Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: SteveW on March 10, 2022, 12:26:09 PM
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Got my new tyres, tubes and rim tape. Got tyre levers, rim protectors and the proper tyre soap.
Any tips before I attempt removal and fitting the new ones.
Thanks.
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The only tip I can give is take them somewhere that has a tyre machine for bikes. I have given up wrestling with them as my local tyre place charges just £10 per tyre. Worth asking around near you as it's a monster fight getting them on and even worse getting the old hard ones off.
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Don't take them and get them done ;)
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:) was out there Monday, missed jnct 4 to collect something and turned back at 5 to get there. Would have popped round to help.
I've always done them by hand, tubed I presume, and although they can be awkward, with decent techniques are ok.
To get them off, make sure releaesd all way round bead, then lay flat on wood blocks so centre doesn't touch ground, then use your knees to hold the bead down into rim centre dip so that you can lever opposite bead off. Use tire soap to make sure it doesn't "traction" on rim and it should move easily.
Remember to always get the opposite side into the rim dip is the mantra, you'll just bend levers etc if you don't.
Going back on, soap tire, stand it vertical on ground, push rim into bottom first then leaving it there, push the rim away from you and pull the tire hard towards you, they'll usually just pop in.
Then push the open bead across to the other one with a lever at the valve hole, such that both beads are to one side of the hole, now put the tube in and catch the first few threads of valve with securing ring to leave it loose but won't come back out.
Now by hand pull the tire bead up while feeding the tube into carcass and go all the way round just gently getting it in place.
Lightly inflate just enough to take the tube up from flat.
Now it's back to laying the assembly flat on the blocks again, plenty of soap, and slowly (starting from six o'clock) lever the tire onto rim, holding it by kneeling on it at 8 & 4 o'clock positions, work round away from you toward 12 o'clock.
This bit may need someone else to hold a lever for you. Just work with small nibbles as you work round the tire and it'll chase itself on at the end.
If you need too much leverage, then look at how far the six o'clock part it sitting down into the centre well.
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:) was out there Monday, missed jnct 4 to collect something and turned back at 5 to get there. Would have popped round to help.
I've always done them by hand, tubed I presume, and although they can be awkward, with decent techniques are ok.
To get them off, make sure releaesd all way round bead, then lay flat on wood blocks so centre doesn't touch ground, then use your knees to hold the bead down into rim centre dip so that you can lever opposite bead off. Use tire soap to make sure it doesn't "traction" on rim and it should move easily.
Remember to always get the opposite side into the rim dip is the mantra, you'll just bend levers etc if you don't.
Going back on, soap tire, stand it vertical on ground, push rim into bottom first then leaving it there, push the rim away from you and pull the tire hard towards you, they'll usually just pop in.
Then push the open bead across to the other one with a lever at the valve hole, such that both beads are to one side of the hole, now put the tube in and catch the first few threads of valve with securing ring to leave it loose but won't come back out.
Now by hand pull the tire bead up while feeding the tube into carcass and go all the way round just gently getting it in place.
Lightly inflate just enough to take the tube up from flat.
Now it's back to laying the assembly flat on the blocks again, plenty of soap, and slowly (starting from six o'clock) lever the tire onto rim, holding it by kneeling on it at 8 & 4 o'clock positions, work round away from you toward 12 o'clock.
This bit may need someone else to hold a lever for you. Just work with small nibbles as you work round the tire and it'll chase itself on at the end.
If you need too much leverage, then look at how far the six o'clock part it sitting down into the centre well.
HHmm.Like I said, tyre machine, £10 per wheel, no damage, no mess. no stuggle, and no damage to arthitic joints. Why would you put yourself through that, there are better challenges in life.
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:) was out there Monday, missed jnct 4 to collect something and turned back at 5 to get there. Would have popped round to help.
I've always done them by hand, tubed I presume, and although they can be awkward, with decent techniques are ok.
To get them off, make sure releaesd all way round bead, then lay flat on wood blocks so centre doesn't touch ground, then use your knees to hold the bead down into rim centre dip so that you can lever opposite bead off. Use tire soap to make sure it doesn't "traction" on rim and it should move easily.
Remember to always get the opposite side into the rim dip is the mantra, you'll just bend levers etc if you don't.
Going back on, soap tire, stand it vertical on ground, push rim into bottom first then leaving it there, push the rim away from you and pull the tire hard towards you, they'll usually just pop in.
Then push the open bead across to the other one with a lever at the valve hole, such that both beads are to one side of the hole, now put the tube in and catch the first few threads of valve with securing ring to leave it loose but won't come back out.
Now by hand pull the tire bead up while feeding the tube into carcass and go all the way round just gently getting it in place.
Lightly inflate just enough to take the tube up from flat.
Now it's back to laying the assembly flat on the blocks again, plenty of soap, and slowly (starting from six o'clock) lever the tire onto rim, holding it by kneeling on it at 8 & 4 o'clock positions, work round away from you toward 12 o'clock.
This bit may need someone else to hold a lever for you. Just work with small nibbles as you work round the tire and it'll chase itself on at the end.
If you need too much leverage, then look at how far the six o'clock part it sitting down into the centre well.
HHmm.Like I said, tyre machine, £10 per wheel, no damage, no mess. no stuggle, and no damage to arthitic joints. Why would you put yourself through that, there are better challenges in life.
Then spend another two hours trying to balance them. Time better spent in the pub :D
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You're right Roy, the Mrs. Has signed me up for serial tire wranglers anonymous ;D I can't resist the buggers.
On a more serious note, I was taught by someone I raced in moto-X with who'd started with a Saturday job at a bike tire specialist in London. The owner of which had passed his skills in training him. Sounds complex but when you see it done with embedded skills available it's quite simple really. The shop owner always made the customer take the wheels out (on the shop front forecourt) as he never liked that bit, also didn't want the liability of working on them.
Balance, there's usually a marking on tire of lightest part the manufacturer puts there for you to place by the valve, most don't need much from there.
For the OP, keep them in a warm house before fitting as it'll definitely make it easier.
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It's a total no brainer..... Pay the professionals to do them.
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I strained my arm trying AND split the new inner tube. It’s one job I’ll never do again. The guy I got to do them heated them too. Tyres back in the ‘70s were easier to get on due to the bead I think.
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Just had the same game myself, never had a problem getting them off and normally I used to put them back on with my hands and feet without tyre levers but this time I had to give up and take the front wheel to a bike shop, it cost peanuts and was well worth it. Just another lesson that I am not as young as I used to be.
Cheers
Dennis
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I fitted new tyres to some alloy rims on my car back in the 1960's when the tyre machines were all manual not air assisted I was 18 - first & last time ever.
Too much like hard work IMHO.
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I must admit I have enough trouble doing my road bike tyres and last time I tried changing a tube pinched the tube. I can’t imagine what a motorbike tyre would be like.
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Thanks for all the advice, I’ll give it a go and if it goes pear shaped I’ll take the wheels to my local bike mechanic.
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Buy a tyre changing machine, only £900. You'll also need a compressor, another £450, go on, you know you want too ;D ;D
Wish I had one like we used at Queenies, made changing a tyre a doddle. Didn't balance the wheel after though :( :(
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I now do my own tyres after buying a cheap manual bead breaker, decent tyre levers, bead seal (for tubeless) and tyre soap. Last summer I changed the tyres on my Vmax and the satisfaction from doing it yourself is very pleasing. Balancing is easy. Balancing tool very cheap and tyres have a dot on them which depending on colour/brand goes next to or opposite the valve. Have also done tubed tyres on my Z900 and XS1100 (got through a couple of pinched tubes mind).
Go for it, do it yourself, you`ll be so happy when you succeed.
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I now do my own tyres after buying a cheap manual bead breaker, decent tyre levers, bead seal (for tubeless) and tyre soap. Last summer I changed the tyres on my Vmax and the satisfaction from doing it yourself is very pleasing. Balancing is easy. Balancing tool very cheap and tyres have a dot on them which depending on colour/brand goes next to or opposite the valve. Have also done tubed tyres on my Z900 and XS1100 (got through a couple of pinched tubes mind).
Go for it, do it yourself, you`ll be so happy when you succeed.
Or absolutely pissed when you have three nicks in the tube and never got the tyre levers passed 10 to 2 ;D ;)
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Oddly enough I was pissed when I did mine and it went without a hitch. Wouldn’t recommend it though.🤪
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Like K2 for some strange perverse reason I can't resist doing my own.