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Messages - paulbaker1954
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451
« on: November 17, 2017, 12:22:12 AM »
I searched ebay, motul 10/40w at about £22 for 20l. Chuck it in everything, keep the changes regular, buy beer off the savings.
Love to see the eBay link I can’t find anything like this price
452
« on: November 16, 2017, 08:31:58 AM »
For posting pictures they have to be small
If you are using a PC view the picture as normal then use the standard windows supplied “snipping” tool to copy it and save as a .jpg file
Now it will be small enough to post on the forum
By the way I am confused by your post what bike are you referring to?
On the 4 parts 11 and 12 are not what oddjob is referring to so assuming you are referring to your 600 not a four
If you have multiple bikes be clear which one you are referring to so folks can help better
Sorry didn’t mean to sound like a moderator there which I am NOT !
453
« on: November 16, 2017, 08:14:45 AM »
Just an FYI Eurocarparts have a good offer on with 33% off and free delivery
I just bagged 5l of TripleX 10-40 for £17 all in — - USE CODE SAVE33 at checkout.
Worth stocking up at that price
(Yes I know they always have offer on !!! But not always with free delivery as well)
455
« on: November 14, 2017, 08:15:23 AM »
What does 'high powered mini coils' mean?
Great question the Boyer site mutters something about them being controlled by current rather than voltage, also the 2 coils are wired in series as opposed to parallel. I'm a mechanical engineer so all this volts and electrons stuff sometimes gets me a bit lost. All I know is the end result is a better spark, better starting than my aged Honda coils as I said before. Be interested to know more about the science if anyone knows (sounds like one for Ash to weigh in on !!)
456
« on: November 13, 2017, 10:03:20 PM »
Yes I ordered direct from Boyer, delivered next day. Great service
457
« on: November 13, 2017, 03:11:07 PM »
Rev counter on my K1 is similar in that it's fine to 5k than just jumps around when above this. Built it out of the best bits of two a year ago and its just been taped together this year as I was trying it out. But just about to look inside again.
Is it just a matter of cleaning or is further dismantling necessary or is it likely to be a problem with the damping pot? (it's fairly smooth up and down to 5k.)
Hi Phil sounds like we both have exactly the same issue. When I get some time Thursday I am going to do some testing with drill just to clarify if its rev counter, cable (unlikely as new) or worm drive shaft. I am in PM on this issue with Kent400 our resident clocks guru so I'll keep posted as to progress. Not a showstopper issue for me but REALLY annoying
458
« on: November 13, 2017, 08:31:42 AM »
Hi Rob,
I just reckoned that changing 45 year old coils was never going to be a bad idea and looks like I was proved right, much fatter spark and starting performance.
Great investment go for it.
459
« on: November 12, 2017, 09:56:33 AM »
You need to talk to kent400 on here Paul ! our resident clock repair guru!
Ta Ash will pm him
460
« on: November 12, 2017, 08:40:50 AM »
Could use some advice!!
Rev counter climbs lovely to 5k then sticks there and then jumps to 8k or thereabouts.
I have new cable, squirted some WD up the hole etc and still no better.
I am kind of coming to the conclusion that the P.O. rode around a lot just under or around 5k and it’s developed a “sticky point”
I have 3 alternatives
1) Send it for repair ( but that does look very expensive from the research I have done.
2) Source a fleabay replacement (not much around) and may be just as bad.
4) Have a bash at stripping it myself and seeing what I can do.
So now to my question, has anyone got any experience of repairing these units. I think they use a magnetic rotor system so are pretty simple so hoping a good strip and clean will sort it
461
« on: November 11, 2017, 04:20:56 PM »
Well it’s all installed and running and I am REALLY pleased
Just been for a 2 hour thrash round Cheshire to test
Bike definitely starts easer ( but that was probably more down to 45 year old coils!!) and definitely smoother tickover
Also just seems to run smoother right through the rev range
Definitely a worthwhile upgrade with the bonus of less maintenance
😀😀😀😀😀😀
Only negative is it’s a bit DIY to fit, I used some Al bar fitted each side on the original coil mounts to fix the micro coils (thanks Roy Hall for pictures) which worked nicely and gave a neat installation. The blue box then fitted nicely on top of the bars
462
« on: November 10, 2017, 09:16:23 AM »
Where are you in Cheshire?
Interested in meeting for a brew/run out sometime?
Pm me if interested
463
« on: November 10, 2017, 09:13:35 AM »
Ash
Have you checked if there is any difference with the max advance marks between 01 and 02
Just a wild guess
464
« on: November 10, 2017, 02:06:15 AM »
I just finished fitting the Boyer system to my 4 but learned a hard lesson on the way that I thought I’d share.
The Boyer instructions say to remove the bob weighs and springs but do not make it clear you also have to remove the advance/ retard cam off the advance/ retard unit shaft as well.
I missed this and was confused as to why the stator plate did not fit properly and why the mag rotor fouled the chrome cover.
In my confusion I filed off the lugs on the end of the advance unit to get it to fit (unsuccessfully) without fouling the cover (thanks to Ash for replacement advance/ retard unit)
The answer was simple as always in hindsight, in that if you don’t take off the cam bush the stator plate won’t fit over the end of the advance unit properly and the mag rotor won’t fit over the end of the advance unit shaft.
It all comes down to a missing comma!!
Instruction 16 in the Boyer instructions says
“Remove the cam bobweights and springs from the advance retard unit”
It should say
“Remove the cam, bobweights and springs from the advance retard unit”
Amazing what confusion a missing , can lead to!!
As the saying goes
“Eats shoots and leaves” or alternatively “Eats, shoots and leaves”
I have notified Boyer by the way !!!
465
« on: November 10, 2017, 12:45:45 AM »
Rev and enjoy the sound —- they were built for it!!!
You are used to bigger bikes and twins that have a lot of low down torque
i remember a Scotland trip a few years back with a bunch of riders that had done an advanced BMW course where one exercise was to ride a route and pick a single gear to use and not change gear.
The lesson is use a lower gear than you would instinctively use and higher revs - result is better engine braking, less gear swaps and believe me a smoother ride.
TRY IT
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