Post by: JustcallmeMrT on April 14, 2015, 08:26:42 PM
Also, how tight should spokes be?
Post by: JamesH on April 14, 2015, 08:27:46 PM
Post by: csd4t on April 14, 2015, 08:31:48 PM
Well within tolerance, MOT is +- 1.5mm if my memory serves me correctly.
Post by: Trigger on April 14, 2015, 08:36:25 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on April 14, 2015, 09:37:16 PM
Post by: Trigger on April 14, 2015, 09:54:35 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on April 14, 2015, 09:56:46 PM
Post by: Trigger on April 14, 2015, 09:59:51 PM
Post by: csd4t on April 14, 2015, 10:38:21 PM
Post by: Lobo on April 15, 2015, 11:37:58 AM
I seem to remember reading somewhere (!) 01mm was fine for speeds up to 80mph.
Oh, and "wow" to your 0.2mm.... my DSS DID rims welds were more than this!
Simon.
............Do this enough times until you are happy with your work, then gradually go around tightening the spokes. They don’t need to be death tight. There are lots of them and they all need to share the work equally. As you rotate the wheel strike the spokes lightly with you spanner. They should start to give a nice crisp ‘ding’ not a dull ‘thud’ or an over tightened ‘ping’. Get a soft-faced mallet and go around the wheel and give every spoke a light wack. This will settle the spokes, one might have been tightened up with a slight bow in it. A gentle knock with the hammer will spring it into line and it will now probably have a dull thud to it when struck with your tuning spanner. By now the wheel should be pretty close to being right. Keep checking offset, checking radial runout, and checking axil runout
Time for a cuppa or a beer. Come back later after the nerves have settled, run around it with the tuning spanner, ding, ding, dong, ding and give it that final touch……….. Should be pretty right after all that.
Finishing
If your keen enough, you can now check your work with a dial gauge. Most motorcycle manuals specify a maximum runout figure of 2mm or .080 in. You should easily get a new rim well under 1mm or .040 in. An old re-laced rim would still come somewhere near 1 mm or .040 in unless it had a bit of a woof in it. Put the rim band on, fit your tyre and make sure the bead sits down properly and you have correct air pressure. Put the fully assembled wheel back up in your jig and give it a slow spin and see how it goes for balance. Static balancing a wheel is another easy job that makes a lot of difference to the performance of the bike. You can buy proper wheel weights that either stick onto the rim or clamp around the spoke. You can cut strips of lead and wrap them around the spokes or cut strips of lead and stick them to the rim with silicon.
Spin the wheel slowly and wait for it to come to rest. Mark the top of the tyre with chalk. Spin the wheel slowly again and see if it stops in the same place. Add some lead weight to the top of the wheel by wrapping it around a spoke or by taping it to the rim. Spin the wheel again. Repeat this and add or subtract weights until the wheel takes a long time to stop turning and will stop in any position. Fix the lead weights properly to the rim. If you wrap strips of lead around the spokes, wrap electricians tape or similar around the windings. Stick the strips to the rims with silicon and tape over the weights until the silicon has set. Fit wheel to bike.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on April 15, 2015, 12:20:25 PM
Post by: Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) on April 15, 2015, 01:48:47 PM
Cheers
Bitsa
Post by: Trigger on April 15, 2015, 09:25:10 PM
Post by: peterengland on April 20, 2015, 05:22:14 PM