Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: Moorey on November 30, 2022, 07:32:36 PM
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Can anyone tell me how many ohms the primaries are on just the coil for a 1977 GL 1000k2 are. The coil is a tec FL101 part# 30502371003
I seem to be getting a lot of conflicting info.
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I am at work till 6am but will check my genuine book for you tomorrow
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Cheers Bryan.
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Assuming it's not a CDi ignition I think GL1000 Goldwings had a coil combined with a ballast resistor. So expect a much lower primary resistance than the standard 'Honda-4" coils. From memory it should be around 2.7 Ohms and the ballast resistor about the same. But Bryan's manual will hopefully confirm this. All I am really saying is that if you encounter a low resistance reading (around half of the 4-5 Ohms for a Honda 4 coil) then don't worry, chances are it's OK.
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Assuming it's not a CDi ignition I think GL1000 Goldwings had a coil combined with a ballast resistor. So expect a much lower primary resistance than the standard 'Honda-4" coils. From memory it should be around 2.7 Ohms and the ballast resistor about the same. But Bryan's manual will hopefully confirm this. All I am really saying is that if you encounter a low resistance reading (around half of the 4-5 Ohms for a Honda 4 coil) then don't worry, chances are it's OK.
All I seem to be able to find in the manual is test it in the coil tester. Ballast resistor 3ohms. I just seem to be finding lots of contradicting info and coils listed from 2 t0 5 0hms listed for the GL1000.
I am trying to find out for someone else. Thanks for your input Ash.
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My book wasnt where i thought it was, i have abother at a mates house so can get the info sat
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Sorry, quick-high jack, sorry!
Bryan, did you get a chance to measure up that suzuki mudguard mate? I'm not pestering as I guess you're dead buy leading up to Crimbo etc? More of a reminder if you get a sec. Thanks again mate, you're a good un.
Sorry, carry on,................Coil info coming on saturday etc..... ;) :)
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Roo, not had time yet, going norf to visit fambly mate.
The only book i have access to at moment is GL 1200 which is electronic and that says 2.3 to 3.0 ohms, i will continue looking for the 1000 book
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If it helps the overview for OP, electronic equipped makes use of low ohm rating because they can control the switched on time, dwell, on a fixed time basis and irrespective of engine rpm.
Points based systems have dwell in angles of crank but with it changing/shortening as revs rise on time basis. Too low ohm rating leaves the coils on too long during low rpm if they are paired.
Low ohms rating on points may overheat coils in drawing too much from supply at low rpm. High ohms on electronic may give high rpm compromise as it remains not fully saturated when supply is terminated to fire plugs.
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Big problem with the 1000 was they had 9v ballasted coils to get better spark for starting, like 70' fords and vauxhalls
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If it helps the overview for OP, electronic equipped makes use of low ohm rating because they can control the switched on time, dwell, on a fixed time basis and irrespective of engine rpm.
Points based systems have dwell in angles of crank but with it changing/shortening as revs rise on time basis. Too low ohm rating leaves the coils on too long during low rpm if they are paired.
Low ohms rating on points may overheat coils in drawing too much from supply at low rpm. High ohms on electronic may give high rpm compromise as it remains not fully saturated when supply is terminated to fire plugs.
The bike is still on the points system.
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Big problem with the 1000 was they had 9v ballasted coils to get better spark for starting, like 70' fords and vauxhalls
The ballast resistor is within spec Bryan. I have asked the same question on a couple of Wing forums and a Wing FB page but no responses on the
actual coil readings
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It is so rare for coils to fail electrcaly that i cant remember a set! the wires do get old but Ash'fix cures that.
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Would the information so far on here suggest that the coil will be 9v /2ohm making a running system of coil plus ballast switched by points at combined nominal 5ohm in continuous state?
Then that would produce 12v (over capacity) 2ohm "hot" coil via supply route when starting as it's usual to temporarily eliminate the ballast resistor through start switching to enhance immediate firing.
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It is so rare for coils to fail electrcaly that i cant remember a set! the wires do get old but Ash'fix cures that.
I was really unlucky my original K2 was just over a year old back in 1979 when both coils suddenly failed leaving me stranded, so it can happen.
On my current K2 I went to a Dyna electronic system with Dyna 3 ohm coils and bypassed the ballast resistor. Been in place for 4 years and never missed a beat.
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Both coils failing at the same time points more to a power supply problem than a coil one, probably a kill switch problem.
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Yes I checked over everything at the time but could not find an issue. Replaced the coils with new and the bike ran great for the next three years before I sold it, still around today from DVLA records.
Just very unlucky I think. Worst part was getting a tow from my Dad in his MK2 escort home. Scariest thing I have ever done on a bike, going round corners the car was pulling me over. Madness of youth, but at the time getting someone to transport the bike home was very difficult and the garage I had bought it from (Rogersons of Orell) were not interested at all as the bike was out of warranty.
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Oh yes the madness of youth - my late father towed me with a rope from Grimsby to Sutton on Hill, Derby back in 1968 when my Mini broke down due to a snapped oil pump drive. To make it extra scary it was winter!
Only had a bike tow once for about 3 miles when my Triumph 21 refused to start - that was 3 miles to many.🫣🫣🫣
Tow vehicle was an Aerial Leader,
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I would suggest the coil problem Ken was the connector that feeds the coils next to the coils, as soon as you disturbed it it started to work again and plugging new coils into that connector meant it was fine again.
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No in testing once I had the coils off the bike they were completely dead no output at all. I spent a lot of time at the roadside and at home working through connections etc. I had enough knowledge by then to realise I had no spark but was still getting power to the coils and a switching input from the points system.
With a new set of coils the bike fired right up.
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Odd, both at the same time? Never heard of before.
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Alright fellas, I bought a pair of these 2 years ago and just had one go dead on me.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391648128024?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=jB7g0RZOSta&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=SvEr97QAR_K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
They sell the same generic one (reads 4ohms) for multiple listings.
Have just asked for a refund.. you never know
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Try restoring an old oil using the Ash method. Far more reliable and a good sense of satisfaction when you fix on destined for the bin.