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Messages - Skoti
16
« on: March 02, 2024, 12:51:56 PM »
If you don't want to fit the plastic replacements there are quite a few aftermarket stubby LED type indicators on eBay including some that look as if they will fix to rear plates or mudguards.
Presumably I'm going to need resistors for every light with the original electrics unless I do dig deep and get an m.unit, very tempting having spoken to Roo about his
There you go Dom, LED indicator flasher unit available on that same link that I posted earlier along with suitable LED bulbs for your bike.. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin
17
« on: March 01, 2024, 02:50:19 PM »
This is what it looks like
Those are also popular on 1970's British bikes, they fit nicely into the headlamp shell and are not obtrusive. I fitted a compact Daytona volt meter for more info. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GQUC6TZKV9SkJBCh9
19
« on: February 28, 2024, 12:56:47 PM »
Aye Ted,
AGM batteries seem better.
I've been using them on my modern bikes for some time now.
But I'm reluctant to use them on older bikes as the electrical guru over on the Norton club site says only to use them if you have a modern solid state rectifier/regulator pack fitted.
He says on older regulators the charge input varies more and standard lead acid batteries cope better with this as they have breather pipes that deal with any heat pressure build up.
20
« on: February 28, 2024, 09:24:31 AM »
Martin,
thanks for your input and good to know you're getting out and about on your Honda.
I'm still using the original rectifier and voltage regulator on my CB750F1, but did once have have an overcharging problem which I fixed with info gleaned from this forum. (But that's maybe for another subject thread).
However my new battery and charging system now works exactly as it should, I fitted a voltage meter to keep an eye on it.
Sometimes I do stuff without considering the consequences such as fitting the halogen headlight bulb.
As Bryan mentions the generator needs high revs, but that's not always possible in city stop/start traffic so it's not enough to replenish the battery voltage lost whilst idling at standstill.
Also I have a Boyer electronic ignition system fitted which apparently cuts out if the battery voltage is too low.
So I've learned the hard way that the charging system can just about cope in city traffic when the bike is in standard original spec.
Anyhow all this has been gone over in a previous thread where Julie mentions what I've just learned!
So back to the original thread subject, I'm hoping LED bulbs should help lower the power loss in city traffic.
21
« on: February 27, 2024, 06:10:35 PM »
Steve,
I think it looks similar to the Nighthawk, but the one I'm gonna look at has ''CB Two Fifty" on the side panels.
23
« on: February 27, 2024, 04:32:55 PM »
Wondering if anybody can advise me on known problems to look out for when buying a CB250 type MC26.
It's a 1996 model that's done 23,000km.
I'm not intimately familiar with this model as it was launched after I already had given up working in a Honda stealership.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Skoti
24
« on: February 11, 2024, 07:17:39 AM »
Over on kleinanzeingen.de (in Germany) there's currently three listed for sale.
Asking price around 3000 euros.
Hope that helps
Skoti
25
« on: February 08, 2024, 06:07:08 PM »
It had been very used and abused when I first recovered it back to my motorcycle rescue centre (shed).
26
« on: February 08, 2024, 02:05:13 PM »
Probably not in the same league as a Cub.
It's a two stroke twist and go thing with a retail price higher than a proper four stroke C70 in it's day, which maybe explains why you don't see many about.
Anyhow I got it for nowt and saved it from the skip.
27
« on: February 08, 2024, 10:28:29 AM »
Johnny,
It's an 1981 NF75 made in Belgium.
Not one of Mr Honda's finest models IMHO.
28
« on: February 08, 2024, 09:48:07 AM »
Over taken by a racing bicycle going down a Spanish mountain pass yesterday!
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29
« on: February 02, 2024, 05:01:26 PM »
The problem with repainting shocks is that not matter how careful you are it's never strong enough to withstand the adjusting process, the paint on the top of the lugs gets rubbed off as soon as you move the collars, then sometimes just the collar moving can rub the paint off underneath it, the springs can touch the body when they compress and that rubs paint off, they look great until you use them. Makes me mad as hell, all that work, all that time and they look worse than they did before within a few months, not to mention scratching the paint with the spring compressors, Jesus my blood pressure is going up just thinking about it.
Calming down now, they look really nice, and the collars are really well made. Well done.
Black plastic tubing of the type used to keep golf clubs from rattling together, fitted perfectly over the body of my Commando rear shocks. Prevents the springs from damaging the paint. If your shockers adjust with a C spanner, then just lag it with a bit of cardboard before preloading the springs. Hope that helps. Skoti
30
« on: January 30, 2024, 07:38:46 AM »
A wee bit of shrink wrap fitted to your footrest spring ends will help protect your new paint.
All looking nice, please keep posting photos.
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