Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: Charliecharlcomb on December 03, 2021, 06:25:28 PM
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It's getting close to the time when I want to mothball my CB500 for the winter. I've never really done this properly before (apart from the occasional charge to the battery) and wondered what everyone's thoughts were on draining carbs/tank etc. especially with so much ethanol being in the fuel.
Years of lack of safeguarding finally caught up with me this year and it took ages to get to the bottom of some elusive carb problems but now I've got it running beautifully I'\d like to keep it that way.
Any tips would be welcomed.
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I have tried both methods. I have had carbs drained dry for a whole winter (7 months max) and carbs wet. The latter method has never given a problem, be it that the last years I have drained the bowls, say every two months and then let them refill. This as a precaution; we all know the characteristics of gasoline have changed and not for the best. The two winters I had left the carbs dry, were no success: on opening the petcock the next spring, I had leakages which luckily later cured themselves as soon as the O-rings had swollen again. Also I have had sticking or not closing float valve needles. All in all I have concluded that the natural state of our carbs is wet, which has proved best for the rubbers. Just refresh the gas in the floatbowls every two months and you may also apply the trick to clear the jets: with the bowls empty and the slides down, crank the engine a few times and let the pistons create underpressure to clear the jets. So far it has saved me the trouble to unscrew and clean jets separately. A fuel system cleaner additive can work well, as long there's still an opening. I have never needed a stabilizer. I find what I read in the latters advertisements grossly exaggerated. If you really think you need one, choose the cheapest. It will be the brand that hasn't advertised. ;D
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This time last year (I think) there was a discussion on this that extended all the way to vehicle cocoons.
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Surely just starting it up every few weeks and letting it run until warm is enough?
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Surely just starting it up every few weeks and letting it run until warm is enough?
Every cold start causes more wear than 200-300 km of riding. Moreover these bikes are coldblooded, so it will take quite some time the engine will be warm enough. Personally I do not start my bike unless the ride is for at least 25 minutes or 40 km. Some cannot resist the temptation to start the engine in winter from time to time. It will result in condens in the oil and it will wet the inside of the exhausts > oxydation.
Better: simply crank the engine from time to time in wintertime, preferably with the floatbowls drained.
Recharge battery when voltage over the terminals drops to 12,4V. You could inflate the tires with a few PSI more. I have to agitate the rear shock (Koni's) say every two months to prevent the rubbers inside will dry out. Bike is in the garage, uncovered.
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Surely just starting it up every few weeks and letting it run until warm is enough?
Is there not the risk that just running it until warm will spread condensation throught the exhuast system plus the absorbed moisture / sulphur gases in the engine oil will cause internal corrosion as nothing gets up to full working temperature to burn off or be fully emulsified in the oil ?
Essentially what deltarider has said whilst I was typing this up.
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This time last year (I think) there was a discussion on this that extended all the way to vehicle cocoons.
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Anyone got a link to the coccon thread ? (not the organ harvesting film).
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My routine is based on various suggestions from members of this forum and a few other places
- Go for last ride, get back to garage - drain and replace oil
- Turn bike over a few times to circulate new oil (kill switch enabled)
- Drain carbs
- Drain tank. Even after running on reserve, I take tank off and tip upside down to empty completely
- Fill tank with Aspen 4 (some people use R Storage Plus from aaoil as well)
- Fill carbs then turn petcock off
- Centre stand, carpet under front tyre
I keep the carbs full by turning the petcock on for a few minutes every couple of weeks or so. I also check tyre pressure. It might all be overkill, but that's what I do. It worked great for me last year. Drained the Aspen, filled with E5 and it started first time! The bike had been stored for just over 4 months.
I should add I use my garage all year round and there is sensitive equipment stored in it - so I run a dehumidifier (it also makes the place much nicer to work in - no damp air which isn't good for me). That said, I do appreciate it's an additional expense. In that case, you need to look at alternative ways to stop your bike getting overly damp.
Dave
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Story now is unles you can guarantee your fuel is ethanol free you drain down as this ethanol fuel over winter will break down and absorb water to leave a layer of water at the base of your tank and carbs and due to colder weather general air humidity is higher that accelerates this process
E10 by its nature of having twice as much ethanol I have been told is even worse and will rot tanks old rubber and even brass ware in carbs if left for a long period of time
I normally run bike till it stops drain carbs than drain tank to almost empty then add a splash of 2t oil to the tank and slosh about to leave a layer of petrol and oil mix then leave cap off for fuel to evaporate to.leave a coating of out to protect tank
I think it what most of us 2t owner do most winters if bike is mothballed till spring
https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1525586/e10-fuel-changes-winter-warning-damage-risk?fbclid=IwAR0Fn7BTCMAsECHDbOxRsL69Nb-klVTzznSRRZyAPPUMlyaqUz72x_WpT1w
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211204/f1f97ab307cc0e2bc2e5a545115bf1d1.jpg)
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All great responses and plenty to think about. Thank you. And yes. I'd also like to see the cocoon post!