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Messages - davidcumbria
1
« on: May 12, 2024, 09:07:06 AM »
My lower shock bushes pressed out without difficulty after 50 years using two sockets in a vice after heating the area using a mapp torch. Cheap to replace and you are having frame repainted anyway. Gets round all the hassle documented by some other methods
2
« on: May 12, 2024, 08:53:59 AM »
I agree with your approach using our real advantage as time rich private restorers. So what if takes hours - getting an unstressed connection at the ports that you don’t have to worry about will be worth it. Too much to hope that these aftermarket units would just bolt on but your patience is going to be rewarded.
4
« on: May 09, 2024, 11:56:42 PM »
5
« on: May 09, 2024, 11:29:26 PM »
Looking good Ted - did you have the rear mudguard rechromed . - ££££££ !
6
« on: May 09, 2024, 11:26:04 PM »
In concept, the inner race of the bearings form one complete tube along with the other bits mounted onto the axle, tightening should clamp all those elements tight together in one continuous load path.
In production reality and tolerancing, the bearing "seats" in the wheel casting and the bearing spacer length would have to be very accurate OR individually shimmed to get an exact match once torque is applied at assembly.
What the common design does is to to use one reference bearing (usually the chain side on rear, often left side on front) to fully fix the outer race hard against it's hub shoulder, then retainer ring to keep it from moving.
The opposite side is usually left with some space between outer track and wheel shoulder, this to effectively "float" in the wheel axialy. That can then be used for tolerance of the assembly comprising of primary bearing, spacers etc. Not too critical in other words, the primary bearing controlling lateral location.
It SHOULD turn freely when all tightened, but will accommodate some bearing preload if need be (that would mean spacer total was less than the two hub shoulder in dimensions) with any significant drag being cause for concern and a look at just what components and their placing is doing in there.
If the rear wheel was tightened with no brake drag and no chain fitted, then likely you'd feel some small shift in rotation with anything significant causing more concern. They should spin reasonably easily, but not like a bicycle wheel does
It's odd to describe and sounds like a "fudge" to say so, but unlike setting a bearing arrangement for preloaded by measuring turning torque etc, these are just meant to be assembled, correctly, with no real methods except assuring the right parts are used and in the right place.
Judgement would give that any significant changes as it's tightened should raise questions, as Ted's done, then investigating exactly how the various parts are installed to try and make absolutely sure all is in the right orientation.
Bit long winded, but difficult to describe in a different way,, possibly
Thanks for that helpful clarification. I remember now what the issue was on a front wheel. After shouldering the first bearing continued driving inward of the the outer race of the non shouldering second bearing using a socket jams the the inner race against the separating tube and introduces side load by pushing the outer race further inward. It’s a matter of feel to decide when to stop since there is no shouldering of the outer race. So to get a free spinning bearing I had to pull it out slightly again. When tightening the spindle with its spacers fixed length of the inner race assembly prevents excessive inward movement of the outer race.
7
« on: May 09, 2024, 07:18:11 AM »
Good fettling Ted. Sounds like you’re getting close just as the weather is picking up👍
I’ve previously been confused by the interaction of the spindle clamping and bearing fitment on other bikes. . Inner races spin easily after bearing fitment but then are pressed against the spacer tube by tightening the spindle. I’ve changed bearings thinking they were tight only to find they were fine once removed. Am I missing something?
8
« on: May 04, 2024, 10:14:49 AM »
Good luck with new shed. However big it’s never big enough. 👍
9
« on: May 02, 2024, 11:39:14 AM »
Thanks Flat four I’m going to have to keep an eye on that oil level! Looking into joining the BMW club. As always now there are some superb video tutorials on you tube an absolute god send and I’ve already stripped the bike and figured out what tools I need - virtually 👍
10
« on: May 01, 2024, 07:55:42 AM »
Apologies I can’t make it after all have been asked to help out at a police Bikesafe event. Next time.👍
11
« on: April 30, 2024, 10:52:19 PM »
I’ve seen reports of worn carb body where needle jet seats allowing leakage around the jet. Worth checking.
12
« on: April 29, 2024, 09:19:11 AM »
13
« on: April 29, 2024, 09:13:31 AM »
Looks like an opportunity. On their website they only list a system for cb500. Presumably no good for a 550 k1 ?
14
« on: April 29, 2024, 09:06:17 AM »
Agree Bryan mine didn’t move so I wondered what the point of the slot is.
15
« on: April 27, 2024, 08:12:15 AM »
Maybe remove the tappets and refit the covers minus o rings to give you another handy place to knock. Or if want replace them ( very cheap ) partially screw them in leaving a lip to drive against taking care to protect the valve cover edge. Haven’t tried this but it might be worth investigating.
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