Honda-SOHC

I've managed to source some shims in order to shim the clutch basket out so it has very little play.

The genuine Honda shims, 90458-323-010, 90459-323-010 and 90460-323-010 are 0.1, 0.3 and 0.5 respectively. They are hard to find and when you do find them they tend to be expense for what they are. The cheapest 0.1mm shim is currently £23.80, a 0.3mm is £23.64 and a 0.5mm is £20.19

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403800935092?epid=20005555246&hash=item5e04694ab4:g:bIAAAOSwq3Zi4bJE&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAXmynROe1KCu8%2Be6E4GFvE88e%2BHwTD8YdWo7TFMQuIdKgvCmcNoFDkr%2FiNJ9BTpb46D0EXVroLORNRQ3LWcGPDtfbO2VY0ogmz2GMLP7GsEKW%2F0V55ifNKcfVxLqW9qwBtyp9VQq7pa8m3g9rDiwaoJ0YVzCzkd19Bclabq8mk8wQAQ%2BBPUc96h8FcIb8ve35ql1P5%2Bk0Yv%2Bt6KIUkWOYc%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR46g_5faYA

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154083052710?hash=item23e010cca6:g:AZoAAOSwnB1fW3IW&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4LsiKS6JObfinNs1ffunbtQIPLmfQTvsolvjBq9cILXC1W0pzTdVAmEloS8%2BFR2aoTHX3tbfMd7zSKFtpQib6NXSoF0SgdZOgEzOCwEcKTFX4cpf2e7zM4mz13Eh%2BvK9OiBjePKS8bkXBy1s5KLOj%2FX3A6FoPFIMO8GYTGiN6tyDPYrfjnL3Jnx1qeHBLCuHL7Bog4jIZxDwKAJ1BBRcAWVcSejfOfXu1nJL2rkUrUztrOGPgOtjHitYP38taxiWgYn3MiSpQrA1RJlbG8I6wGmFeiLsQ9jGG4mBma%2BA%2F0RQ%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4if-ZfaYA

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284378477244?epid=1223272257&hash=item42364732bc:g:imoAAOSwCCVg9uo4&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoBv2XBw5BJOd6R1JByrstXM5G2CYGYBia%2FnkKc8tDpBN4tD2y9g1GL6j6%2FdWDxBsUaBjIuGhdUPKlh%2FM2wexD88pT9XF1tWszdzrgH8iVkXSjgD3xLOY1qcPIqcjtTY%2BWrL%2Fy0H9H%2BJ2UsHRGJdmioIBWIDotIuvVBuIPT7EY3ebgbuK7493vRpInISFNfQAxdD4R41RXIuN42GY75srMqI%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4K6gJjaYA

The problem is you don't know exactly how many you're going to need, it could be one 0.1 or 2 x 0.1 or 1 x 0.3 etc.

So I've decided to sell them in a set, mine are 0.1, 0.2 and 0.5. So almost the same. If the set consists of 2 x 0.1, 1 x 0.2 and 1 x 0.5mm then you have enough to shim out to 0.9mm and if you've got that much play you've got bigger problems than a lack of shims.

Mine are also stainless steel so unlike the genuine Honda shims they won't rust sitting in a box if you find you don't need them all.

I have to alter these shims when they arrive because the are not the right size, the inside is fine but the outside is too large to fit inside the inner clutch basket, the alteration is not easy TBH and after doing these I doubt I'll do any more. Hence the price for a set is £12 inc P&P.

I have 10 sets ONLY. Any that don't sell will go on Ebay for £15.

First come, first served. Don't PM me, if you want any post here.


Oh and in case you're wondering where they go, they go behind the circlip that holds the inner basket in place. Fit a circlip and see how much the basket slides out along the shaft, if it does you need to shim that movement out. Standard clearance is 0.1mm so if you can feel any more than a midges then you need to shim it. It helps with clutch play and action when it done and also quietens down the clutch on tick over. That's why the noise goes when you pull the clutch in, it's this gap you've eliminated by pulling in the clutch.

A press would be fine Roo, again I'd protect the ends of the shaft, just in case.

Just found the setring and the oil control vales.

Also just found the dowels which hold the needle rollers in place, they are 6mm wide and 10.4mm long. That match what you were looking at?

Lucky man, not many about.

Getting it off is fairly easy, it's getting it on that can be a problem. Hitting the sprocket end of the shaft isn't that much of a problem, it's fairly solid steel BUT I'd still use something between the shaft and the hammer, thin piece of metal maybe. However when installing the bearing you need to hit the other end and that's a lot more fragile, I seem to recall some brass bushing inside the shaft, so protecting the end of the shaft is vital because if you deform it then the needle bearing won't go on or it will bind inside it.

The O ring should be easy to find I reckon, nothing special about it, just really thin.

Don't forget, DON'T reuse the circlips. Not worth the risk.

Called a set ring, and I should have one lying around somewhere. Main shaft (clutch) or countershaft? as they are different sizes.

Another for the package, getting to be a bit full this package.

Finished it Roo. Bolts came today.

It's not to my satisfaction if I'm honest. I intend to replace the front board and modify the new one so it gives me more working area. It will do for the time being though. Not varnished it yet, might as well wait until I do the new board. I also need to do the bolts on the rear board.

The links btw are for 500 grips, those are not good grips IMO, without gloves they really hurt after just a few minutes riding. Even with gloves they are uncomfortable IMO.

Look for 550F grips, those are the same as you have already but better. By the time the 550K came out it would have been using 550F grips I reckon.

I take on board the idea of the web being an optical illusion BUT all the probes I did were halted in exactly the same place on every jet. I measured the wire and it was identical from either end, they all showed some obstruction where the diffuser part met the threaded part. The wire was thin enough to pass through the obstruction IF you wiggled it but not if you just pushed.

However this could also be caused by how they are machined, if the upper part (the part stamped with the number) bores are larger than 40 size and only where it meets the lower part is actually drilled 40 that would mean a small step where the larger and smaller bores meet (you following me) this could be the obstruction, it hits this step and you feel it must be the web, a little jiggling and it finds the smaller hole and passes through. Which could mean the web is an optical illusion. I mean in the pic showing one dissected there doesn't appear to be any sign of the web BUT I can't zoom in on those pics so maybe it's there but too small to see?