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Messages - paulbaker1954
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76
« on: July 31, 2020, 07:58:10 AM »
A friend of mine has a UK K0 bike and I have a USA K0 bike and there is a big difference in the angle of movement from 0 to full throttle. On his UK bike I reckon it’s about 120 deg but on my US bike it’s more like 90.
The 120 movement makes his UK bike a pain to ride so was wondering if anyone knows any more.
The only variable I can think of is the diameter of the nylon bit the cable wraps round in the housing may be different
78
« on: July 19, 2020, 07:53:00 AM »
I didn't help myself by dropping a nut down the camchain tunnel either - but that's another story.
Sounds fun, I always now stuff a cloth in that hole when working on my top end having once dropped a battery from my head torch down there which luckily I managed to fish out.
Experience is a journey in life
79
« on: June 26, 2020, 07:50:44 AM »
Did 100 odd miles yesterday in stifling heat and from brake started squealing again. Only when applying light pressure to lever. Squeeze harder ad it stops.
That said super embarrassing as you ride around. Pads seem to release ok so am wondering if this is down to the pad material so my question is what pads do others recommend
80
« on: June 26, 2020, 07:47:23 AM »
My experience with fitting was that they fitted fine even with the aftermarket brackets I sourced from Italy (can’t remember supplier but way cheaper than DSS or CMS.
My one gripe was that the position of the main stand rubber was out and I had to make up a small extension piece
Been on the bike for 3 years and no degradation of chrome etc
81
« on: June 11, 2020, 12:50:52 PM »
My main loom to the headlight shell runs on the left of the frame above the tank front locating rubbers as in the picture. I have noticed that the routing causes the loom to flex when turning the bars lock to lock.
I am concerned this flexing will eventually damage the loom wiring and was just wondering if this is the correct routing?
82
« on: June 11, 2020, 08:18:58 AM »
Me 6
Really annoys me
83
« on: June 06, 2020, 08:49:41 AM »
I was very pleased with my CMS units and I think they use same supplier as DS anyway.
When I had a potential problem with one pipe after 2 years they replaced it no question and even paid carriage both ways
Great service
84
« on: June 01, 2020, 08:22:20 AM »
I think that’s expensive, even for a K0.
As a benchmark I paid £1,600 for my K0 from DK that was massively seized but had really good chrome etc and all the bits present.
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Even then I ended up spending at least that again on a rebuild and new pipes
85
« on: June 01, 2020, 07:40:45 AM »
Sunday glorious so a quick 90 miles to Whitchurch and back, great to be out again
Never seen so many bikes out though
86
« on: May 14, 2020, 09:22:28 AM »
I fitted a Motobat MB12U and it’s been great. Went for maintenance free as I got fed up not being able to easily see the fluid level in my previous unit without taking it off the bike. The plastic case just too opaque 🙈🙈🙈
87
« on: May 06, 2020, 08:43:30 AM »
Put a thread gauge on the screw if you have one unless Graham relents and coughs up😂😂😂
88
« on: May 06, 2020, 08:39:48 AM »
Hi
Yes there is a way of leaning the engine and I seem to remember Trigger mentioning this in a prior post
My method is to undo the rear air box mounting bolt (top at back) so the air box has some waggle. The I push the air box rubbers back in to to airbox but not all the way through. Carbs will then slide in ready easy. Assuming the airbox rubbers are newish and still reasonably soft it’s pretty easy to pull them back out on to the carbs.
I can refit my carbs in 15 mins using this approach.
I am sure there are other tips out there but this works well for me
89
« on: May 03, 2020, 08:59:08 AM »
From my research seems like only works well on transparent materials where the UV can reach to cure.
90
« on: April 25, 2020, 08:46:51 AM »
Hi
Having had exactly the same issue as you here is my advice..
1) Use only OEM Head Gasket and O rings. I had bad experience with the DSS aftermarket set
2) Once the head is off I would recommend getting it skimmed to ensure it is flat. Shoul not cost a huge amount at a reputable machine shop (mine was £30 if I recall)
3) Read the manual Ash recommends and take your time especially with refitting the cam cover and cam chain etc to make sure you get valve timing right.
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