Honda-SOHC

I have no idea how to do it - what about just buying a new one if the chrome has gone bad?

On most of my cars I've used a Lockheed Easybleed (LE) using air from a spare wheel to power it. I've always got a decent pedal by this method. I also like the look of the one Ed China uses that sucks fluid out of the bleed nipple.

Later design master cylinders often can't work with LE. I might source a suction type for future use.

Welcome to the Forum I'm pretty new here myself - I've found it very helpful indeed.
Nurse Julie is also a useful source for some parts as well as information to help with a rebuild plus her partner I think he goes by the name Trigger.

Some great rebuild post in the Project Zone.

Okay I'm new to this forum but did you check the sliders before you reassembled the carbs on the inlet manifold. It sound to me as though you have sticking sliders near the top of the travel could be muck in the carbs or check the links at the carb top where the springs & little T shaped rods are.

I did the drill bit initial setting on mine and they all fully opened from the throttle action. Is there an issue with the two cable adjustments preventing the throttle from fully opening ? Are you sure you put the T shaped rods in the right way up they seem to act like a pushrod for the throttle movement?

I've finished with the gravel bit - loads of stuff came out.

Question do I have to drill out the end of the pin / rivett to remove the cap - can you buy new pins or is there a better way forwards?

Best not bother with the vinegar then it will be straight to the Electrolysis phase when I empty out my gravel & Turp Substitute lubricant next week. I'll remove the Petcock and do some sort of bung on the outlet pipe.

The black colouration after using Evaporust was what I read on some reviews.

So pleased for you that its running. 

I plan to be where you are by the end of this month.
I know I bought mine with a declared cam chain rattle - I just don't want any other nasty sounds.
When the frame is being powder coated I will then sort out the cam rattle, take the head off, check piston tops etc.

Quote

Why can't you have rusty petrol tank shot or bead blasted?

You can - nothing stopping you.  If you mean why isn't it a good idea that's different - and I can tell you that having had the outside of a tank sandblasted, I'd be very wary of trying to do the insides the same way. 

Long story, but I'd decided to get a tank powdercoated (yeah, long story . . . don't ask) and since the frame was going the same way, I just added the tank to the set of bits to get blasted.  Saw it halfway through the process and it looked absolutely fine; paint free and no rust either inside or outside.  Powdercoating completed and it looked great.  Things started to go sideways when I put fuel in it . . .

 . . . the grit was sharp enough to put two near microscopic holes in the underside.  Poking around confirmed there was no rot; the grit had simply found a couple of very slightly weak spots around weld seams and blown though.  Fuel and powdercoat really don't mix, and so I ended up needing to get the tank done again.  And then the rebuilt fuel tap leaked . . .

Suffice it to say that unless you're going to use a very soft media type or do something like vapour blasting, it's really not worth risking the cost of a paintjob simply to save a couple of hours work.  At the same time, the insides of tanks can incorporate some very odd shapes that aren't easy to blindly work around.  The tank I had done is from the mid-60's and has such a high middle section where it straddles the frame that it needs a connector hose to get fuel from one side to the other (hence the number of weld seams).  Working around that sort of thing would be a nightmare - and as others have pointed out, getting the media and the ultrafine dust it generates out when you're done would be more trouble than it's worth. 

You really don't want any of that getting into the engine . . .

Thanks for the explanation and evidence of your experience - i'm definitely not going to go down the blasting route!
Over the next few days when I have finished swishing my gravel about I plan to put some white vinegar I already have in stock to use before I proceed to electrolysis. I plan to use a multi phased approach as necessary to get a good finish.

Reading online reviews on Evaporust they talk about it leaving metal surfaces a dark /blackish colour.  I am very aware that surface rust soon returns so the idea of some sort of residual protective coating appeals. Its a shame that a reverse electrolysis cant easily be used at home to coat the tank surface with zinc or nickle.