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Messages - Robbo
1
« on: September 20, 2012, 12:01:29 PM »
No change when I spray wd40 on the inlet rubbers, any other way I can tell if there is a leak?
2
« on: September 19, 2012, 02:47:51 PM »
Still popping when static timed
3
« on: September 19, 2012, 10:05:34 AM »
Have really enjoyed riding my naked PRR around in the sunshine, although when I set the timing with a strobe 1-4 were perfect but 2-3 bounced all over the place. Points and condenser are both quite new. Not sure what else could cause it, although 2-3 coil is a new aftermarket one which is a little smaller than the original, could this be the problem?
It pops when cold, usually on tickover or deceleration, I put that down to my unbaffled motad 4-1, I have overwelded any holes in the pipes though and when I use my hand or wire will as a temp baffle it still pops.
Shall I try new points/condenser? Is the coil the culprit - how do I tell?
4
« on: September 09, 2012, 06:37:06 PM »
I tried an old triumph one but it was too big, I might try and find another but until then I'll make an adapter on the lathe
5
« on: September 09, 2012, 01:05:26 PM »
Mine has a lug welded on with a female thread, I am going to make an adapter for it so I can use another tap.
6
« on: September 04, 2012, 11:56:02 AM »
My Phil read tank has an alloy lug welded on with a femal thread for the fuel tap, I put the thread gauge on and it looks like 1.25mm by about 12mm. A spark plug screws in but it a little loose.
I don't have a fuel tap and am having problems finding one.
Any ideas?
I though about knocking up an adapter, threading a bar and drilling it hollow to provide a male attachment for a locking nut type tap.
7
« on: August 10, 2012, 10:05:46 AM »
Got mine in a full gasket set from Wemoto, think Athena made them
8
« on: August 02, 2012, 01:11:35 PM »
Having grown up in Hastings I feel for you! Whenever I go back on my bike I lock it up out of sight.
I might have a spare F2 calliper, I'll have a look later on - if it fits and it's not f@@ked you can have it
9
« on: July 12, 2012, 09:08:18 PM »
my head is stuck to the barrels on my f2... I've undone all the bolts and the barrels have lifted from the engine. I am baffled (unless there are 4 more bolts under the 4 rubber pucks?)
tried knocking it with a rubber mallet, soaking it in wd40, going to attack it with wooden wedges tmw but am really struggling
Any help/advice welcomed
10
« on: June 18, 2012, 12:48:22 PM »
Could I use different discs?
11
« on: June 18, 2012, 08:27:09 AM »
As stock comstars are fitted to F2's with twin disc at the front and single disk on the rear, are there any spoked wheels that can be used as a direct replacement?
12
« on: May 24, 2012, 09:47:14 PM »
Gunna test the compression this weekend, this should give me an indication if either the valves are not seating right or if the piston/rings are knackered.
In this weather I just want to be riding, not wrenching.
13
« on: May 24, 2012, 01:15:52 PM »
My F2 is burning a bit of oil, it is leaking a little so I was going to take the engine out to check it out.
In a previous post an old article said to replace valves, springs, retainers and everything every time you have an f2 apart as they are more likely to cause severe engine damage when they fail.
After having a look around it seems like this is going to cost hundreds of pounds, $750 from dynoman and waaaay more from csmnl.
Has anyone done this, is it necessary? Is there a cheaper way to do it without compromising the engine?
14
« on: May 08, 2012, 09:02:10 AM »
wow, mine must be worth at least £10k then 
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