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Messages - RBoss
1
« on: June 25, 2022, 10:26:50 AM »
@Delta, thanks for your thoughts! I'm indeed very happy it was not a seized engine after all... I had to process the mistake of thinking it being a seized engine a bit though. Although the combination of no gas and a dead battery was quite a coincidence.  Anyway it (almost) works again! Happy to read that the alternator is probably in good shape. I think I might perform the driving test you describe. Also I am thinking of replacing the sub-wiring harness and the starter solenoid as they do have some corroded contacts. My OEM rectifier unfortunately lost a contact due to corrosion so that one had to go, and the replacement unit is a combination so I thought I might as well replace the regulator. Next step I think is to replace some wiring and the starter solenoid to rule out more bad wiring and contacts... Thanks!
2
« on: June 24, 2022, 08:49:13 PM »
If you got charge when green and white connected to battery then i dont care what make or how many combined units you have they are either duff or wired wrong and if wired wrong could have been made duff by that
So the video shows the stator is OK?
3
« on: June 24, 2022, 08:05:10 PM »
Hi all, I'm posting this thread as I can't figure out what is broken in my charging system. I have read multiple existing threads on how to diagnose which part in my charging system is broken but I am not able to figure it out (yet). I'll start with the storyline. 1. Rebuilt my bike (frame, engine, etc.), worked well and had a few first test rides. After the first 150km I ran out of fuel (didn't know) and was not able to turn the starter motor (so I thought about, and posted about a seized engine). After transporting the bike with a trailer and starting to take the bike apart I figured out it was a combination of no gas and a dead battery. 2. The gas problem was solved, but the battery not yet. I replaced the wiring harness (not the sub harness at the electronics side) as it was in bad shape. I also replaced the rectifier and regulator for a combination module. I hoped after that it was solved but unfortunately not. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] 3. As I couldnt see any issues on the stator or broken wires anywhere I tested with another new regulator/rectifier from the supplier. Same issue, but I ruled out a faulty regulator/rectifier 4. I tested the stator by seeing if the yellow wires have continuity to the frame (they don't) 5. I tested the stator green and white wires to the battery poles directly (I attached a video of this). This is where I am unable to get a the values provided by the book. (attached a picture). I do however get 13.7 ish volts at 3000-4000 rpm. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] link to my test video: https://youtube.com/shorts/LlkHQZoDTlc My question: would you say the stator is OK? And what would you look for next? Thanks! Ruben
4
« on: March 16, 2022, 08:57:21 PM »
What exactly was done on the rebuild?
Did it have a rebore for example?
First thing I'd do is pop the camcover off, I suspect the cam may have seized, it freed off when the engine cooled as the metal would contract when colder allowing it to start to spin again, however it's probably toasted the head and most likely the cam. You may get away with the rockers as the mileage was still low.
The oil light didn’t show so I guess oil pressure was OK.
Did the oil light come on before it seized up?
I replaced the primary and cam chain, and lapped the valves and replaced the valve seals. I didn’t do anything else to the head and cilinder as the pistons + rings and cilinder bores looked good. I’ll start pulling the top off soon to start diagnosing.
5
« on: March 16, 2022, 06:50:13 PM »
Hi all, So I have rebuilt my engine completely to replace the primary chain. Put the freshly painted engine in a freshly powdercoated frame, but after riding two trips of a total of 100km, my engine seized on the motorway. After getting to a stand still the electric start could not turn over the engine anymore and the kickstart was seized up as well. I feared for the worst. However after being towed to the first gas station the kickstarter was free again and I could start the engine with the electric starter. The engine didn't sound as nice and quiet as right after the rebuild though. I am quite lost what the problem could be... I'm thinking of the engine running too hot and seizing up the pistons, especially as it freed up again. I am also afraid that this is because I might have used too much liquid gasket when putting the two engine cases together. Some context info: I have ridden the bike two times after the rebuild and before the breakdown. 1st time was on the motorway at a normal pace, second time was on countryroads quite easily. The breakdown ride was a little faster at around 130km/h for 15 min on the motorway before it seized. I started on the motorway almost straight after starting up the bike. Anybody that has some advice or might know what this would be, as well as how to solve it, or diagnose the bike? All the help is welcome! attached some pictures of the engines liquid gasket, and my breakdown...  [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
6
« on: February 27, 2022, 07:13:48 PM »
So I replaced the wiring harness… and it definitely is a lot better, it doesn’t hold in above 5000rpm anymore so I guess the problem was the faulty wire.
Good comments on cleaning up the contact points as the corroded contacts where not only on the wiring harness side.
Anyway problem solved! Thanks for all the advice everyone!
7
« on: February 27, 2022, 09:04:55 AM »
I have not changed the fuel line but the tank was very empty, filling it up with the fuel I had left in a jerrycan didn’t help unfortunately. There might also be something else that causes issues, the other day I did a test ride again and the bike just broke down. No electrical power whatsoever; turned out to be a melted wire at the electrical board. I bought a replacement wire harness and will install it soon. Could this have been a problem?
8
« on: February 24, 2022, 08:39:51 PM »
Thanks for all the replies! I have the feeling it is the ignition timing. I rebuilt the engine without adjusting the timing again and I think that should be done, I did put the plate in the same position but maybe something is off. I have the feeling that it can’t be the carbs as I had them rebuilt before I rebuilt the engine and I tested them on the bike before that and all went well. I may be able to help; where about in A'dam are you?
Can you make it to my garage near the Weteringcircuit?
@deltarider, very nice offer! The bike is currently in Driebergen and I’ll try to fix the ignition there. Might that not work, I live close to the Oosterpark so the Weteringscircuit (schans?) is very close, I will keep you posted on the ignition timing! Ruben
9
« on: February 23, 2022, 05:46:18 PM »
If you need to keep running it like that initially, then change the plugs to #8 as it'll give you more safety margin. This won't fix anything but with the plug tips getting very hot (white colour on #7) then it risks making pre-ignition which will lead to melted pistons if you're not careful.
Do you know the needle position and what size the idle jets are ?
Yes needle position is in the middle. Idle screw I don’t know for sure but I figure that is stock either.
Did you remove the inlet manifolds? always replace the o-rings in them if you did as they grow hard and won't reseal after removal. It's the heat cycle which does for them. I'd imagine that the engine is sucking air in from somewhere causing the weak mixture.
I did replace all those o-rings… really can’t think of a place where it sucks extra air from… the air mixture screws should not be twisted in any further right?
10
« on: February 23, 2022, 05:13:45 PM »
Hi All,
Recently I have rebuilt my engine by putting in a new primary and cam chain. After reinstalling it into my frame I went for a test drive. All went pretty smooth, the engine is nice and quiet, but it doesn't want to "pull through" at higher rpm. It holds power in when I want go above around 6/7000rpm. Spark plugs are also very white so it appears to be running lean. How I don't know... Before the engine rebuild I rebuilt the carbs and had them cleaned.
My setup:
- jet size 100
- stock airfilter
- airscrews 1 full turn outward
- electronic ignition
- new rubber inlets
- new spark plugs NGK D7EA
- 4 into 1 exhaust
Anyone have an idea what could be it?
11
« on: February 23, 2022, 05:04:22 PM »
Hi Alex,
I have recently composed my own list of bolts for the outside covers, its attachted. There are links to the parts on CMSNL.com + amounts and sizes and lengths. Hereby I don't take responsibility in any mistakes or typo's in the list and some parts are in Dutch.
Hope its useful to you!
Ruben
12
« on: January 15, 2022, 05:48:08 PM »
Correct it was 1 tooth out and yes they are a swine to fit when chain is new. You do know that you do not use a screwdriver in the adjuster slot dont you
I didn't know that, I suppose one should adjust the tensioner just by loosening the bolt and retightening it again and let the spring to its work? I guess I won't be adjusting mine soon as it is a new one?
13
« on: January 15, 2022, 04:40:26 PM »
Got it! Is was one tooth off... 
14
« on: January 15, 2022, 03:04:29 PM »
Hi all,
I'm putting together the top end of my engine rebuild and I am not sure if the way I am putting back my cam shaft on the chain is correct.
I am trying to make the top dead centre of cilinder 1&4 correspond with the cam shaft but I am having trouble lining up the holes of the cam sprocket then. This is the best I am making of it now. What would you say?
Also the cam chain is very tight and it is difficult to fit it on the sprocket, i have to turn the tensioner "loose" in order to be able to fit the chain on the sprocket. Is that normal? (It is a new chain)
I have two situations:
1) either the cutout in the camshaft is not entirely horizontal to the top face of the head while the T-mark is correct
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2) the cutout is horizontal but the T-mark is not correct
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Am I doing something wrong?
15
« on: January 13, 2022, 02:12:14 PM »
If you have that much pitting on the valve faces, the valve seats will also be pitted If you keep grinding you run the risk of stepping the valve face. This thread explains what needs doing. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,20419.150.html
That looks like a top end quality rebuild!  I'm trying to avoid cutting corners on my rebuild, but I believe I am not at that point yet. I think the valve seats look pretty good. (apologies for the poor photo quality) [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] I'll start with the petrol test and probably go on lapping for a bit. Thanks for the advice!
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