Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => SOHC Singles & Twins => Topic started by: Craizeehair on September 18, 2023, 10:39:51 PM
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Hoping for some thoughts from you who know about these bikes, I’m looking for something for my first project, does this look ok, original enough or a bit of a lost cause?
I’m in no rush to complete. I have a couple of other bikes to ride, so I can take my time and learn as I go.
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That seems a nice project. It's virtually all original but if you want to mint it, chrome and paint is the big cost
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The most unloved twin on the uk market, parts are rare and if not looked after cams sieze, nice reasonable ride but imho will never be worth a lot
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Thanks for the input, I’m not sure I want to make it minty, or even have the ability yet but it’s more to get me going as a first strip down and restoration attempt, to what level I’m not sure?
Noted on the parts and maintenance.
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Looks reasonable at a glance though I am not familiar with the model - as has been said some parts might be difficult to find - my first project was a 400 I chose that as there are plenty of new & used parts to be had so you can do it cheaply (ish) or expensive your choice.
When it is time to sell mine it will make a loss on what I spent but for me it was all about the build & learning after decades of not working on bikes.
There is a market for 400's it will sell if it has to go - I did it for the fun, challenge, heartache and joy when I first rode it. As you will know from watching TV most do it as a loss making hobby. We call them money pits for a reason.
As well as the initial purchase price do not forget you might need some tools & equipment to work on it comfortably if you do not already have a bike ramp. You will no doubt have thought about these things so I might be stating the obvious - lastly sticking to a budget is virtually impossible as there is always the unexpected problem just around the next corner.
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Pretty looking bike but much maligned because of the fragility of its top end and the un-necessary gimmicky 6th gear.. The cam runs in the alloy head so if it picks up and scores the journals you are talking a replacement head as well as cam and probably rockers. Decent used cams are very rare as are the cylinder heads with decent bearing surfaces, Acres of chrome so very expensive bike to rechrome.
So a bit of a gamble really. The problem stems probably from the fact that you can't access the centrifugal oil filter without removing the exhaust and clutch cover, so cleaning the filter was probably often skipped. The earlier K models had a removable plate to gain access to the oil filter plus they had replaceable cam bearing covers. Shares quite a few parts with the 400/4 ..like forks and wheels/brakes.
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See if you can do a video call and listen for rattles etc.
Dont think there are many special tools, biggest cost would be exhausts which are pretty much impossible to find.
Exactly same as the learner 250 G5 except for bore size as i remember, one problem a member here had recently was carb diaphram which have to be getting old and fragile, would be worth searching dave silver by model to get an idea of what is available
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My advise is just one word.
Don’t
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My advise is just one word.
Don’t
Did you actually own one Ken? Or was it your experience in the workshop at Queenies of them?
Funnily enough, a few years back, I had a blue G5 250 with only 2K genuine miles that I pulled out from a damp shed basically got it for free... ..... Long gone now and the buyer did an awesome job restoring it but when I brought it home and cleaned it up my, kids said it was one of the best looking bikes of all of the ones I have ;D and wanted me to keep it ! It was a very late one, with the cam chain tensioner sorted out at the factory (another early Achilles Heel point :( ) ..... pics attached are 'as I found' and after the buyer restored it.
Plus the 360 version may be a lot less gutless than the more maligned 250. I think if the cam and head were OK on this it would be a decent project but there's the rub .. . Also pretty sure that Brituro amazingly do repro silencers (or they did) for that model. Another plus is that they are all painted in metallic, not candy paint, so cheaper to repaint and Piki does excellent tank stripes. The guy at Summerbud (Nick? ) recently did some marathon run on a 360 version one for a charity event
On the CJ that replaced it they lengthened the forks and swinging arm, ditched the electric start and 6th gear and got rid of lots of the chromed bits. Now that model really is a Marmite bike with unobtanium 2 into 1 exhaust system as standard. Charlie at Oxford classics had one last year that some bloke had fitted NOS parts inc exhaust seat etc but it had gained a 'patina' in storage, which put me off recommending it.
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Thanks for all the replies, they are all very much appreciated. I don’t think that I will be rushing into this one.
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Pretty looking bike but much maligned because of the fragility of its top end and the un-necessary gimmicky 6th gear.. The cam runs in the alloy head so if it picks up and scores the journals you are talking a replacement head as well as cam and probably rockers. Decent used cams are very rare as are the cylinder heads with decent bearing surfaces, Acres of chrome so very expensive bike to rechrome.
So a bit of a gamble really. The problem stems probably from the fact that you can't access the centrifugal oil filter without removing the exhaust and clutch cover, so cleaning the filter was probably often skipped. The earlier K models had a removable plate to gain access to the oil filter plus they had replaceable cam bearing covers. Shares quite a few parts with the 400/4 ..like forks and wheels/brakes.
I agree with you Ash, a good looking bike from that era. I like the USA spec short rear mudguard and having a good drum front brake a little different from others to own as well as being good brakes.
Of course there's risk in buying anything old in regard to internal wear, depends on the attitude to what you could waste if you bought it too. Maybe an attractive offer to the dealer could swing that bias for purchasing it as if would cap the loss, if it's an internal disaster, to that entry price. Just another way to look at it.
The oil filter, I hold a differing view on this to maybe a conventional analysis. The filter can only ever filter out bits that have come off into the flow from oil failure of some description. Concentrate on oil specification and condition and the problem usually won't occur. Running a few notable poor camshaft reputation engines, I make every effort to stop it happening primarily and with good results. That clearly can't account for previous history here, but believe there's a decent route in discussion to run one from now in avoiding pitfalls.
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I'd buy that if the engine is in the condition the seller states it is.
Just service it and clean it up, don't fix stuff unless it's broken, then run it with it's lovely patina looks.
For £1495 it's cheaper than a new Chinese scooter.
However if you're looking for something to fully restore avoid this, because as Bryan points out parts could be rare and expensive. You'll spend way more than it's worth and then find it's not all that re-sellable
BTW
my brother bought a new CB360G5 back in days, a much underrated bike IMHO.
good luck
Skoti
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My advise is just one word.
Don’t
Did you actually own one Ken? Or was it your experience in the workshop at Queenies of them?
Funnily enough, a few years back, I had a blue G5 250 with only 2K genuine miles that I pulled out from a damp shed basically got it for free... ..... Long gone now and the buyer did an awesome job restoring it but when I brought it home and cleaned it up my, kids said it was one of the best looking bikes of all of the ones I have ;D and wanted me to keep it ! It was a very late one, with the cam chain tensioner sorted out at the factory (another early Achilles Heel point :( ) ..... pics attached are 'as I found' and after the buyer restored it.
Plus the 360 version may be a lot less gutless than the more maligned 250. I think if the cam and head were OK on this it would be a decent project but there's the rub .. . Also pretty sure that Brituro amazingly do repro silencers (or they did) for that model. Another plus is that they are all painted in metallic, not candy paint, so cheaper to repaint and Piki does excellent tank stripes. The guy at Summerbud (Nick? ) recently did some marathon run on a 360 version one for a charity event
On the CJ that replaced it they lengthened the forks and swinging arm, ditched the electric start and 6th gear and got rid of lots of the chromed bits. Now that model really is a Marmite bike with unobtanium 2 into 1 exhaust system as standard. Charlie at Oxford classics had one last year that some bloke had fitted NOS parts inc exhaust seat etc but it had gained a 'patina' in storage, which put me off recommending it.
I did a couple of foreigners on them and the test rides were eventful. Slow, not as slow as the CJ version but so slow it just put me off. TBH it's not a bad looking bike but god it's slow. I like something that goes when you twist the throttle and this ain't it.
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My advise is just one word.
Don’t
Did you actually own one Ken? Or was it your experience in the workshop at Queenies of them?
Funnily enough, a few years back, I had a blue G5 250 with only 2K genuine miles that I pulled out from a damp shed basically got it for free... ..... Long gone now and the buyer did an awesome job restoring it but when I brought it home and cleaned it up my, kids said it was one of the best looking bikes of all of the ones I have ;D and wanted me to keep it ! It was a very late one, with the cam chain tensioner sorted out at the factory (another early Achilles Heel point :( ) ..... pics attached are 'as I found' and after the buyer restored it.
Plus the 360 version may be a lot less gutless than the more maligned 250. I think if the cam and head were OK on this it would be a decent project but there's the rub .. . Also pretty sure that Brituro amazingly do repro silencers (or they did) for that model. Another plus is that they are all painted in metallic, not candy paint, so cheaper to repaint and Piki does excellent tank stripes. The guy at Summerbud (Nick? ) recently did some marathon run on a 360 version one for a charity event
On the CJ that replaced it they lengthened the forks and swinging arm, ditched the electric start and 6th gear and got rid of lots of the chromed bits. Now that model really is a Marmite bike with unobtanium 2 into 1 exhaust system as standard. Charlie at Oxford classics had one last year that some bloke had fitted NOS parts inc exhaust seat etc but it had gained a 'patina' in storage, which put me off recommending it.
I did a couple of foreigners on them and the test rides were eventful. Slow, not as slow as the CJ version but so slow it just put me off. TBH it's not a bad looking bike but god it's slow. I like something that goes when you twist the throttle and this ain't it.
You must have had a dud!. I have just bought one. I was really surprised how torquey it is. Very happy to tool around on this bike and I'm used to something rather bigger.
Really pleased with it. Just spending a few bob on it to tidy it up.
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One might have been a dud but both? Maybe our definitions of slow are different, when I was testing these it was back in the days of my production racing and that sort of skews your views on speed I'd imagine. Oddly I found the 250N a much better bike. The 400N even more so.
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I have the same model in blue. The front drum brake one. Easy to sort out. Cheap(ish) to restore. The 360 is far better than the 250. Easy engine to repair. Best if there are no rattles/smoke from engine, but can be sorted. Looks like a good starting point - not that expensive if engine ok.
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One might have been a dud but both? Maybe our definitions of slow are different, when I was testing these it was back in the days of my production racing and that sort of skews your views on speed I'd imagine. Oddly I found the 250N a much better bike. The 400N even more so.
I guess jumping on one these after racing might just be an influence ! Ha ha!
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Well, I couldn’t resist in the end. I managed to get a good deal on the bike and it was delivered this morning. I squeezed it into the garage and now need to wait for the new shed to be sorted before I can start playing with it as there just isnt enough space. First impressions are as expected, the triple tree is broken but I knew that from the photos, I’ve had it up and down the road, it selects all gears fine, the engine doesn’t sound too bad but we will see when I get the top off in time.
I’m not sure what my intentions are for it yet as this is the first bike and engine I will have had in bits, I have a sneaking suspicion that this will be a bit of a practice bike and lots of mistakes will be made along the way, so I don’t think I’m going to go all in on this and will probably use it to learn a bit and make presentable?
I’m sure I will ask all kind of daft questions along the way, so apologies and thanks in advance!
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Well done indeed.
I'm gonna be following your CB360 renovation with interest.
Good luck
skoti
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Thanks, it will be a while before I can get going and it won’t be quick! Or good possibly come to that! But I’m looking forward to it.
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Yay, good stuff, and easy for us to spend someone else's money :)
More seriously, it looks like a good project and a little but different to have a start with in your learning phase.
It'll be interesting to see how you get on.
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Well done ! looks a decent project....... Piki on here Does the tank pinstripes by the way.
my 1st Priority would be to check the cyl. head cam bearings.
The top yoke is the same as the CB250/350K4 if I remember correctly. They are not easy to find undamaged bue to clamps breaking but around if you search long enough.
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Looks like a nice little bike.
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Two weeks ago I applied for a registration and today I received an envelope through the door from DVLA. I opened it in anticipation but it was a letter to advise me that it needs to be inspected.
Not a huge deal hopefully, I’m in no rush as I’m still waiting for the base to be laid for the new shed, so the bike is strapped to the lift untouched and likely to stay that way for a few months before I even start to think about stripping anything but I’m just hoping it’s not a cause for concern, it’s my first attempt at registering an import.
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Normally all the want is to check the frame and engine numbers are what you quoted and not altered
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Normally all the want is to check the frame and engine numbers are what you quoted and not altered
Thanks Bryan, sounds painless.
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Well, I have finally had a new shed built, I still have to insulate and board it out but the bike is in there and I couldn’t resist having a little time with it. It seems that so far I have been quite lucky, the registration was a piece of cake and I now have a V5 for the bike, there have been no screws or bolts that have fought me and everything has come apart very easily.
I found the original owners manual under the seat, no toolkit unfortunately, a couple of stickers that show the bike from Michigan, all quite lovely so far…
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Until I thought I would pop the carbs off and have a quick look see at the state of the bowls etc…
I must say at this point, I have ridden bikes on and off for approx 35 years, but my spannering has been limited, bolting on parts, silencers, brakes etc. My intention is to have a good go at this bike and get it back into half decent shape, something to learn on if you will. Certainly not a concourse restoration, we all have to start somewhere.
The bowls etc looked alright to me, nothing too scary there.
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I checked the diaphragms and one had a pin hole, so that will need replacing but the thing that stopped me in my tracks was the damage to the bottom of the slides, I have an overwhelming sense of dread!! Can anyone advise what would cause this, if it’s common, normal (surely not) and if it’s terminal?
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*Edited to add:
I also carried out a compression test, and had 140 on one and 125 on the other, stone cold, as the tank had been removed previously, I’m happy enough with that for starters.
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Those look to me to be screwdriver marks, most likely because the slide jammed in the carbs, maybe the carbs were all gummed up with old petrol and unlike the fours those aren't able to be lifted mechanically. So they inserted a screwdriver from front and back and tried to lever them out. May explain why the carb bowls are so clean, it's been cleaned out before.
IIRC if you need to replace the diaphragms, the slide comes with it. So no real harm done, check the carb body for similar marks though.
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Ah, that makes sense, thank you. Looks like DSS has these in stock so I will get a couple ordered.
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You can get replacement pattern diaphragms from the likes of NRP. Not sure how well the originals will stand up to E10 fuel even if NOS.
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You can get replacement pattern diaphragms from the likes of NRP. Not sure how well the originals will stand up to E10 fuel even if NOS.
Thanks, am I best to replace the whole thing rather than just the diaphragms though given the damage, or will that make no difference to the operation?
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I was reading somewhere recently which said the original rings and stuff in carbs were viton based.
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Genuine Keihin OEM slide/diaphragm assemblies NOS are going to be very expensive, that's even if you can find them NOS.
Interested to hear what others say but even though the bottoms of your slides look grotty, I don't think that will affect the operation. Maybe gently file away anything that is above the flat surface.
I would be wary of any replacements with the slide included from China... better to use your originals. The DS ones don't really state the origin and he has been subject to selling some junk repro stuff recently. That's not to say the diaphragm assemblies are no good but need more info from them.
These people have a good reputation and state that their diaphragms are Viton™ and don't require cutting of the plastic ring.
https://nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=5660&search=honda+cb360
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Agree with assessment already posted, looks like the main jets and needle had become stuck in old solidified fuel, then someone has got a lever in there to pry them loose.
Damage looks worse than the effect it will have in practical use. The primary air control is with the butterfly plates, these slide just responding to relative vacuum below and above the slide to hold parity and place the needle metering in proportion.
Cleaning off the raised bits carefully to bring the profile back to original would be my planned course of correction. Their mass and overall dimensions likely only affected in such a minor way as to be insignificant in operating accuracy.
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Thanks for all of the responses, very helpful indeed.
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Whilst I agree with both Ash and Nigel he's going to have to replace them as at least one of the diaphragms has a hole in it. I'd replace both just to make sure they act the same. Unless the replacements are genuine of course.
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Now the shed is finished I have been able to get a few more hours in and bits are coming off. I have been undecided what to do with this but have made my mind up to use as much from this bike as possible. Strip, clean, paint, keep some patina and make do to buy as little as possible, a safe rustic rider if you will and try to keep the spend to a minimum. As I have never attempted anything like this before all the emphasis will be on learning as much as I can by stripping and rebuilding it and move on to something else with more experience under my belt.
It’s pretty minging in places.
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Can anyone shed some light on this rogue piece I found on the bench? I would be very grateful for any help.
I managed to remove the engine from the frame today, after I had wrestled it free I noticed this piece sat on the bench. I’m not sure what it is, where it came from or what it is for. Didn’t take long for me to come unstuck!
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That looks like an upper engine mount spacer if it's a bit like a 400 one.
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Thanks Ted, I did think it may be a spacer but no real idea from where, if it was.
Just remembered the parts books are listed here, maybe shown there. I’m off to take a look.
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Found it, spacer for the lower left bracket.
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A similar spacer was missing on my 400 the PO replaced it with about 8 washers!
Max came to the rescue with a SS one - cost less than a replacement from CMS.
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I got into the engine tonight to check the cam bearings and cam shaft as advised. I think I’ve been lucky, everything seems to be in good shape there. A couple of the rocker arms appear to have some substantial pitting. If anyone has any advice as to the actual condition of these bits and if I’m wrong about the condition, I would be all ears.
On the down side, I think I may have found a problem. I cleaned up the engine a bit and found what looks to be a crack, as a complete novice I’m unsure of what to do or if I have this wrong, again, any feedback would be greatly appreciated. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240223/daa79f047cbd30ff42346139288f7032.jpg)
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I don't think that's a crack it's a mould flash mark.
Some wear on cam flanks typical of that model. Journals don't look too bad ... again for that model as I have seen some real horrors..
May be worth sending cam and rockers to Newman cams for assessment.
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I don't think that's a crack it's a mould flash mark.
Some wear on cam flanks typical of that model. Journals don't look too bad ... again for that model as I have seen some real horrors..
May be worth sending cam and rockers to Newman cams for assessment.
Thanks Ash, much appreciated.
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I agree with Ash thats a casting flash, cam and head in very good condition, if you cant get better rockers they will run as long as you are not racing!
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Thanks Bryan, I’m really pleased with that.
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Yes casting marks can appear very scary when you first find them.
It all does look pretty good.
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My view of the rocker faces, they definitely need attention....Newman cams a good place to have them repaired and reground to specification.
The pitting on them directly wrecks the oil film that's supposed to keep the materials apart (follower and camshaft) with likely a short life thereafter. This is often the result of poor oil condition from servicing and or, dilution of the oil from petrol contamination, short journeys etc.
Generally looks pretty clean and good condition in there.
Agree with casting marks, the method of die-casting has a jigsaw puzzle of moulds to form the shape in which to cast, when opened to get the crankcase out then imperfect mould joints leave these characteristic split lines where those joints exist. Not detrimental at all.
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My view of the rocker faces, they definitely need attention....Newman cams a good place to have them repaired and reground to specification.
The pitting on them directly wrecks the oil film that's supposed to keep the materials apart (follower and camshaft) with likely a short life thereafter. This is often the result of poor oil condition from servicing and or, dilution of the oil from petrol contamination, short journeys etc.
Generally looks pretty clean and good condition in there.
Agree with casting marks, the method of die-casting has a jigsaw puzzle of moulds to form the shape in which to cast, when opened to get the crankcase out then imperfect mould joints leave these characteristic split lines where those joints exist. Not detrimental at all.
What do you reckon to the arrowed areas on this shot of the cam lobes please Nigel? Is that due to oil starvation/lack of oil change at correct intervals. I wouldn't personally run replacement rockers on that until it was reground. Not sure if that cam is chilled iron or not. I have seen this a lot on G5 cams and not K model cams (K model cams are usually pitted badly).
Of course there is the old adage of how many miles it will do after restoration or lack of them but I am not from that school of thought. I would want it to be right.
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Guess who got an ultrasonic cleaner and couldn’t wait to mess about with it!
I set about cleaning a few bits and bobs and had the bright idea of cleaning the rocker cover, it cleaned it ok but it has changed the colour dramatically. My question tho those who know is, if a this still ok to use… The journals are in the same condition but no longer bright, will this matter, will the integrity of the part be compromised? I do have a spare which has a ok but not quite as good as this one.
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Guess who got an ultrasonic cleaner and couldn’t wait to mess about with it!
I set about cleaning a few bits and bobs and had the bright idea of cleaning the rocker cover, it cleaned it ok but it has changed the colour dramatically. My question tho those who know is, if a this still ok to use… The journals are in the same condition but no longer bright, will this matter, will the integrity of the part be compromised? I do have a spare which has a ok but not quite as good as this one.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240305/05602c83b8bff364e354c0eba44488f5.jpg)
Any fluid / additive that is mildly caustic based, causes alloy to go black. It can also wear alloy away and make it porus, depending on how long it was immersed for.
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As Julie said it looks like something caustic has discoloured the alluminium - much like a dishwasher does if you put an alluminium sauspan in by mistake. (Guilty)
If its light staining as opposed to surface corrosion it might not be an issue.
I use the Allendale Cleaning Solution for Alluminium parts like carbs etc.
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Should be ok to use, just not pretty
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Thanks all, lesson learned.
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As Ted just advised, use Allendale products in the ultrasonic. They do a wide range of products depending what you are cleaning.
Don't put aluminium pans in the dishwasher but they are great for cleaning the wiring loom, just make sure the coast is clear!
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Funnily enough, I was just looking at the Allendale site, I should have known better but who doesn’t love a new toy! I guess I know the answer but is there any way to get this back or is it a case of damage done and move on?
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Well that’s a fight I wasn’t expecting… If I had done my homework and read a couple of threads here I would have known better!
I can’t get this centre stand pin to budge and no surprise there it seems. I’m not sure if it’s going to be worth the aggravation just to clean it up and paint it, I’m sure I could do that in situ. Are there any real reasons that I should, is the whole thing likely collapse on me if I dont?
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Presumably the pin is rotating with the stand, so moving in the frame fixings.
Could try the usual cycle of easing oils and heat. Put something between any hammering device and the pin as they are easily distorted.
I had one on a 500 and I had to thread a hacksaw blade through it and saw through it to free it.
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I would be tempted to weld a blob on to the pin where the gap in the bracket is tighten that bolt up and then try and turn by folding stand, or even welding end of pin to bracket.
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Thanks both, that’s exactly what it’s doing, unfortunately I have no welding gear. I am tempted to leave it for now but don’t want to cause more problems by doing so. If it’s not a big deal I would be happy to deal with it further down the line.
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Not really a big deal just keep the ends of the pin greased to prevent ovaling of the brackets.
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Removing the stand pivot pin just takes time I managed it without welding gear just used some drills, small chisel & a Hacksaw blade threaded through. The replacement pins on my 400 were solid so should be easier to remove in the future.
You will only regret it later if you leave it as it is. Your shout I was 74 when I removed mine, so much easier if you are working with a bare frame. Do it once do it right is my motto. 👍
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I always drill 'em out. Never had a lot of success with the hacksaw method. Or on occasion remove the pivot tube completely and weld in a section of tube from a Vauxhall Corsa wheel nut wrench.
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Drilling sounds like it would be a decent option for me, any idea what drill size you normally use Ash?
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I never thought of it at the time - afterwards I did wonder if a couple of really close fitting bolts with a thick washers could be inserted on each side then give them a good thump with a lump hammer. The bolt might stop the tube from distorting alternate on each side in the hope of breaking the rust layer after thorough soaking in penetrating oil. Even better if the tube was threaded to take the bolts?
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I never thought of it at the time - afterwards I did wonder if a couple of really close fitting bolts with a thick washers could be inserted on each side then give them a good thump with a lump hammer. The bolt might stop the tube from distorting alternate on each side in the hope of breaking the rust layer after thorough soaking in penetrating oil. Even better if the tube was threaded to take the bolts?
I tried everything Ted and even hack-sawing like many recommend on here but I found that the pivot tube was severely corroded to the centre stand (all UK bikes, so used in all kinds of weather unlike USA bikes). I did about five of my centre stands and also my friends CB250K4 early last year by drilling out and success on every one. The good thing is that the original pivot tube was hollow so the drill centres pretty good.
I need to check the exact size of the drill I used though .. from memory it was just slightly smaller than the pivot tube OD.
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I took the petcock off today and found both tubes were broken off. DSS sell the originals for a mere £100, before I look at a replacement does anyone know what the tube lengths should be or where I could try and find the information, can’t find anything so far and the likelihood of a successful repair?
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Good morning all, just going through a few bits this morning and it’s time to address this, does anyone have a recommendation as to what I could sleeve the starter motor cable with? The exisiting is rotten, the actual cable itself is fine, so I don’t really want to replace the whole thing unless I have to, plus they don’t seem that easy to find!
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Not sure on the exact sizes of the original rubber sleeving but this may be a starting point .. they do many other sizes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285006013277
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If you can re-use the end connections might be better to use new cable of the correct thickness.
I have noticed that battery cables seem to loose their suppleness with age not sure if that's just down to the insulation becoming hard or general oxidation of the wire itself. Could be a combination of both.
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Anybody on here actually replaced the cable! I have a starter motor that I have tested and works great but a PO has just cut the lead off and left about 3 to 4”. Maybe it was damaged.
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The starter on my 500 has a join in the cable quite close to the starter itself by a PO.
It's a nice shade of yellow, I've just improved the insulation on the joint as I didn't want to tamper with the starter motor connection.
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Not sure on the exact sizes of the original rubber sleeving but this may be a starting point .. they do many other sizes.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285006013277
That’s brilliant, thank you for that.
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I felt like I had lost my way a little with this, I was doing too many different things at once, so I have put the engine back m one piece and popped it in the corner for now and will revisit that near the end, that feels like the best way round to do things.
I’m just freshening up a few of the painted bits, not a back to metal and respray or powder coat job, just enough to smarten things up for now. I shouldn’t be too far away from refurbishing some bits and can start slowly putting things back on the frame.
It’s certainly doing its job of giving me loads of hands on experience as a first attempt and I’m loving it.
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I know that feeling, when assembling the frame parts - swing arms , front forks, centre stand, front mudguard, front wheel etc .
I have found it best to leave the rear mudguard, battery box & electric gubbins off the bike just fitting the rear wheel nipped up slightly for stability before fitting the engine in place. Handy to have the front bars in place as well even if no switches are fitted yet.
Its easier to re-fit the engine without wiring looms etc, also easier to fit the carbs and airbox before you fit the battery box & front section of rear mudguard in place I have found with my 400.
We all have our own ways towards the finishing post I guess depending on personal choice & if you have a bike ramp. My last jobs are fitting the exhuast system, seat & tank. Nothing worse than finding you have fitted items in place only to have to remove them again to get a part inside the frame etc.
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I wonder if anyone has any tips or tricks to remove the lower suspension rubber bushes from the swing arm??
I’ve tried pressing them out with a couple of sockets, that just resulted in me bending the bolt, tried soaking them and knocking them out with a punch but the little blighters won’t budge!!
Am I resigned to trying to cut them out and trying not to damage anything?
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I had the same problem on my 350/4. I had to cut from the centre with a junior hacksaw to the swing arm mount. The bush could be pressed out then.
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That was my thinking for next steps but was trying to avoid it if possible!
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I burnt mine out then a hacksaw on the outer sleeve.
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Either drill out or burn out.
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Hacksaw method works for me.👍
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Is it feasible to drill a few small holes in them to give the remaining rubber a bit of space to flex into when you try to press them out?
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The outer sleeve of the bush tend to corrode and hold onto the swing arm surprisingly well.
Drilling around the rubber will eventually enable the center section to come out.
Once you have a level saw cut on the outer sleeve the gap will then enable it to be drifted out.
On my 400, one pressed out easiy, the other fought me all the way, if I'd had a drill bit of the right size & a Pillar drill I would have used that.
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Thanks for the suggestions, I have burnt the centres out, tomorrow I will take a hacksaw to the outer sleeve and see if I can get that out without butchering it.
The swing arm bushes were a real struggle but I got there in the end, I will be replacing these with bronze bushes.
The CB360 swing arm has no grease nipple, for those in the know, is it worth fitting one and if so, any recommendations as to how / where and any particular grease nipples to go for? I’ve never fitted one before but happy to have a go, feels like there should be one around the middle of the swingarm?
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You might want check this out. A bit of an upgrade.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,30072.msg292298.html#msg292298
Hope the link works
Jerry
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You might want check this out. A bit of an upgrade.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,30072.msg292298.html#msg292298
Hope the link works
Jerry
Thank you Jerry,
I’ll have a good read of that later, much appreciated.
Greg
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I’ve put a few things back on the frame, the swinging arm with new bushes and lower shock bushes, centre stand, handlebars, top and bottom yokes with new tapered roller bearings and rebuilt front forks.
The wiring harness has been cleaned in the ultrasonic and I’ll attempt to fit that next, once it has dried. After that I plan to replace the wheel bearings and brake shoes, front and back then get the wheels back on to make it easier to move around again.
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Even though you might have used an Ultrasonic Bath to clean your loom. I would still use Cillit Bang Limescale Remover on the connections as per NJ's advice on previous posts.
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Thanks Ted, I will do that before it goes back on.
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Are those handlebars original fitting they look somewhat US style ones?
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Are those handlebars original fitting they look somewhat US style ones?
The bike is a US import.
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Sorted the brakes on both wheels, stripped, cleaned, new shoes etc and put them back on the bike so it’s a bit easier to handle. I’ll give them a clean up when they come back off for new tyres further down the line. Next thing is to get the wiring harness back in the place with correct routing, it’s just draped on the bike at the moment.
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