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Messages - gbjeppm
1
« on: March 06, 2021, 08:07:17 PM »
2
« on: March 06, 2021, 05:35:39 PM »
Hi all I bought a Honda TL125S trial bike recently that needs a lot of love. The front wheel is not original, but i believe is period correct. I need to identify what it came off, as I would like to order a spoke kit for it. I have looked everywhere and I cant identify it, especially the non hub plate which uses longer spokes. Can anybody identify it from these pictures? The rims is DID 1.40 x 21, with a half style hub, and an 111mm Brake Shoes opening.   Does this marking help?   Thanks in advance
3
« on: February 07, 2021, 10:18:20 PM »
I bet the exhaust will sound good 
Thanks Dave, first time i have cut the rear off a frame and welded in a hoop, which was slightly disconcerting. I decided to mod this bike as putting it back to original was just too expensive with the cost of yamaha stock parts. It needed a lot. At idle its quite quiet, but throaty when being opened up, so far seems good. Not ridden it much yet though (thanks covid)!!!
4
« on: February 07, 2021, 09:18:23 PM »
Quick update, coming together quite nicely. Few final things to do, new bars, new chain and mirrors on order. Not for the purists, but i am quite liking it. 
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« on: December 30, 2020, 08:51:43 PM »
Nice one, dont expect it to be fast though
i have heard that it can do 70 downhill with a following wind.... not sure i want to do more than 40 on it Anyway it will be a while, as i am going to take it down to the frame and paint it now that i know it runs, and give it a slight modernisation, headlight, indicators, exhaust, seat etc. All need to be changed anyway, and stock parts are silly money.
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« on: December 30, 2020, 08:47:44 PM »
Result. Bet that was a good feeling!!
Yes, i was really starting to doubt myself.... And of course it was my own fault
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« on: December 30, 2020, 03:39:03 PM »
Well finally i got her running properly.
It turns out that the cam was two teeth out. I decided to pull the cam cover again as i was still feeling that timing/ignition was not correct.
When i took the cam cover off the first time to clean up the valves,I marked the chain and sprocket and put it back on in the same place and did not check it. On closer inspection it was wrong when i got the bike, whoever put it back together before me, has lined up everything at 12 o clock, perpendicular to the ground, not perpendicular to the head, which was two teeth out.
Put it back together and fired up no worries for the first time in 10+ years.
That also explains the lowish compression, now it is 125.
Thanks all for your thoughts and comments.
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« on: December 24, 2020, 12:35:15 PM »
Don't leave the direct live permanently connected it will stuff the coils up.
Thanks Kev for the reminder, all is good.
9
« on: December 23, 2020, 09:35:18 PM »
Compression sounds OK for a cold motor, should test them when fully warmed up, maybe condensers, do a direct live to the coils to eliminate the rest of the electrics.
Thanks Kev, new condenser, and direct live to the coils is in place. I have though bitten the bullet and ordered new points, its the only part of the ignition system that i have not changed, and I want to discount them, They are very worn.
10
« on: December 23, 2020, 05:33:34 PM »
Might sound daft but with that check that spark is on correct cylinder
Yes i am sure i have done something stupid, i just need to find it
11
« on: December 23, 2020, 04:32:06 PM »
Can you drain the carb float bowls and leave them empty, then crank it with throttle open so that it can draw no fuel at all, then give it a mist of starter fluid to judge if you get any response.
Yes i can, will do that tomorrow probably. I did just manage to get a couple of backfires in the carb and a loud bang through the exhaust when i opened the thottle whilst cranking. That is a major step forward at least. So back to looking at timing and fuel delivery i guess, but progress of sorts.
12
« on: December 23, 2020, 02:55:32 PM »
If the points are, as I think, on the camshaft? Then swap the coil trigger wires over so that the "wrong" coil is connected and try that.
I am sure that it is ok, and its firing correctly. But i did swap the trigger wires over and it made no difference. I also know that i am getting a signal from the points up the trigger wire.
13
« on: December 23, 2020, 10:03:46 AM »
Be worth checking carb slides are all way down and that butterflies can close, i am working with a very old memory here but i think the slides are handed so can be wrong if mixed and a bit like bench sync on the 500 you can have the butterflys too open to get a start.
Compression is low but that could be the gauge type and its the same after as before, i do know those carbs are a swine to clean, bit like the 250 N superdream----could take 4 or 5 goes to get clean and sometimes even that didnt work
Thanks Bryan, i have heard the same on the carbs, but i think they are good enough at this point to at least get a pop. For the moment though i feel that i want to take the carbs out of the equation. I don't get a pop/backfire or anything else with either fuel or starter fluid down the intake without the carbs on. If i could get it to pop i would then be looking at the carbs. Does that make sense?
14
« on: December 23, 2020, 09:59:51 AM »
You could try running a separate live to the positive side of the coils to eliminate the possibility of excessive resistance in the wiring. As standard the Live goes from battery to ignition switch, through the kill switch then to the coils. That involves a lot of places where poor or dirty connections are possible, which can seriously affect the coils performance
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
I will try that today, and report back.
15
« on: December 23, 2020, 09:26:57 AM »
If you fitted new plugs make sure they are not a resistance type (marked with a 'R' after the plug code such as B79 R) because if you have a resistor plug cap as well as a resistor plug the spark will be weak. It has to be one or the other, not both.
Are you definitely getting fuel through the carbs?
New Plugs are NGK BP7ES, which are correct according to the Haynes manual. (they are the same as the old ones) The original caps have no continuity according to my multimeter, so i have tried two other types of NGK caps that do have full continuity. The secondary coil readings are in spec with these caps. As for the fuel in the carbs, they are wet and smell of fuel, so something is getting through. They may not be perfect, but I would expect at least a pop. And I dont even get that with starter fluid directly. Thanks for all the responses so far.
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