Honda-SOHC

After getting the bike back together and running I found that I had a permanent neutral light, after my first shakedown ride I then had no neutral light, I found that if I disconnected the wire to the neutral switch and tested that, the switch was working ok. When I reconnected the wire to the switch, I had constant power to the bulb… but I had blown the bulb, easy changed and now had a permanent neutral light again.

One of the changes I made when reassembling the bike was to replace the old regulator / rectifier with a new combined unit from Common Motor.

After a bit of head scratching and wire tracing, I finally realised that I had reconnected the two 4 way connector blocks, one to the new regulator/ rectifier and the other to the stator the wrong way round!

In my defence, I am a tad colour blind and until I really peeled back the protective sheathing from the blocks I couldn’t really tell.

I now have a functioning neutral light… now I haven’t gone into it in any detail and know next to nothing but I’m surprised the bike ran like that.

Would anyone know off the top of their head any expected problems in the running of the bike with these two connectors swapped as they were?

After initially test riding the bike like that I found after  3-4 miles I started losing power, could that be a cause? I haven’t reassembled everything to test ride again yet to see if it’s better?

I have had trouble with the left side not firing a couple of times now, I have carried out some tests that I have found and hoped I could get any informed opinions before I start spending more money on stuff I don’t need.

I have carried out tests on my ignition components as per the Common Motor videos with a test light and I have tested resistance at my coils with my multimeter.

The right side that is sparking had 6.9 ohms across the two wires from the coil and 14k ohms from the plug cap back to the coil.

The left side has 4.3 ohms at the two wires and 14k ohms from the plug cap back to the coil.

Could the left coil be bad? From what I’ve read online, if it has between 3-5ohms it should be ok, any opinions?

There is a disparity between the two, almost a 3 ohm difference but could that be the cause of no spark?

The bike was running on both cylinders until I decided to take the tank off and investigate the hanging idle and erratic tick over??

I’ve had this bike down to a bare frame and bagged and tagged everything meticulously but for the life of me, I can’t find this. Everything else is present and accounted for and I’ve seen it several times, I know it was here but it has disappeared, I’ve spent days going through EVERYTHING but it’s vanished!

If anyone has one they could sell or any suggestions where I might find one it would be hugely appreciated.

Cheers

Greg

I am getting close to starting up my CB360 after stripping and reassembling, the top end has been off and rebuilt.

I know this is a basic question but it’s the first engine work I have undertaken.

I know that I need to make sure that I have oil getting to the top end but how long should this take roughly?

I don’t want to panic and convince myself there are problems too quickly but also don’t want to have it running for too long and do some damage.

I have been looking for some rear shocks for my CB360, they seem to be offered in various lengths, 317mm - 335mm. Would it make much of a difference either way? The 317mm would be a good match for what’s come off the bike but I’ve been offered 335mm gratis from a friend.

I recently took the tank off to carry out some maintenance work and the fuel lines from the petcock were very short. The tank has two lines out, to the two fuel inlets on the carbs, one longer and one shorter, there’s not really much there to lift the tank easily remove the lines, I’m ready to put the tank back on and slightly longer fuel lines would make it much easier.

Is there a particular length these should be, would making them a bit longer be detrimental to the performance, I seem to recall reading somewhere that some fuel lines need to be an exact length?

I’ve tried searching but had no joy in finding any info, even being able to move the tank without having to remove it could be handy.


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I’m hoping some of you clever kids might be able to help a novice spannerer out?

I bought this bike a couple of months ago, with a view to get more hands on and really get to grips with my own maintenance and repairs, I’ve ridden on and off for most of the last 36 years since my first Honda XL125 as a teenager, what I never did was any meaningful maintenance or repairs, usually paying someone else to do it for me. I am happy with oil changes, brakes, cables etc, but engine work, carbs and the like are a mystery to me.

The bike hadn’t been a regular rider for a number of years since a restoration but had a wee run out every year to keep the juices flowing. So it was always going to need some TLC, only I was hoping to do that through the winter in my (hopefully) new workshop / shed I’m panning to build. The bike had a pronounced flat spot from take off and low revs, from throttle off to throttle on. I’m pretty convinced that it has got worse  but that could just be my imagination?

I have only managed to put a couple of hundred miles on the clock so far and today I decided to go for a bit of a blast, about 50 miles in total, with a good proportion of dual carriageway to blow away any cobwebs.

All was going well, when about 3 miles from home and now on smaller country roads, I noticed a noise. It was a bit faint to start with, almost like a wheel rubbing or something catching but only when the bike was moving and not stationary, however I convinced myself that it was more likely coming from inside the engine rather than from something outside. I nursed the bike back home, turned the engine off immediately and had a little panic to myself! I checked both wheels and they seem to be turning freely with no noise when raised off the ground with no play.

I have read plenty on here about how everything needs to be set up right or these bikes can sound very ropey. So I have adjusted the cam chain tensioner (not sure if that did anything as there was no discernible happening to indicate any change) and I also set the valve clearances, some of which were very tight. Tomorrow I will checks the points and static timing. I have no doubt the carbs will need attention too.

So, to the question in the title… after another question. Would it be possible that a combination of these things being incorrect could produce such a noise?

These are the plugs that I removed tonight, 1-4 from left to right. Any advice as to what they are telling me? Too rich? Big Trouble? Carb issues? Run away?

Worth noting that they aren’t all the same plug either, I presume a new matching set of the correct type would be in order.

I have a feeling that I will need to tackle the carbs, which is something that strikes the fear into me, I will need to purchase the appropriate necessities for that, as it is something WAY beyond my comfort zone! Would you recommend vacuum gauges or something like the Morgan carbtune pro?

Apologies for the waffle and the Tommy Tippee beginner questions but I guess I have to start somewhere and you kind souls seem just the type to help me on my way. Thanks in advance




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Does anyone know of any current suppliers of a decent repro seat for a 750K0?

There are a couple that I have found, both with plastic bases, a metal would be preferred but would also be happy with a proven quality plastic.

The ones I’ve found so far are CMS and MonkyDax, does anyone have any experience of either?

Cheers

Greg