Honda-SOHC

This may seem a dumb question but I've always believed that you can open your mouth and appear dumb or keep it shut and stay dumb . . .

I've been working my way through a basic service and have come to the timing. The consensus seems to be that static timing is the way to go and a strobe just gives you the reassurance that your advance is working. I've set the points but when I come to the static timing I'm not sure of which of the marks I should be using. Correct me if I'm wrong . . .
In the first pic, The "T" mark is the one on the left and is TDC for No 1 on compression stroke.
The "F" mark is the one on the right.

Why I'm confused is that the guide here http://www.sohc4.net/index.php/troubleshootingignitions-gettingtothepointsontime/ shows the other set of marks lined up (see the second pic).

Please can someone explain which mark is which and what the others are?

I've cured one incontinent carb and am now on to the finer points of getting them to work as a team . . . My initial problem is understanding what all the pipes are for!
Two feed pipes from the tank go to the connection(s) circled on the attached. The bunch of four overflow pipes from the float bowls. I understand these. What are the extra two (overflow?) pipes which attach to the inboard sides of Nos 2&3 (arrowed on the attachment)?
The were routed with the float bowl overflows but I havent found a mention of them in the manuals!

They're cosmetically challenged. What's the original finish? Anodised, powder coated? What should I do to restore them, bearing in mind that I intend to ride it?!

Also, the additional light switch on the left. That's an addition, surely? I would have expected the right hand one to have an off position (for the UK market, at least.)
What's the expert view?

A common point of failure, I believe, and no longer available. I've just managed to get one from a guy in Milwaukee which was NOS.
There's a discussion on making your own http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,3391.msg12852.html#msg12852 If you want to go down that route be aware that the actuator end starts life square and flat. The little dimple your old one is worn by the ball bearing. The end that bears on the clutch is radiused - I can't measure it but the rod diameter for the last 20mm is 7.5mm. I'd guess the radius on the end is 4-> 4.5 mm
The overall length is 255mm with a diameter of 8mm.
I can't imagine why Honda decided to make this a 3/4-piece construction with undercuts (or are then some sort of rolled retaining mechanism?). It looks desperately expensive to me!
Well those are the sizes; some hardening may be necessary depending what you chose to use to make it from.

Anyone got any bright ideas for getting the broken bit out without dismantling the clutch? I've tried a drop of loctite on the other bit . . . .

Greetings from Northamptonshire.
I'm just about to collect a CB500; It's registered 1975, in brown and mostly original apart from the pipes. Some cosmetic work required but it's a runner (it says here!). I've wanted one ever since I started biking back in the 70s so I'm looking forward to getting to grips with its wrinkles and foibles and will be unashamedly picking brains here to help me do it!
Thanks in advance, Pete