Honda-SOHC

Hi and Welcome. Another 3 750's coming out of the woodwork, that's good.

As some of the above, I've used Cibie Z beam which is a really good light but I don't like the pattern when it's leant over (good on a car as the reach on dip is really good in not going toward oncoming traffic but still shows road edge well) as the cutoff is so sharp and the Stanley H4 has more spread to cope with this. H4 has the best main beam for a single unit I've ever used without auxillary lights.

Don't think you'd be dissapointed with either though.

Brilliant old photos coming out, nice to see some stuff from this era.

I had a yoshimura pipe on a K2 (bought it at the dixon shop in Godalming) black one as yours mostly rotted from inside but still have remains. Also have access to a almost new one on 750 F2 the owner of which said I could use to get a copy made............. so loosely thinking of exploring getting one made in stainless have done no work on it so far and guess that it's not possible to market someone elses design. So if I can find a scource then see if any interest in getting some made as a group together kinda thing.
As you say they have a wiered balance between quite at low revs along with a good top end noise plus good flow.

I bet that CBX sounded sweet!!!!

Kal Gaurd.......there's a blast from the past. Mostly used their "Chain Kote" since the seventies and now  the only one I buy, the graphite one. This makes chains last longer than anything I've seen just apply it when you get home after a run and it stays on the chain then.

Most 7" units car/bike have the same lug orientation so will usually fit straight in  to these rims just depends if you want to keep it original or not.

The later "Stanley H4" from CB900 has a really good beam pattern as well, used two of them in a car (Triumph TR8) before and they gave brilliant vision.

I guess the original shocks were not of a high end spec anyway, they did the job and I thought they weren't too bad compared to others at the time but by no means a precision spec that we may be used to now. I would have thought that they're worth keeping in stock if not serviceable just because they represent an orignal part of the bike.

You say that you had someone look at them at work who thought they'd had it, it's likely that they would say the same for a spec like that when new anyway as they just would not match up to any critical current appraisal anyway, spose things move on like that!

That looks like a Yoshimura pipe in your heading photo? always liked that design for SOHC 750's, just really neat looking, Bubadel also has the same on his one elsewhere on this site.

Just a tip for screws that could be stuck (don't know if you already may do this) especially engine cases etc; use a larger sized pin punch to gently tap any burred metal around the cross head of the screws back into original place. Then using a good quality / new impact driver tip, tap that into the screw head for a tight fit and either use a socket and T bar to lean on it or impact driver they normally come out.

Usually if you start at them half hearted then you get more rounding off and then stuck, if you prep them up first you can get a much higher first time success.

I've only really owned Jap stuff but more recently rode some brit twins (BSA 650, Triumph 750) from late 60's mid 70's and still can't quite believe how much they shake!!! and the Triumph felt quite slow which I "discussed" with the owner who said I needed to rev it more. Sure it was faster but just felt so cruel to it, like it was going to smash itself to bits. I wouldn't want to own one. I think you'd have had to produced kids if you were thinking about it before subjecting yourself to that level of industrial strength vibration ;-D

Also heard bad reports about 500T Honda, Friend had one that he was always repairing.

Odd choice but can be low cost is a Ducati Monster 600, one of the sweatest twins you'll ever experience and they feel so light almost bicycle like to ride. Try one if you get a chance, think they did a low cost no frills in black only called "Monster Dark". And they're SOHC per cylinder so almost count.

I've had one sand blasted before, complete assembled cases before strip down and make wooden plugs to cover oil pipe and starter-motor holes and replace any bolts if you want to keep originals. Obviosly this gives the same finish to all cases unless you've got extra rocker and alternator castings. This gives the best finish for painting either silver or black.

Originally all main cases, barrels and head casting were a greyish / silver aluminium-ish painted finish (should be a piece of p to mix up ;-) with the cam, alt and gearbox covers loosely polished but not too shiny, just laquered.