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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
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6286
« on: September 06, 2020, 09:30:33 AM »
You say you have spark. How sure are you, it's at the right time? You can check this with a strobe attached or crank the engine manually and listen closely for 'cracks' while watching the timing marks. Has the advancer been apart? Also check spark isn't 'leaked' from plugcaps and/or HT leads to the head.
Pretty sure most manuals will explain how to set static timing with a simple test lamp arrangement it's not as accurate as using a timing light but certainly good enough to get her running.
6287
« on: September 05, 2020, 08:51:58 PM »
As has been said put the air box & filter in place - it reduces the fire risk from a backfire.Even if you have the ignition timing 180 deg wrong the plugs will be wet after cranking that will tell you fuel is getting through imho.
I assume you know there is some compression?
Likewise did you test for spark at the plugs?
Fuel, spark, compression ignition timing at the right cylinder - it's got to run in some sort of fashion.
6288
« on: September 05, 2020, 03:17:04 PM »
Apologies Ted for hijacking your thread ☺️☺️☺️
I'm okay with meandering / hijacking threads as there is usually a good point or nugget of information in the process. There is a genuine Honda Petcock on e-bay with what looks like the right part number at £75 starting bid - it had no bids on previous listings. If it is NOS the rubber seals might be perished. Can you get the O rings for the tap as that and the strainer/filter would do for me ?
6289
« on: September 05, 2020, 01:13:21 PM »
Anyways I'm tickety boo today but am stuck until some bits & the Electrolyte arrives for my tank cleaning task. Still awaiting a sellers response on a cheap Petcock.
What electrolyte are you waiting for? All you need is some bicarbonate of soda.
The other thing to try if you’re not in a hurry is white vinegar; it is very cheap (<£20 for 20L on EBay) and avoids all the hassle of fashioning electrodes shaped to reach the deeper recesses of the tank. The one advantage of electrolysis is that it only attacks the rust, not the good metal underneath.
Just pour the vinegar in and leave for a few days – depending on the degree of rusting – pour it out, but not down the drain. If you’re not happy just pour the vinegar back in and wait some more. If there is a lot of deposit in teh vinegar you can strain it using a kitchen sieve.
I bought some white vinegar a few weeks ago with a view to trying it - then read loads of reviews saying it does not work! We having it on our Fish & Chips instead. lol
6290
« on: September 05, 2020, 01:07:32 PM »
You can also use Citric Acid (available everywhere and as cheap as chips). It is the main ingredient in Deox-C. We have used Citric Acid with excellent results.
In reality I guess the Citric Acid is just there to produce ions to allow the current to flow so many alternatives can work. Obviously not Table Salt as that would give off Chlorine gas as opposed to Hydrogen at the Electrode (Anode end ?).
6291
« on: September 04, 2020, 09:01:17 PM »
Work has ground to a halt due to an overnight stay in local Hospital - I had Merlot posing as Urine then must have passed a kidney stone the pain was the worst I have ever had in my life - including a fractured femur when I was 18.
Had a scan of my kidneys yesterday waiting for the camera jobby to check my bladder out. Oh the indignity I have to face within 14 days as a day patient!
Anyways I'm tickety boo today but am stuck until some bits & the Electrolyte arrives for my tank cleaning task. Still awaiting a sellers response on a cheap Petcock.
6292
« on: September 04, 2020, 08:53:49 PM »
DSS must have changed the coils they supply or you don't have the correct mounting posts. I bought new coils from DSS and they fitted straight on without any mods.
I've definitely got the right mounts. The DSS coils are a little bit longer and come with a fitting kit.
Presumably you have tried swapping the mounting posts from left side to right side at one end or even both ends to make up the length difference? You could then lop off the bit in the way if you get my drift. Alternatively you can rotate the posts and insert a simple 90 Deg bracket like on a kitchen unit type fitting.
6293
« on: September 04, 2020, 08:50:28 PM »
There's me thinking along the lines of OEM decided NOS must be the Japanese equivalent of "Blueprint" or "Quinton Hazel" then the penny dropped or should that be Yen clanged to the floor.
6294
« on: September 04, 2020, 08:46:58 PM »
I've ordered the Sodium Carbonate, I gave my old 4 amp trickle charger to my brother so I will borrow it back from him as I have sold all my old PC's. I will post pics of the froth once I get started! 
6295
« on: September 04, 2020, 04:26:37 PM »
I managed to fit my Dynatek Coils using both old mounts but with some cutting as can be seen in the photo is the DS replacement coil longer ?  CB 400F2 coil mounts by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
6296
« on: September 04, 2020, 12:20:19 AM »
I have cleaned the tank on my RD350 with amazing results.
Wash the tank out with water then get a small tub of Bicarbonate of soda from the supermarket. Mix it with water then fill the tank to the brim, I use half the tub with full tank of water.
Connect a DC power supply, battery charger or whatever. Negative to the tank, and the Positive to a steel bar (I used an old Allen key) and put it in the filler neck but don't let it touch the tank.
Turn power on and watch it fizz, keep topping the water up and every now and then clean the steel bar. It will take a good few hours. Also swirl the tank around to removed any trapped pockets of air.
Best to do it outside as the bubbles produced are Hydrogen 
I don't have a before pic but it was so bad I was on the lookout for a new tank.
This is a fairly slow process, it probably took 12 hours or so.
That sounds interesting I have seen stuff on the internet suggesting the use of Sodium Carbonate instead of Sodium Bicarbonate. Not sure if my C-Tek would work as the charger though I think I still have my original charger in my loft unless I chucked it. I have nothing to loose I guess so might give it a try.
6297
« on: September 03, 2020, 06:03:11 PM »
I guess it might be either an access issue or removing the waste but why not the above - I'm tiring of swishing my tank with gravel in it every time I go in my garage.
6298
« on: September 03, 2020, 05:59:06 PM »
I had a second hand Suzuki 750 GS in 1980/81 ish only owned it for a few months. Two things scared me it's willingness to lift the front wheel off the ground if you dared to use first gear. Plus all the chrome work was pimpled or rusty when it was only 2 years or so old.
Replaced the chain within weeks as it was so out of shape with a Reynolds one but left the sprockets as they were due to cost. The chain was too wide for the sprockets but I was assured by the place that sold it me that that did not matter a jot! Had shaft drive after that my Honda CB400 is the first chain driven bike I have owned since I sold the Suzuki.
6299
« on: September 03, 2020, 01:07:39 PM »
A lot more maintenance on Stainless and alloy rims than chrome. Chain lube loves to eat in to stainless and alloy
I didn't realise that - whilst talking to my BiL (Dave) I toyed verbally with going bling with Gold Anodised Rims & Hubs. Then Hydro transfer petrol tank & panels !! Maybe decent British Chrome would make more sense.
6300
« on: September 03, 2020, 10:22:25 AM »
Yes my stainless spokes and polished alloy rims were supplied by central wheel
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TBH i'm torn between Stainless & Alloy rims - chrome is fantastic but don't want the maintenance involved. As Central Wheels are only in Coleshill I think I will pop over nearer the time to get the visual input of seeing them in the flesh. Will definitely need to do a good job on the hubs whichever I go for.
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