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Unsure if I've understood correctly the current adjustment just made Ted.

The left bearing, with retaining ring has only one true position which is "fully" located in it's accompanying architecture.

This is the wheel datum (same on front too) for the rim alignment in the chassis, with all other spacing etc slaved off this installation.  Bearing race fully home and retaining ring fully tightened is the only method, anything else with compromise doesn't take precedent over this procedure.  The other parts and alignment should be looked through for fault if it exists then.

If the primary, LEFT bearing isn't secure in it's location, then the wheel can move across the axle during use  :o to the detriment of competent running and risk of jamming the wheel in cases of significant movement.
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Could be Dom, ill remove the brake hub and give it another thwack with the drift.

Update: The right hand bearing was not flush with the hub face - it did not want to knock in any further so I undid the lock ring on the left side and it's now flush with the face.

Now the lock ring is not fully against the drive hub so I guess I might need to tap the left side bearing a tad more from the left side.
Not sure if there should be a gap between the lock ring and the drive hub. Mine is probably about the thickness of a Junior hack saw blade between the lock ring and drive hub face .
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Anorak's Corner / Re: Metal Covered Plug Caps
« Last post by AshimotoK0 on Today at 08:47:49 AM »
Pretty crap that Honda didn't address the issue with the suppliers Nippon Denso. The metal cover EMC shielding (fitted as way back 1966 to UK CB450K0 Bombers)  was decades ahead of it's time and such a shame that the design wasn't re-engineered to cure the arcing. As I said, I can't see any reason why it can't be re-engineered to work perfectly in the wet. I guess modern silicone mouldings were not around then within the automotive industry.

Those caps were also fitted to Z1's ... wonder if it was the same on that model in the wet. Genuine Z1 metal caps are ££££ I gather. I got all of my Honda ones  cheap because DS had them in his USA warehouse (relatively useless to U.S. customers) but not listed on his UK site.

Watch this space to see if I can solve it.
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CB500/550 / Re: top end gasket set recomendations
« Last post by neat street on Today at 08:30:06 AM »
It depends which gasket set you use as to the size O rings you will need. All the kits have different depth head gaskets.

Thank you nurse Julie
any adea on the difference I should be looking for from gasket thicknes to `O ring`? or how would you work out what size would be best to use?
thank you again
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CB500/550 / Re: top end gasket set recomendations
« Last post by neat street on Today at 08:26:53 AM »
I have a local source for most O rings

A company called Hayley Group

On a local industrial estate, the Hereford branch are really helpful,

Imperial, metric,fuel resistant etc,

And the bonus, normally a fraction of the cost of NOS,




Take a sample, and the item, like tappet cap ,they will find the size needed



Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

Thank you John
Great tip and advise :-)
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I can only think that it's tying up on the bearing Ted, maybe you need to drift it in ever so slightly more?
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Out & About / Re: exploring Scotland
« Last post by taysidedragon on Today at 01:45:41 AM »
One of my favourite rides is from Tyndrum heading east to Killin and then turning off at LixToll towards Aberfeldy, lunch in historic Kenmore by the castle gates and then into Aberfeldy turning right for Crieff over the high road and then back to Tyndrum and Oban..
It's a super ride riding on the hillside road alongside the length of Loch Tay....bet you've done that and more Gareth 😊👍

Yes, that's a lovely route, and the roads for me to get there. Killin and the Falls of Dochart are a good place to stop. 👍 On the nadgery little road on the other side of Loch Tay is the Cave where Monty Python filmed the killer rabbit scene in Holy Grail!
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Out & About / Re: exploring Scotland
« Last post by Orcade-Ian on May 05, 2024, 09:47:40 PM »
Hello Hubert,
Yes, I would appreciate the handbook, I don't have one so far.

Will ring for a yarn,
Ian
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Out & About / Re: exploring Scotland
« Last post by Honda enthusiast on May 05, 2024, 09:11:48 PM »
You're absolutely right 👍 Ian all this is just on the doorstep.
I'm planning to do this tomorrow...
Btw have you a genuine small owners handbook for your 550F1?
A kind guy on the internet on the hoc FB page was giving one away and I put my hand up. I think it's arrived and I'll give it a few days as we still quarantine post (COVID measures) and open it. If you want it it's yours , no cost. Not sure if it's the F1 or F2.. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
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I had a second wind this evening so with the rear wheel in position, no brake shoes binding, attached the brake anchor bar to the hub.

With the axle nut loose the wheel rotates freely, as I tighten up the axle nut the wheel is stiffer to turn so something must be amiss.
It will rotate by hand but with much more effort.
The axle shaft fits easily through the hubs etc no force needed.

The fixed bearing was fitted without issue with the small spacer and the long spacer in position
Right hand bearing knocked in easily.
Left & right spacers in the correct position.
I haven't as yet fully torqued the axle nut wtf is going on?

Is it possible that the right hand bearing is not full against the central long spacer so it might improve the situation at full tightness?

I can't seem to find a picture in the parts book for the fitting of the rear brake hub anchor parts or what way round the shouldered bolt should fit - is it with the split pin on the inside or facing out?
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