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CB500/550 / Re: Im a diesel idiot !!!!
« Last post by taysidedragon on Today at 08:17:14 PM »
Personally I would consider draining out the tank and start with new petrol - diesel is not good for the piston rings.


Is that true Ted, or just a feeling?
One litre in a full tank of about 18litres can't make too much difference. Not recommended,  but not disastrous.
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CB500/550 / Re: Im a diesel idiot !!!!
« Last post by marroinia on Today at 07:39:27 PM »
Haha! It happened to me once when working in an australian farm. I filled up a quad bike to the pump dedicated to diesel tractors, whistling to that beautiful morning coming up. It smoked a LOT and finally stall 2 minutes later, and I learnt a LOT of new cursing and swearing in english from the local mecanic!

He drained the whole thing and cleaned everything with gasoline, the bike started as new and I went back to work fairly ashamed  ;D
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CB500/550 / Re: Im a diesel idiot !!!!
« Last post by McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on Today at 06:40:21 PM »
Personally I would consider draining out the tank and start with new petrol - diesel is not good for the piston rings.

Not sure if the diesel will seperate out when standing or if the two hydrocarbons are compleltly miscible.
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CB500/550 / Re: Im a diesel idiot !!!!
« Last post by Athame57 on Today at 06:19:04 PM »
Did it smoke a lot?  ;D  I nearly did that once but a sharp eyed attendant rescued me!
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CB500/550 / Im a diesel idiot !!!!
« Last post by paulbaker1954 on Today at 06:13:53 PM »
Went to fill up with 99 juice at end of a run today, tank just on reserve and stupidly got the pumps muddled up and put about a litre of high spec diesel in.

Quickly realise my error and stopped and filled up with 99 E5

Stemmed to run fine on the 10 miles home

Guess it just got well diluted

Lesson learned 😂😂😂
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Good point I'm going to get the fixed bearing fully home as it was before. I'm thinking the right side will move back out a little but not as far out as it was.

I understand the fixed bearing principle - the lock ring seems to have two functions. Securing the fixed bearing and holding the drive hub fully home.

Update:- I removed the lock ring (again) and using a drift with a good sized lump hammer the left side bearing is fully home. The hammer strike changed tone as it butted up to the recess. Drive hub and lock ring fitted back and it's fully tightened with no gap visible between the ring & hub face. Visually the right side bearing has moved out slightly but nothing like it was.

I now have a slightly different issue that existed before I stripped down the bike - some light binding. The rear brake linings have a very slight bind.  I had to file the brake shoe ends where they pivot as there was no room for the top washer only the split pin. The brake shoes also appear to be a tad wider than what feels right when you fit the brake hub it's a difficult wiggle.
 
There is no free play in the brake shoe system. A very slight amount of lever movement in either direction applys the brakes. It's diffucult to pin down but it feels as if the binding is more like the side of the brake linings touching the inside of the hub.


From previous posts it appears that the original brake linings are no longer available so it's a bit of a raffle to get the correct ones. My next move is to see if a chamfer on the inside edge of the curved shoe might improve things. I think but am not sure that the hub has had a new steel lining fitted in the past.

I'm going to remove the brake shoes and re-fit the hub to be 100% sure it's just the linings causing the bind.
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Unsure if I've understood correctly the current adjustment just made Ted.

The left bearing, with retaining ring has only one true position which is "fully" located in it's accompanying architecture.

This is the wheel datum (same on front too) for the rim alignment in the chassis, with all other spacing etc slaved off this installation.  Bearing race fully home and retaining ring fully tightened is the only method, anything else with compromise doesn't take precedent over this procedure.  The other parts and alignment should be looked through for fault if it exists then.

If the primary, LEFT bearing isn't secure in it's location, then the wheel can move across the axle during use  :o to the detriment of competent running and risk of jamming the wheel in cases of significant movement.
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Could be Dom, ill remove the brake hub and give it another thwack with the drift.

Update: The right hand bearing was not flush with the hub face - it did not want to knock in any further so I undid the lock ring on the left side and it's now flush with the face.

Now the lock ring is not fully against the drive hub so I guess I might need to tap the left side bearing a tad more from the left side.
Not sure if there should be a gap between the lock ring and the drive hub. Mine is probably about the thickness of a Junior hack saw blade between the lock ring and drive hub face .
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Anorak's Corner / Re: Metal Covered Plug Caps
« Last post by AshimotoK0 on Today at 08:47:49 AM »
Pretty crap that Honda didn't address the issue with the suppliers Nippon Denso. The metal cover EMC shielding (fitted as way back 1966 to UK CB450K0 Bombers)  was decades ahead of it's time and such a shame that the design wasn't re-engineered to cure the arcing. As I said, I can't see any reason why it can't be re-engineered to work perfectly in the wet. I guess modern silicone mouldings were not around then within the automotive industry.

Those caps were also fitted to Z1's ... wonder if it was the same on that model in the wet. Genuine Z1 metal caps are ££££ I gather. I got all of my Honda ones  cheap because DS had them in his USA warehouse (relatively useless to U.S. customers) but not listed on his UK site.

Watch this space to see if I can solve it.
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CB500/550 / Re: top end gasket set recomendations
« Last post by neat street on Today at 08:30:06 AM »
It depends which gasket set you use as to the size O rings you will need. All the kits have different depth head gaskets.

Thank you nurse Julie
any adea on the difference I should be looking for from gasket thicknes to `O ring`? or how would you work out what size would be best to use?
thank you again
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