This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - matthewmosse
Pages: 1 ... 124 125 [126] 127
1876
« on: March 20, 2008, 07:58:35 PM »
Cor, thats good value, Ok I save quite a bit of cash but if I cost in my time it probably wouldn't be worth it. Still, like other members of the group I enjoy the satisfaction of fixing stuff myself and the challenge of keeping the budget tight (Like me) 
1877
« on: March 20, 2008, 07:18:36 PM »
Practical classics magazine (cars) says that celulose paints will still be available for restorers of vehicles of a historic nature (over 30 years?) possibly DEFEA be introducing a licencing scheme. Anyway it will still be possible to get celulose but not really easy.
1878
« on: March 20, 2008, 07:08:11 PM »
1879
« on: March 20, 2008, 10:17:16 AM »
Just out of interest, how much would a rear brake relining job cost? My dads bike has cast wheels and is past tolerecnce on 2 sets now. (cast wheels are too big for my current lathe) It's also interesting to figure out how close to paying for itself my lathe is in savings. Ps when my workshop is properly sorted I'll be willing to take on a few jobs like welding or 1 off pieces on the lathe etc if members on this forum are stuck with finding someone who can do a job. Because I'm just an enthusiast who's lucky enough (and has saved up for) a reasonaby well equipped workshop I can help getting a project on the road, My prime motivation for making this offer is I know how frustrating it is when somethig goes wrong with your pride and joy and all you can get from the pro's is a derisive snort and / or a refusal to do the work because "It'll cost more than the bikes worth mate" Like I care, If I can keep a bike going for a few more years then thats worth it. After all re using stuff is really just another better way to re cycle  Oh yes, and I like old bikes. Ok rant over..........
1880
« on: March 19, 2008, 09:44:00 PM »
If you have a lathe then have a go. For small lathes like mine you'll need to strip the rim and spokes off the wheel. There are probably specialist suppliers for linings but I've found rover mini drums can be adapted to fit. Try ebay for a good wheel, comstars from a cb650 will fit no problems. Some people have fitted yamaha xs250/400 rear wheels which should be easy to source, scrappies by me has a few. If there's no luck I might consider a px of you're cracked hub for one I've already re lined. I'm not a trained engineer though, (only trained for welding, blacksmithing and care working) only fair I say this up front. I'm using one I re lined in my 500/4 sidecar outfit and it does to work ok. I also have a sound wheel with a 16" rim and tyre which just fits but is really too close to brake torqe arm. I've no idea if the spare hub I re lined is off a cb 550 or 500 as I've both bikes around and they are interchangeable but I think there are cosmetic differences. Also some backplates don't seem to fit other wheels so try to keep them as a set.
1881
« on: March 16, 2008, 05:00:10 PM »
Hi, when the old girl is up and running I'll take a piccy and use it as my photo on profile, looks pretty standard but well worn in it's original dark green paint which has rubbed through where your knees touch the tank to bare metal. Oh yeah, and there's a whacking great chair on it. Maybe I'll find time to weld It's 'pretty' exhaust up again, a 4 into 1 system from David Silvers with the it's silencer cut off and replaced with a Triumph rockett 3 (70's) raygun jobbie. looks the dogs .......s and can be heard 6 miles from my house when I'm on the way home!
1882
« on: March 15, 2008, 11:22:15 AM »
Don'd know numbers wise but following are accurate swaps at road speeds. 500/4 can use cb250 superdream speedo, (even fits into the same cases) since tyre sizes are the same therefore speedo drive probably works too, (spindle is I think the same.) cb250 nighthawk uses 18" front hoop but is also accurate using superdream speedo unit, also fits in nighthawk binicle. cb550 I'd geuss is same ratio as 500/4 as I've almost cirtainly mixed the speedo drives up a few times, A bad habbit of keeping a spare wheel and tyre ready assembled for easy fixes.
1883
« on: March 15, 2008, 11:10:39 AM »
I nearly got some fron a breakers but when they checked thet said the pipes were too far gone to be of use, I then got some silencers which were new off ebay and then a set of downpipes that were meant to be 4 into 2's but don't quite work with the silencers.......... Yet;- Need a bit of bending. I'll keep my eyes open for a set, thought occors that if a set of downpipes of the same diameter tube off a vaugely similar machine the they could be cut/ welded/ bent to fit and might cost not too much, my 'local' breaker only charged
1884
« on: March 14, 2008, 09:06:14 PM »
cb550 k had 4 into 4 system and almost identical preformance to the f models in fact marginally faster in one mira test, what baffling etc you use will obviously infuence this, a feiend of mine had a massey tractor silencer, (unbaffled) and homemade cruddy airbox and he reconed the bike (550 f1) was faster than my bike (550 k3) with its motad neta so possibly less baffling helps (k3 also used leaner jetting apparently), my 500/4 was also a bit quicker with its Very loud triumph 'silencer' caution though I've heard short streight thughs can apparently lead to burnt exhast valve seats not to mention upset the old bill. I'm afraid I can't help with sourcing pipes directly but try apincorporated as they may have something in.
1885
« on: March 13, 2008, 06:39:58 PM »
Good idea, I'll give it a shot as this could explain things, Also it occors that camshaft or rockers will be a much easyer prospect to replace, I've just got a set off ebay recently, just a bit of a pain as I only got this engine to avoid spending the time cleaning up enough and then rebuildig an engine as the workshop is currently a building site as well. Such is life, I'm lucky to have a workshop at all really. Oh well, geuss I'd better set to and do, sometime or other..........
Cheers for now.
Matt
1886
« on: March 12, 2008, 10:16:06 PM »
Same issue when I twin disked a 550, I now use a drenching seringe and clear pipe attatched to the bleed nipple to suck the fresh fluid through the system, only time it failed was when there was some crud in the system just behind the bleed nipple and I had to flush the system backwards. The drenching seringes are available from farm supplies shops for about
1887
« on: March 12, 2008, 11:15:56 AM »
I think your right about leaving chain crud on as the last owner of mine kept it nice and clean. Rear shocks are easy enough to source, I get them from a mail order comany in town called Custom Fastners, costs about 65 for a pair and they've held out well to the abuse of hauling an overloaded chair, even managing 200 miles with a complete dismantled 500/4 in the chair. The hagons that were nearly new when I got the bike were a bit soft for sidecar use and started sounding squidgy so I put them to one side though as they are good for solo's (I think they are possible to rebuild as are konis I've heard). Hagon also do wheel rebuilding if you prefer a pro job. Don't panic about welding, Its not that often it's really needed on a bike. I went a bit over enthusiastic on mine as I've got the kit at home to do it, I think there was a flaw in the original welding that let one of the hangers fill with water. Once I'd got the bike stripped I ran a gas torch over all the supect areas and cut out and replaced anything that was getting thin.
1888
« on: March 11, 2008, 09:00:14 PM »
I think Ive spoken to Clive via ebay, if so he put me onto this site, Thanks again. I'll risk repeating meself here as someone else may be interested.
As far as cb650 wheels go the rear fits streight in no problem, the disks on the front however touch the forks so fitting the front end off a superdream is a better bet if matching wheels are desired. The head bearings are interchangeable and I've dome this in the past. The cances are that a complete 650 font end would work as well, I've just not tried it........ Yet......
1889
« on: March 11, 2008, 08:37:57 PM »
Hi, I've a cb400/4 head, had good compression when fitted and jornal bearings but 2 rocker cover screws snapped off in head due to crash damage. Still quite useable as a spare or replacement and I could do with the space, I think the rocker cover is still there too. Could be of use.
1890
« on: March 11, 2008, 08:25:28 PM »
Take a careful look at the rear foorest hangers for rot, mine went thru a few years back, left me with a bit of welding and fabrication, as a precation I strip the rear end down every so often as this is where paint seems to suffer most and I had a lot of welding to do here. then I just douse everything in hammerite and bolt it together again. I also replaced the rear guard with a fiberglass one off ebay when mine got past it. I'll re make the dead one when time allows though. The speedo off a 250 superdream fits and is accurate by the way. Also knackered rear hubs can be re lined if you have acess to a lathe. Wheel rebuilds are ok to do if you hve something to copy by the way, I had a rough looking rear wheel let loose on me, spokes rusted badly. Thats when I decided to have a go at re lining and rebuilding a wheel, I've been riding on the results for a couple of years now and all seems ok.
Ps for real fun in snow fit a sidecar. The most stable thing on the roads when snow settles and just light enough to manhandle if you get stuck.
Pages: 1 ... 124 125 [126] 127
|
Show Posts