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Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: Today at 09:52:01 AM »
Adjusted floats all within 1mls now no leaks at carb rubber it was still popping check exhaust copper washer it was leaking now no popping and air screw set to 1 1/2 so I think it was exhaust washer
Good to get to the bottom of it, probably beneficial to have that odd one out float chamber now matching the others too. The idle airscrew adjustment does allow for difference in individual flow within Honda set-up routine, being the real icing on the cake in regards to carb balance and smooth low speed running. This is exactly what modern fuel injection systems do for smooth idle rpm, modulation of cylinder mixture by monitoring of the cylinder speed individually through ecu. Honda did this way before by observation of rpm and singular adjustment of idle circuit to get them smooth.
2
« on: Today at 09:19:58 AM »
I'd start with removing exhaust, carbs etc, then plug the holes and give the engine a really good clean while its easily accessible. Prefer that to dismantle with oil/grit etc in place.
Then electrics off, finally engine out then just the chassis to dismantle when it's completely bare.
3
« on: Today at 09:14:53 AM »
I'd be inclined to remove and inspect it, to then at least have confidence in it's competent operational effectiveness.
It should be at highest "over pressure" risk when starting with cold oil, the relief valve is ultimately to save the oil pump drive from failure on any engine.
4
« on: April 16, 2024, 12:26:38 AM »
Agree that it would be ideal to reset the float height to get equal volume, within reasonable scope, for all the carbs. Certainly it should remove suspicion at least for further evaluation.
I just can't see the view given by that scource about the direction of the airscrew in mixture volume though. Highly suspicious that's wrong and obviously contentious.
There's a good comparison too, with the F2 PD carbs, having the "mixture" adjustment screw on engine side of throttle slide, they emphatically work to change fuel volume rather than air. This type is turned out to increase fuel volume at low speed circuit.
These carb, K series, with screw on airbox side of throttle slide, change the air volume to alter mix by giving more air bypass to the circuit when moved outward (anticlockwise) such that the venturi vacuum can then exert less "pull" on the installed idle jet. Close them right inward, then it's pure fuel and no air they suck. Out makes it leaner, and sounds so too.
5
« on: April 15, 2024, 07:57:54 AM »
Diagnosis, the need to seperate electric from fuel is priority in helping to solve this.
Start from cold, run 20 sec then switch off. Check exhaust for cylinder temperature to find which are cold. Swap a "hot" plug with a cold one, then repeat to see if the problem transfer across between those two.
If it stays in the same place (the fault) then you can swap plug leads over. If fault is on #1 then swap the plug lead over with #4 to, again, see if the fault moves. Same if it's one of the two middle cylinder 2 & 3 that show fault.
If you've two cold and consistent with 1 coil of ignition, e.g. both 1 & 4 then you're ordinarily looking at that whole set of ignition. The points, condenser, leads and coil & caps for that set.
If absolutely none of this has any effect, then it's likely in the fuel system.
6
« on: April 15, 2024, 07:38:59 AM »
Good news Mo, hopefully another little problem sorted and good to get it to the show too.
There's often a few bits on most older bike that's needed in sorting out, despite what was claimed from seller. Hopefully you're closer to having how you want it now with the work you've done. It does feel better if you can get reasonably conclusive fixes in place, along with the confidence to take it out more.
7
« on: April 15, 2024, 07:34:30 AM »
Listening to audio, through headphones, and it sounds like one or more cylinder isn't running at idle, it doesn't start as you open the throttle either.
What this usually causes is to adjust the rpm at idle too high in keeping it running, then if tge cold cylinder starts the rpm simple goes to tge higher position from having all running.
From characteristics shown, there's intermittent running of some cylinder which will need the cause identified to progress.
8
« on: April 13, 2024, 11:05:08 PM »
Good news, at least you'll not wake up thinking about it in a cold sweat  Looks, from the manual drawing, like a felt washer, retaining washer and lastly the small circlip to stop it all moving and oil inside.
9
« on: April 13, 2024, 08:22:03 PM »
Given the history ... carbs cleaned, running ok then stored .... it would suggest the idle circuits are impaired just enough to give this type of problem.
It could be worthwhile to use something like Stabil fuel stabilizer or Reddex fuel treatment to dose it, then fingers crossed and run it more to see if it'll get going again with that method.
Less intervention and may just get you back on track rather than having to dismantle anything just yet.
10
« on: April 13, 2024, 06:54:49 PM »
On page one this thread, there's three item located on that gear shaft #6, 5, 23 that look like they control lateral location of that shaft.
It doesn't show if thy are internal OR located external on the opposite outside of the case on lever change side.
Is there access to look the shaft location on gear lever side ? Near to sprocket area ?
11
« on: April 13, 2024, 09:54:47 AM »
Difficult time for all the family Ted, with support and consideration so vital in looking after someone.
Good to talk about them in positive ways, to celebrate their life and appriate them throughout the difficulty they experienced.
Best wishes for all of your family.
Nigel.
12
« on: April 12, 2024, 11:44:01 PM »
If you wanted to try something in the way of experimentation, then NGK BPR8EIX may possibly be worthwhile to assess any effects during the flat spot from fuel metering.
The mechanical fit should be equivalent, but you'd need to check side by side to make sure of no anomalies/ impediment before fitting them.
13
« on: April 12, 2024, 08:55:16 PM »
From the plug colour it does seem like its possibly rich enough to knock the edge off response and crispy-ness. Worthwhile turning the idle adjust screws out half turn ...... to judge if there's significant change or not .... as experiment and investigate evaluation. Quick and easy to assess effect, free too
14
« on: April 12, 2024, 01:38:31 PM »
As a point of interest Mo, which spark plug type are you using in this engine ? The whole designated sequence that is.
15
« on: April 11, 2024, 08:17:24 PM »
One coil only runs cylinders 1 & 4 with the other coil running the 2 & 3 pair.
Easy to quick check, no numbers needed.
Another easy test, if you've any e-z-start or brake cleaner, you can put a little squirt into the cylinder via it's sync port while its running to see if that pot will chime in, obviously then indicates fuel absent on that one.
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