Honda-SOHC

That might explain my timing light giving odd results, I was surprised to find that the induction clip had an arrow for direction of current flow presumably.

That looks a very clean Honda 400 what needs rebuilding ?
Is that a US model with the chrome rear lamp bracket and black indicators?

if I understand you correct, yes, 2-3 timing is out

When checking 1-4 you connect to cable/plug 1 or 4
when checking 2-3 you connect to cable/plug 2 or 3

Do it first for idle - F mark
Then check with 2500, you should see it ideally in the middle of double mark. If you have first set F at idle for both 1-4 and 2-3, then it must be the same for 2500 RPM for both, as this is managed by advancer (springs). It cannot be be different, unless there is some issue in strobe pickup in higher RPMs.

I re-checked the static timing again on both 1-4 then 2-3 they are spot on by my eye / lamp co-ordination.

Then I realised that I had been connecting the plug lead clip to number 2 rather than number 3 cylinder (does that matter?)- the dynamic timing marks were spot on for both 1-4 & 2-3. I'm thinking it's either my strobe or possibly an issue with the coil connection at number 3 lead or its the idiot at the end of the timing light. (me)

As the Carbs have not been synchronised or the air screws altered since I did the bench build on the carbs I will do a compression test in the morning just for peace of mind. I saw no point in spending time on the carb balancing etc as it's going to be stripped down soonish anyway.

As I initially set the timing statically I thought I would do a check of it dynamically as it takes quite a bit of cranking from first start when cold to run. Once it has run it starts pretty easily - it could of course just be a fuelling issue or compression related but I'm thinking the timing might be a tad retarded.
I checked Cylinders 1 & 4 first I had to guess the engine RPM as the rev counter is not connected at the moment, on what sounded like around 1200 rpm the F 1.4 mark aligned nicely. When I tried the 2 & 3 moving the connector onto plug 2 the marks were pretty much out of view.

The Dynatek instructions state:- "The engine can also be timed dynamically using a strobe light in the normal manner.
Use the advance marks and an engine speed of about 2500 RPM (full advance)."

When I tried this again guessing the RMP as 2500 - roughly double the engine idle speed. The 1 & 4 marks lined up to the right of the F marks were there are two close together marks.

Am I right that the 2 & 3 timing must be out as it should be showing as per 1 & 4 except showing 2 & 3 marks with the strobe?
Reading my Haynes Manual is more confusing as it talks about "The two advance marks are on either side of the static mark"?

Suggestions are welcome please. Ted

Quote from: cooleronthecoast on September 30, 2020, 12:08:14 PM

Is this the one your granny was referring to John?


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Must be.

I am far too young to know about it.

And the tiger tails

Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk

So you do not remember the white bodied yellow headed Esso Men key rings either with the gold chain.

 As a teenager I worked Sundays on an Esso Forecourt long before they had self service.
4 Gallons of Esso Extra cost 19s 8 pence back then many customers would tell me to keep the change back then yep change out of a Pund note for four galls of 5 Star!!

The advantage with the Dynatec is, unlike the Boyer (unless it's been changed) it doesn't need a circuit box.  The pickups are connected directly to the coils.  The only mod that needs to be done is to run a positive from the coils (black/white) to the points plate along side the yellow and blue wires.   I used grey coloured 3 core.

I used the rear brake lamp switch power for mine until I rewire it - also dead handy connection wise as it's in the same cluster as the wires to the coil. I don't know the cost of the Boyer - my Dynatek with coils &  plug leads with two rotors included was £355 - my Brother in Law recommended it tbh I didn't shop around much so it might be available cheaper mine came from a UK Suzuki dealer via e-bay.

I have order two of each bolts so I'm covered.

Yes , remove cover by your left foot when sitting on bike and it's right there.

Don't know about other's,  but I do the bolts dry with a spot of blue lock tight to secure.  They're not concentric with shaft rotation so not likely to fidget out, but because they're hidden in use then better to make sure they stay there.

I am about to order my output shaft drive sprockets from DS - there is a small conundrum they list two seperate length bolts for attaching the fixing plate to the sprocket - they say I need one of each one is this right ?
One is 0.6 a 12 the other is 0.6 x 20.
Any advice please as to the right ones ?