Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 08:57:07 AM
Post by: Bryanj on March 15, 2021, 09:36:19 AM
I am sure people on here would act as middle men to get spares to you but losses in the post to your country are common so it would all have to be at your risk and payment first
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 09:49:14 AM
our engines?
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 09:52:50 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on March 15, 2021, 10:03:15 AM
Have you tried CMSNL based in Holland for parts? Unlike DSS they have the exploded parts diagram on their website together with prices making ordering easy. Just make sure you order as many parts as possible in one go as their postage costs are very high.
Post by: Laverda Dave on March 15, 2021, 10:06:22 AM
Welcome to the forum Murdock. I like your style of restoration and taking the bike up to the house in the elevator, it reminds me of my younger days of taking a 400/4 engine apart on the family dinner table (where it stayed for weeks on end!).Sorry, I read your post again and see you have already tried CMSNL. There are big motorcycle breakers in Germany with a lot of old Honda sohc spares and who advertise on eBay, maybe worth a try.
Have you tried CMSNL based in Holland for parts? Unlike DSS they have the exploded parts diagram on their website together with prices making ordering easy. Just make sure you order as many parts as possible in one go as their postage costs are very high.
Post by: philward on March 15, 2021, 10:08:58 AM
Cruzinimagine on ebay sell some quality engine spares at good prices (Japan based)
Sorry, posted while Dave was posting so duplicated info!
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 10:18:48 AM
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 11:21:43 AM
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 06:35:47 PM
Post by: Piki on March 15, 2021, 07:32:11 PM
I am selling you my 550 and so you can make a new one.
Where are you locate in Spain?
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 08:36:03 PM
I would like, but I have 4 motorcycles, I live in Madrid, where do you buy spare parts? I want to make almost the entire engine, it already has 56,000 km and the chain is jerking, it also has little compression, the prices of cmsnl or David silver are terrible and on top of that they add VAT, in Spain I get almost nothing, where do you live?
Post by: Piki on March 15, 2021, 08:59:40 PM
Yo tambien vivo en Madrid y cuando necesito respuesto yo miro en Ebay, DSP, CMSNL y en este forum, aqui hay un monton de amigos que pueden ayudarte con algun repuesto y conocimientos. Las restauraciones nunca son barate y menos en estas cuatro cilindros, si tu quieres podemos quedar un dia y ver tu moto, a lo mejor puedo ayudarte.
Un saludo.
Post by: murdock on March 15, 2021, 11:04:33 PM
Hello, ok one day we meet, I live in Las Rozas. The motorcycle works but the engine is loose, it went through 7 owners before me, I bought it 6 years ago, in Galicia, the engine only changed the rings, lapped the valves and changed the seals, points and condensers plus the chain. time, it starts the first time but between the fact that it is not very well carburated and the lack of power I no longer exceed 120, I plan to open it completely and change the primary chain, studs, seals, segments and bearings that are still available, pistons and rings , I still have to find a rectifier nearby, little by little I am buying the parts, when the homologation of the guzzi is finished, I destroy it, do you know if there is a list of the necessary parts to rebuild the lower part
Post by: Skoti on March 16, 2021, 05:33:46 PM
here's some places you could try that are cheaper than CMSNL.
http://www.ddmototeam.com/mobile/articles_honda.php?type_moto=17&type=pc (http://www.ddmototeam.com/mobile/articles_honda.php?type_moto=17&type=pc)
This guy has the biggest stock of new and used classic Honda parts in Germany.
Wolfgang Drescher, Ersatzteile für klassische Hondas
Frankfurter Str. 40 63584 Rothenbergen
FAX 06051/16562
He also sells from ebay
https://www.ebay.de/str/drescherheistermoparts (https://www.ebay.de/str/drescherheistermoparts)
https://www.classiccyclecity.de/ (https://www.classiccyclecity.de/)
https://www.classic-bikes.de/ (https://www.classic-bikes.de/)
http://www.four-schmiede.de/ (http://www.four-schmiede.de/)
Post by: philward on March 16, 2021, 07:02:39 PM
- and as in Europe, no duties
https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/kawasaki-parts/920571011?currency=GBP&withvat=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxZvMhMah7gIVyrTtCh39NQiJEAQYASABEgIWtPD_BwE
Post by: murdock on March 16, 2021, 09:19:23 PM
Post by: murdock on March 16, 2021, 09:23:25 PM
Post by: murdock on March 16, 2021, 09:25:26 PM
Post by: murdock on March 17, 2021, 02:16:15 PM
Post by: murdock on March 18, 2021, 08:19:31 PM
from below I move it easily with a finger upwards, it also has play to the sides, I found some marks that confirm its flight
Post by: murdock on March 18, 2021, 08:23:39 PM
Post by: Bryanj on March 18, 2021, 08:56:38 PM
Post by: murdock on March 18, 2021, 09:38:19 PM
I should buy the primary shaft rubbers, the bearings, I still don't know whether to order the transmission ones as well, I don't think they are necessary
Post by: K2-K6 on March 18, 2021, 10:02:51 PM
Post by: murdock on March 18, 2021, 10:42:56 PM
Chain pins are that colour because they were that colour originally, same for the plates, they started off that colour.
If your changing the chain, change the damper rubbers as well.
Yes, they are without any doubt, but should I also change the primary gear bearings?
18 . 19 .and 26 ?
Post by: murdock on March 18, 2021, 10:45:32 PM
Post by: murdock on March 19, 2021, 07:34:28 PM
Is the grey marking on the chain just old oil, can it be wiped off with a tissue?yes ,it's just a shine from the oil
Post by: murdock on March 19, 2021, 07:39:39 PM
Post by: Bryanj on March 19, 2021, 08:23:01 PM
Seal Kit
Primary and cam chains
Primary damper rubbers
It is unusual to find shells worn but they can be damaged by dirty oil
Post by: murdock on March 21, 2021, 03:49:16 PM
Thanks guys
Post by: Bryanj on March 21, 2021, 04:42:05 PM
Hondabond used VERY sparingly between crankcase halves nothing on any paper gasket
Post by: murdock on March 23, 2021, 01:12:38 PM
Permatex ultra grey
Post by: murdock on March 25, 2021, 10:03:30 PM
Hello again, I have already bought shock absorbers for the primary transmission, the chain is waiting for me at the post office, the sealant is on the way, but now I have to buy the plasti gauge to measure the gap, but I don't know what measure to buy, In ebay eu there are several for sale, but I don't know which one to choose, could someone help me with the choice, thanks
Post by: taysidedragon on March 26, 2021, 01:11:13 AM
Post by: murdock on March 26, 2021, 05:52:30 PM
Post by: murdock on March 26, 2021, 05:55:36 PM
sorry no idea of inches
Post by: philward on March 26, 2021, 07:28:10 PM
sorry no idea of inches
Try this converter Murdock
https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/length/inch-to-mm.html?insel=u&fracsel=u&f=&x=.001&n=&d=
Phil
Post by: Bryanj on March 26, 2021, 08:02:09 PM
Post by: murdock on March 26, 2021, 09:15:39 PM
Post by: taysidedragon on March 27, 2021, 12:36:52 AM
I guess the green .
Red worked fine for me.
Post by: murdock on March 27, 2021, 11:07:05 AM
Post by: murdock on March 28, 2021, 01:20:18 PM
you have more experience than me in this
tank you
Post by: deltarider on March 28, 2021, 01:45:30 PM
a question for the experts, the bridge top is the same as other models ?, I want to change the one of my motorcycle f2 550 ss 1977https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/oempartfinder?aribrand=HOM&arian=motorcycle# Enter part no: 53230-390-010 gives:
you have more experience than me in this
tank you
CB550FA (76) SUPER SPORT 550 FOUR, JPN, VIN# CB550F-2000003 TO CB550F-2010866
CB550FA (77) SUPER SPORT 550 FOUR, JPN, VIN# CB550F-2100001 TO CB550F-2114871
CB550KA (77) 550 FOUR K, JPN, VIN# CB550K-2000007 TO CB550K-2015308
CB550KA (78) 550 FOUR K, JPN, VIN# CB550K-2100001 TO CB550K-2122082
The part was superseded by 53231-390-010 which gives the same result.
Sorry, I don't know the difference if any. Also note that forsaid parts finder site is about US models.
It could have to do with the changed bolts: 8X56 was changed to flange bolts 7X54 (PN: 90155-369-000) on later models. Could. This modification was done because people sometimes forgot to insert the special 'D' shaped space washers into the slits. When then torqued, the top bridge could crack. If you go to the parts lists, you'll probably find out. They're all here: http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb550 Let us know. ;D
Post by: murdock on March 28, 2021, 06:42:12 PM
Post by: murdock on March 28, 2021, 06:45:39 PM
Post by: murdock on March 28, 2021, 09:55:34 PM
Post by: murdock on March 28, 2021, 10:03:57 PM
It's 38 pounds for the yoke, plus 13.99 for shipping plus 12.68 for import charges, the damage that #@%$ has done
Post by: murdock on March 28, 2021, 10:05:58 PM
Post by: murdock on April 03, 2021, 10:52:05 PM
Post by: philward on April 03, 2021, 10:54:44 PM
Post by: murdock on April 03, 2021, 11:05:08 PM
I have found the chain tensioner that has been threaded, surely it ever made a complete turn, it is already repaired and it works perfectly
then I have been watching some videos of how to close again to measure with plastigauge, and I have found an unpleasant surprise if they change the connecting rod bolts, 9 euros each bolt + 9 euros each nut !!!!! , I think they will remain untouched, is there another way to see how the bearings are without separating them?
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 12:28:13 AM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 09:33:19 AM
Post by: philward on April 04, 2021, 10:54:58 AM
You may find that getting a socket onto the big end nuts proves a problem, I ended up around 40 years ago now grinding a socket down around the outside to allow it to fit. I still have that socket today and it's found a lot of use over the years.
Not sure if you can buy a socket to fit nowadays but that was my solution. It was also the only way to get the correct torque on after or I'd have used a spanner.
I recently had to do the same
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 11:16:40 AM
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 01:07:57 PM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 01:13:56 PM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 01:17:19 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 01:57:51 PM
See what size feeler gauge you can get alongside piston skirt at 90deg to wristpin and what is the piston ring gap in the bore?
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 03:00:29 PM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 03:06:10 PM
numero 1 tengo el mismo gap que en la foto , varia muy , muy poco
what I have seen is that in all cylinders and in all heights or positions, always with the piston skirt
number 1 I have the same gap as in the photo, it varies very, very little
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 05:02:41 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 05:22:34 PM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 06:02:42 PM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 06:12:27 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 06:55:15 PM
Piston are manufactured oval in the fist place so the measurement along wristpin is irrelevant.
0.04 mm is about 0.0015 thou so within tolerance for re use
If the ring gaps in bore are within tollerance you are good to go
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 07:07:45 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 08:15:45 PM
Try standing the head on the inlet ports and filling the exhaust ports with petrol to see if the exhaust valves leak then after that turn it over stand it on the exhaust ports and fill the inlets.
In both cases the gasket surface will be vertical with a set of ports on the top
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 08:40:20 PM
Post by: murdock on April 04, 2021, 09:11:36 PM
now it doesn't matter
It will be very entertaining to rebuild the engine, I guess this week I'll open it
Thank you very much for your assistance
Post by: K2-K6 on April 04, 2021, 10:07:49 PM
Also, put the barrel upside down and let the piston go all the way down to the end of bore. If you measure them right at the bottom of the barrel, then it won't show much wear as the piston rings don't travel that far down.
Likely with velocity stacks that the rings will be worn as no dust is filtered very effectively. Just depends whether bores are too. If it runs rich as well that won't help the rings as it washes oil from the bores to increase wear.
Post by: Bryanj on April 04, 2021, 10:36:13 PM
Post by: murdock on April 05, 2021, 06:49:15 AM
ok, that sounds good, I'll try next time, thanks for the tip
Post by: murdock on April 05, 2021, 11:30:35 AM
Post by: K2-K6 on April 05, 2021, 12:00:43 PM
But the barrels will not be worn at the top or the bottom, the piston rings don't go there when running.
Same as your picture, but 1/2 way into the barrels.
Post by: murdock on April 05, 2021, 07:27:37 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on April 05, 2021, 07:37:32 PM
Leave everything as it is in that picture BUT now move the gauge 1/4 around the piston and check there.
Post by: murdock on April 05, 2021, 07:56:51 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on April 05, 2021, 08:17:21 PM
That is how they would be machined originally to make the clearance correct. If each piston in it's own barrel has the same measurement, then it looks like it just needs new rings and light hone to build again.
Post by: murdock on April 05, 2021, 08:35:51 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on April 05, 2021, 09:18:09 PM
Just my understanding when looking at the picture. Another one to translate is "Babel fish" if you need one.
Hopefully someone else on here more involved in this size engine can suggest a supply of piston rings for you.
Post by: Bryanj on April 05, 2021, 09:51:54 PM
Post by: murdock on April 05, 2021, 10:23:39 PM
Post by: murdock on April 06, 2021, 06:56:16 AM
Post by: Bryanj on April 06, 2021, 07:23:58 AM
Post by: K2-K6 on April 06, 2021, 08:47:00 AM
58.5 is standard size for a 550 so you need standard rings and i wouldnt hone just take the glaze off with emery cloth or a "flap wheel"
Yes, about "glaze busting" but I was unsure how that would translate into Spanish language :) "rompiendo el esmalte"
Post by: Bryanj on April 06, 2021, 10:05:22 AM
Post by: murdock on April 06, 2021, 10:30:27 AM
Post by: murdock on April 06, 2021, 07:52:49 PM
Post by: Erny on April 06, 2021, 10:12:02 PM
I'll be working on my engine probably next winter so I want to prepare myself ;)
Post by: Bryanj on April 07, 2021, 12:06:42 AM
Post by: murdock on April 07, 2021, 07:38:49 AM
Post by: Bryanj on April 07, 2021, 03:05:33 PM
Honda rings are best but dearest as well.
I have some of those flap wheels here but not sure of postage cost to you
Post by: murdock on April 07, 2021, 07:14:52 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 07, 2021, 09:13:46 PM
Post by: murdock on April 09, 2021, 09:38:12 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 10, 2021, 04:20:40 PM
Post by: murdock on April 10, 2021, 08:03:02 PM
the few times that I have changed rings I have used a 3-legged grinding wheel like the one in the photo and I have gently scratched the surface with oil, I will see how it looks with the dry-mounted sandpaper, I have taken the precaution of buying a finer grit (150 ) I'll show you how it looks, I haven't bought the rings yet, I don't know whether to buy the 4 INTO 1 or the IMD ones, they are made of different materials
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Reproduction-Piston-Ring-Set-of-4-Standard-13011-374-000-Honda-CB550/172685809641?hash=item2834e057e9:g:ebcAAOSwPh5ZIHKB
https://www.ebay.de/itm/163318063827?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338722076&toolid=10001
Post by: murdock on April 10, 2021, 11:05:30 PM
Post by: Trigger on April 11, 2021, 08:31:44 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 11, 2021, 09:13:07 AM
If I can ask - where did you buy that tool?
I'll be working on my engine probably next winter so I want to prepare myself ;)
I used a tool like that in the late 1970's on an A series engine - the bores were brilliant afterwards - trouble was it would only tow start afterwards so had to take the engine out again to getr it rebored! Never touched a glaze breaker since!
Post by: royhall on April 11, 2021, 11:01:17 AM
Post by: Bryanj on April 11, 2021, 03:33:19 PM
Post by: murdock on April 11, 2021, 04:43:08 PM
well, now determine how much will go up?
0.25 or more? What improvements can I make above to improve performance without changing barrels? I'm talking about jobs that can be done at home, when I find someone to enlarge my barrels, what tolerance should be respected?
thank you very much for your help
Post by: murdock on April 13, 2021, 08:37:54 PM
Post by: philward on April 13, 2021, 11:15:01 PM
https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/08/17/74-78-honda-cb550k-0-5mm-oversize-pistons-set/
Post by: Piki on April 14, 2021, 08:13:36 AM
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 10:40:56 AM
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 10:54:37 AM
Post by: royhall on April 14, 2021, 11:25:18 AM
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 12:01:44 PM
Post by: Skoti on April 14, 2021, 12:27:02 PM
Good quality:-
https://www.scheuerlein-motorentechnik.de/motorrad/honda/500-599-ccm/cb550fk/honda-cb550f/k-mos2-kolben-kit-uebermass-0.25 (https://www.scheuerlein-motorentechnik.de/motorrad/honda/500-599-ccm/cb550fk/honda-cb550f/k-mos2-kolben-kit-uebermass-0.25)
Cheaper quality:-
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Honda-CB-550-Four-F-K-Kolben-Kolbenring-Bolzen-Kolbenkit-0-50-Made-in-Japan/293092707188?hash=item443dafcb74:g:fQEAAOSwIOFc3m~a (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Honda-CB-550-Four-F-K-Kolben-Kolbenring-Bolzen-Kolbenkit-0-50-Made-in-Japan/293092707188?hash=item443dafcb74:g:fQEAAOSwIOFc3m~a)
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 03:09:23 PM
A lot of forum members use this source in Japan (I've used 3 kits personally) - never paid import duty to UK but not sure how it would be in Spain
https://www.cruzinimage.net/2017/08/17/74-78-honda-cb550k-0-5mm-oversize-pistons-set/
Philward if it's Riken's rings like Royhall says
I would buy them, have you had problems with the pistons?
Post by: philward on April 14, 2021, 03:39:43 PM
Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
Post by: royhall on April 14, 2021, 04:04:17 PM
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 04:10:12 PM
Post by: philward on April 14, 2021, 05:38:49 PM
Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
Post by: royhall on April 14, 2021, 07:12:00 PM
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 07:27:21 PM
Post by: murdock on April 14, 2021, 08:42:23 PM
Post by: philward on April 14, 2021, 10:24:00 PM
Post by: murdock on April 21, 2021, 09:48:42 PM
But I stopped when trying to remove the rotor,the central screw is very hard and I think then you need an extractor, there is some trick to remove this ?
Post by: Bryanj on April 22, 2021, 12:54:45 AM
Post by: eight0 on April 22, 2021, 08:08:27 AM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291185866163
Post by: murdock on April 22, 2021, 06:21:52 PM
You saved me a lot of time
The screw was very hard
Post by: murdock on April 22, 2021, 06:58:08 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 22, 2021, 07:41:02 PM
Post by: murdock on April 23, 2021, 08:48:50 AM
Post by: Bryanj on April 23, 2021, 11:37:28 AM
Post by: murdock on April 23, 2021, 02:45:05 PM
I will buy them loose for a few cents.
Post by: murdock on April 23, 2021, 10:48:17 PM
Those are the numbers I was supposed to find right?
Post by: murdock on April 23, 2021, 10:54:28 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 24, 2021, 06:44:49 AM
Sorry to abuse your wisdom, but does anyone know if there is an oil pump seal kit for sale?
I can supply oil pump kits in Viton . PM me for a members discount >>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164714270515?hash=item2659bc4f33:g:UO0AAOSwYc5fvRQ4
Post by: murdock on April 24, 2021, 03:13:54 PM
I don't know if I should worry about the shift fork, I'd just give it a little sanding and that's it, but you're the experts.
The bearings look good too. I have plastigauge ..... I don't know what to do , I change the chains and rubbers ,Seals and seal again ?
Post by: murdock on April 24, 2021, 03:19:25 PM
Post by: Bryanj on April 24, 2021, 05:09:01 PM
Post by: murdock on April 24, 2021, 05:23:14 PM
I will try to find a fork, they are no longer available.
Post by: Bryanj on April 24, 2021, 08:31:10 PM
Post by: murdock on April 25, 2021, 12:06:02 AM
Post by: murdock on April 25, 2021, 01:49:12 PM
I have opened the engine, everything seems fine, but I have found some wear or rubbing on the central selector fork, I don't know what gear it engages, the gearing looks fine, tomorrow I will check it in a better light.
Those are the numbers I was supposed to find right?
Pictures 3 & 4 are the correct pictures for the markings.
No idea what pic 2 is meant to be.
Will it be the date of manufacture or assembly?
https://www.ebay.com/p/1711838624 seems cheap.
Post by: murdock on April 25, 2021, 01:56:04 PM
After 44 years,
The difference is very palpable,
now it looks like a solid piece
I'm still looking for the shift fork,
If anyone has one for sale
...........
Post by: murdock on April 25, 2021, 05:38:00 PM
Post by: murdock on April 26, 2021, 09:41:11 PM
Post by: murdock on April 27, 2021, 09:32:07 PM
I have checked all the connecting rods and they are also fine ,
They are already repositioned with assembly grease and at 45 Newton meters.
I think I will spend some time polishing and cleaning parts and bolts until the shift fork arrives.
When the weather improves ( in April it rains a lot ) I will paint the engine.
I have to take care of the other bikes
They tend to get jealous
Post by: murdock on May 05, 2021, 05:28:30 PM
What I do not like is that I still have no news of the cruzin image pistons.
The fork took 10 days from the USA
And the pistons are 20, I hope they arrive soon.
Has anyone had this problem with cruzin ?
Post by: philward on May 05, 2021, 09:01:44 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on May 05, 2021, 09:21:20 PM
Post by: murdock on May 05, 2021, 09:40:22 PM
Now I have another problem
When I disassembled the engine I removed the crankshaft seals and I can't find them, I have a picture of them.
But I also have this seal that comes in the kit
And I don't know what is its place ?
Post by: philward on May 05, 2021, 09:57:53 PM
Post by: murdock on May 05, 2021, 10:15:35 PM
Ok, so I don't need it, my bike doesn't have that, but the seal that you see in the photo next to the crankshaft is not the same, it doesn't have the metal inside, just the spring like any other seal?
Thanks
Post by: murdock on May 05, 2021, 10:18:52 PM
Post by: murdock on May 05, 2021, 10:23:37 PM
I can't imagine where this one is from either ?
Post by: philward on May 05, 2021, 10:32:57 PM
https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb500k2-general-export-e-15-transmission_big3IMG01171119_410b.gif
Post by: murdock on May 05, 2021, 10:45:29 PM
But I think the one in the kit will hold.
In the photo you can see a mark on the trunnion that was made by the washer.
Post by: murdock on May 06, 2021, 08:44:20 AM
I will replace the same cap
today I'm going to put the parts together
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/oil-seal-kit-oe_90000323000p/
ask the experts, inside the seals do I usually put a little grease for pneumatic seals,
on the outside? Should I put in some Hondabond?
Post by: murdock on May 06, 2021, 09:34:58 AM
Post by: murdock on May 06, 2021, 10:40:26 PM
I will soon put it back on the bike,
I have sent a message to cruzzin , see if I get a reply , it's been 22 days in Japan post is still in Tokio
I think I will have to contact Paypal
One question
Is there any trick to tighten the rotor again ?
Post by: murdock on May 10, 2021, 09:21:13 PM
https://www.fb-stuff.com/fb-stuff-store.html
https://www.otherlifecycles.com/product/custom-honda-cb-550-f-super-sport-alternator-cover/
Post by: murdock on May 12, 2021, 07:51:11 PM
the other is that I need this part, my motorcycle has never had it and I would like to get it
number 13
gracias
Post by: Menno on May 12, 2021, 09:52:53 PM
Please show us a picture of the threat.
Post by: murdock on November 06, 2021, 07:42:05 PM
I know that the factory setting is 38 slow, 98 main, 22 mm float, but what I am not clear about is the position of the clip, is it the second from bottom to top?
the exhaust is 4 to 1 not original, it is a cheap megaphone that sounds loud, but I don't think it needs any adjustment
Post by: Bryanj on November 06, 2021, 09:48:25 PM
Post by: murdock on November 06, 2021, 10:03:18 PM
I DON'T KNOW WHAT IT MEANS (but you change the induction or exhaust all bets are off.) Sorry we don't speak the same language
Post by: murdock on November 06, 2021, 10:36:04 PM
Post by: Bryanj on November 06, 2021, 11:11:38 PM
Post by: deltarider on November 07, 2021, 07:28:38 AM
Note that jet needles and airscrews differ from those applied in CB500/550K models. The F models had solid airscrews, the K models were open ended and cross drilled. The jet needle of the F models is tapered differently than the needle in the K models. For part numbers, you may consult the PDF below.
* https://www.dropbox.com/s/88zdzlj8olqi8pl/Honda%20CB500_CB550
Post by: murdock on November 07, 2021, 08:39:37 AM
Post by: murdock on November 07, 2021, 08:48:55 AM
Post by: murdock on November 07, 2021, 01:06:20 PM
Post by: deltarider on November 07, 2021, 09:13:58 PM
Post by: murdock on November 09, 2021, 06:10:56 PM
At 1/4 throttle the grgrgrgrgrgr begins and it does not lift up until I exceed half the throttle, but they do not stop completely, it has improved a lot to 1/4, but nothing else, the carburettors were synchronized on the bench, both in total closure as in total opening, the only difference with the originality is that the air box inlet does not have a rubber elbow and that the exhaust silencer is a short megaphone with fiber inside
I have not sprayed the carburettors for leaks yet, but I know that in carburetor number 2 one of the four tank bolts is not tightening.
Could it be a spark plug failure? At idle I have loosened the cables one by one and in cough the change is heard, it may be that the battery is completely dead, I don't know what to do anymore, I thought everything would return to normal
Post by: deltarider on November 09, 2021, 08:09:48 PM
Faulty condensers may cause arcing as shown in the vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3cuvGVwnjI At the breakerpoints a bit of sparking is normal, excessive sparking or arcing is not good and can indicate a bad condenser. In this vid the left condensor (1+4) is bad, right condensor (2+3) is good.
Video: courtesy Ulf Penner
When you're at it, check none of the forked connectors at the breakerpoints accidentely ground to the plate. This grounding can be intermittent! Especially the 2+3 connectors are at risk, as they have a crosshead nearby.
To check the quality of the sparks, I have this simple tool: a copper wire which has an alligator clip on one end and is stranded open on the other.
Two ca. 0,4mm thick pieces cut out of an old credit card to be used as isolators.
Here is how it works.
Isolate breakerpoints as shown in the pic.
Attach alligator clip to the small center bolt of the breakerpoints, either 1+4 or 2+3.
Unplug plugcaps 1+4 or 2+3. You could unscrew the sparkplugs, but test can also be performed with reserve plugs.
Connect plugcaps to the sparkplugs that are out and are firmly (!) grounding to the engine block.
Turn on the ignition. Relax, both breakerpoints are isolated, so the coils are not taxed.
Simply move the stranded copper wire loosely over any part of the engine or frame (unpainted).
The effect will be a rapid serie of sparks very similar to when engine is running.
Verify the sparks are white or blue and not red.
Compare to the other set.
The advantage of the method is, you hardly use power and it will save you cranking the engine.
But above all: due to the stranded copper wire, there is this very rapid firing, which results in much more realistic sparks than by just holding a sparkplug to the block and crank one turn. The difference is huge.
How sure are you about the plugcaps? The coils secundary is around 14-15kΩ, so in total a circuit (either 1+4 or 2+3) will read 24-30kΩ if you have resistor plugcaps. If you read more than say 31kΩ, unscrew plugcaps from the leads to be checked individually. Ideally resistor plugcaps will read around 5-7kΩ. When over 8kΩ, replace. BTW, do not run resistor caps and resistor plugs. When you have the choice, I'd prefer resistor caps. Realise that like sparkplugs, plugcaps have a limited lifespan, so when in doubt, replace.
Have you verified the advancer advances and retards smoothly?
I hope you're not offended, if I have posted what is all too familiar for you. Just ignore.
Post by: murdock on November 09, 2021, 08:48:01 PM
I usually check the ignition with the lights off, when a capacitor is defective, sparks are sometimes smaller than in the video
the plug caps are resistive 5 ohms and the ngk d7es plugs are no longer available, only the dr7es that are also resistive, that does not add up to 10 ohms, the sum of the 2 resistances is half of one, I will order a new set of spark plugs, I think I have a saved capacitor, I will review mine better, and I will try the method of isolated points, thank you very much
Post by: philward on November 09, 2021, 09:00:39 PM
Post by: murdock on November 09, 2021, 09:32:31 PM
Post by: philward on November 09, 2021, 09:35:50 PM
Post by: Bryanj on November 09, 2021, 09:36:21 PM
Post by: murdock on November 09, 2021, 09:44:30 PM
ok, thanks, I will buy new spark plugs and new capacitors, I could try to place the ones from my guzzi
Post by: murdock on November 10, 2021, 12:48:10 PM
Post by: murdock on November 10, 2021, 05:24:17 PM
over 10 mega ohms
Post by: Bryanj on November 10, 2021, 05:36:22 PM
Post by: murdock on November 10, 2021, 06:03:19 PM
Do you believe ? Now that you mention that before the reconstruction I had another type of cover, a cast aluminum one made in France, and now I have one that I bought from a kz that is narrower, I am a race without the cover to see if I notice any changes, but I do not think it's that
today I started the bike in complete darkness with the spots exposed,
at start-up there was a small fart, only one, a small piff typical of a leak,
I still don't spray the carburettors one or two little red blue sparks came out of the 1.4 platinum, but then revving for a few minutes never happened again, all this in the dark
total.
I don't have a strobe gun, but through the sight glass on the platter you can see that the feed was increasing in size with centrifugal force normally
Post by: murdock on November 14, 2021, 06:52:23 PM
Today I have sprayed the 4 carburetors below and above the nozzles, tanks and covers with engine starters and nothing, there is no air intake.
So I'll wait for a capacitor that I need to change and the spark plugs to see what happens, listening carefully to the engine with an accelerated idle, does not sound round
Post by: murdock on November 18, 2021, 09:32:51 PM
New spark plugs and capacitors ok, it purrs like a cat, but remains the same, I suspect that it is the battery that is dead, I do not know if being depleted it removes intensity from the primary of the coil and that is the problem
Post by: murdock on November 28, 2021, 02:27:58 PM
new capacitors,
perfectly statically adjusted points,
valves with perfect gap,
revised coils, revised cables,
tapas not oem (but I don't think that's why it should fail),
test lamp between spark plug and wires in all 4 ok.
rebuilt engine,
pistons and rings + 0.50 with 150 km
069a carburettors,
factory settings,
statically synchronized,
synchronized butterfly valves,
38 and 99 jets
needle in second position,
floats in 22 mm,
no leaks or air intakes
oem air filter,
4a1 tubes with megaphone silencer,
mixing screw in 1 1/2
starts instantly and sounds very smooth
with the throttle grip marked when it reaches 1/8 it starts to stutter. if I accelerate quickly when cutting a small portion of black smoke comes out, black ollin spark plugs,
Could someone give me some advice on how to follow to find the reason for the failure?
Thank you
Post by: Bryanj on November 28, 2021, 02:50:42 PM
Post by: murdock on November 28, 2021, 06:07:56 PM
Soon I will receive new orings for the yets, I will try to change them with the carburetors on the bike, maybe when I open them I will find something, I do not know
Post by: K2-K6 on November 28, 2021, 06:43:21 PM
As you've already checked most of the other items and still have something odd, these would have that effect.
From your description (black plugs and black smoke) it sounds like just too much fuel is being taken into the engine. All of the fuel is supposed to be carefully measured through the jet size, but if there's another way round that jet with failed seals it will just suck through that route too and add excess fuel to the main jet volume.
Hopefully the seals will give you a significant change to see.
Post by: murdock on November 28, 2021, 07:24:28 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 28, 2021, 08:14:42 PM
Post by: murdock on November 28, 2021, 08:39:05 PM
creo que no hace falta responder a tu pregunta .
lo siento si no se entiende , pero debo usar el traductor de google para intentar salvar la barrera del lenguaje
I don't think it is necessary to answer your question.
sorry if it is not understood, but I must use google translator to try to overcome the language barrier
Post by: deltarider on November 28, 2021, 09:00:25 PM
Post by: murdock on November 28, 2021, 09:08:37 PM
I have not tried it tomorrow I will, the filter is not new, it is not dirty, but it is very old
Post by: deltarider on November 28, 2021, 09:18:35 PM
Post by: murdock on November 28, 2021, 09:31:42 PM
supongo que tambien probare con las mariposas a ver si mejora la combustion
I will remove the cover and the air filter, the breather tube is not connected and the one below the box does not have a tube and is uncovered,
I suppose that I will also try with the butterflies to see if it improves the combustion
gracias
Post by: murdock on November 29, 2021, 12:25:00 PM
Delta, I must thank you, and an explanation, when I buy the motorcycle one of the first things that I changed apart from the original air intake was the seat for a flat one, now when installing the original air box there are only about 3 Free centimeters, enclosed between the frame and the seat, which did not allow a good air intake, I realized before, I removed the cover and the filter element, immediately the engine sounded glorious
Post by: murdock on November 29, 2021, 12:35:07 PM
estan muy grises , pero no fueron limpiadas antes , igualmente intentare otra prueba con el elemento filtrante sin la tapa
I went to try a lap, the engine response was quite good, but not enough, when I returned home I removed the spark plugs number 1 and 4, this after the 2km highway to get home, where I cannot run
They are very gray, but they were not cleaned before, I will also try another test with the filter element without the cover
Post by: murdock on November 29, 2021, 12:37:52 PM
Post by: deltarider on November 29, 2021, 01:29:22 PM
Thanks. I appreciate your replies in Spanish. When you try next time, use cleaned sparkplugs or new. You may add a spoonful of castor oil to the gastank to arrive at an easier to read result.
Post by: murdock on November 29, 2021, 03:48:19 PM
Castor oil ??? could you tell me a little more about that? I know it smells very good
Post by: deltarider on November 29, 2021, 04:13:43 PM
Post by: deltarider on November 30, 2021, 12:14:54 PM
Did you know that airplane engines in WW1 ran on caster oil in the engine. It's why Castrol is named as it is, after Caster oil, however the fumes gave the pilots the shits and the ground crew regularly had to hose out the cockpit as as result, no toilets in the sky fellas ;DThank you, Oddjob!!! Man, I was to be operated. I've just called the hospital to cancel and say the can give the cork to someone else. ;D I've always guessed castrol came from caster oil. The inventor of the oilfilter named his product Purolator from pure oil later. Hope Purolator is still around. They are the best.
Just saying, don't breathe the fumes too much ;D ;D