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Messages - Oldbuthopeful
1
« on: March 05, 2013, 10:11:29 AM »
Thanks K2-K6 for the lucid explanation. I'll give it a go in a day or two and report on progress.
2
« on: March 04, 2013, 08:29:31 PM »
Sorry to be the one to bring this debate back down to earth!!!..................... I was about to appeal for help with a similar problem when I came across all these words of wisdom and thought my prayers had been answered without having to put the question.
Not so. All this talk of weights and air gaps leaves me floundering. All I need to know is - how many fl.ozs. of ATF should I top up my 350F
with after having drained each leg via the drain plug? My Clymer manual says 4.2ozs per leg, but when I poured in the measured amount, I found I had almost no travel on the forks. So I deduce that 4.2ozs is too much. Could this in fact be the amount needed when filling the legs from empty after a stripdown?
When I had my 550, I seem to remember Mr Haynes giving figures for both 'filling from empty' and 'topping up'.
Has anyone by any chance got comparable figures for the 350Four please?
3
« on: February 09, 2013, 03:59:25 PM »
My experience when registering my US Import 350Four was much the same as others have related except I went along the VJMC dating route for the age related plate. The VJMC letter cost me nothing as I'd joined the club but it was interesting to read a comment on here suggesting that with a club letter you may be asked to present the bike for inspection whereas with a Honda Motor Co. letter you may not. Dead right ! Having gone through the Local DVLA Office procedure, produced all the forms and paid my hard earned, I was asked to bring the bike in for the Examiner to inspect. (When I built a Norton 650SS in the 70's the Examiner came to the house, but all that seems to have changed).
When I got the bike to the DVLA Office (in a hired van with driver - I needed the muscle to get it in and out of the van!) the actual inspection took a mere 2 minutes. But here's the point. What most interested the Examiner was the frame number and, because I'd had the frame powder coated, it had been all but obliterated. Fortunately, I'd refixed the manufacturers plate on the headstock and the stamped numbers on the frame were just about visible (but not readable). I was told that they'd accept it only because the bike had obviously been restored to a high standard but it was touch and go.
So, the message is - if you're having your frame powder coated I suggest you ask the guy doing the job to cover over the stamped frame numbers before applying the powder coating. Alternatively, carefully scrape off the finished coating to reveal the numbers - you can re-coat the bare metal with a dab of paint on a small brush. It might just save some 'job's-worth'
Examiner from giving you a 'fail' instead of a 'pass' .
4
« on: January 16, 2013, 01:35:58 PM »
Thanks Totty! I've just ordered one on your recommendation. It looks the business. I suppose an alternative might be a window scraper with a trapezium(?) shaped blade in, but not so easy to get between the skirts.
You've obviously had the same problem Mickwinf - thanks for the suggestion though.
5
« on: January 16, 2013, 10:18:28 AM »
Thanks for that Bryanj. Looks like I'll just have to knuckle down to it then !
6
« on: January 15, 2013, 11:39:40 PM »
Way back in June last year, andy_c asked if anyone had any advice on removing a cylinder base gasket but nobody seems to have offered a solution.
I've got the same problem on my 350/4 - it's as though the gasket is part of the block, it's so hard and difficult to remove.
I suppose it's been baked on.
I'm tempted to leave it in place, but would kick myself for not having tried to get it off if there were any leaks after I'd got it all back together. I've tried a really sharp chisel, but it's ball-achingly slow and there's the risk of scoring the base of the barrel.
Can anybody help please ?
7
« on: January 10, 2013, 08:52:48 PM »
Thanks Bryanj. I've not come across the Oxford product in my search but have in fact just found a whopping great
padlock called Lox on Ebay. It has a shackle dimension of 72mm and is shown fitted to a disc, albeit on a modern bike.
I'm about to fire off a question to the sellers asking for the 'shoulder' measurement - critical because there's so little
room between the back face of the disc and the spokes, low down towards the spindle where the lock would have to be fitted. I'll let you know how I get on - might be following-up the Oxford!
8
« on: January 10, 2013, 12:18:04 AM »
Can anybody out there recommend a lock for the front disc on my 350Four? Hauling the conventional lock and chain around is a bit of a chore !
9
« on: September 05, 2012, 12:21:04 PM »
Be brilliant Oddjob if you could spare the time to look at my 550.
I don't know whether I'm set up on here for you to PM me. Could you give it a try ?
10
« on: August 27, 2012, 12:02:21 AM »
Amazin' Oddjob. We could almost open the window and shout ! I'm back of Harrytown, down Clapgate.
I bought a set of Davida gauges off Ebay a while back but never used them 'cause I couldn't be arsed setting
up a temporary fuel tank thingy. You're welcome to borrow them if you want.
As I said earlier, I'm hoping to get the 550 up and running again tomorrow so will give you a shout if there's no improvement.
11
« on: August 26, 2012, 08:04:55 PM »
Done, Steve D.
Oddjob, a great offer but I don't like to impose. I'm in Romiley, Stockport.
Incidentally, didn't get to Bakewell because the rains started as I approached Chapel-en-le-Frith and I didn't fancy getting a soaking !
The 550's going back together again tomorrow so will post an update after a road test.
12
« on: August 26, 2012, 01:20:04 AM »
You're right Lester Piglet, they look nothing like yours ! After taking out the (new) mainjet and removing the
throttle slide and the needle, all I'm left with is the little jobby on the right of the picture, which I drifted out
with a suitable bolt. It looks to me as though I've got different spec carbs on my 550K3 or am I still showing
my ignorance ?
I was really looking forward to finding something that was gummed up and would have made all the difference
to the bike's running once I'd cleaned it !
So it's back on with the carbs again and set about using Oddjob's spit test for leaky induction seals unless someone
tells me different.
DC
13
« on: August 25, 2012, 12:00:20 AM »
Sorry not to have replied sooner, Andy C. Just returned from hols.
The 'stop' is almost entirely home grown. The arm was cut from a washing machine packing plate and bent in the vice,
appropriately drilled then sprayed with 3 coats of Hammerite gloss black. The actual bump stop was picked up off Ebay,
described as 'rubber mount, buffer, foot, stop, bumper, damper item No. 120956290072 (sorry, can't do those fancy
links!) - 2 for £3.40. It comes with a bonded-in 6mm threaded bolt just the right length.
I only used one so the other is yours if you want it.
Oh, and I used a longer pinch bolt with a piece of 15mm copper tube as a spacer to lift the arm to the correct height.
DC
14
« on: August 19, 2012, 03:51:44 PM »
Thanks for that Les. The carbs are now back on the bike but when I get back off hols I'll have them off again
and search out those tubes. If mine are anything like those in your pic, they'll sure benefit from a good going over.
I'll report back in about 10 days time.
Could I just trouble you to explain whether they push up or down to extricate ? Forgive my dimness, I don't know
my way around these things like you guys. Ever thought of publishing a Haynes- type manual between you ?!
DC
15
« on: August 19, 2012, 12:11:40 AM »
Thanks Oddjob, much appreciated !
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