Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Recommended Sources for Parts and Services => Topic started by: PHILIP2908 on December 26, 2020, 09:25:01 AM
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Hello All,
Hope you had a good day yesterday. I did and got an Amazon voucher in amongst all the socks and scarves.
I have been thinking about getting an electric rattle gun as I've struggled with rusty nuts on bikes (and cars) since about 1968 - I've rounded more corners than Lewis Hamilton. It will have to deal with hub nuts, clutch centre nuts and wheel bolts.
The questions are:
- Best brand - I want to stick to De Walt, Makita, Ryobi if possible.
- Corded or cordless - I favour a corded one as I don't want yet another battery charger.
- Budget is about £100 - £125.
Any recommendations or advice welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Have a good new year (its got to be better than the last one...)
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Not sure if machine mart have any offers on at the moment, but mine is from machine mart and is awesome...
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cir18lic-18v-brushless-2ah--impact-wre/
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just a word of warning if you are ordering off the internet in that price range check what drive they have as some have 1/4" hex drives.
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I ONLY use Ryobi ONE+ items... I have one battery charger and 3 batteries for Drill, Angle Grinder, 3/8" rattle gun, 1/2" Rattle gun, Jig Saw, sander, and last one (for now) 165mm Circular saw.
I also have garden tools that use the same 18v battery system.
We get 6 years warranty here on the skins at least, not sure on the battery.
So far I havent had an oz of trouble and I have given them all a pretty decent workout. Not sure how pricing stacks up between Aus and UK but I find the Ryobi gear to be excellent value for money.
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Normally I too rather stick to brand MFGs, but at the price of € 39.90,- a thing from LIDL jumped on me...
Turns out that this Parkside item beats my air-powered rattler by far...
the lock-nut of a '96 ST1100 clutch-basked was open within the fraction of a second... same on loosening the damper bolts on a CX500...
If only used occasionally those knock-offs will serve OK, but I see issues with (battery) comparability, lifetime and of course support on spares later on...
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Normally I too rather stick to brand MFGs, but at the price of € 39.90,- a thing from LIDL jumped on me...
Turns out that this Parkside item beats my air-powered rattler by far...
the lock-nut of a '96 ST1100 clutch-basked was open within the fraction of a second... same on loosening the damper bolts on a CX500...
If only used occasionally those knock-offs will serve OK, but I see issues with (battery) comparability, lifetime and of course support on spares later on...
I think it all depends how often you use tools as to how much you pay for tools like electric drills, etc. For example, I had a decent drill that broke about 10 years ago and I had to buy a drill quickly. I bought a drill from 'wilko' for about £15 (their own brand) - I have absolutely battered it over the years (particularly sideways presure using rotary wire brushing work). Its still going and I'll just bin it and buy another cheapo. If I was using it everyday (like I did when I was an engineer), I would buy a really good quality item.
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I have a Kielder 1/2 Drive it's metal not plastic so has some weight to it. I also have a"free" 1/4 Hex Drive Mulwakee that came with a drill deal. The Kielder is far superior I bought it mainly for rotating the wheels on our Jeeps using a torque stick.
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There is such a range of these things, drive type, battery/no battery, charger/no charger, available/not available. Tried to order a Ryobi from B&Q last week at £150, no stock. So this post was very timely for me. So have ordered the Clarke from Machine Mart due before 5th Jan. Keep coming across stuck screws and figure I'll keep doing so decided it's time to buy one. I have a Vessel impact JIS screwdriver but it needs quite a whack to engage the drive and for me, it feels like too much of a risk hitting screws that hard on some parts of the crank case.
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I have a Clarke Jet Washer it over 20 years old - still works fine though I did replace the Lance. They seem to put their name to well made stuff.
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A rattle gun has become a must with modern bikes to get the front sprockets off.
All of my battery tools are 18v Makita as I think there balanced better then Dewalt and most other makes.
Don't dismiss the tidler 1/4 drives there handy little things as they can get into tight spaces.
My brothers 1/2'' drive Snap On will spin the car round and round untill the head shears off if bolts are rusted solid. ;D
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But i had a snap on one that with new battery would not undo the crank bolt on my L 200 pickup, having said that i think they are the best battery one but also most expensive
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But i had a snap on one that with new battery would not undo the crank bolt on my L 200 pickup, having said that i think they are the best battery one but also most expensive.
I had one stupidly tight wheel bolt on the SL after having a set of tyres fitted in 2019 - my tools would not shift it so the son of a good friend came round with his Professional Grade Milwaukee Impact driver. He undid it whilst holding the tool with one hand impressive tool but very expensive! I put it down to youth as I could barely hold the tool with one hand it was that heavy!
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I have gone off getting battery tools for home and have gone back to tools with leads. I always have power at home and don't have to think about flat batteries or replacing them.
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I have gone off getting battery tools for home and have gone back to tools with leads. I always have power at home and don't have to think about flat batteries or replacing them.
That makes sense but sometimes not being tied to a cord such as in the garden or on the front drive can be useful.
That said my SDS Drill/Chisel has a lead it's an awesome tool.
I also think leads are essential to cut in two when using hedge trimmers - you then have the joy of feeling stupid at no extra cost.
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£59.68 for a Clarke one. I should have asked Father Christmas.
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I have 2 18v Milaukee impacts, one 3/8 and one 1/2 drive. Use both at work. The 3/8 is brilliant. 4 preset speeds (loads of 40, 100, 220 and 284 nm) and you can adjust these values with a phone app. Both came with 2 batteries and 3 year warranties
Use the 3/8 for just about everything as it is small enough to get into tight spaces. Was not cheap, but I do use it a lot and claimed back some tax.
The 1/2 drive kicks out 130 and 950 nm. Not much says no to it.
Bought them both from FFX fixings online
Think its important to get a Li ion battery (assume the older types are still sold) as it reduces the memory effects.
Buy an impact, you will not regret it.
Some of the Aldi/Lidl tools are pretty good and also come with good warranties. Have an 18v drill that is mainly used to clean wheel rims with a wire brush. Brilliant and came with 2 batteries.
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I have a mains B&D drill that is over 40 years old and still in regular use. I am willing to bet no one has a battery drill that old still in use. ;D ;D
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A 40 yr old B&D has decades of life left, a 4 yr old B&D has minutes
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A 40 yr old B&D has decades of life left, a 4 yr old B&D has minutes
;D ;D
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I have a mains B&D drill that is over 40 years old and still in regular use. I am willing to bet no one has a battery drill that old still in use. ;D ;D
I was exclusively B&D drills back in the 1960's then they started building drills made of monkey metal with no proper bearing as such - what a shame.
I replaced my last B&D with a Hitachi unit in 1980 ish - I ended up giving the Hitachi away about 5 years ago as it was pre-hammer option era. The drill still worked like new when I parted with it.
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B&D is DeWalt, remarkable how powerful marketing can be isn't it :)
B&D made a "professional" line some years ago, it was genuinely very good but viewed in same light as their general low use "punter" offerings seemed very expensive. Use of a more technical Germanic name and bob is indeed their uncle ;D
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I have the small hex drive Ryobi-ONE version. Seems to rattle out JIS screws fine, as long as the the head isn't too nadgered (i.e can't be reformed into a decent cross head again). I really bought it because I already have a 5AH and a 4 AH Ryobi battery pack... so they kind of lock you into buying more of their tools once you have made the investment in their genuine battery packs (which are very expensive). Their angle grinder and chain-saw tools are pretty good, as I have both.
I wish you could get this item linked below the other way round though (i.e Ryobi to Makita adapter) Maybe there is a technical reason why they don't appear to be available ... anyone know why or know if one indeed exists?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313&_nkw=batadapter+ryobi+to+makita&_sacat=0
Perhaps there are safety issues:
https://www.protoolreviews.com/power-tool-battery-adapters/
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B&D is Dewalt now but 40 yrs back wasnt
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B&D is Dewalt now but 40 yrs back wasnt
I've a couple of B&D professional corded power tools that were just (when the name changed) cast in yellow plastic as Dewalt, identical items then and still going. They could make good stuff then but that's not what the mass market would stand in terms of cost. But people are prepared to pay more for something when they percieve they are getting higher quality, even though it was the same stuff.
The other scource was ELU power tools which they bought too.
Obviously subsequent tools have been developed by them, but within a higher profit margin market sector which the B&D name would not support.
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B&D is Dewalt now but 40 yrs back wasnt
Anyone on here old enough to remember Stanley-Bridges power tools? Barry Bucknell?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jv0PNfPznOE
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Yup,
My first handtools were Stanley, Gedore, Eclipse and Moore and Wright.
Used to work for a tool hire firm rebuilding hire fleet Kango hammers and good old metal bodied B&D 9 inch angle grinders, circular saws, routers and electric planes------still got some ber(unless you were on first name terms with the area big chief!!!) B&D stuff
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Original box after the mice got to the label
[attach=1]
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Contents of the box
Even have some of the attachments somewhere
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I used to have one of those. Good old mechanical gearbox. I'd still have it but my van was broken into.
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Wish id known, i bined a drill dtand for one of those 5 months ago
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I started off my life on the tools with a company set "snail" brand Whitworth spanners, soon to be followed by a modern set of F.T. Williams slimline spanners, then I slowly built up my first set of !/2 drive sockets from the army surplus stores, all with little arrows stamped on them.
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Contents of the box
Even have some of the attachments somewhere
Looks like a custom paint-job...
I reckon them in orange/white ;)
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My 1st soldering iron was exactly the same as this:- ;D
[attachimg=1]
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ST it was the next generation that were red and white.
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I wouldn't like to solder surface mount components with that iron.
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Phil - that rattle gun....
Honestly, I reckon they’re all much-of-a-muchness these days, so long as you choose a well known brand and 18v I’m sure you’ll be happy. My main comment though, is that you look at the stable of tools available from each manufacturer, and steer towards the one who offers your best ‘future’ toolkit, absolving you of multiple different batteries and bloody chargers down the line. (assuming you want to go cordless... tho’ given the power and run time - let alone CONVENIENCE of 18v batteries I’m personally over muddled and knotted mains cables).
Ash - that solder iron brings back memories; 10 mins to heat up, ages to cool down. No job too big 😂.
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My 1st soldering iron was exactly the same as this:- ;D
(Attachment Link)
That takes me back I had one back in the late 1960's same make methinks I eventually bought a gun type soldering iron.
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Looks like I need to modernise some of my tools
[attachimg=1]
Other B and D drill
[attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
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It least replace the cable on that drill before you blow yourself up.
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ST it was the next generation that were red and white.
Blue/Orange over here... :-\
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It least replace the cable on that drill before you blow yourself up.
Nah, install a new cord (maybe a set of brushes while at it)... the thing will serve another decade or two 8)
While I too worked with a Weller soldering-gun as shown (decades ago), the huge soldering-irons shown rather remind of roofing-tools... ;)
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Thanks to everybody for the advice given on what impact wrench to buy. I finally decided on a Clarke ½” drive corded version for £72. I decided on corded rather than battery because 1) I didn’t want yet another battery and charger (should have gone the Ryobi route from day one), and 2) as I’m 66 now, God willing, I might have another 10 years messing about with bikes. So, in that 10 years I would use the rattle gun maybe 4 times a year and if all the trigger times are added together, a total running time of 1 minute every year or 10 minutes total. Didn’t make sense. Also, a corded version is smaller to get into tight spots.
As I’m never more than 10 yards from a 13 amp socket, I figured corded was the way to go.
Anyway, the first job I had lined up was getting a seized 4 pot caliper off the Merc; these are held on by 2 x 10mm hex heads and the correct socket with a metre long breaker bar wouldn’t shift them. What Mercedes do on the production line is to marinate the bolts in Loctite for 24 hours then spin them in to a gazillion ftlbs torque; they then get drenched with rainwater, salt and crud for 30 years and they are as good as welded in.
But hey, the rattle gun worked! But what I wasn’t prepared for was the sheer violence of the operation; it tried to spin out of my hand, battered my ears with a cacophony of noise, blurred my vision and showered me in rust dust, brake dust and bits of mud that fell out of the wheel-arch on the back of my neck. Not fun.
The next job was the counter-sunk 6mm screw that holds the disc on to the hub. This also could not be moved with hammering on the end of an impact driver. So, I thought no problem; I changed the hex socket and all my senses were assaulted again and it just snapped the head off. Bummer ! So I’ve got that to drill out today.
So, all in all, a great tool but just have to be careful where I use it.
Thanks again for all the advice from the forum – really helpful. That’s just how forums should be.
Stay safe.
Phil.
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Good result :D
I used my £20 Lidl air rattle gun yesterday on the clutch centre nut and the alternator bolt on the Kawasaki Z400J, both nuts were done up to 90Lbs (according to Mr Haynes in his manual). Result, straight off and I didn't have to use a clutch holding tool, it just spun it off ;D.
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Good result :D
I used my £20 Lidl air rattle gun yesterday on the clutch centre nut and the alternator bolt on the Kawasaki Z400J, both nuts were done up to 90Lbs (according to Mr Haynes in his manual). Result, straight off and I didn't have to use a clutch holding tool, it just spun it off ;D.
I use exactly the same Dave. Suits my needs!
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You can't beat 'The middle at Lidl' Tim. They have some really great tools I bought a set of 10 assorted mini-burrs for a dremel a couple of years ago, £2.99, I've used them a few times, great value. :D
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Its the 3 year warranty on electrical goods too that is a comfort if worried re cheap and quality... Ditto Lidl. Perhaps not the tools for pros but fine for occasional muppets like me!
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It least replace the cable on that drill before you blow yourself up.
Nah, install a new cord (maybe a set of brushes while at it)... the thing will serve another decade or two 8)
While I too worked with a Weller soldering-gun as shown (decades ago), the huge soldering-irons shown rather remind of roofing-tools... ;)
A bit off topic & I dont want to hijack your post but................
It says on your profile that you are in Vienna ! I was born in Klagenfurt !
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It says on your profile that you are in Vienna ! I was born in Klagenfurt !
Jo servas! 8)