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Topics - Robbo
1
« on: September 19, 2012, 10:05:34 AM »
Have really enjoyed riding my naked PRR around in the sunshine, although when I set the timing with a strobe 1-4 were perfect but 2-3 bounced all over the place. Points and condenser are both quite new. Not sure what else could cause it, although 2-3 coil is a new aftermarket one which is a little smaller than the original, could this be the problem?
It pops when cold, usually on tickover or deceleration, I put that down to my unbaffled motad 4-1, I have overwelded any holes in the pipes though and when I use my hand or wire will as a temp baffle it still pops.
Shall I try new points/condenser? Is the coil the culprit - how do I tell?
2
« on: September 04, 2012, 11:56:02 AM »
My Phil read tank has an alloy lug welded on with a femal thread for the fuel tap, I put the thread gauge on and it looks like 1.25mm by about 12mm. A spark plug screws in but it a little loose.
I don't have a fuel tap and am having problems finding one.
Any ideas?
I though about knocking up an adapter, threading a bar and drilling it hollow to provide a male attachment for a locking nut type tap.
3
« on: July 12, 2012, 09:08:18 PM »
my head is stuck to the barrels on my f2... I've undone all the bolts and the barrels have lifted from the engine. I am baffled (unless there are 4 more bolts under the 4 rubber pucks?)
tried knocking it with a rubber mallet, soaking it in wd40, going to attack it with wooden wedges tmw but am really struggling
Any help/advice welcomed
4
« on: June 18, 2012, 08:27:09 AM »
As stock comstars are fitted to F2's with twin disc at the front and single disk on the rear, are there any spoked wheels that can be used as a direct replacement?
5
« on: May 24, 2012, 01:15:52 PM »
My F2 is burning a bit of oil, it is leaking a little so I was going to take the engine out to check it out.
In a previous post an old article said to replace valves, springs, retainers and everything every time you have an f2 apart as they are more likely to cause severe engine damage when they fail.
After having a look around it seems like this is going to cost hundreds of pounds, $750 from dynoman and waaaay more from csmnl.
Has anyone done this, is it necessary? Is there a cheaper way to do it without compromising the engine?
7
« on: April 17, 2012, 05:00:54 PM »
Yoshi 812 kits - are they any good?
Will one for an F1 fit an F2?
Thinking about getting a spare F2 head and doing some performance mods - the F2 already is designed to rev higher than the rest of the range hence the stronger springs and different valves - are there any other changes that would make a good bit of difference?
Would it be worth upgrading clutch, cam and chains etc and are there any suitable upgrades available?
I have ordered Hondaman's book but it says it's mostly for the K range so I don't know how much help it will be with the F2
Any advice appreciated
Robbo
8
« on: April 06, 2012, 06:49:33 PM »
I've had two solid weeks in the workshop and my bike has it's MOT tomorrow.
Here's a list of what I've done so far:
Stripped all the PRR fairings and tank for restoration at a later date
New caliper pistons and seals all round
Stripped the front caliper paint
New brake pads all round
New Loom (biggest, longest, most tedious job of all)
New front light (from double to single)
New rear lights
Handmade rear light/number plate bracket
New indicators (including building a separate indicator loom and installing bulbs and holders to the instrument panel)
New clutch plates and bearings
New cables all round
New plugs
Stripped and lacquered 400/4 tank and fitted it to the frame
Made and covered a new seat
New air filters
Carb strip down and repair - replacing all internals, jets and gaskets
New grips
Fixed exhaust - stripped of old baffles and new ones put in (but will probably get a new Marving one)
New side and center stands
New battery, fuses
Made a new horn button - looks great!
New horn
Adapted and fitted an older K series front mudguard
Fitted some john tickle style headlamp fork clamps
Stripped and repaired both master cylinders
Made some racing number ally side panels and vinyl cut stickers and edging ('79 - year of the bike)
Cleaned up all the chrome but left all the black paint on the engine half coming off - adds to the rat look...
I will post some pictures when I work out how, fingers crossed for tomorrow - it smokes a bit from the 4 into 1 when the revs are high and a small leak from the oil filter housing but aside from that all seems good, can't wait to ride it.
9
« on: March 24, 2012, 09:54:03 PM »
Anyone got a wiring diagram for a PRR or Honda Britain?
At my wits end trying to work out the wiring as its not the same as in the clymer manual (for a 1978 750F)
It's a massive mess and I need to fit a light and indicators and work out why none of the warning or idiot lights work.
Any help greatly appreciated
10
« on: March 20, 2012, 01:52:25 PM »
Went to bleed the back brake only to notice a snapped bleed screw, I though I would be clever trying to get it out with my impact driver but the bit also snapped in there so now I'm buggered...
Any ideas on fixes or other options?
there is a front caliper on the bay at the moment which I will try and get if it doesn't go for silly money
(F2 1978)
11
« on: March 20, 2012, 01:49:30 PM »
Is this a universal part (it looks like it is) that can be taken off carbs from other models? My makeshift fix isn't up to scratch and I want to replace the whole unit. CMS has them for about £70 with postage or I can pull one off another set of carbs - will it fit though?
(F2 1978-79)
12
« on: March 12, 2012, 06:04:42 PM »
I finally got my beauty running this weekend - what a treat.
There are a few bits that need adjusting and I thought I would put it out here to see what you guys advise.
Carb 1+4 spit back sometimes, Carb 1+4 leak petrol through the jets that point to the filter, Downpipes 2+3 are hot, whilst 1+4 are lukewarm.
I'm sort of guessing the floats need adjustment as the fuel begins to spill from the jets as soon after the fuel has been turned on, not quite sure about the spitting(backfiring?) but again this might have something to do with over fuelling perhaps? What I really don't have clue about it the difference in downpipe temp.
Any advice or info would be very helpful.
13
« on: March 12, 2012, 08:35:17 AM »
My 400/4 tank cap latch has broken, does anyone have a spare or know where to buy one?
14
« on: February 15, 2012, 10:47:57 PM »
Both the front calipers are seized on my F2, I am wondering if there are any other calipers that will bolt on - maybe a 4 pot caliper from a slightly newer or bigger bike?
Has anyone got any experience with this? My neighbor has a 4 pot set from a CBR900 or something? He seems to think that they might fit - any ideas?
Secondly; I want to fit a single headlight but I have not brackets or headlight. Some brackets on ebay are going for over £50 per side! Will any F series brackets and headlight fit? Does anyone have one they might be interested in selling?
Due to the amount of work/time/money that I don't have this winter I'm putting my PRR into cafe trim whilst I save a little to get the tank and bodywork done properly. I have started making a seat and going over the bike bit by bit, with the aim of riding it this summer. I gave the carbs a really good clean (solid varnish inside) and she wants to go but seems to be only firing on 3 cylinders. In the mean time I need to work out the mess of a wiring loom, get the headlight, brakes, indicators and seat all done so I can at least take her for a test ride.
15
« on: February 09, 2012, 04:03:55 PM »
Are the inlet rubbers on the F2 the same as every other CB750? I can't seem to find any inlet rubbers for the F2 but loads for the K series. Can I use them or are they different?
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