Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => SOHC Singles & Twins => Topic started by: Johnwebley on November 24, 2022, 07:11:44 PM
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I am have problems trying to get my 200 to run above 6K,
basically the air cleaners are unavailable,the originals were caked with dirt,although the bike ran OK,it was rich at high revs.
I tried to sort it by ripping out the card/fibre board ,replaced by foam,then the problems started,
seem to run ok below 6K,and small throttle opening,.
using standard needle,if I lift it one groove,it runs rich low down,
so I increased the MJ in various stages to 110,from 88,,but will not run at full throttle above 6k,or rev past 6k,
still seems lean,
any ideas?
I know it has a long inlet tract,how does this effect it?
I suspect it is the pulses,and pressure waves to help fill the cylinder,
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Long inlet tract is to harmonise at lower rpm to improve torque there. Short inlet is usually focused at the screamer end of response.
That shouldn't have any affect on jetting from standard though as it obviously comes equipped in such a way.
Puzzled why it seems like it needs more fuel though.
Confident of ignition advance operating fully ? It'll not rev without that.
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the advance seems ok
,seems ok,opens easily when twisted by hand
will check when the sun next shines
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Not exactly want you need to see John but.
https://classic-bikes.de/en/honda-luftfilter-satz-17200-354-005-3
Might solve the problem but bloody hell that's expensive.
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Not exactly want you need to see John but.
https://classic-bikes.de/en/honda-luftfilter-satz-17200-354-005-3
Might solve the problem but bloody hell that's expensive.
Bloody hell,glad I amsitting!!!
looks like around £100 each plus VAT !!!!
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True. BUT, at least it's a pair and it could solve the problem and why oh why did Honda not make the filter seperate from the housing, that's just so stupid.
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agreed
I wonder how many they sell nearly 50 years after original manufacture
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agreed
I wonder how many they sell nearly 50 years after original manufacture
You could try covering with stretchy fleece material John, just to assess what some level of resistance will give you. I've run this type of arrangement in really dusty conditions to cover the original filter material and prevent quick clogging (could be just pulled off and washed) which filtered pretty effectively.
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Have you seen this John https://www.hondatwins.net/threads/cb200-air-filter-refurb-query.1440/
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Have you seen this John https://www.hondatwins.net/threads/cb200-air-filter-refurb-query.1440/
yes,tried that,purchased several lots of air filter foam,used a hot glue gun to assemble it,oiled the foam,
not really worked,
hence the desperation
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Many of the car type are pleated paper that could be cut to size in replication.
Something like range rover 3.9 89/92 yrs is a non structured type of mostly paper that's only held in place by airbox structure and may be suitable to cut.
Or visiting local auto factors to see if you can find a suitable donor.
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Looks like this
[attachimg=1]
Don't think they're expensive either.
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Not exactly want you need to see John but.
https://classic-bikes.de/en/honda-luftfilter-satz-17200-354-005-3
Might solve the problem but bloody hell that's expensive.
OK,I have succumbed,
cost so far not to bad,
I expect to have to pay about £40 duty plus handling charge to DHL,
jeez,
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John, there was a feature in Classic Bike Guide a couple of months ago and written by Steve Cooper of VJMC fame. He is restoring a Yamaha 125 twin and needs new air filters that are unobtainable. He made his own filters and he runs through exactly how to do it. As long as you still have the end plates of your original filter it's quite easy to make. He gives details of the suppliers of the bits you need to make them. All very similar to the idea put forward by Nigel in his reply above.
Making them yourself will be a lot cheaper. You can get copies of CBG via the Mortons website.
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Thanks Dave,
I shall check that out ,
My 125 Yam uses two foam doughnuts over a centre intake in an airbox,
that works OK
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after much pondering,playing,testing
Ihave come to the conclusion ,it an ignition issue,
all my other bikes have electronic ignition,this still has damn points,one set and two lobes on the cam,rub at half engine speed.
set the gap at the lower end of the range,massive improvement,
need an electrical engineer to explain how the gap/dwell etc works with a twin plug coil.
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Dwell is the overall descriptor for the amount of time the points are closed, which is filling the coils with energy.
The "time" element is what the coils see as it's just the amount of time it takes to replenish that coil at that resistance, with the volts available.
Dwell is expressed in angle/degrees rotation of cam, setting the points gives a specific angle of geometry that the points are closed for.
Now it gets more interesting as when that angle is set, then when revs go up the angle remains the same but with time now shorter the faster you go. Meaning the coils fill less, because they only "see" time connected to supply.
Closing points gap makes dwell too long technically, but lengthens the time available to fill the coil, at the same rpm.
Good electronic system can just control the time only, and regardless of rpm. So coil saturation is constant from low to high.
If you close the points gap to minimum and set plugs also to absolute minimum spec gap, then it should have the best performing spark output for that system.
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It can be seen also a different result by use of different coil primary resistance to change characteristics, usually to the detrimental though.
If our systems use 5 Ohms resistance it requires a longer time to fill than a 3 Ohms coil. Putting a 3 Ohms coil into a points system may have advantages at constant high rpm (as the dwell time shortens it can still meet the fill requirements) but at constant low speed the coil is now reaching saturation and then some, causing too much draw and potentially overheating the coil.
So you're stuck with aggregated performance over the rpm range in reality, works OK usually though.
Full electronic in concisely controlling the "dwell" characteristics in fixed time only can make use of whatever their system's designer specifically incorporates.
As example;- a V8 with single coil and firing 4 times a revolution can use a 1.5 Ohms coil with attendant dwell characteristic provided by the electronic switching to help with fill and replenish cycle that are overall shorter to fit in with that firing demand.
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Works exactly same as a single output coil, on a single output one end of the secondary is grounded the other to the plug, on a twin both ends go to plugs
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thank you gentlemen,
it is a new coil listed for the CB200,
using 25thou plug gap,
a great improvement on before,
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It can be seen also a different result by use of different coil primary resistance to change characteristics, usually to the detrimental though.
If our systems use 5 Ohms resistance it requires a longer time to fill than a 3 Ohms coil. Putting a 3 Ohms coil into a points system may have advantages at constant high rpm (as the dwell time shortens it can still meet the fill requirements) but at constant low speed the coil is now reaching saturation and then some, causing too much draw and potentially overheating the coil.
So you're stuck with aggregated performance over the rpm range in reality, works OK usually though.
Full electronic in concisely controlling the "dwell" characteristics in fixed time only can make use of whatever their system's designer specifically incorporates.
As example;- a V8 with single coil and firing 4 times a revolution can use a 1.5 Ohms coil with attendant dwell characteristic provided by the electronic switching to help with fill and replenish cycle that are overall shorter to fit in with that firing demand.
does anyone know the resistance of the original coil?
the one I have is 4.7ohm,
another is available at4.2,
the bike runs well up to just over 6k.. then cuts out,
could the points be bouncing?
these old fashions gubbins are not easy to sort
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Err, the ohmic value is the resistive, self limiting current characteristic of the coil, which for all intents and purposes permits a steady DC current to flow following a very short time constant . The coil doesn’t ‘charge up’ as such. The HT voltage produced is simply a function of the coil inductance, which creates a back EMF(voltage) as a function of Ldi/dt. In other words the faster the current collapses the bigger the spark as a function of the coil transformation ratio. ‘Relatively’, the primary has a few turns in large cross sectional area conductors, the secondary has lots and lots of turns in very small cross sectional area conductor. It’s called the voltage turns ratio. Deepest apologies to those who already know this….there are lots of you who patently do. The coil will have a time constant, determined by the L/R (inductance to resistance) ratio which means when switched on the current rises exponentially. The current falls in the same way when the current is switched off. An ideal coil would have no resistive characteristic, but we need it on our bikes to limit the coil input current. Without resistance the coil would appear as a short circuit to the steady state DC current. In truth there is a little ripple in the dc current which will interact to some extent with the coil inductance/ reactance, but this is of trivial effect.
Misfires can sometimes manifest themselves at higher rpm as the HT voltage rises causing arcing across failing insulation. Points bounce is of course also a potential problem.
Did you know our coils also have ‘capacitance’, buts that’s another story……
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And so says Professor Frink. Jesus Phil, even I didn't understand that, I just test them, if they fire that's good, if they don't well that's not so good, if they shock you, that's bad.
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Kin 'el. I'm with you Ken!
I'm sure youre right though Phil, sounds it! ;) ;D
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Oh aye, agree with that Ken.
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I thought I was dylysic, but didn’t read anything into it. Apologies but it’s the landlords, hic.
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;D
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Ldi/dt
Engineering porn.
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Good explanation Sesman, I'm not so versed in electronic theory but try to convert to user view to understand it myself in reference to how a ignition system performs.
The spark form is of course affected by "atmospherics" within the combustion chamber, in so much as stratified charge density, plug gap and cylinder pressure alter the resistance across the plug gap, and subsequently the duration of the spark when running conditions shift. This area is really interesting but we're not allowed to discuss it on forum by Delta's determination ::) and limited view of the topic ;)
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I thought I was dylysic, but didn’t read anything into it. Apologies but it’s the landlords, hic.
That Timothy Taylor has a lot to answer for.😁😁😁
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Hi, K2/K6. The good news is it’s not electronics, which is definitely one for Ash. I had my fill of PN junctions, K transforms, Active front ends/power electronics, Fourier series and the like some 30 years ago😳
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I thought I was dylysic, but didn’t read anything into it. Apologies but it’s the landlords, hic.
That Timothy Taylor has a lot to answer for.😁😁😁
Indeed Ted. I’ve recovered now thankfully…..it was a rather heavy T Time session. Never, never post if you have had a few.🫣
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Hi, K2/K6. Fourier series and the like some 30 years ago😳
That rings a very distant bell (53 years for me ) Fourier Analysis it's filed in my brain with Frobenious Method.
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Luckily those of us in the electronic engineering school split from the mathematicians just before the fast Fourier transforms.
Went straight to pn junctions.
The shared first year, while “boring” at the time, did teach us the basics of fluid dynamics, materials science etc.
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Don't want to hijack the thread but........ I never did find a use for imaginary numbers - imaginary friend however ? lol
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Goodness, a+jb. I love em and use them a lot in my work. I once used them to demonstrate system fault calculations and the consultant engineer who reviewed them had the pass them as he didn’t understand the maths…remarkable.😳
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Back on topic, was the misfire, holding back problem solved?
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We don't know, he died of boredom about 14 posts ago ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I don’t drink tea but I did spit my coffee at that.
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Back on topic, was the misfire, holding back problem solved?
not quite died yet,its been cold,so I have left it until it warms up.
BUT,thinking ,at 6,000 rpm itis generating 100 sparks per second,using the 4.7ohm coil ,
is that enough to make the coil refresh??
infact,at the red line of 9K,it should be having 150 bangs a second,.
I know it was hopeless with a wide contact gap,reducing it to 12thou certainly improved the general running,but not increased how high it revs.
does anyone know the spec of the original coil?
no details on either DSS or CMSNL,Wemoto give 4.7 for one,and 4.2 for another.
HELP
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Going back on topic what is your ownership history with this bike - have you ever had it run at say 8,500 rpm.
You have started much as I would have looking at air intake fueling & then sparking.
Are the coils on your CB 200 like my 400 with the leads as part of the coil.
My other thought making quite a few assumptions such as you have enough fuel flow into the carbs with the right jets etc - is what about the other end - could the exhuast system be blocked up?
Are you happy with the condensers as well as the coils ability to produce the sparks fast enough ?
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We don't know, he died of boredom about 14 posts ago ;D ;D ;D ;D
😁😁😁😁😁
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Yes, it’s sufficient time for it to ‘charge up’. Points problem, condenser problem anybody?
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Going back on topic what is your ownership history with this bike - have you ever had it run at say 8,500 rpm.
You have started much as I would have looking at air intake fueling & then sparking.
Are the coils on your CB 200 like my 400 with the leads as part of the coil.
My other thought making quite a few assumptions such as you have enough fuel flow into the carbs with the right jets etc - is what about the other end - could the exhuast system be blocked up?
Are you happy with the condensers as well as the coils ability to produce the sparks fast enough ?
when I first got it running,it ran up to the red line ok,
slight fluffing,but the air cleaners were original and caked with dirt.
it had a after market coil,smaller than standard,so only had a single mounting point,
since trying to put it back to standard,its had a coil from Wemoto,correct size,
new capacitor,original points,
it uses a single points,and Capacitor on a twin lobe cam
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With that updated information the coil change looks to be the part that caused the loss of rpm.
Sounds daft but first thing I would do is fit the old parts back on - if it returns to working the answer should be in the coil.
Assuming you have the same make & grade of spark plugs & caps. If you have fitted new plugs might be worth trying it with the old ones fitted.
Just me thinking out loud John sorry if it's obvious twaddle.
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John, does the bike misfire, or just ‘hold back’?
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When Wendy had her car serviced at the main dealer I picked it up to find it drove home like a V4 not a V8.
Took it back the next day - they had fitted the wrong plugs!
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John, does the bike misfire, or just ‘hold back’?
just dies,
I thought it might be to lean ,so used the choke,no difference,
new plug caps, 5k resister,new D8HS plugs
look clean,
as said ,runs sweetly up to 6k
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Advance mech check out ? Can you see it advancing with a strobe ?
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Have you tried it without any air filters ?
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Advance mech check out ? Can you see it advancing with a strobe ?
it seems strong at 5k,as the advance comes in around 2.5k it should be OK,but might be worth trying,
also same with and without air filters, those have been replaced with extremely costly NOS
just had it running,started easily,blipped well,sounded good,
would a low battery affect it?
previously it started on the button,so not that low,
I had just topped the battery up now,and maybe I am imagining it ran better????
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Can't see alternator load slowing the engine rpm tbh, a blip on the throttle with a strobe light attached should show if the advance/retard is working okay.
You seem to have eliminated everything else, going back to a previous question does it start to misfire or just seem like rev limiter has tripped in?
If changing the small old coil for a new one was the cause then it must be the new coil causing the issue no??
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just like a rev limiter,
I can't re fit the old coil,as I chucked it out ages ago,
mad day of clearing out supposed junk
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I think most of us have done something similar when doing rebuilds when the old parts pile gets too large
Is the replacement coil branded?
Is there an alternative that you could try or borrow from a member?
Might be worth trying the original part number to find a replacement.
Is this yours 30500-306-673 ?
Have you tried the tests on page 63 of the service manual in Ashs dropbox?
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https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/ignition-coil-honda-cb200-cb-200-1976-1979?variant=41572787355802¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic
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How sure are you that the new HT caps are not fakes, lots of them around and they fail like you state. I had one HT cap that failed when it got hot many years ago now, acted just like that and that was on a four cylinder, just wouldn't rev past 6K. Just cause it's new doesn't mean it can't be the fault.
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I had a genuine Bosch plug cap fail on an almost new Opel Rekord 1.9 Coupe on my way to Cornwall circa 1973 causing my car to drop onto 3 cylinders.
Had to improvise with my daughters nappy pin as a connector into the plug lead to complete the rest of the journey from Bridgewater where it became almost undriveable dut to it being an automatic.
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I think most of us have done something similar when doing rebuilds when the old parts pile gets too large
Is the replacement coil branded?
Is there an alternative that you could try or borrow from a member?
Might be worth trying the original part number to find a replacement.
Is this yours 30500-306-673 ?
Have you tried the tests on page 63 of the service manual in Ashs dropbox?
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https://www.squaremotorcycleparts.co.uk/products/ignition-coil-honda-cb200-cb-200-1976-1979?variant=41572787355802¤cy=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic
I have asked Square For the specifications
Ohm for the coil
Not much point in getting the same again,
Seen some as low as 4,
????
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How sure are you that the new HT caps are not fakes, lots of them around and they fail like you state. I had one HT cap that failed when it got hot many years ago now, acted just like that and that was on a four cylinder, just wouldn't rev past 6K. Just cause it's new doesn't mean it can't be the fault.
Will try others
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Try ‘Green Spark Plug Co’. I’m pretty confident they only supply original items judging from what I’ve been supplied with in the past. I’m pretty much convinced your issue is ignition break down.
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Try ‘Green Spark Plug Co’. I’m pretty confident that only supply original items judging from what I’ve been supplied with in the past. I’m pretty much convinced your issue is ignition break down.
Thanks
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They don't appear to stock any NGK caps at the moment Phil, seems to be a shortage. M&P Direct have them though. Oddly I was looking at them this afternoon for another member.
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are you talking about the plugs?
or the caps,
the caps I got from Wemoto,
can't remember were I got the plugs from
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Caps John. Seems NGK aren't making any at the moment, not sure why?
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If you order caps John you need the D version not the B. As in XB05F or XD05F, the first letter identifies the type of cap, in that case a 102 degree elbow type, the B stands for 14mm plugs and the D for 10 and 12mm plugs. The F in this case stands for them sliding onto the bare threads at the top of the plug instead of using those little caps plugs come with.
If you want a 90 degree plug cap that starts with an L and the slightly angled ones are 120 degrees is Y.
That make sense?
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Beware of wemoto stuff. I’ve had loads of bits from there in the past that ended up simply being crap. You think you’re saving money but you’re not. I don’t buy anything from there anymore.
The most memorable being a set of front brake seals for the VFR. They absorbed so much fluid and swelled that the brakes warped the discs on the first run out!
I only buy OEM stuff to replace OEM stuff now…..including caps and the like.
Only from experience I’d get your caps somewhere else to be sure. I wouldn’t know how to test them but someone will tell me soon no doubt
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NGK caps are supposed to be 5K resistance. You could try measuring one and seeing what it is and then when it's hot to see if it changes.
Just bought some NGK caps for future use, might as well get them whilst they are available, seems it's something to do with the stuff the body is made from, shortage or no longer made I believe.
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Yes, Ken. I can believe it. I had to wait 4Months for the last lot…yes, 4 months😳
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Looking back on the post not sure if you need higher or lower coil resistance - be handy if you knew what they were when the bike was built so you could source the right one.
Probably not relevant but as V= IR a lower resistance would mean a bigger current ?
Would higher resistance meaning lower current demand help supply more spark at higher revs - I'm way out of my depth here just thinking out loud in the hope it can help.
IIRC the 400 runs on 4.6 Ohms so if a 200 has half the cylinders & 1 coil would that be a similar sort of figure?
My online search suggests the CB200 coil is 4 ohms according to the below three sellers.
.https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Coil-Honda-CB160-CB175/dp/B079M69MW1
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https://4into1.com/ignition-coil-honda-cb-cl160-175-200/
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003463624926.html
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Hi, Ted. Unfortunately not. The voltage on the secondary HT side is a function of the coil inductance ‘L’ and the rate of current collapsing when the points are opened. The resistance of the coil simply self limits the primary current and alters the collapsing current time constant….The trick with coils is to ensure that the secondary HT side insulation is sound. The magic in coils is much, much more to do with transformation ratio (eg the number of primary/secondary turns and the quality of the transformer core (yoke) material and design. That gets us the ⚡️. Energy is a function of voltage squared/ resistance x time. The voltage on the secondary side is very large, but so is the coil secondary resistance.The time is very short of course (joule integral). Basically that’s what produces the bang.
I could be wrong, but I’m sure there is a thread somewhere, where Ash constructed an ignition coil tester to simulate the ignition process and coil performance. Apart from open circuit (continuity testing), I’m guessing the most common cause of failure is insulation failure, whether that be in the coil structure our downstream on the HT leads, caps and plugs.
Just for completeness, the back EMF created in the coil primary circuit as a result of collapsing current (points opening) drives a current. It’s this voltage and current that arcs across the points causing damage to the points surfaces. That’s why it’s important to have a good condenser (capacitor). The arching also extends the collapsing current time constant, which is counter productive to good spark production.
I know, I know. A tedious subject that many are fully versed on, but if it helps somebody out there to understand the basic mechanism it will improve their fault finding. Apologies to all who may feel patronised, this item was not for their benefit.🫣
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Thanks gentlemen,
When it gets a little dryer and warmer I shall check all my plug caps for resistance,
What is the refresh rate on the coil?
Can you estimate how many times a second is to many?
The difference between 4 and 5 ohm,
Back later
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I had a feeling it could not be simplified Phil - but it looks like they are 4 ohm coils on the CB200.
How about lower ohms means more current so then Watts = Volts x Amps so more power for the spark? I'm conveniently forgetting that it's the primary current etc.
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The coils have no proboem keeping up with rpm technically as you'd likely need to get beyond about 14,000 rpm before needed to consider this.
Lowering ohms on primary will usually result in the coil producing excess heat as it just doesn't need this, rather than greater spark.
Very high rpm , there's maybe a case to consider this, but not generally running an engine like this one.
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Joules, Ted, joules. Time is the thing. Kw is just power. Time is what does the work. Eg you could have infinite power, but if time is zero you have zero energy.
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Joules that's SU units I'm more of a Horse Power type of bloke. ;) ;) ;)
Going back to the post we seem to be edging towards it's more about coil design quality & cap ends so even if they should be 4 ohms 4.6 ohms might work okay?
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Nope. Lowering the primary resistance will of course increase the primary current for a given voltage, but then the coil windings would be designed for the increased thermal performance being of greater cross sectional area. The problem with coils is leaving the ignition on for a protracted time as you lose the benefit of the on/off cycles. Due to the required HT insulation/encapsulation properties, the coil is a very poor heat sink. You can unintentionally raise the coil temp and duration, prematurely aging the insulation leading to premature failure. Oh and it will flatten your battery.
JW, I strongly suspect this is ignition related. Check those points and condenser, substitute, the plugs and caps and lastly swop out your coil. I haven’t mentioned HT leads as I presume they are composite, being embedded in the Honda coil?
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yes, Ted.That’s correct. The primary resistance is not paramount and the difference in coil resistance being suggested is of no great importance…..in this instance anyway.
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Ventured into the garage
Checked the caps,
All read about 5.3k
Coil secondary 17k
Started and warmed up nicely
Then it started raining
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Point of reference, will it rev to the red line in neutral ?
Once warmed that is :)
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Point of reference, will it rev to the red line in neutral ?
Once warmed that is :)
Mmmmmm
Not sure I want to try
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It's far less load than pulling us around under torque loading, it won't hurt it in any way.
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Yep, at least that would indicate a load related issue. Eg spark break down under load…..or fuel….or something…
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Hi, John. One thing I forgot to mention about the coil….dwell time. Are you sure the advance mech is functioning correctly? As the engine revs up there is less time for the coil to reach its steady state current. If the dwell time is such that the coil time constant doesn’t permit the DC steady state current to be established the HT side will falter. It’s just that at around 6k rpm I’m guessing you are approaching full torque and if the timing unit is not working properly neither will your ignition. For example, if the motor starts to hold back and die at 6k, but come back as the revs fall, it’s a good clue as to the problem. I’d strobe the ignition? Apologies if that’s already been mentioned
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Back on topic, was the misfire, holding back problem solved?
not quite died yet,its been cold,so I have left it until it warms up.
BUT,thinking ,at 6,000 rpm itis generating 100 sparks per second,using the 4.7ohm coil ,
is that enough to make the coil refresh??
infact,at the red line of 9K,it should be having 150 bangs a second,.
I know it was hopeless with a wide contact gap,reducing it to 12thou certainly improved the general running,but not increased how high it revs.
does anyone know the spec of the original coil?
no details on either DSS or CMSNL,Wemoto give 4.7 for one,and 4.2 for another.
HELP
John.
Very basically, at 6k the engine is firing at say 100times per second. For a typical coil time constant of say 4ms, the coil could reach steady state DC magnetism say 250 times per second, so you can see there is significant time for the coil to “charge” as some folk like to describe it. However, the ability of the coil to achieve ‘steady state’ will be determined to some extent by the timing advancer. Without advance the rpm might well outstrip the time constant/dwell time and hence the ignition break down. I’m convinced it’s an ignition system issue. Though I could be wrong, I normally am. I’m very suspicious of that 6k figure as it definitely resonates with ignition advance, coil and points.
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Apologies 125 times per second, not 250 as the coil needs to discharge too…..
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Just stumbled across this looking for typical coil time constants - explains it far better than I do.
https://www.denso-technic.com/bg/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ignition-coil-charge-up.
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Certainly an interesting discussion (we should do this as topic I feel as it brings interesting views to consider) that's as opposed to trouble shooting thread.
Hopefully to constructively add something;- the ignition advance doesn't change dwell or compensate for it's shift. Dwell change is because a mechanical system with rotor, although constant geometry, will pass the trigger point faster and faster with increasing revs, and so shorten in time frame the effect of that gemoetry. This has to be accommodated in coil performance if the ignition is to function at both low and high rpm.
It's something that true electronic triggering and accompanying switching eliminates via constant dwell TIME through full rpm range, if designed correctly.
Ignition advance shift is solely to take care of fuel burn characteristics, this is relatively constant and wouldn’t complete at the correct point in power stroke as rpm increaesd (a diesel is like this, and limited generally in max rpm because of it) to get the fuel to reach peak combustion at high rpm at correct position in stroke there's need to start the fire earlier and earlier, hence ignition advance to make sure the burn constant is fulfilled even though the piston is travelling faster.
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Gentleman, thank you for your input,
This is typical of this forum, lots of intelligent discussion and help,
Great fun reading it,
Ok,the weather has improved, so I shall get the 200 out for a run,
Might even see if it will rev past 6k with no load,
Might get the 500 out, that does rev past 9k,but it has Boyer ignition
Thanks guys,
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I do think that Boyer is a really clever system John, and didn't grasp the theory/ strategy of design until looking at diesel injection system (very similar in running retard control rather than advance) in how it works, signalled by correctly checking ultimate timing at full "advance" position to correctly set the baseline.
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I do think that Boyer is a really clever system John, and didn't grasp the theory/ strategy of design until looking at diesel injection system (very similar in running retard control rather than advance) in how it works, signalled by correctly checking ultimate timing at full "advance" position to correctly set the baseline.
I first used Boyer in around 74,on a BSA A65 powered sidecar racer,
then about 78,I got a set for the 500,
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Get the 500 out JW. You know it makes sense.
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Get the 500 out JW. You know it makes sense.
Did about 25 miles on the 500,
Like riding an electric motor,
The 200,after removing caps to measure, and refitting carefully ran better,
Under load full throttle nearly 7k,
Pull the clutch in,revs increased to 9k but not rapidly,
Coming back down a slope it revved to nearly 8k on two thirds throttle, pulling the clutch in,the revs shot up to nearly 10k quickly
Your thoughts, gentlemen
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You checked for an air leak John?
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Initially sounds lean at top end.
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Any plug colour after it's been running at full temp ?
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Without trawling through the whole thread have you checked the jet sizes to see if they are standard? Same for clip position, it's an old bike and old owners could have altered all sort of things back in the day.
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Definitely seems to have moved to fuelling.
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Okay
Standard jets
Full standard air cleaners
I thought lean,so I operated the choke, no benefit
New manifold and carb O rings
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Is clip position alterable?
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Is clip position alterable?
Tried it previously
Lifted the needle one slot,
Sooty plugs and rough running
also tried 95 MJ instead of 88, no difference,
sure the spark is not failing under load?
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Mixed signals in whats happening there John.
Obviously, as noted by Ted, the only real way of eliminating the coil conclusively is by substitution to assess that effect.
Try running it in the dark to see if you're getting any HT leakage, I've been caught out on some leads like that before, seemed to function well but looked like a hairy caterpillar in the dark ;D they were leaking a fine "mist" along entire length in damp air.
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Yes,
So far, every thing apart from the points has been renewed
Plus MJ and needle moved and adjusted
Really confusing
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Right, issues cleared,out for a fine weather run,now running sweetly
I replaced the coil with a cheap Chinese replica, £13 from Aliexpress,3.5 ohm primary circuit
Checked the cables to the condenser,
Fitted X24 Denso
Lo and behold, it finally ran as it should
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/b034d0312eb55fadeaa5173296584113.jpg)
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Pleased to read it was sorted with an inexpensive coil fix.
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Pleased to read it was sorted with an inexpensive coil fix.
Thanks Ted,
That's after mega bucks NOS airfilters,
Coils with higher resistance
Carb jets
Boy,it was a money pit
But glad I sorted it
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Yes but you did need some air filters did you not?
We've all done it with petrol engines have we not?
I had a Manta GT/E that was a pig to start in winter having an early design Bosch fuel injection system. I started with plugs then plug caps then plug leads then coil. Changed the fuel filter then finally found a bad connection on the cold start injector. A squirt of contact cleaner - all sorted.
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Yes but you did need some air filters did you not?
We've all done it with petrol engines have we not?
I had a Manta GT/E that was a pig to start in winter having an early design Bosch fuel injection system. I started with plugs then plug caps then plug leads then coil. Changed the fuel filter then finally found a bad connection on the cold start injector. A squirt of contact cleaner - all sorted.
Yes, I think we all do it
Yes, I did need the filters
But it's fun!!
Isn't it
Frustrating at times, but gives great pleasure and satisfaction to get it running sweetly,
Thanks all for your help and support
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Yes but you did need some air filters did you not?
We've all done it with petrol engines have we not?
I had a Manta GT/E that was a pig to start in winter having an early design Bosch fuel injection system. I started with plugs then plug caps then plug leads then coil then distributor cap. Changed the fuel filter then finally found a bad connection on the cold start injector. A squirt of contact cleaner - all sorted.
Yes, I think we all do it
Yes, I did need the filters
But it's fun!!
Isn't it
Frustrating at times, but gives great pleasure and satisfaction to get it running sweetly,
Thanks all for your help and support
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Good to get to the bottom of it John.
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Good to get to the bottom of it John.
Yes,
It rode really well, comfy, relatively light ,
Good feeling,
Very enjoyable,
Very glad to have it running nicely
And the summer is coming, perfect for the country lanes,and exploring the local hills
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