Honda-SOHC

Didn't put enough detail in last post but the question about how big a skim has an impact on cam chain tensioner also as the total shift is doubled (2 runs of chain, up and down) so the tensioner will reach max tolerance earlier in the chain wear cycle.

Be interesting to see how you get on as I've never worked on one with a skim to my knowledge.

I'm not sure if this will be suitable for your timescale and don't know if they are still going but:- there was a company called "PRECORIL Seals" in Frimley that I've bought o-rings from to my spec years ago and they just seemed to specialise in this stuff. I lived near there and just went in with examples that they matched so they don't specifically do bikes but in depth application of seals.

Will be going past there this week so will look them up if I can't find on www.

Kawasaki's new anti-lock brakes really played havoc with the wheel design.

But really why would anybody spend part of their life doctoring a photo to look like that!! I can think of better thin...........................................

I like that pic of the 350, is the garden grown along the lines of patina as well

Apes on that one as well, If you had an RC30 do you think you could get a pair of apes on that?

I think everything is good fun to ride, you have to have what suits you, thanks for the pictures.

Appears to be all there, I guess you'd go and look at it if you were serious.

Like anything at will have it's own value to who-ever wants it, I was speaking to someone the other day that lost 18k in two years buying a new chrysler voyager yikes!! you could get two of these and pay for a build and still not reach that amount.

Also it would still come in under many newer bikes to buy and repair AND hold it's eventual cost for years if looked after.

I like a good bit of test pilot-ry? Pete.

When I saw that suggestion I thought what a good way to do it, I know that in shot blasting that they can use sharper or more rounded grit depending on what there is to remove, although it sounds alarming it is quite a gentle low risk way to do it.

Let us know if it's any good.

Hi again. To me that would confirm that you need a sealant at key points if not all (I've always covered total area) on any gaskets pattern or otherwise.

These are my reasons:- Honda clearly designed (original gasket proves it) to have some type of sealing additional to the gasket material around the oil ways.

I don't believe that sufficient torque can be exerted to do it totally dry with no additional sealant of some sort (copper rings, factory applied sticky-bits).

If you don't have that original spec of gasket OR something superior to it you'll have to use a substitute.

You can't increase the torque without stepping outside the original design spec, anybody that knows anything about the engineering design process will tell you that looking at this design (layed down in 1967 ish) was an absolute masterpiece then and still is an example of how to make a first off reliable engine from scratch; just one example is the stud design that is waisted (thinner) in the centre than at the threads to give equal torque load over the whole length and cross-section of each stud!!! also how the bottom threads are buried down into the casing so that the load is pulled from further within the material again to spread load indicates how thorough the design team went to work.

To me, the risk of using Blue Hylomar is only to avoid ANY loose sealant floating around as it survives in oil. The rest is all upside, as previously posted (by rigwit?) this stuff is seriously good.

With a nice new tube you can get a really thin spread coating onto the gasket, it even looks and feels like the original coating when it's dry.

Be interesting to see what your barrel / head inspection shows, let us know.

Maybe a bit too enthusiastic design appreciation there, maybe should be filed under "soapbox" but they are really good...............really.