Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Member 4 Sales => Topic started by: Bristolbadger on February 09, 2023, 08:31:09 AM
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Does anyone have or can recommend where to get a new set of points please?
Cheers in advance
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Does anyone have or can recommend where to get a new set of points please?
Cheers in advance
Here's what I've got to work with at present. Didn't seem to have the full adjustment to get them dialled in properly, so worked with what I could... Until I think the condenser on 1-4 packed up and has burnt the points. Might be salvageable but don't think these are great anyway. Daiichi logo on them if that counts for much (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230209/3a76e863a2863c9a465cca736fa7a138.jpg)
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You set up the points by adjusting the points and not the back plate.
If you are going by a manual, that is for new Honda points and is just a starting point.
Turn the plate to middle adjustment and then put a strobe light on and adjust the points 1&4, once it is strobed in, move on to 2&3.
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Surely you mean the gap is adjusted by using the points but the timing is set by using the backplates don’t you Graham?
Those are not genuine points BB, genuine points have a sort of chequerboard board finish on the surface plate, aftermarket points like those are well known for being hard to set correctly. Set to smallest allowable gap possible and they tend to just time up right then.
DS sells genuine ones for £35 each plus p&p
I’ve got some genuine points somewhere, £40 a pair and I’ll throw in some nice new stainless steel screws for the points plate for, rather chewed up those ones and the wrong type as well, should all be crosshead screws not flat bladed screws.
Not sure if the pic angle is confusing it but the 2-3 points don’t look right, there should be an insulating washer either side of the plate the wires are on, to keep the wires away from earthing out through the points plate.
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Yep that red/yellow terminal looks like it maybe compromising the functionality.
Any leak out there and it'll screw with the firing on those cylinder.
I'd move that brass fitting out first to see if it'll pick those two cylinder up.
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Surely you mean the gap is adjusted by using the points but the timing is set by using the backplates don’t you Graham?
Those are not genuine points BB, genuine points have a sort of chequerboard board finish on the surface plate, aftermarket points like those are well known for being hard to set correctly. Set to smallest allowable gap possible and they tend to just time up right then.
DS sells genuine ones for £30 each plus p&p
I’ve got some genuine points somewhere, £40 a pair and I’ll throw in some nice new stainless steel screws for the points plate for, rather chewed up those ones and the wrong type as well, should all be crosshead screws not flat bladed screws.
Not sure if the pic angle is confusing it but the 2-3 points don’t look right, there should be an insulating washer either side of the plate the wires are on, to keep the wires away from earthing out through the points plate.
I never said the word timing :o
My Honda crystal ball says, he has adjusted the points gap with a feeler to the manual and is now turning the plate to find the timing. And that is why the plate has run out of adjustment.
If he keeps burning parts the points are staying closed too long ;)
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a strobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
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Stop bickering you two.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Play nicely you two it does neither of you any credit to squabble so openly on this site.
I have no doubt you are both very knowledgeable in similar areas half the time it reads as just semantics. You are both better than this I'm sure.
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Surely you mean the gap is adjusted by using the points but the timing is set by using the backplates don’t you Graham?
Those are not genuine points BB, genuine points have a sort of chequerboard board finish on the surface plate, aftermarket points like those are well known for being hard to set correctly. Set to smallest allowable gap possible and they tend to just time up right then.
DS sells genuine ones for £30 each plus p&p
I’ve got some genuine points somewhere, £40 a pair and I’ll throw in some nice new stainless steel screws for the points plate for, rather chewed up those ones and the wrong type as well, should all be crosshead screws not flat bladed screws.
Not sure if the pic angle is confusing it but the 2-3 points don’t look right, there should be an insulating washer either side of the plate the wires are on, to keep the wires away from earthing out through the points plate.
Thanks guys all good info and you've confirmed what I thought about the aftermarket points and yes exactly that, trouble setting the timing even with minimum gap.
I used a continuity tester buzzer initially then put a strobe on em... no expert but took my time and did the best I could and enjoyed decent running for 6 months.
Thanks for the offer buddy, very kind. Could do with a nice set of screws for the plate and points tho, if you have a spare set to part with...?
Roo has kindly offered me a great looking OE points and plate so will install that one as soon as I can and take my time setting things up. I also have a points cover in better nick, the anti-conductive paint that was a bit worn on my old one probably wasn't helping matters either 🫣
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
Thats where you went wrong then ;D ;D
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Hacka week is a a bit cliche and Ithought it was a joke when I first came accross it. Dont use him!
Common motor, Revival Cycles, Classic Octane are a great place tolook and teh tutorilals are ace.If nottry Lyle's Garage, he's npot bad.
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
You do fin repairs? I have a goldfish you could look at, if it's not too much trouble. He'd be ever so grateful..
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
Are you close to Roo? I don't mean do you love him but are you close in locale :D
I've got to send Roo some stuff for his bike shortly so I could send a set of point screws down to him and you could pick it up from him or would you prefer them sent direct? You want just the 6 points screws? 4 for points, 2 for condensers or would you like the 3 outer plate screws as well?
Oh forgot to add, if you need a brand new points cover let me know, I have quite a few of them.
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If it runs enough to get to Gloucester, bring it up on an arranged weekend, i have points of various makers and cap screws to suit
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
Are you close to Roo? I don't mean do you love him but are you close in locale :D
I've got to send Roo some stuff for his bike shortly so I could send a set of point screws down to him and you could pick it up from him or would you prefer them sent direct? You want just the 6 points screws? 4 for points, 2 for condensers or would you like the 3 outer plate screws as well?
Oh forgot to add, if you need a brand new points cover let me know, I have quite a few of them.
Yes please the full 9 screws would be amazing! Give them to Roo... he's my hero.. as are all of yous
Can pop a few quid over if you send me your deets too
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If it runs enough to get to Gloucester, bring it up on an arranged weekend, i have points of various makers and cap screws to suit
Thanks Bryan I hope to do a run to the Oily Rag HQ up there, soon as it warms up a tad. I'll be in touch mate, many thanks
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he does love me Ken, he knows it deep down! 8)
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No money BB, someday you may be able to do me a favour.
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he does love me Ken, he knows it deep down! 8)
Is it the love that dare not speak its name Roo. Or it could be that all those wild oats you sowed have come back to haunt you Daddy 😁😁😁
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he does love me Ken, he knows it deep down! 8)
Is it the love that dare not speak its name Roo. Or it could be that all those wild oats you sowed have come back to haunt you Daddy 😁😁😁
I hope not Roo has intimated he will be true to me - after the Long Haired General naturally.
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he does love me Ken, he knows it deep down! 8)
Is it the love that dare not speak its name Roo. Or it could be that all those wild oats you sowed have come back to haunt you Daddy
I hope not Roo has intimated he will be true to me - after the Long Haired General naturally.
Love is such a loose word, I prefer psychological affliction!
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How about Oxytocin poisoning as an alternative. 8) 8) 8)
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
I have been looking through a ton of youtube vids on setting points and most of them are well off. This seems to be a good guide but, there is quite a few cuts, like the plate seems to move on its own at 7.20. Hope it helps >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3933ouJ1wrI&t=924s
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I have been looking through a ton of youtube vids on setting points and most of them are well off. This seems to be a good guide but, there is quite a few cuts, like the plate seems to move on its own at 7.20. Hope it helps >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3933ouJ1wrI&t=924s
Thanks Graham ...... Mine aren't perfectly set so will have a go using this
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Thanks Graham a very informative video.
Not a big criticism but I would not have used an adjustable spanner to rotate the crankshaft - the right sized spanner might be more appropriate.
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Good video, that's pretty much how I set them up except I use a battery and a bulb, here's my high tech gear.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3661/RuZPOU.jpg)
Cheers
Dennis
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Thanks Graham a very informative video.
Not a big criticism but I would not have used an adjustable spanner to rotate the crankshaft - the right sized spanner might be more appropriate.
Also it is good practice to use a independent battery for a strobe light ;)
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Thanks Graham a very informative video.
Not a big criticism but I would not have used an adjustable spanner to rotate the crankshaft - the right sized spanner might be more appropriate.
Also it is good practice to use a independent battery for a strobe light ;)
Good point Graham, I used my garage slave car battery when working on my 400 simply to make easier use of the lead lengths & avoid flattening the bike battery.
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Good video, that's pretty much how I set them up except I use a battery and a bulb, here's my high tech gear.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3661/RuZPOU.jpg)
Cheers
Dennis
That's a more accurate setup in reality. Notice how the yt clip guy struggled with the light glowing ? That's because he is still switching the coil load through the points and you can see the earth route going flakey as the points come off contact with their faces and the 2/3 wuth it's backplate while screws were undone.
With this and routed through disconnected coil wires, then the load for the bulb is tiny and more easily read.
Also the same with "bleep" continuity tester, as with meter and tiny battery the position is more accurate in setting, the tell tale is that he has to adjust it with strobe as that shouldn't happen if done accurately.
The setting for 2~3 points is just compensation for production tolerancing on the points mechanism itself as the crank firing is exactly 180 degree apart, so once set..... for those points in use......it doesn't change much. Wear on pivot and points heal the reason. Grease on cam should be replicated on points pivot.
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I would not use ANY spanner on the advance nut to turn the crank unless all plugs were removed
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Yep, avoid spammers on her nuts at all times….
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Yep, avoid spammers on her nuts at all times….
😂😂😂
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It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
I have been looking through a ton of youtube vids on setting points and most of them are well off. This seems to be a good guide but, there is quite a few cuts, like the plate seems to move on its own at 7.20. Hope it helps >>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3933ouJ1wrI&t=924s
Nice one Trigger that's a nice clear tutorial. Bonus soundtrack too
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Your points screws were sent to Roo earlier in the week. With luck he'll have them now.
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All came yesyerday Ken, he was round for them last night!! cheers for all bud.
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Cheers for those bits Ken & Roo, looking forward to getting them installed this w/end hopefully