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Messages - 71 V12
16
« on: June 08, 2020, 05:55:51 PM »
Hi Andy,
Many thanks for the update, it sounds like the effort and cost is well worthwhile.
I need a day or so to complete the job on my K4, your information has been very helpful and great motivation👍👍
Regards,
17
« on: June 08, 2020, 09:28:44 AM »
Hi Andy,
Did you get a chance to ride since the twin disc upgrade?
Interested to know your impression of the brake performance.
Regards,
Kevin
18
« on: April 24, 2020, 12:33:05 PM »
Thanks for the replies and comments.
With respect to the use of a GL1000 master cylinder. Having only just recently had my original master cylinder re-anodised I would wish to continue using it but clearly if it proved not provide the necessary braking force then I would look to replace it with a GL1000 or similar version.
As indicated, there would appear to be two lengths of the Z900 brake hose, one is the same length as the Honda one and one is slightly longer, see attached. Fortunately the one I had was the longer one. However, the std Honda one may be OK? It depends on how you intend to secure the hose. As I wanted to use the original hose brk I needed a slightly longer hose another type of retention may allow the std Honda hose to be used?
With respect to the GL1000 disc bolts. I think you will find that they are no longer available new, see attached. I bought mine s/h from DK or Two Wheeled Spares on e-bay, see attached,together with the caliper and caliper brks etc. They currently still have a number of sets available. I was fortunate with the the bolts and plate I bought as the bolts were as new and the plate reusable, so you need to look at the photos carefull or ask them to give a condition status before purchase.
Hi Andy, I ordered the GL1000 bolts from DK which I received today, and as with you in as new condition 👍👍👍 Do you have a Kawasaki part number or application for the longer brake hose? Many thanks, Kevin
19
« on: April 20, 2020, 05:05:36 PM »
Well done Andy,
That looks very tidy, nice job👍👍 I agree with your comment about the symmetry, does look better.
Do you have the part number for the GL1000 disc bolts? I guess they are available from DS? Good tip on the flex hose as well.
Need to get back to mine when I complete the huge list of DIY projects currently taking priority.
Let us know how effective the conversion is.
Cheers,
Kevin
20
« on: February 29, 2020, 06:48:31 PM »
Simples, well done👍👍👍👍
21
« on: February 26, 2020, 08:40:57 PM »
Neat job Andy.
Any thoughts on how to insert the olive into its new location?
Cheers,
Kevin
22
« on: February 12, 2020, 04:38:46 PM »
Hi Andy,
Visually the inlets look the same. The only difference that I can see is the hole at the bottom of the inlet on the brake pipe side is about 0.5mm bigger than the bleed inlet to allow for the olive insert.
Therefore to fit the olive in the bleed inlet that hole would need to careful enlarged. I guess you would want The olive to be a slight interference fit and perhaps a small tab of thread lock to seal it well.
Having said all of this, I really hope that the pipe will seal with right brake tube nut and OP1 flare.
23
« on: February 12, 2020, 12:01:28 PM »
I would like the conversion to look as near as possible a mirror of the left brake. I therefore hope to use the rear Caliper inlet for the brake pipe on the new right side brake, if that makes sense.
Plan A is to try a long brake tube nut that is not fully threaded as in the image above with the OP1 (bubble flare). If this seals great, job done.
If not
Plan B drill the rear Caliper port on the right Caliper and fit the removed olive which will clean up and use the OE brake nut and OP2 double flare.
Not sure why Bryan has a preference for cunifer, Honda used steel as do all other vehicle producers to this day. I think the surface coating may be better these days to prevent corrosion.
Anyway still at the parts gathering and refurbishing stage. I have most of the parts and fixings now except the brake line wire fixing bracket, but I will leave this until I’m into the job and can review the viable options.
24
« on: February 11, 2020, 06:33:46 PM »
This is brake pipe flare and long M10 x 1.25 tube nut I will try.
25
« on: February 11, 2020, 06:26:18 PM »
The internal dimension of the brake line inlet on the Caliper is identical to bleed nipple inlet except the port to the piston chamber is approx 0.5 mm larger. As Bryan mentions it is not threaded all the way. The thread is 1.25mm pitch.
Photo of the olive below.
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26
« on: February 11, 2020, 04:39:54 PM »
The seat is the same as the bleed valve side. As I mentioned I am hoping that a bubble flare will seal without the need for the unobtainium olive.
27
« on: February 11, 2020, 03:05:17 PM »
Hi Sprinta,
I am in the process of gathering the parts to add a right disc to my 750 K4. A second hand Caliper and arm cost me £50 and a disc £20. The Yamiya Caliper and arm is £350 ish plus shipping and duties and looks like K0/1 type to me.
There is a olive of some type in the Caliper in the pipe location. I have removed it by threading it and pulling it out with a screw. I am planning to make brake pipe with a bubble flare and a long M10 tube nut. Hopefully this will seal.
The other issue I can see is securing the steel brake pipe to flexible to the mudguard. The left side has a correctly bent wire welded to the mudguard. Not sure yet what to do for the right side. Maybe a K0/1 type bracket can be adapted.
The conversion is far from straight forward. Where are you at with the job?
Cheers,
Kevin
28
« on: October 27, 2019, 09:40:02 AM »
I am still running on the Honda points ignition system as I find reliable and requiring very little maintenance. I use strobe timing now and saw a significant improvement over the bulb method. I also have set the points gap with feeler gauges but I can see a more accurate setting would be achieved with the dwell accurately measured.
Is anyone on the forum using a dwell meter? If so which brand and from where
Many thanks,
Kevin
29
« on: April 03, 2019, 07:22:48 PM »
Many thanks for the tips, very helpful. I have just compared the adespin’s photo with my current set up and they look higher and like they extend about 2” further out, so at £13.99 ordered  This forum is such a fantastic resource, thanks again for taking the time to post your experiences👍👍
30
« on: April 03, 2019, 12:43:36 PM »
At 6’3” and a 48” chest the standard mirrors ain’t designed to see around my bulk  Anyone experience of a suitably period mirror (don’t need to be OE replicas) with longer than OE stems? I am using European spec bars which are nice and comfy, I just can’t see behind me. Cheers Kevin
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