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Topics - stoutgoose
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1
« on: December 28, 2023, 07:16:42 PM »
Hello all. Before I go back to Silver’s and ask for clarification, has anyone else fitted the Daytona ignition kit? The reason I ask is that it states in the instructions that on set up, you should connect the black wire to the rear brake switch feed. I’m assuming this is to provide a 12v earthed supply.
However it didn’t state whether this needs to be disconnected and then connected to an earth or something else.
Any ideas?
2
« on: November 22, 2023, 01:31:05 PM »
I’m looking for a single float bowl, ideally number 3/4, for my 1977 CB750 K7.
Fitted to Keihin PD41 carbs (and possibly others) fitted to the K7 and F2.
Many thanks.
3
« on: October 31, 2023, 07:35:17 PM »
I'm wondering if I have a wet-sumping issue.
The bike emits a reasonable puff of oil smoke when revved reasonably hard (over 4000 rpm) on the stand. Friends also mention they can smell oil when trailing me, with a small puff visible, but no oil smoke on overrun.
I rebuilt the engine about 5000 miles ago, which included new valve guides, valves, and valve stem oil seals. The bores were in spec, as were the pistons and ring end gaps, so I honed the barrels but nothing more.
I did not replace the oil return stopper in the oil pump because I couldn't find a seal kit, and now I am beginning to wonder if it is this that could be contributing to the oil smoke.
The oil tank level doesn't deplete significantly, however when I drained the sump today, over 1.5 litres of oil came out from just the sump. I started and ran the bike and then measured the oil level which was now at the bottom of the dipstick, so I added another 1.5 litres and this brought it halfway up the dipstick.
I took the bike for a good blast with some hard acceleration and WOT at times. Back home, the oil level remained at halfway, and when I drained the sump again about 3 hours later, 1.5 litres of oil was again extracted.
Is this a normal amount to be expected to be contained in the sump of a '78 750?
4
« on: May 07, 2020, 09:35:55 AM »
First start since rebuild and within a a couple of minutes running oil starts dribbling from the head above the gasket line from between cylinders 2 and 3. A small pool had formed within a few seconds.
Scanning the forum, I found a old post below that mentions using the domed nuts and copper washers on studs 5-8. During the rebuild I put in ARP studs and the nuts that came with them which were for the F2 yet didn't have domed ones. Also, I don't recall any of the washers being copper. Irritatingly, there was no mention in the manual about either copper washers or the import of the domed nuts.
My question is this; how can so much oil come from this area, and has anyone else experienced this? I'll be removing the engine to rectify this but am worried it may be something else as well.
Old thread:
"hya there serge, to help you understand, look at your f3 head, there are only four oil return holes...
Each "pair" of valves share one hole, whereas on the k series heads,there is a return oil hole next to EVERY valve.....
Be VERY VERY carefull that you do TWO THINGS RIGHT. Down at the crankcases BEFORE you put the barrels on, make sure you have installed the four tiny "o" rings on the studs that do not have the knock pins, I believe from memory these are labelled 5,6,7and 8 in the tightening sequence, but NOT IN EVERY MANUAL!! ( I have two manuals that show different tightening sequences!)
The purpose of these "O" rings on the studs is two-fold, the stop oil rising up the way AND believe it or not (BUT ITS ABSOLUTELY TRUE!!) they stop water and weather from entering down the way so to speak, this can be proved by looking at your cylinder head in a moment!
IF, you take a screwdriver or other probing device (but not your personal tool so to speak) and poke it down "those" (5,6,7and8) stud HOLes ON YOUR CYLINDER HEAD, AND LOOK through the fins, "OH MY GOD" YOU MAY WELL EXCLAIM, "why can i see my screwdriver?"
You will then be in the enviable position of being in the f2/3 "know" This is because "those" holes are not fully enclosed like in the k series, and should you forget OR neglect to replace those copper washers and domed nuts with new copper washers OR put the domed nuts on the wrong studs, you WILL get oil pissing out between the fins when the motor is started.........MORE THAN ONE person has experienced this! ( including me!) and I now have a mission to stop other people from the pain this causes!!
If ever you get the chance to see UNDERNEATH the barrells of a k and an f2/3 side by side, DO IT!
If ever you get the chance to see a k series AND f2/3 series head side by side DO IT!
Only close inspection reveals the differences and its well worth the looking and then the knowing!
kindest of regards,
kaceyf2"
5
« on: February 23, 2020, 06:45:30 PM »
1978 CB750 F2.
I am rebuilding the engine and having the head and cylinder block lightly skimmed by approximately .005" in order to ensure they are totally flat and prepare them for a MLS gasket.
My question; standard Honda head gasket is .040", and the base gasket .010".
The replacement gaskets I have are from CycleX and are of the same dimensions as above. I plan to add an additional .010" base gasket and reduce the head dowels as necessary in order to maintain the standard Honda specs of .050" total, however can anyone tell me what the minimum clearance that can be used is? Must it be .050" or can I use the single .010" base and .040" head gaskets?
I have posted this on the SOHC 4 forum as well.
Many thanks.
6
« on: December 18, 2019, 10:40:29 PM »
I have a nice looking steering lock but no key. Is there any way of determining the key number?
Failing that, what is the process for replacing a steering lock sans key?
7
« on: December 12, 2019, 10:05:54 AM »
Morning all. Is there a definitive list of F2 frame numbers and production dates? I cannot find any link that works.
I am trying to work out the production date of my F2 which was registered in December 1979, but seems to have an earlier frame number; CB750G1013379.
Any assistance and direction welcome.
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