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Messages - Mike_Berkshire
1
« on: May 04, 2024, 09:19:12 PM »
No matter what set you need thicker O rings at the headgasket than those in the set
Does this apply to all gasket sets Bryan or just relating to this particular model? I will be putting the top end back together on my CB550 in the next month or 2 and it would be good know if I’m going to need to source some different O rings.
2
« on: May 03, 2024, 09:59:36 PM »
Thanks for this. It’s one of the many questions I had lined up to ask so it’s good to see somebody else asking it.
Please let me know how you get on.
3
« on: May 02, 2024, 09:39:55 PM »
Old bushes knocked out today. They were as Julie described: a sort of Bakelite material, definitely not metal. I concocted a tool to knock them out made of a length of M10 studding. Worked a treat. When it comes time to put the arm back in the frame I’m probably going to need some help. Looking at the parts diagram I don’t recall there being that many spacers and washers etc when I took it apart. Everything that came off was bagged up however,
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4
« on: May 01, 2024, 10:47:57 AM »
The old ones you are referring to are like a bakolite. Cut a chanel in them and remove them before powder coating etc. Just cut lengthway with a hacksaw blade and prise out. Then cover the ends for powder coating. I sell the bronze bush replacements.
Thats extremely helpful and I now understand - having properly cleaned the area I can now see. So I remove the inner steel tube, cut out the old bushes, mask, paint, knock the new bushes in, put the steel tube back in, refit arm, re-fit retaining bolt, re-grease? Thanks so much! Mike
5
« on: May 01, 2024, 10:10:31 AM »
Another newbie question. I am getting close to the point where I can send the frame to the paintshop for stripping/enamelling. I have taken off the swinging arm, removed the pivot bolt & the end caps. I assume that where the manual (Im mainly using Haynes) describes 'bushes' it is referring to the inner (steel?) sleeve. Having only worked on old Brit bikes previously, to me a swinging arm bush is a short brass or phosphor bronze insert. Subject to the bush sleeve being within tolerance I am planning to leave it in the swinging arm whilst it is repainted; masking the ends and the grease nipple. Is this approach OK and is my understanding of what needs to be checked for tolerance correct? Thanks
6
« on: April 28, 2024, 08:37:40 AM »
Done.
7
« on: April 27, 2024, 10:12:22 PM »
As long as the nut screws on leave it alone as you dont need that slot
That’s good to know Bryan. How do I switch it from slack to tensioned when I rebuild the engine?
8
« on: April 27, 2024, 09:40:51 PM »
found on mine that you need a magnet to tell if washer is stuck to head on some of the less accessable ones
A top tip Martin; I'll try that, thanks!
9
« on: April 27, 2024, 09:39:43 PM »
Are we talking here about the captive type stud/bolt that is normally part of the tensioner blade - not available as a separate part? Is your tensioner blade in otherwise good condition.
The tensioner blade and mechanism assembly looks to me to be in good condition. It is just the head of the screw that goes through the 10mm nut with the little gear bit on the end. Where the outer part of the locking screw should have a slot it has had too much force applied with a screwdriver and one side of the slotted part for the screwdriver has sheared off.
10
« on: April 27, 2024, 05:28:48 PM »
The washers stick in the head recesses but if really missing are still available new.
On the adjuster is the thread stripped all the way down or just at the end? Honda should never have put that slot in there it gets abused.
New pattern ones are available but expensive and dont often come up used in good order any more.
I MAY have a used one but it wont be cheap
Thanks Bryan. The thread isnt stripped its the slot that has broken away; theres only half the slot. I have a mate who is a very ingenious fellow with a plethora of lathes, welding equipment and goodness only knows what else. I will see what he can devise but if I draw a blank I'll let you know.
11
« on: April 27, 2024, 10:09:37 AM »
Its been a pretty good morning so far. Head and barrels now removed and time for a rest and some tea. Just a couple of worries along the way: 1) I only have 11 head bolt washers, not 12 so where is the 12th, was there ever a 12th? ( I have used an inspection lamp to look down the cam chain tunnel and I cant see anything in there, I have given the head a good shake and it hasnt fallen out. 2) the screwdriver slot on the cam chain tensioner adjuster screw is stripped out/snapped off. Waiting for my son to come round later this morning to help remove the forks.
12
« on: April 27, 2024, 08:22:28 AM »
Thanks all. Im pleased to report that with the dawn of a new (rainy) day there has been another victory in the shed. What did the trick was using a blunt ended punch and using it to tap the end of the dowels using a metal hammer to get a nice sharp impact; not much force was needed and this was obviously sufficient to crack the bond between the steel dowel and the aluminium. Look out for the next posts asking for help and advice getting the head off. Im gong to leave it for a while before the next step having squirted releasing oil onto the head bolts. Thanks again for the support.
13
« on: April 26, 2024, 10:25:20 PM »
The dowels aren't locked to either part Mike, they are totally removable. It's just the corrosion that's making them feel locked at the moment.
Thanks Julie. Does that mean that they can be tapped out to free them or are they waisted?
14
« on: April 26, 2024, 09:43:04 PM »
Mine was fairly solid, might be worth tapping it back down where it is sligjhtly raised. I found my big rubber mallet worked making sure I tapped it all round including some upper blows on the intake side.
I also sprayed WD40 type stuff all around the dealing area.
Thanks Ted. I have just given it another good squirting and a firmer tapping with a plastic headed mallet to no avail. I havent tried tapping upwards from the intake side; i will try that tomorrow morning after an overnight soak. Where did you bash it upwards on the intake side? I can slide a polished paint scraper around between the castings to the right hand dowel but not the left hand one so I guess its seized on the left one. Im assuming the dowels are supposed to be locked into the head as opposed to the rocker housing?
15
« on: April 26, 2024, 07:49:07 PM »
Im assuming that the dowels are designed to be retained in the head and not in the rocker housing? Giving the top end of the dowel a few taps with a blunt punch might hep free off some of the corrosion?
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