Honda-SOHC

Only just spotted this thread Ash, don't know how I missed it. Took me a while to read through the first four pages but up to speed now.

My 350F forks were rusted at the top same as yours but the working area was perfect. I just cleaned the rust off and treated them with a rust eater/preventer (cant just remember what its called, will check) and put them back together. That's how Honda made them in the first place, chrome was very expensive back then.

The bearing retainers in the wheels are a real pig to get undone, your going to destroy the retainer whatever you do. If you check my 350F thread it shows on there how I got them out. It was basically 3 days of heating them up and blasting with PlusGas whilst still hot, then soaking them again after it cooled. It more or less went on its own after that. But it 'picked up' on its way out, so it was back a bit forwards a bit for ages until it came free. It left the very fine threads in the hub damaged, these had to be cleaned up at the machine shop.

Will be following the thread with interest now I've found it.

Good luck with the build.

If they have a deep shiny finish like a mudguard they haven't been Hard Chromed. If they've done decorative chrome they wont last even 2 years as its a different thing all together.

I've had quite a few done over the years, usually by Philpotts but also others, and they always look like yours in the picture.

Even Honda's originals are not truly hard plated and wont last as long. With real Hard Plating have a look in 30 years and they will be just like they were done yesterday.

How did you find genuine F2 carb rubbers. That's got to be the find of the century.

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Spent Sunday afternoon attempting to sort the throttle cable problems. Along the way I have found a problem with the carb re-assembly.

I guess this should be problem 10 on the list then.

This ones home grown, but not surprising as carbs are my weak point. Was hoping I had it right first time on this one. Anybody that followed my 750F2 build will know that the carbs on that were on and off so often I could do it in my sleep.

Anyway, for some strange reason the carbs are not closing correctly. Meaning that the cable quadrant is not rotating back fully. Not sure what it is, so rebuild number 2 is about to start. Whilst I'm doing it I am going to change the worn quadrant for a spare I have. That should correct the problem of the cable not being retained.

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You can just see in the picture that the throttle stop screw is right out and there is still an gap of about 10mm. This has the effect of making cable 'A' appear too long, and cable 'B' appear too short. The over-return stop is also miles off the quadrant. Not doubt when I get back in there it will become obvious whats wrong.

Second problem with the carbs. Although they were carefully cleaned and rebuilt with all new parts, 3 out of the 4 carbs are deluging petrol out of the overflows.

Engine start is now put back again. Never mind, nearly through the extra challenges now. I would rather have everything done correctly before I attempt to start it.

Cheers all.

Maybe an air leak at the carb mounting rubbers. That always leans the mixture and makes it a pig to start. No evidence, just a thought.

Last time I did something like that it took a torch on both sides to keep it hot enough. Enlist the help of a friend to hold both torches whilst you bend it. Should work okay.

Now you've put up a taster you're going to have to post some photos to show the rest of the bike. Good luck.

The bikes getting close to finished now, but the Gremlins have crept in and caused some problems. I ended up with a list of issues to be resolved that was growing faster than I was fixing them. The list is here:

1. Ran the engine on the starter and found a large oil leak from the crankshaft seal on the timing end.
2. Centre stand hitting the exhaust rather than the stop (pattern parts again).
3. Missing end plate on one of the silencers.
4. Rear axle fouling the bottom silencer when on the centre stand (pattern parts again).
5. Huge drag on the clutch.
6. Throttle cable 'A' wont stay in the quadrant.
7. Throttle cable 'A' too long and wont adjust up enough (pattern parts again).
8. Headlamp shell cracked when the rim was tightened up.
9. Clutch cable fouling the threads on pattern control on handlebars (pattern parts again).

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The headlamp crack was due to an area of damage that I repaired before painting. There was a chunk out of the front that I repaired with Araldite and sanded back. I thought I had got away with it but the crack appeared straight away. I have managed to source a NOS item from Italy that strangely is a pressed steel item instead of moulded plastic. Its in a sealed Honda bag with the correct number, guess they had a problem with the cracking and changed it.

The clutch issues turned out to be an historical error made by the previous owner. I covered that on another thread so wont bore you with the details again. It was in this thread:  http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,9205.0.html

The problem with the oil leak (now sorted) was a home grown thing due to stupidity on my part. I tried but I couldn't think of anything or anybody else to blame for that one.    I also covered that on another thread:   http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,9150.0.html

All the exhaust issues are now resolved, thanks should go to the suppliers in Germany who were very helpful.

The problems with the throttle cables are this afternoons project. If I can get that sorted, the next big hurdle is engine start. I am planning on making a video of this momentous event so everyone can see me go up in a cloud of smoke and shrapnel. Will be selling tickets for the big event later on, and DVD's can be pre ordered.

Bye for now.

Just a quick update to close this thread.

The clutch is now back together and working well. A nice silky smooth action as well.

Only found the two issues, 1. A bent adjuster bolt that I missed on assembly, and 2. The plate spring was fitted back to front. This must have been done by the PO as I didn't disassemble that part as its not normally required unless the steel plates are changed.

Don't know how they were riding it like that, it was only a small mistake but it made a huge difference.

The offending part is item 11 on the diagram.

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Looks like the Cruzinimage clutch plates are okay after all.


Cheers all, and thanks for the help.