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Messages - Dave_Canada
1
« on: August 21, 2016, 01:29:32 AM »
I rarely run it into reserve, I look for a gas station for around 100 miles. If I do a lot of full throttle work it may run out by then. 466 kit, street cam.
2
« on: June 21, 2016, 04:52:03 PM »
Haven't had much luck with bronze bushings. Confirm the collar is round, because of the poor lubing system they tend to wear to an ovalish shape. A new bushing won't fix this, and the collars are unobtanium. Getting the composite sleeves out is usually a total bugger of a job, good luck! Slitting the inside with a hacksaw blade is normal. The new bushing should be somewhat snug on the collar. It should be a tight press fit into the swingarm. It will be compressed a bit when pressed in and the collar fit get a bit tighter.
There is a fellow in the USA that services swingarms, either he makes new collars or grinds them round when worn out-of-round. Then he makes bronze bushings to fit the collar. Maybe not economical to ship a swingarm to/from the USA?
3
« on: June 21, 2016, 04:08:51 PM »
What is panching?
I used scotchbrite pad.
4
« on: June 21, 2016, 04:07:42 PM »
Since the two chain tensioner rod springs have lost a lot of "spring" in 30+ years (unavoidable) the factory tensioning procedure won't work now. You need to remove the cap bolt and push on the top of the adjuster actuating rod with a nail or thin screwdriver, listen to the engine running and press down hard enough to just quiet the chain rattle, then tighten the lock bolt. Be very careful around the hot headers, of course! Too much force and it will be quieter but the blades will wear rapidly.
Be extremely gentle with the rod lock bolt: it's a 6mm thread into the engine, not the visible beefy 8mm thread which is only for its locking nut. Breaking these bolts by overtorquing is not unusual and a major PITA to fix.
Some rattling is OK but annoying, chain tension has to be quite loose for it to hit the case.
The adjuster springs 14541-333-020 and 14543-333-020 are NLA, and would require a case split to replace anyway.
5
« on: June 21, 2016, 03:47:43 PM »
You want to keep the same average position of the slides, I recommend leaving one (whichever is hardest to get at) untouched. If you change them all, the choke throttle advance will be messed up. Go way overboard changing them all and the idle screw travel may run out as well.
6
« on: March 30, 2016, 03:21:41 AM »
Specifies CB400 "superfour" - the later (90's) bike. It doesn't look like the 70's lever but I'm not at home to refresh my memory of the real thing.
7
« on: March 30, 2016, 03:16:52 AM »
Non-Japan market CB400F bores are 51mm, so 0.5 overbore would be 51.5mm.
The Yoshimura kits were 458cc or 466cc - 54 and 54.5mm I think. The 466 was sort-of intended as an overbore for the 458 kit, but most hotrodders just installed the 466 kit.
It's no surprise that 54/54.5mm pistons don't slide into 51.5mm bores.
A decent engine shop will be able to measure the pistons you have and rebore the barrels to fit. These become rather this but have been proven durable. The forcing cone on the bore bottoms get mostly removed but inserting rings is pretty easy without compressors.
Proper 400F overbore pistons use the same gudgeon pins. You will need a head gasket to suit the larger bore, a kit should include this. MC-Again in Japan used to sell correct (Yoshimura branded, although I doubt the providence) gaskets, haven't bought one in a decade or so though.
8
« on: March 01, 2016, 12:03:00 AM »
The parts fiche shows all the tools. CMSNL.com parts search will show you the fiche. It's in "FRAME GROUP 1G,1H,2G,2H".
9
« on: February 29, 2016, 11:59:18 PM »
10
« on: January 09, 2016, 06:12:35 PM »
The electric starter is not such a killer load that smaller bike batteries won't turn it over. You want at least 75 CCA (actual starting current is 50-75A, I believe) but bike batteries don't always give CCA specs. Any 12V battery allowed for a bike with electric start should be OK for a 400F, this is not a hard engine to turn over. Batteries for bikes with kick only (most dirt bikes) ... probably not.
The battery Amp-Hour rating tells you how long you can crank the engine. If you plan on removing the kickstarter and don't plan to bump start it, then it's going to need to crank a long time for cold starts. If you can do the cold starts with kicking, using the electric start for stalls or after a gas/tea/lunch/antiqueing stop then a 1/2 second or so crank should always start it - and a small battery will be fine. The stock 12AH battery should be able to crank it for around 12 minutes from fully charged to dead. (Don't try that; the starter motor is designed for quite low duty cycle and will have melted by around 5 minutes) Even properly maintained batteries show a capacity dropoff with age: a smaller battery will need to be replaced sooner than a larger one because there's less capacity when new.
Next is your riding. City riding will rarely if ever leave a full charge on a 400F battery, the alternator only charges at fairly high RPM and the battery is discharging whenever RPM is below that. With a normal load (no high wattage lighting or power sucking EI unit) if you usually go on longer rides without stops ... AND keep the revs up rather than putting along in top gear ... the battery should usually be close to full charge when you get home. A bigger battery will have more reserve for the next start even in city riding. The more you discharge the battery with the starter, the longer you must ride at higher RPM to recharge.
Battery type makes some difference. Sealed and AGM batteries have similar chemistry and charge requirements to the OEM wet cells, and the charging system is generally compatible. Sealed batteries rarely have the amperage capability to handle a starter motor, most are designed for relatively slow discharge use like emergency lights or UPS units. If a battery has tiny spade lug connections, assume the internal wiring is similarly sized and not made for starter motor amperage. Many AGM batteries are made for starting use.
Lipo and other "modern" chemistry batteries are simply not compatible with our old stock charging systems: sellers that say they are are basically lying to you. Lithium batteries are also dangerous - lead acid batteries fail by leaking explosive gas and acid (not good) but lithium batteries can light up like a road flare (extremely awfully bad). Even electronic regulators designed for lead-acid batteries are consequently incompatible with other batteries. I haven't seen a regulator designed for lithium batteries. Also, Lipo batteries (as well as NiCad and some others) should never be fully discharged (lead acid batteries shouldn't either but the resulting damage isn't crippling). Devices that use them should have circuitry that disconnects the battery before over discharging. It would be easy to accidentally drain a 400F battery, they even feature "parking lights" that will readily completely discharge it.
11
« on: January 02, 2016, 08:53:44 PM »
Vacuum for fuel shutoff.
12
« on: November 30, 2015, 02:20:47 AM »
Hi, just saw this:
The original bolt threads into the engine case with 6mm threads and has the locking nut on an 8mm thread, the nut also holds down the washer that compresses the O-ring.
You can see that on the "new" original pattern bolt.
But that bolt is easily damaged off - you see the big nut and think it can take 8mm torque. A common fix was to drill out the remaining bolt if it snapped off but that's really hard to do on the frame with a hand drill without ruiingn the 6mm threads. SO the hole gets drilled and tapped for an 8mm bolt or some size that will fit. I don't know if your Allen bolt is 8mm or an inch size.
Anyway, this works fine and there's no good way to go back to the OEM bolt. The hole doesn't seep oil without the O-ring.
I suppose you could put a 6mm keensert in the bottom and an 8mm keensert above it but that would be quite a trick. Plus adding an O-ring recess...
13
« on: November 25, 2015, 12:11:14 PM »
The GPS distance traveled function has some built-in inaccuracy. Position is calculated continuously but that takes a while. On a curve, the sequential calculations are joined with straight lines to measure distance. For infinitely small line segments, the calculated distance is equal to the true distance. Your GPS doesn't create infinitely small segments. Over a 3000km trip this will underestimate the total distance by a bit unless you have a 1500km straight road. Also, most GPS units ignore altitude. Climb a 30 degree hill between points 10 km apart on the map, and GPS will say you went 10km but an accurate odometer will read 11.5km.
Your car's odometer based on wheel rotations (and any fuel calculations based on it) will never be exact - tire wear & pressure and vehicle load changes affect the tire diameter and odometer result. Your GPS will always under-report distance traveled unless you travel on dead straight and dead level roads, inflating fuel mileage calculation.
A 6% error is not bad. Car speedos are generally optimistic by a few percent.
14
« on: November 22, 2015, 03:18:42 AM »
Just mess with the brightness and contrast in a photo editor (gimp is free). markings can stand out.
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15
« on: November 21, 2015, 04:15:14 PM »
A reputable motorcycle engine machine shop can do this easily. Specify you want minimum material removed to achieve flatness. The cylinder top face should be done as well. I assume you are trying to eliminate the oil seep from the orifice valves? Skimming does help.
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