couldn't. I'd check it again after the pads had bedded in, feeler blades IMO can be deceiving, you're just checking the highest point in some cases, ok after the pads have bedded in as the pad is flatter then.
I found proper bedding in gave much better results than just using the brakes as normal, which TBH is what most people do, they just fit them and use them. I robbed this from the SBS website many months ago now.
Do 15 gentle brakes from 30mph and then a 2 mile cool down followed by another 15 or so from around 45mph using moderating brake pressure followed by another 2 mile cool down run, then stop to see how the discs look. You should clearly see pad transfer, it's a sort of blue/grey mist on the surface of the disc. Then do 15-20 full on braking sessions from around 65-75mph dropping the speed down really quickly but rolling off when around 10mph and then back up to speed again, followed by a 5 mile cool down run.
I've paraphrased that process a little.
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Ken that is good advice on brake bedding in, I actually followed that routine for the K3 following a previous post you had written. I will do the same again when the weather permits. Made a considerable difference on the K3.
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Forgot to mention the existing brake pad transfer film on the disc surface must be removed when you fit new pads. Brake cleaner or a light sanding.
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Never thought about that Ken but I see why you would do that.
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When I worked in the car trade not only did we give customers a written advice about bedding in disc brakes but also tyres for the first 100 miles.
I remember most new cars back in the 1960's having running in stickers in the rear windows.
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Never thought about that Ken but I see why you would do that.
I believe it's so the pad and the transfer material are the same, makes sense when you think about it. I preferred a light sanding to brake cleaner, scuffs up the disc surface as well making the bedding in process easier and faster IMO.
I remember the running in stickers as well Ted.