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Messages - bomber
16
« on: July 03, 2017, 09:27:26 AM »
Seems like I have ame issue, would you be able to post pic of your new rectifier unit? Many thanks Apologies flat four,
I spoke with David silver Spares also and they exchanged the reg/Rec for one which has a black and white wire making the wiring side easier! Although the new unit is twice the bloody size which is going to make it fun fitting it under the seat!!😡
I am in the process of cleaning everything up so testing will hopefully be over the weekend!
I'll be sure to update you!
Thanks again for your help!
Alan
17
« on: July 02, 2017, 03:10:15 PM »
I finally got all the bits together!
Went to start the engine and all that happens is a blowing a main fuse.
I think I have put together cabling in correctly on the starter solenoid.
I have 2x red cables one form battery and second for the loom on one side and on left there is black original cable going to the starter motor.
there are also two short cables going to the loom which color match the solenoid so I think that is ok.
Could anyone be kind and took a picture of the wiring around the solenoid?
Any thoughts?
18
« on: April 18, 2017, 11:00:25 PM »
Sorry for hijacking your thread, Lobo, I have just rebuild my bike cb550f and struggling with power, as you mentioned this DSS electronic ignition requires positive feed, would you say it is ok to run it straight from battery? Reason is after plugging all the connections there is no sign of life  I suspect it is something to do with blue and yellow cables still disconnected as per pont 12 in the instructions form DSS Many thanks Hi Bodd,
There are quite a few choices about... and indeed most seem to retain the points... but now purely as 'switches', and in doing so minimising any current flow across them & subsequent wear. Consequently the promise is they'll rarely ever need setting up again / adjusting. Hmmm..the poor things bouncing up & down @ 4000 rpm day in / day out leaves me wondering about that.
Anyways, I bought the DSS offering and stuck it on my '750 K2. An easy enough job, no extra boxes to hide about the bike etc. and no, I wouldn't worry about the brake light feed.... it is simply the NEAREST positive feed... if the light doesn't work it's simply suggesting there may be a problem with that circuit. Remember though, ANY circuit / feed can have issues...
But, if it makes you happier, simply connect the electronic ignition to any ignition switched live of your choice.
The DSS ignition, to my mind, was cheaply made. The PCB was almost wafer thin... none of it gave confidence. This, coupled with a rough running bike after a 50 mile run (missing at power) prompted me to take it off. This assertion might be terribly unfair, but the bike had a new loom, points, overhauled carbs... everything... and before (and after) once again, runs 'just great'.
Anyways, coz I just like to tinker, I've recently installed an optical ignition, British made, called 'Newtronic'. Same sorta price... £117'ish if I remember. It does away with the points, though retains the advance / retard unit. The switching is done via a plate with a cut-out interrupting a beam.
A bit more of a pain to install.... and you'd need to find space for a smallish box. The kit is very complete, and appears to be good quality. One big drawback though is that it too requires a power feed, but not 'continuous' as, like the coils, can be damaged if left powered with the engine off. In other words, you're told to use the coils supply... ie (the black / white) from the kill switch. (this 'warning' is given in accompanying literature supplied with the instructions)
The kill switch was designed to carry (guess) a couple of amps for the coils. It is up to you whether you now want it to carry (guess) another couple of amps... but in keeping with what I've read in other forums, I installed a relay, switched by the kill switch, but providing power from a 'solid' live.
The bike, btw, runs fine.... but better than the OEM points?.... I can't tell. Big drawback of the new system is that roadside repairs with a piece of fag paper are no longer possible... but perhaps this is the dinosaur in me coming out.
One final consideration... electronic systems require a minimum voltage to work. As I see it, an 'original' bike with a duff battery at say, 8v might have a hope of being bump started: an 'electronic' bike won't... you'll be stuck. Happy to hear other thoughts on this one, but I'd guess the electronic system is less tolerant of 'worn' bikes.
All in all, I'm not convinced; we're not tearing abouts race tracks; and the points / Honda system works fine - especially given the few miles I do pa. I think I'll leave the '400 original... as said, I'm just a sucker for tinkering.
Cheers,
Simon
http://www.newtronic.co.uk/new/support/newtro/AK-HO4FittingInstructions.pdf
19
« on: March 14, 2017, 12:09:50 PM »
I shouldn't think they draw much more than 1amp
Even the 550 can cope with that
my phone charger is 2.1A I imagine that sat nav with big screen be about same.
20
« on: March 14, 2017, 12:04:10 AM »
Apologies for hijack,
I wonder how much does a phone charger and satnav drew, I was under impression that there is very little spear juice on CB550.
21
« on: December 30, 2016, 10:01:35 PM »
I'm hoping to get my Honda on the road soon... and would love to meet up with some of you nice people. I'm self employed and often have to work weekends, can not commit to the date, as it is long way away but def very interested.
Thanks!
22
« on: November 11, 2016, 06:40:58 PM »
Thanks for posting them Tomb, I wonder if you can change oil filter with pipes on?
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
23
« on: November 06, 2016, 10:55:11 PM »
Bryanj Its been a year and not much progress, Just yesterday I got back to it and as you mentioned oil gallery plug did fire out! Then I remembered your post, thanks for that, found the plug and put the cover on... Got the new filter oil bolt. Set gaps on tappets and now dear I say it engine is done... (1) If you are turning it by the nut on the generator it means the cover is off and the oil gallery blanking plug will fire out letting oil go all over the floor
(2) the bits inside the filter bolt are exremely impoetant as without them oil bypasses the filter--easiest way is buy a new bolt they come complete
(3) to see if oil is getting to top end remove the polished end caps and the steel brackets they bolt too and oil should pour out of the bolt hole which is why there is a soft alloy washer between the cam cover and steel bracket
It takes a while for the system to fill and put oil to the top end, maybe 5-10 minutes of kicking
As to bang noise only thing I can think of is kickstart gear
24
« on: November 04, 2016, 06:43:33 PM »
Phil any chance you can post a few pictures, also how long have you had them? I have them on my 550, quality is great, cant fault em.
25
« on: February 26, 2016, 11:07:35 PM »
Good luck!
My bike worked on pods but I def need like to run original airbox.
26
« on: February 24, 2016, 11:03:45 PM »
Nice! Looks like you ditched air box, you are not looking for a new home for it by any chance  
27
« on: February 09, 2016, 12:04:28 PM »
Congratulations!
No doubt Enzo is in good hands!
Give him few years and he will need bike too!
My son is turning 7 this week, his favorite pastime is drilling holes in bris blocks in our garage!
28
« on: January 30, 2016, 10:47:51 PM »
Looking good!!
29
« on: January 27, 2016, 09:18:14 PM »
Hi Theof,
I'm still fixing my bike, had it running for few months two years ago and now just about to put it back on the road.
Fingers crossed another month or two and be riding it again.
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