Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: ColinHH on November 24, 2021, 02:32:50 PM
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Finally picked up my '74 K4 after it had been in storage in UK for 6 months after buying it in January. Now got it back to France and am tinkering with it. It's in immaculate condition so not much to do but have done valve clearances, timing and points, as well as a good clean and polish. Carbs cleaning is my next job. The thing I am really struggling with, is getting onto the centre stand! I also have a BMW1200GSA which is 260Kg wet and I. can get that onto the stand without any problems. Same with my '78 BMW R100. Technique for both of those is to stand on the centre stand tang and the bike is almost lifted onto the stand with very little need to apply any other effort. The stand acts as a lever. Standing on the K4 side stand doesn't seem to do anything and I have to lift and pull with all of my might to lift it onto the stand. I can't keep doing this as I will do my back in at some stage. I am putting a piece of wood under the rear wheel to make it easier but wonder if there is a problem with the centre stand lever? Anybody else experienced this and have a solution?
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Not directly related as it was a Yamaha but that's why I parted with my XJ900F it was just too much of a pull to get it onto the centre stand after 14 years of ownership.
In my case it was a combination of old age plus I think newer bikes have set the fulcrum point better so they are easier to pull onto the centre stand.
In your case it might be the stand pivot points are semi-seized and in need of TLC.
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I have no problems when lifting my 750K2, in fact it's easier than lifting my lighter 500K2. The 500 has a 4.00 section rear tyre instead of 3.50 and so this may alter the starting angle of the stand (as wheel just touches ground while on the main stand). Not sure if this is due entirely to the larger tyre or a combination of the tyre and some stand distortion. (Has new pivot tube and no apparent wear on the stand female pivot).
Has your bike got oversize tyre (and touching ground as per mine)
Just a thought, otherwise can only be pivot seizure or stand distortion
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On my 750F1, I have to perform a sort of scissors move, push down on the stand and lift at the side, this works rather than lugging on the bars.
Cheers
Dennis
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Finally picked up my '74 K4 after it had been in storage in UK for 6 months after buying it in January. Now got it back to France and am tinkering with it. It's in immaculate condition so not much to do but have done valve clearances, timing and points, as well as a good clean and polish. Carbs cleaning is my next job. The thing I am really struggling with, is getting onto the centre stand! I also have a BMW1200GSA which is 260Kg wet and I. can get that onto the stand without any problems. Same with my '78 BMW R100. Technique for both of those is to stand on the centre stand tang and the bike is almost lifted onto the stand with very little need to apply any other effort. The stand acts as a lever. Standing on the K4 side stand doesn't seem to do anything and I have to lift and pull with all of my might to lift it onto the stand. I can't keep doing this as I will do my back in at some stage. I am putting a piece of wood under the rear wheel to make it easier but wonder if there is a problem with the centre stand lever? Anybody else experienced this and have a solution?
Worth measuring the length of the rear shocks or showing us a pic - I've had issues with (shorter) aftermarket rear shocks making the center stand much more difficult to operate. Also look at tyre sizes.
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Just.going post the same James - think they should be 335mm on the 750? Mine are tech' aftermarket on the 500 and may be the issue on mine (they are shorter than 750 - I know this as I was initially sent a 750 set by mistake).
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Thanks for the replies. The rear tyre is 120/90-18 which I think is standard? The rear wheel sits about 1 1/2 inches of the ground when on the stand, see pic and the rear shocks are also standard I believe. Also the actual stand looks to be in good condition with no obvious signs of it being bent in any way. I will have a look at the pivot shaft and see if that is the issue but if not I will just have to. keep practicing. On both of my other bikes there is a good grip at about mid level of seat but on the K4 there is only the seat pan, which doesn't seem strong enough to take the full weight of the bike so I have to grip the rear rack which doest enable me to get the leverage whilst my foot is still on the side stand. Have attached some pics.
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I put my right hand under the main frame between shock and indicator mount to lift it, with left hand on handlebar.
It feels slightly precarious to start as all your interaction is along one side of the bike and you don't want it falling away from you.
Going foot on stand while standing besides it holding both sides of handlebar to make sure it's sitting flat, don't release the foot pressure but transfer right hand to rear frame and heave with your personal rearward lean to get that grip giving assistance in the direction it's got to go.
As mentioned, it initially feels quite precarious but as it moves that goes away with the weight prevented from rocking side to side by the stand feet. Usually it feels that it moves fairly easily with this grip.
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Has the bike got a grab rail fitted by the left side of the seat?. I'm not into K4's but the earlier models have a handle fitted specifically for the purpose of moving the bike onto the centre stand.
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No, there is no grip/handle, just the lip of the seat pan. That's why it's so difficult.
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No, there is no grip/handle, just the lip of the seat pan. That's why it's so difficult.
This will give you an idea, this is fitted to a 750/4 K2 but every Honda SOHC/4 we have here or have owned has a handle in the same place.
[attachimg=1]
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Beat me to it Julie - just going to post same picture!
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Thanks again for replies. Looks like I am going to have to accept that I am not strong enough any more and use the piece of wood under the rear wheel. There is a handle which makes up part of the rear rack as pictured. But it's about 45 degrees rear of the stand so your not pulling upwards. The R100 is much easier for me.
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To be honest, I have never been able to get any of my old Hondas on the centre stand. I couldn't even manage it with my 400/4. I've not bothered trying recently with my 500, 550 and 750 as I know it would result in failure 😂😂😂
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That makes me feel a bit better! I just stand on my R1200GSA stand and it lifts the bike up by leverage, and that weighs 260kg. On another note. I never leave my BMW twins on the side stand as oil seeps into the left hand cylinder. Is there any such issue with the Hondas? And is it Ok to leave it on the side stand for long periods? (Even I can get it on the side stand :) :) :))
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My GL1000 is impossible for me to get on the centre stand without a block of wood under the rear wheel. When I was 19 I could do it fairly easily but no chance now!. I also cant get the bike off the stand by sitting on it and rocking, I have to stand at the side and push it off, its actually quite scary to do.
By comparison the CBX is dead easy to put on the stand so to me it is all about the design of the stand, partly the weight of the bike and age!
I never leave my BMW twins on the side stand as oil seeps into the left hand cylinder. Is there any such issue with the Hondas?
Definitely an issue with the GL1000, smokes quite a bit if left on the side stand but no problems with inline fours
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I too think it is a problem with the design of the early four piper bikes as the angle of the stand is far from ideal to miss the pipes. Never tried a 750, but had bikes up to 850 ok in the past, but the 500s are a lump. I'm only 10st and broke my right wrist last year and still can't do my 500s. But the 550F with a tighter angle is fine and the 550K that is a later four piper is also OK. And I think the pivot is from the same spot.
Did I read that the Japanese had to pick their bike off the floor if it fell over as part of their test. Good job they didn't have to hoist it on the stand as well.
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I used to take the centre stand off every bike I bought, as a younger version of me rode it like I stole it, and usually fell off due to a lack of ground clearance.
Now I'm close to retirement age, that's no longer a problem for some strange reason. ;)
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Centre-stand; what I’ll be doing this weekend
Its coincidence this thread has popped up as I’m just about to modify my centre-stand on my K2.
I’ve had a grumble on here before as I find my CB750 hard to get on the centre-stand – the bike weighs in at a quarter of a ton and my 67 year old muscles just can’t pull it up & back. I didn’t have much difficulty back in 1988; I was a lot younger then but I don’t remember the rear wheel being so high off the ground, as it is now, when its finally on the stand. Its over 5cm.
The DK Special I bought came from the USA and the previous owner had removed the centre-stand in the interests of weight saving to give that extra 0.25 mph. So, I bought one off ebay and fitted it thinking they must all be the same. Wrong.
Looking at parts lists there are several different numbers and the one have is meant for a 750 with longer shocks or a bigger rear tyre – F1, Hondamatic, who knows.
Anyway, its too flippin’ long and I’ve decided to shorten it.
Using the skills acquired from my 1969 ‘O’ level in Technical Drawing, I drew a scaled plan which revealed that if I chopped out 3cm on each leg it would end up with the rear wheel just clear of the ground by a couple of mm. So less of a ‘lift’ for me.
Using my other 1969 ‘O’ level in metalwork, I set to with the angle grinder chopping out the required amount and then finding some steel tubing to act as ‘slugs’ to strengthen the points where they were to be rewelded.
I found an old worn wishbone pivot tube from my long gone Triumph TR3A which I’d kept, chopped off the case hardened ends and got a friendly local garage who restore pre-war Austins to turn them down to the required o.s. diameter so they fit within the tubes of the centre-stand.
Holes have been drilled into the separated pieces of the stand so that the ‘slugs’ may be plug welded through them to increase the strength of the joints.
The storm due down here tomorrow might interrupt proceedings, like if the garage roof flies off, the trampoline ends up next door, but I aim to start the welding, paint it and fit it to the bike and see if it works i.e. the bike doesn’t fall over.
Will report back.
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I have the same problem with my K3.I find the best way is to try and get all my weight (75kg) as far towards the rear of the bike when pressing down the stand with my foot and pulling on the chrome grab rail.