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Messages - Oddjob
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3481
« on: July 02, 2022, 09:44:38 PM »
You sure you've not forgotten to put in the top race after the bearings go in? If it's moving up and down something is clearly missing. Most times it's people complaining about not enough room not too much.
3482
« on: July 02, 2022, 09:31:00 PM »
Remove the yokes, take some pics and post them on here so we can see if we can spot something wrong.
3483
« on: July 02, 2022, 09:27:23 PM »
Might be an idea to specify what model you prefer. Like K3/4 or a G5, RSA or even a CJ. Lots of variants out there.
3484
« on: July 01, 2022, 08:47:35 PM »
Mine was blue as well, YJA 8L. Most likely scrapped now.
3485
« on: July 01, 2022, 02:16:09 AM »
Actually I may have it the wrong way round. IIRC the drill bit goes into the engine side as that the gap the carbs need to idle properly. The idea being that they are all the same gap when you fit them and you then adjust the idle speed correctly using the large screw on the linkage bar.
In the bottom pic it's the left hand carb which is orientated correctly for the drill bit.
3486
« on: July 01, 2022, 01:02:50 AM »
It's meant to be a closed throat on the other side as this is how the carbs are at idle.
3487
« on: June 30, 2022, 02:55:33 PM »
God that's deep Rosco
3488
« on: June 30, 2022, 02:14:45 AM »
Whereabouts in Lancs Andy?
3489
« on: June 28, 2022, 10:09:54 PM »
Bryan is spot on. This mechanism was revised by Honda part way through the K0 production run IIRC. They removed the ball bearing and changed the mechanism inside the clutch area for a more positive neutral selection. The upper bolt ends in a thin pin which is too thin for the drum so they packed this out with a small collar which prevents the drum from moving side to side and causing engagement issues.
3490
« on: June 28, 2022, 10:05:56 PM »
He has boxes and boxes of old speedos etc in bits, must have one somewhere in there.
3491
« on: June 28, 2022, 10:04:58 PM »
I seem to recall I measured the spacer I had fitted and it was indeed 3mm thick.
I'll see if I can find my old tapers and check the markings on them, I fitted them in the late 70s or early 80s when they knew what they were doing. They fitted perfectly and I was thinking of refitting them again as they are still in perfect nick.
My experience of captive ball races hasn't been good, my CB1300 has them fitted as standard and last weekend I removed them and fitted tapers in their place. One side of all the bearings was worn and the other side has surface rust, I think they don't rotate the same as normal loose bearings. All the races had pits where the bearings sat.
3492
« on: June 28, 2022, 02:29:24 PM »
Try Peter Horton Rosco. He's the guru on stuff like that.
3493
« on: June 28, 2022, 02:28:06 PM »
Don't buy crap makes like All Balls and I find them far superior. I tend to fit NTN or Koyo Tapers.
There was a good thread on the USA forum about them, someone measured the OE bearings and then Tapers and IIRC the tapers need a 3mm spacer underneath the bottom race to get them correct. I've never had a ounce of problem with mine.
3494
« on: June 28, 2022, 12:56:17 AM »
Get tapers, they are better than ball bearings for load purposes. I find them a little harder to fit due to how thin the races are in comparison but I use Honda special tools so it's pretty easy to fit them for me but without special tools I'd say they'd be harder. So long as you buy the correct tapers they fit just fine and last longer as well. If your attempting to fit the bottom race onto the steering stem try buying a piece of steel tubing, make sure it's 30mm internal diameter though and longer than the steering stem. You can then just slide the race onto the stem and use the tube to hammer it down without risking damage. 30mm ID x 34mm OD by 300mm length. Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391883163453?var=660864052444&hash=item5b3e0e873d:g:zOMAAOSwsupb5841
3495
« on: June 27, 2022, 11:37:50 PM »
Bryan is correct, anti clockwise advances it.
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